testtones

like I said IN A POWER LIMITED CLASS... where clamping is used.... The amps output at 1 ohm means nothing....what matters is making the 2000 or 4000 watts after rise. what the rise is really doesn't matter either as far as power is concerned, just that you make the 2000 or 4000 watts. Tony, do you have a comparison to a meter like the Extech I had asked about? could make a video of clamping an amp with an extech wattage clamp and the amp dyno at the same time for comparison. I have no idea the results, that's why I would like to see something like that.

a competitor in a power limited class doesn't care what power the amp makes @ 2 or 4 or 8 ohms. all that matters is how much power they make in the car at x impedance ( after rise). unfortunately the amp dyno is not capable of that, so clamping will remain the standard in that scenario. How does the dyno compare to a meter like the extech wattage meter? ( I have no idea, that's why I ask) That seems to be what is used by a lot of competitors as well the meter most db drag judges seem to use

off topic, but if you still have the soundigital nano amps, you should test one of them

If you cant have them charged up to verify they are ok, then walk.

wheel class in Fonthill is a dealer

I know this is an old thread but just wondering if there was anymore insight on these alt's. I see they only have a 6 month warrenty. Will they hold up as good as a dc power, ohio or iragi level alt. ?

I run cylinders on the front of my t-bird and I have no problem with the ride. with a heavy car the ride is decent. The main disadvantages to cylinders is the shorter life than a bag and the higher pressure needed to lift.

I panel bonded mine about 8 years ago and they still look like they did the day it was done..... the car does'nt get alot of miles put on though and it is stored in a heated garage for the winter....

that is SICK. and I thought my car looked like it was gonna die bass racing the 149.9 class, lol. What frequency is that song?.

just contact murilo [email protected]

Why not just replace the bottom plate with plexi or lexan?

according to WinISD 8 ft^3 with a port 4" x 25" x 21.5" deep the tuning will be 33.57 Hz

I know its an old post..... but look at the canadian car audio forum..... that is about the best spot... although shows closer than hamilton or mississauga are rare. If you are just looking for term lab time... I have access to one in st thomas.

if you like flo rida his new album R.O.O.T.S. has alot of songs that bang.

if the amp draws 400 watts, that is only about 3.3333 amps at 120 volts. more home circuts are designed to handle 15 amps of current ( if it is wired with 14 ga wire as most are) The easiest / proper way ( other than updating the wiring) to fix the non grounded outlet problem is to install a GFCI outlet in place of the other outlet. keep in mind if the wiring is aluminum you may need a different type of outlet and be very carefull to not nick the wiring when replacing it. edit: on second thought if you do not have much electrical experience you should leave the work to an electrician. I would hate to see you get fried or start a fire. I am not an electrician, I just have a fair bit of electrical experience. I am not from the U.S. so I have no idea about the electrical codes in your area either.

just taking the average of those dimensions, you have about 20^ft3.... that is before panel thickness braces sub and port displacement. Were those dimensions with the interior panels / seats in or out? if you build it inside the car to follow the contours, you will likely be able to get a bit more room. Here is an unfinished picture of my enclosure to give you an idea of what I'm talking about. ( there were more baffles and reinforcement and fiberglass after the picture)

http://www.teamsd.net/ or contact murilo at [email protected] He will help you out, or direct you to a dealer. The SD5000.1 is a bit higher priced then you were looking for, but it will give you its 5000 watts at 12.6 volts unlike alot of other brands that are rated for 14.4 volts.

when you say you only have 8^ft3 I am guessing thats is staying with a square box? I would think there should be alot more room than that if you were to build inside the car. In my T-bird I was able to come up with about 20^ft3 ( before port and driver displacement). Thats is with it being 3" thick. I measured a similar car up a couple years ago for someone and I remember there being alot more space then that. (the build never happened, so I dont remember the exact size.) I know my car was wider but I think the cav. was deeper. As far as flex and ripping the car apart goes. Mine dosent move much.... I have a pretty small area of the roof left though. I also used 4 layers of second skin on the roof and filled all the braces with spray foam. That actually seemed to help alot. Incase you were curious for comparison sake... it hit a 151 on music last year 40 hz range (T/L in Db Drags legal location on windshield.) .... it is a bit louder this year, just not sure by how much yet. The biggest down side I have found is from the addition of the weight to the car. luckily mine isnt my daily driver though.

finding out what your voltage drop is would be your best place to start. It would tell you how much of an improvement is needed. After that then you can decide if you need a second battery or bigger front battery ect......

what if you were to try and run a 45 or radius from the bottom of your port up to the hatch? I'm not sure but it may lower your tuning a bit though

damn that saturn is flexin. good stuff.

I just use a paper towl for the wash and do a quick rub after with a soft cloth and it works great, I have never had them go cloudy on me. Are the wheels chrome or polished aluminum?

I have been using the simple green window cleaner on mine for years. I have had no problems with it. That stuff also works great on the chrome wheels

what about a 2000 durango with the 4.7. There is going to be a MLA module on it as well. Would a smaller pulley still gain more output over the MLA?

SounDigital SD8000 will do 6500 RMS at 2 ohms 12.4 volts and if you should ever decide to change to D4 coils you will get 8000 RMS @ 1 ohm 12.4 volts. My solo x 18's are loving it .