AMI CUSTOMS

Yeah that was a first for me, he was speechless lol.

I never was. LOL Man if I had a nickle everytime that was asked, that is a completely different person lol. Well let me rephrase I am still on CACO, same screen name, but you are thinking of someone else, I have not been a vendor on any car audio site.

Enjoy, had fun with this one, lol.

Well what is the current demand? Why run more then a wire rated at 300 amps if it isn't needed is the point.

Yeah you want just that one wire 4 ga coming off the junction box to go to the battery the other end goes to the starter.

Now you will get a different response from others, but this is what I would do. Unhook the small alt wire that goes to the junction box and put the nut back on and close the box. Then run a 1/0 wire from alt to battery positive. Fuse if you like, but not necessary, I fused mine cuz I had a few extras with holders laying around, I used a 300 amp ANL. Then remove the negative lead completely from the vehicle, the small gauge wire coming from it, cut at the battery and put a terminal on the end and reinstall on the negative post. The other end of the heavy gauge negative that goes to the block, remove that bolt and install a piece of 1/0 wire from that spot on the block to the negative on the battery. Then run another 1/0 from the negative post to a spot on the frame. You can actually go to the mount that holds the brake like on the driver side, remove that bolt and install there. I did this exactly on my 01 gmc, and went from charging 14.2 hot to 14.7 and all I changed was the wire. Enjoy!!!

I have two of them in my truck and I have had both of them fail on me, I think it is from surging current into them, cuz both times it happened is when my truck was on and I toggled my sub amps one with a toggle switch on the remote and caused them to both go out. I just had to disconnect the leads and reconnect and both worked no problem.

That is what I was looking for, my thoughts exactly. Thanks Decaf and you look good in gold btw!!!

Specifically, what I am talking about is fusing between the amp, +4k size amp that warrants the need for a battery bank, and the battery bank. Thanks for all the discussion thus far, more is welcome!!!! So fuse or not between batt bank and amp.

Let's say 12 inches but it would be 4 1/0 powers and grounds, dual inputs with dual inputs.

Would you still use fuses if your batt bank to amp is just a few inches? Discuss

What do you do? Do you run an external fuse for big +4k size amps, or just wire direct to a batt bank? Looking for opinions from people with experience with running fuses and not running fuses. Thanks!!!

I would do dual 1 and wire at .5 with that electrical if the woofer you are gonna run will handle 4k.

They are more then likely fine, caps don't normally go bad unless you have put to high of a voltage to them. The way a cap is made allows them to work pretty much forever.

The bigger issue is that they are on the box period. Just inches away from the edge of the baffle with two subs right there. Good way to damage the boards of the amps.

Yes

6 D1600 with that much alt will be fine, if you are wanting to demo with the vehicle off, I would recommend double that 12 of them.

There is, its called a clamp meter and digital multimeter. Once you clamp the amp you will know the power the amp is making. There is now way to really tell other then that due to a speaker being a variable impedance, and with every frequency the speaker plays will result in a different amount of power being giving to the speaker. A Another words if you are 100% sure the amp is making 80watts rms at 60hz, it does not mean it is making 80wrms at 100hz, or 50hz. true, just like there is an oscope What I mean is a device with lcd display that does all of the calculations for you. So all you need to do is plug in and play. calculations? Its AC Amperage X AC Voltage = POWER. You too bro! That is actually wrong, I used to think the same until someone(Tony) shed a lil light on it. I felt like an idiot after he explained cuz I knew that, just ignored it lol. Anyway AAC X VAC = VA(volt-ampes) or apparent power AAC X VAC X pf = real power(Watts) pf is always less then 1, that is the cosine of the phase angle of the voltage to current sine wave. You take the cos of that phase angle and you have pf(power factor). Clear as mud? LOL

So you are saying that the led for clipping is coming on because it is DC voltage and that is what is causing the LED to be triggered same time as distortion. Makes sense.

Or contact toolmaker to make them to fit perfectly like he does all the time.

I have a brand new triple bracket with all hardware except belt and harnesses I would sell, not dc power.

I got a used one that is two years old I would like to get rid of, voltage resting in high 12s.

I know a guy locally that has two for sale, can't remember how much, but what you looking to spend?

Toolmaker on CACO

Did the SMD have a baby?