Derrick824

I have an '06 Yukon and my battery is located in that spot behind the driver's side headlight. You need to get inside the truck and find a spot under the dash where you can route the power wire through. The good thing about these trucks is that the interior moulding pops right off & on and its really easy to run the wire through the inside of these trucks. I don't know of any spots off hand on the passenger side firewall that will allow you to run your wire through though. Everything in mine is on the driver's side.

According to RF, the average actual power output of a T2000 is 2800w and the T4000 is 4500w @ 1ohm. So by using 2 smaller amps you'll get 5600w compared to 4500w @ 1ohm. I know you said that the T4000 will be running at 0.7ohms compared to the pair of T2000s at 1.4ohms so in this case the single T4000 should provide more power. Is it possible to strap the pair of T2000s and run them at 1.4ohms so that they'll actually see 0.7ohms each?

Why would you need to tape the wire onto the ring terminal? Why wouldn't you crimp it? If the ring terminal is left bare then the best thing would be to use heat shrink but electrical tape will work to cover the exposed part.

Using a ring terminal will work fine. If this is for a Tahoe (I'm guessing because of your name) then I recommend switching to a dual post battery. Use the side posts for your stock wiring and the top post to add on for you system.

IMO RF T115D2 powered by a RF T5001bd. The T1 15s run $250 shipped on Ebay and HDA has the T5001bd for $243 shipped.

If you want budget bump then watch the Lightning Audio stuff on Ebay. I was able to pick up a pair of brand new LA Bolt 15s for $50 shipped and a new Bolt 300.2 amp for $35 shipped. After installing it in a cheap box, I sold it to a guy for $250.

4 RF HX2 12s in 8ft w/ 4 rear facing 4" aeros tuned to 32hz for daily & 40hz for burps in the back of my '06 Yukon.

Definately get the T3002. I haven't seen a birthsheet yet that shows less than 800+ watts @ 1ohm.

Daily = 32hz SPL = 40hz I use aero ports to make the switch easy. All I have to do is remove the center section and run the ports flare to flare for competitions then reinstall the center section later to lengthen the port and lower the tuning.

It is REALLY flexible. These would tighten more if I used lube.

Yes I paid for it but it still feels like a gift everytime I open boxes like this. It's replacing the generic 0awg in my Yukon.

50ft of RF Super-Flex Competition 2/0awg power wire. 5929 strand count. The shipping weight was 32lbs.

You should consider stepping down to a BL sub to save some money and make it easier/more affordable for you to get the proper amplifier to power that sub. I recommend a BL 15" sub and RF T10001bd combo.

I'm looking at buying a new computer and I'm hung up on which processor to get. Its either the Pentium® D Processor 915 with Dual Core Technology (2.8GHz, 800FSB) or the Intel® Core™2 Duo Processor E6300 (1.86GHz, 1066 FSB) which is $150 more. How much better is the second than the first and is it worth the $150 extra? Thanks.

I owned a Power 800a2 for many years. It was used to power a pair of 12" HX2s and it did so nicely. The birthsheet said 1096 watts.

Kicker against RF?!? They're both quality, reputable companies with solid products. Both have their strong and weak points. You would have to have a very specific & detailed comparison to even try to put one against the other. In the end I believe someones choice between the two will come down to brand loyalty rather than facts anyway.

I'm an RF fan so I recommend an RF T2 dual 2ohm 15" sub and a RF T10001BD amplifier.

No I haven't upgraded my charging system other than the "Big 3". I'm still using the stock 160amp alternator which does not keep up. I was expecting a 3db gain but I'm not disappointed considering the frequency drop.

My previous setup was a pair of RF Punch HX2 12s powered by a Hifonics Brutus BX2005D. These were in a 4.5ft box with a pair of 4" aeroports with both subs and ports facing the rear of my Yukon. This setup peaked @ 45hz (with my box tuned to 38hz) and did 145s on a TL. I recently added another pair of HX2s and another Brutus. The new setup has all four subs facing up and all four aeros facing the rear. My problem is that my peak frequency has dropped to 40hz (even though I raised my tuning from 38 to 40hz) and now I'm only doing 146s. I was seriously expecting better but figure the frequency drop is whats holding me back. Is there anything I can do about this?

Instead of doubling. Why not just get thicker wood? Or would you still double up to prevent flexing? 1" is the thickest you can get MDF and 2 layers of 3/4" is stronger than one layer of 1".

Get a DMM and set your gains properly.

You need to add a couple fuses between the two batteries. One at each end, right off of each battery in case something happens to the wire in between.

Its not dumb. The big 3 is a good idea even with a stock alternator.

Maybe the way its worded is confusing me but its sounds like he doesn't understand the difference between the engine block and the chassis. "the engine block or moreless chassis " I wanted to make sure he and anyone who reads understands that these are two different things. The rest was just me trying to reiterrate it because he didn't seem to believe me earlier.