audiofanaticz

not much more cone area. In the proper box, the 15 inch L7 has more chances to get louder then the two 12 inch CVX's with the same power. Also you got to make sure that his two cvx's have the right impedance voice coils to get the max power out of your amp. The L7 sub is square, providing more cone area then a regular round 15inch sub. Also all that power on 1 sub is going to have more excursion which will thereby move more air. Where as the 2 cvx 12s are round providing less cone area then even a square 12 inch sub. Unless they make round cvx's now? Id personally keep the l7 on 2000wrms!

Yea, Most companies, will give you a few different mounting cups for varietys of mounting, Tho I dont see buying 1 companies tweeter just for the mounting cups unless your for sure they will fit. Most tweeters all come in different sized diameters and depths, so brand A may not work in brand B's mounting hardware due to size issues, so you maybe wasting that 10 or 11 bucks when you could of put it towards a really nice set that comes with the different hardware. A good place that usally has lots of detailed images is www.sonicelectronix.com and you can click the images to make them larger Otherwise heres a few pics I took from my Digital Designs 6.2C components (you can also buy the tweeters seperatly if you dont need the whole component setup). So hopefully this gives you a better idea The top 4 tweeter cups by the old school RF sub are the power acoustiks I linked to above in a early post. Theres 1 ring that is chrome and that is a insigma tweeter, but same specs and same everythig. The bottom 6 tweeter cups are digital designs. two of the cups have a different top ring for flush mounting the tweeters into the door. The left tweeter cup and the ring next to it is for flush mounting tweeters, the farthest right 2 cups are for top mounting the tweeters. These have the angled back. A side view. Another side view tilted on the angle. and just another shot, the 2 little holes inside are what you use to screw them in (you could use 2 way sticky tape too, but it tends to let go from heat or too much bass at times). Make a little more sense?

That could kind of work, but I think you may run into a problem since the gauge pods are usally made for the driver side only, and not the passenger side. unless you want your tweeters on just one side. Just a thought But those tweeters picture are most likely screwed into the a piller. I dont see hot glue, or 2 way sticky tape holding to great if your car is loud, or in the heat. Some brands of tweeters offer many options for mounting, such as flush mount, top mount, etc. Sometimes the topmount cups have a angled side that allow you to mount the tweeter on a angle. Theres nothing special about the tweeters with how their mounted, just the cups that came with them. Heres a couple sets that I found that both offer the slanted mount. some power acoustik. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13130_...stik+NB.1.html# and some rockfords. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18209_...ate+P1T-S.html# If you look at the bigger images you will see what Im talking about

some of the speaker wires going from 1 sub to another or the amp maybe be longer then the others. Resistance in wire will cause speakers to be out of phase. so its kinda important to have the same length wire for all subs (even if you only need 1 foot of wire for the closest sub, and say 4 feet of wire for the farthest away sub, make all wires 4 feet). If thats not the problem, then its something with a bad coil, or like said before bad wiring.

x2. LOl

Glad to see I could help Will. Iirc I also left you feedback too, Glad to hear you got everything working straight again

LMFAO!! I was thinking the same exact thing... Tho meade seems to be doing it for $50, and not $80... Hmm. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/01nocomment8so.gif

Thats what real subs doo! :01nocomment8so: Good shit as always freeland. Is that still a pwk design, or one you tried on your own?

I had a mtec kit.... After the forth ballast blew, I said fuck their cheap crap.. Worst kit I ever had!

dd subs, and sundown amps. sounds like a good combo to meh!!

shes use to it.. she goes to almost every db drag show with me and cruises around a lot when im out bumming

thanks guys!

you got it on your music page bro? outta all honestly, my spl dynamics ext-3000d on one sub, and the sundown saz-3000 on the other sub was louder then this Digital Designs z2lv. Im fighting mad rise with 1 amp. I ordered coils to compensate for impedance rise, but in my setup i need 1 sub per amp, not both subs on 2 amps. the dd amp was wired at 1.5nom and with rise it seen 3 ohms (not much power) were as my 2 mis matched amps where wired at .75 ohm. I know it was louder with the 2 amps but how much is beyond me, I couldnt get a good burp because the cd player skipped, and I couldnt get a good bassrace because it skipped, and unpaused slow. But now I got a new headunit and a flash drive!

ugh box is tuned @ 29hz pretty flat, from 32 to 36 hz (burps the same number) and up to 42 hz I only lose .1 to .2 tenths on a burp. Theres still more in it. Just needing to work the bugs out. :hairtrick: This was from a show last weekend, with 2 different brand 3000wrms amps. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7z4SORWux4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gm4Mlkp2VcQ May need to wait for HD, looks pretty good without the high quality tho

welcome to the issues of being loud.... I know exactly what your going thru, been there countless times before. but you seem to have some good competitors/friends to help you out like mr. p so it make it a lot better!

but no back seats...

yup! or Rockford fosgate, same as the kicker hyperflex. otherwise knukoncepts flex, and the 3rd nicest wire is the Stinger HPM (the normal round stuff thats not $8.00 a foot. LOL) But Id personally would run Stinger hpm over the knukonceptz flex becuase its over $1.50 per foot cheaper then the knu for me.

ugh.. Really now? Or if the amp is clipped to hell! Id tend to believe a retail shop over the end user backyard installer like sable nave. Of coarse the end user/backyard installer is never going to admit to a maxxed out gain/bassboost. But rusty will be able to tell as soon as he recones it.

I like that. LOL

happy bday

Again, they use different magnets/motors The difference in motors is how strong the magnet slugs are, the specs such as coil gap, coil height, cooling, frequancy response.. If you want to do it, go nuts, you will probolly end up blowing up both speakers do to one moving out of phase with the other driver, meaning one sub will hit harder/louder then the other, which can cause the voice coil to not properly align with the magnet gap causing the voice coil to rub on the magnet gap creating a open coil which would be a fried sub, and maybe even a fried amp if the amps protection does not pick it up for some odd reason. PS: I dont think Nick owns Fi, Im pretty sure Scott is the owner, but Nick is one that does a lot of the Design and R&D for Fi/ Acsendent audio, as well as builds the speakers to what the customer wants and what not. While he is not the owner he is a pretty damn important man at the company. Tho he maybe part owner with scott. not sure totally. EDIT: They dont change their product lines for new looks, they change them for new improvements that they found over testing. More ways to make the speaker better, handle more power, dissapate the heat to keep it running cooler longer, having a more durable voice coil, etc... Chances are these are some of the reasons why they made the change(s). Playing 2 different speakers will make for example 1 sub have 2 inches excursion, vs the other sub having 1 inch of excursion. Like i said this is just an example.

yes it will cause damage, because like i said, the paramiters on each speaker are completly different, also the motor strength. You can gain match all you want, but it wont be perferct enough, even with a oscope. Your best off selling your current sub and buying 2 new ones, or buying a old one and reconing it. The newer btl motors are stronger and a over all more effiecent driver compaired to the older speaker.

because those people are idiots. different subs have different paramiters as well as motor strengths and wattages, and require different boxes per their specs... buy a used one, Im sure there some old btls selling on one site or another with the 3 slug magnets. All you need to do is find any size btl. the magnets are all the same from 12-18 inch, then just buy a recone kit or send it to fi for a recone to a matching sub to your current woofer. Or sell your current sub and buy 2 new ones. The newer btl motor is by far more powerful then the older motors. This will result in 1 sub hitting harder then the other, and possibly even cancelling out the other sub, or being out of phase.. It may work somewhat crappy if you build a dual chamber box (meaning each sub has its own air space and own port) but you wont have the potential to be the loudest with 2 matching subs

lol no problem