audiofanaticz

Someone seems to have an attitude problem... He cant blame kicker no more for his mistakes and has to start cussing on a message forum....

Im not gonna go back and read the other posts, but I do recall in almost everyone people telling you that there is something else wrong in your setup, like the sub you seemed to have failed with looking at it. Maybe its to much for you to comprehend at one time, but maybe kicker did fix your amp all those times, and that speaker kept faulting your amp out, everytime you turned the bass boost up (like is going on now). Which leads me to believe either A) kicker fixed your amps countless times (sometimes when something goes wrong on your amp it is unseen to the human eye), or there was never really a problem with the amp, so kicker never had to fix it because everytime they tested it, it worked fine. A blown sub, or even a slightly burned coil will cause an amp to cut out at higher volumes. I guess you just got to learn that just because one piece of gear in your system is failing it doesnt mean that is the problem. There could be something else causing that problem. 1600+ wrms is nothing for a kicker L7, yes its over the speakers rating, but it will take that kinda power as long as it is clean unclipped power. Ive ran 2 older kicker l7s (2005 or 2006) 12s in a prefab box on around 4000watts between the two. Lets say the subs glue joints failed before i had thermal problems with the voice coils.

nice tv! You should use your old tv for a pc monitor, unless of coarse your current monitor bigger.

Im guessing by one of his other posts, he thermaled the voice coil (prob from clipping). http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=32389&hl= Which then resulted in the below. From one of his other posts here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=33821&hl= So now Im going to take a guess and this is what caused your amp to fry and be sent back and forth to Kicker 8+ times, according to the thread(s) below of your ranting about how you f**king hate kicker.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=29611&hl= http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=30429&hl= http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=30494&hl= http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=31389&hl= It seems tho you already knew your sub was bad a few weeks ago and posted videos and saying your coil looks "burnt and bubble", you continuted to use your car stereo, and now it made things worse to the point that your amp is kicking protect everytime you turn it up and cause a dead short from a blown voice coil. If you havent yet figured out someone thing is wrong and wanna continue playing it, I feel another 5 million thread comming from you about saying how kicker is bad, and you had it fixed blah blah blah and everything is fine cuz you checked it all out.. What you need to do, is buy a new sub and hook it up, and pray that you didnt damage your amp!!

Its good for any 2 dual 4 ohm, or 2 dual 1 ohm speakers, or any speaker(s) that can be ran at 1 ohm. Brand name of speaker does not matter. You could run 4 single 4 ohm subs from the amp too. Just as long as the speaker(s) are at a 1 ohm load or higher when series or paralleled

You also got to remember that inverting your sub(s) will raise internal box volume and will change tuning slightly.

heh, if you did it when you where bored, just make one everytime you get bored. Lol Try to get like $200 a piece for them, and put it in print that extensive heat may discolor unit, and is designed for show use only. Lol

No, its not true. You should only have to change the polarity is if your running say 2 subs normal and 1 inverted, or 1 sub normal and 1 inverted. Then you would change the polarity on the inverted sub, or you will have phase issues with 1 sub canceling out the other.

Looks cool, and if it performs I bet you could slang them on ebay for a pretty penty. We all know how those asians like their hondas and carbon fiber hoods and spoilers..... Lol

I got a kenwood mask chilling in my bedroom. Face cuts on and off tho (needs a new ribbon, but its rigged to work decent now). But I think I actually may have a alpine pull out laying around somewhere, its a am/fm cassette w/ a 6 disc changer. not sure if it works. I dont think youll be able to sell it for much, maybe $50 tops, not really worth much with it being BNIB. Even tho its old, its not really a collectors piece or anything like that. Now maybe if you had an old nakamichi, denon, clarion headunit that where excellent SQ headunits from the early 90s, and are still better quality then many newer decks you could get a few hundred for it.

If its a compaq motherboard, you should be able to goto compaqs website and download the usb drivers. You will most likely have to take the side panel off the case and look for the model number of the motherboard. If that doesnt work and you still get the error after installing the driver, your problem maybe that it is too old and doesnt support usb 2.0. Some older motherboards only support usb 1.1, if thats the case it have to be a pretty old computer (chances are if its a pentium 4 it should be usb 2.0) If you still cant get nothing to work, you can goto wal-mart or a officemax, office depot etc and buy a PCI usb 2.0 card that would plug into the pci slots on your mother board, they usally cost about $20.

i just watched his amp math video, good stuff. decent find, ill watch more when i get home from the shop.

Thats a nice wrap job. what are you using to cover it with? is it like a fleece or something stretchy? edit: reading>meh I think that every box I ever covered that wasnt painted I used a carpet, and brush on PL Contact cement. I think what I always did was way more labor intensive and time consuming tho I guess i knew the box was pretty much water tight with all the contact cement rofl

Actually I think all the subs are pretty much in the same class wattage wise. Im assuming the 3500 is the AA SMD sub, but for all we know it may not even handle that since there is no real specs that Ive seen yet or tests. Then the 2000wrms sub must be the BTL, which are shown they can take excessive power way above their under rated 2000rms. And then I sure hope you mean that the 1500wrms sub is the Sundown (even tho we seen vids of it taking 6krms)!, because DD's are rated at 1500wrms per coil, and will handle well over 4000rms daily in the right box. Tho I thought the post was funny, because Almost everyone here always voted for the Fi BTLS in the past, and now that Steve gots a new sub everyone voting AA SMD, and there was only 1 vote for the btl since this morning, but looks like a 2 more voted for it. Must be a trend.. LoL

^^ same price as the smds for the most part, but when I was talking too him, he seems to have a fairly good connection with killer prices

mhmm dd's cant wait to see the build log!!

nice short vid

Lol. such an idiot.. I mean its a suv, there is a frame under it, why not wrap around the frame or the control arm or something that is steel... I fixed the guys amp about a month ago too. Some how he melted the power terminals LOL. but its only a crunch amp so who cares, it was a easy fix with all the spare parts I got and a quick $20 Crunch amp is powering a old school rockford fosgate punch power DVC 12", in one of my old boxes I made for a dd9512.

Stopped at my friends house tonight and his buddy dropped off his 2002 jeep. I guess his friend put it in the ditch and when his buddy got someone to tow him out he looked under the front and seen no where to attach the tow strap. so he got the idea to put it around the door........ :01nocomment8so: :01nocomment8so: So now its at my friends house and he gonna try to straighten it out a lil bit, and the window dont close all the way either.. LoL I dont know how you can be so stupid but whateva!! rofl

Im kinda wondering on a update too! Scott is a good guy, with good prices, and offers that 90 day warranty and that free return shipping. Like gotFI said that is a crazy high flat price, and if its just a few mosfets, thats a crazy high price labor bill. Lol

like you said if the vehicle dont have power locks, and you put an alarm on it you would have to manually lock and unlock your locks with a key. Yes your alarm will work fine, but it wont unlock the doors when you press disarm, or lock the doors when you arm. does the dome light come on when you lift the outside door handle without opening the door? If it does your alarm would trigger at that point. If the dome light dont turn on til the door is opened the alarm wont trigger until the door is opened. However any heavy hits on the vehicle should trigger the shock sensor and trigger the alarm.

Lol i served you once, and will do it again.. no biggy.. I gave the guy useful information, which he could not put to use. If your unable to find a simple constant 12volt positive wire after testing with a test light or a dmm you got problems. It shouldnt matter if the car is on or off, a power door switch will always operate any time, for that switch to operate there needs to be a constant power wire going to that switch.. If you cant find basic and essential wires that are always used in the audio world you shouldnt be installing things in peoples cars let alone charging for it. Positive and negative wires, not hard to find, ground out your dmm or test light, and probe the wires with the positive lead of the dmm or test light till it shows 12v or there abouts on a dmm, or the test light turns on. It seemed like he wanted to take the quick and easy way out and wire the led's to the speaker wires which would fry the leds sooner or later (prob sooner). So lets say he did this and the led's burnt, now he is going to have to replace the customers speaker(s) due to a mistake he made. But thankfully he checked first like you said. I got no problem with the guy trying to make some extra bucks around the season, but I dont think he should bit off more then he can handle, and let alone pretty much experiment on someone elses ride. PS; I hope I made my post long enough for you again, because I know how much you hate reading what I type, and its Guru to you sir!

good luck, hopefully she works for ya!

yea, always ask for a tracking number. if they aint willing to provide a tracking number then something is very fishy. forgot all about that. Also ups insurance is free up to $100.00 of insurance, after that you have to pay. so if you buy something for $50 and they wont insure it for that free $100, i would ask myself why they wouldnt use the $100 of free insurance. I dont sell much on here, but I tried to make all my buyers happy, and ship items promptly with alot of packaging protection. Also something else to go buy is the users post count, Id trust a user more that visits the site with a couple thousand posts versus some guy that has maybe 10-30 posts and is a somewhat newer user and not known by other members as much

There have been a few scammers here and there. They are on every site, sometimes things just go wrong. Thats the chance you take buying from users, and even online stores when your not making a transaction person to person.. Here at SMD the moderation staff will flag people who have scammed others in the past, there usernames will be in bright pink and it will say scammer under their name, you cant miss it. Sometimes they also get banned from the site too. You can have a user here that sold 200 items and has all positive feedback, but something may happen just that one time and item may get damaged in shipping or something and doesnt arrive how you got it. The administration and moderation staff have took drastic steps to try and have a worry free selling/buying expierence but thats about the most they can do, the rest relies on the buyers / sellers. You can ask for references of the user, or search the buyer/seller feedback forum for their username and previous transactions here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hp?showforum=18 Also you can ask for the sellers phone number and see if he would be willing to talk over the phone to answer any questions (if he wants to sell his item bad enough and have a good rep he should have no reason not to exchange digits).