audiofanaticz

As you ask the same question for the second time.... Your other post was responded too and then locked.. Maybe its too hard for you to click the link for your answers? Lol Since im in a good mode, ill type them out for ya Flatwound coil (+$20) – The flatwire coil option simply helps the power handling of the sub. The coil has more surface area to dissipate heat and will take more power then the regular round wire coil that comes in the ‘stock’ version of the sub. This option will also make the sub tend to be more prone to ‘peaking’ for a budget daily driving sub where you don’t have to use a ton of power to get maximum output and sacrifice sound quality a little bit. In other words, a flatwound coil uses a rectanguler/square wire wraped around the coils former. A regular voice coil uses round wire. Flatwound is better! Copper coil (+$5) – The copper coil is a heavier coil and adds mass to the moving assembly. In comparison to the stock coil, or the flatwound coil, this has the smoothest transitions musically speaking. It is less likely to peak, and is a better overall sub for more Sound Quality based daily drivers. NOTE!! You CAN NOT use both flatwound and copper coil, its either one or the other, you will benifet more from a flatwound coil if your giving the subs more then their rms rating. BP Power (+40) helps flow all of the air under the dustcap around the voice coil for better cooling, comes with an extra spider too. Which will allow the sub to handle more power. Flatwound coil option and BP Power is the best you can get for the sub for higher power applications. If its more of a SQ system you are going for, id say go for the Copper coil, and the BP power option.

That wont really apply to you for a couple reasons. 1) he is running 18s, your on 12s. 2) he is running 20,000+ watts, where your not. Who built what you have in there now? that box looks like there is some detail and time in it. Looks nice, tho I feel you can get it louder with a crx style box like others are posting.

I have gotten a watch from my dad a few years back, it was giving to me buy his wife at the time after he died. I talked to my mom and she thinks it was my grandfathers watch, she remembers the watch and she knows that he had it back in 1975 when they where still married, she said it was his good watch when they went out. I took it to my jewelers today had a new battery put in it to see if it still works, and it does. Im going to ask $300 obo shipped for the watch... My jeweler said it is worth at least that price if not more. He also said its around 40 years old. This is a Swiss made watch. There are some slight scratches on the crystal not too noticable, It shows signs of wear, but still looks great. It has the date in the face, along with 4 diamonds (A diamond at the 2 o'clock, 4 o'clock, 8 o'clock, 10 o'clock hand positions). The case is 14kt gold filled, and has a aftermarket stretchy band on it. If the research I did is correct, the watch was made in 1970 (so 38 years old), I was told it is a accutron 218 model by another forum. The numbers on the back of the watch are B69684, and under that it says N0 (n zero), which is how the date is determind, N0 = 1970, where as N1 = 1971, and so forth til the 80s where the Letter changes again. Some numbers on the inside are 7-0 2662, and some others that say 2452-10 After searching ebay auctions, there are a few watches I seen that are similer, some in way worse conditions as mine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...;Category=31387 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...;Category=52578 - way worse condition, mine is mint compaired to this thing!! http://cgi.ebay.com/BULOVA-ACCUTRON-218-14...%3A1|240%3A1318 None of those watches have any diamonds in them however, mine has 4. Here are some pics. Im gonna post this on ebay as soon as I find a real camera.

nice video!! Your loud

I can make any sub run at any ohm with my accumatches

I think the havocs are around $450 each for 15s. I got a buddy selling (6) 15" havocs for 275$ each, or 250$ each if you buy 3 or more, obo. Not sure on shipping tho.

^^ no, any knob you buy that runs thru rca cords will take whatever your amp does at full tilt, and turn it down. There will be no gain, all they are is a way to controle the volume as if you where using the subwoofer preout feature on the headunit. I personally wouldnt trust any sort of knob that has freq control that runs thru the rca's. I also used a pherpiheral prc -1 for about 2 years until the knob wore out, got massive static sounds when turning the knob. It also turned really hard in cold weather. You will not get a REAL remote bass knob for any amp unless the amp was made for a remote by the factory. All these other knobs will just reduce your headunits preamp output voltage from full to none.

had one of them too, but it wore out the knob got real bad static when turned.

very sexy screen there!

Mine dont on my viper 791, unless i hit my window pretty hard with either a closed fist or palm. My shock sensor is all the way up too. However, with my glass sensor you can drop/toss (not throw or flick) a penny on the glass it triggers the glass sensor which sounds the alarm. A hammer to a window a shock sensor will pick up. A spark plug, or glass breaker to the window, or jingling your keys on the window lightly a glass sensor will pick up.

LoL :hairtrick:

yea, very old find james! Lol Its as bad as me, i seem to do the same shit.. I love the one part of the song.. It was my mysapce title for a while

very clean and nice!! Nice to see a stereo comming all one company. I also like your directed keychain thingy around your neck. I assume you must also work for a shop that loves directed products too congrats man!

real stuff? Looks like CA glue to me, glue and activater...

Slammin' Cadillac Doors - Baby D Ft. Intoxicated

Same

Im sorry, but its true... Honestly, if its such great wire, why is no one using it? I seen maybe 2 or 3 people using the wire from browsing multiple forums (termpro, smd, usaci, caraudio). And those buss bars I posted pics off allow use of 6 runs of 1/0 to be connected to each terminal. The way those are made in the pics is for when you stack 1 amp on top of another, and then you have 3 runs of 1/0 per power connection. Those 7kws have dual pos and neg tho, so each amp is getting 6 pos 1/0 and 6 neg 1/0 connection. The little round clynders sticking out is what gets connected into the amp.

Its a comp car so Im sure they dont care about the chopage And those where made by Cactus Sounds or they had them made. Im pretty sure they are not in production or being sold. But as I stated above, its easy to make your own cheaply with a drill press and a tap & die set

custom fab is part of what makes car audio fun.. to me at least. You dont gotta be all pro about getting bussbars made, or machined at a shop. You can simply go out and buy aluminum semi cheaply, and if you got your self a drill press and some bits start drilling holes, then get a tap and die set, thread some threads in the bar for the set screws to secure the wire in. Aluminum is soft and is almost as conductive as copper without the cost. If you got the tools, or friends with tools you can make yourself some crazy but useful stuff cheap! I just thru pics up for ideas, since it was asked about didnt say its needed.. Since he is using the cheaper price Knukonceptz wire, Im willing to bet he will not want to drop $7.00 a foot on stinger 3/0 oval, then have to buy the 3/0 oval connectors/adaptors at $15+ a piece. Yea, Stinger oval 3/0 oval is 6272 strands, knukonceptz fleks 1/0 is 5140 strands, and knukonceptz klm(x) is 5145 strands...... ass rapings by stinger ftl Of coarse strand count from 1 company to antoher company maybe a little different, meaning that each strand maybe thicker or thinner. But If you look at the Stinger 3/0 oval in person to another decent wire (knu fleks, RF, Kicker) you will laugh as stinger gets walked all over. Again as with cheaper companies (db link, schoshe, install bay) where you buy 1/0 gauge wire and see a big diameter casing, but wire that is equal to or lesser then a quality 4 awg wire, and lots of rubber casing, you get the same thing from this crazy expensive wastefull stinger 3/0. People dont seem to use that wire much at all by the looks on forums because of its rediculos cost vs performance vs other wire companies. The whole boner with the wire is that its oval. People thought it was cool.. Im sure if someone puts a trapazoid casing on their wire, people will get a boner over it, then die out just like the stinger.

Damn that sucks! I cant see that being $4g's in damage tho, but looks can be deciving. My buddy just hit a deer a few weeks ago, but it was in his beater and not a decent car

Screw Stinger 3/0 big rip. Im not impressed with their oval wires at all. Just a way to charge more for things because your forced to use their gay adapters. Im anti Stinger, Companies that buy products from other companies, put their stickers on the product and charge 4+ times for their products is BS. I dont know what your using for amps, but these lil suckers are pretty cool. Multiple runs of wire into the amps is a bonus!

you will be fine. Also if you have a rear battery bank, your amps going to suck of those batteries way before the electricity travels thru the 2 runs of power wire up to the front. Current will draw from the path with least resistance rear batteries > front battery.

cyber monday is a bunch of BS according to my local news station and a few other sites. Edit, forgot the whole reason why i was posting. That amp is decent, I recently repaired a Crunch blackmaxx 1100watt 2 channel amp for a friend that is the same as that just older.

and wait over a month to get your amp looked at? lol That man is busy! if you got the time yea go do it, but the op was in a hurry. X2 I delt with ARC in a few cases. They have always been fast on calling me back with quotes, fixing the unit, shipping out the next day after payment with free shipping. Not to mention a 90 day warranty. There prices are very competitive, of coarse a larger amp will cost more to fix. They are hit or miss when you call them for someone to answer, but if you leave a message, they will get back to you! The place is short staffed and do great work. Ill be sending them some other amps when i get spare cash to. A+++ Tho I was hoping to have a amp back today I wont because of turkey holidays, but thats not ARC's fault.

I watch it every now and then when if im channel surfing.