audiofanaticz

buy him some cheap horn tweets, he obviously likes his crispy highs. lawl

ouch!! My buddy almost made the same mistake a couple months ago and been trying to contact kinetik for 16volt batteries. Needless to say he likes my leaky d3100s and how they held up being 6 years old, he went ahead and ordered 20 XS Power 16volts. Yummm!

Pics posted for the haterz hating on the new guy that dont know how to link photos, or that are too dumb to look at his photobucket link at the end of his post.....

Thanks DylanH!

My vote is exhaust. The way I see it, your hoe is bagged, your old lexus was dropped, and well.. it be more fun driving a car with more go go juice then one that sits lower

forget it..too much hassle to put lots of videos on this site compaired to other forums. So just go here where the videos auto embed to the forums and allow more then 5 videos per post. http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/smp/77818-2nd-annual-frost-off-radio-doctor-show-23.html#post1200384

Oh wows thanks all!!! and LMAO to you mr Team HT haha

thanks all!

Thanks Logan!!

Just wondering if I can get some people to click "Like" on our team facebook page please so more options are unlocked! thanks everyone! http://www.facebook.com/pages/Team-TMH/139138366157760

My tahoe does this on with 24s but it is fine with stock wheels, kinda feels like my truck tire is pausing i guess, but I rarely turn the wheels all the way unless parallel parking. It is caused from the angle of your front axels being too much for the 4 wheel drive usually, and if the vehicle is in 4wd, it will normally do it even worse or sooner with a less sharp turn. This is from a 04 gmc truck (probably close to the same thing). but Im pretty sure with the bigger rims something changes the angle of the front axels, and with the increased angle and the sharper turn the knuckles that are under the boot are maxed out and dont turn completly free i think. What the nuckles kinda look like under the black boots. Ive tried lowering my front end, and even bringing it above stock by adjusting the torsion bar keys, but no matter what it still does it with my 24s, but fine with stock wheels.

WOOOT! Im tuned in and subbed. Deffeinitly want to see the d3100 vs the hc2400 being taken apart and see the guts! great idea skitttttles.

You dont want to skimp on wiring, but yet you want 8 gauge. Thats the biggest car audio double negative ever! LoL

^^^^Chicken!

No Idea, try it and let me know the outcome bahahahhaaha No, maybe you can try it??!?!? THIS IS JUST FOR LOLs, and I figured its better then most the tutorials I see floating around the net, this one just aint true. Tho I do want to try it, but not with brand new hid kits, but I will be sure to try it on the old ballasts im taking out of my truck soon!

First off this is just a tutorial, and my recommendations from my testings and trouble shooting experiences doing so! First off you need a few things! ~ Tools to remove your current headlights, and install HID lighting. A few common things screw drivers, zipties, butt-connectors, crimp camps, electrical tape, small socket or wrench set (my prefered method is soldering all connections with silver solder for the absolute best connection and then heat shrinking soldered wires). ~ 4 55watt HID Ballast (all 4 most be the same)! ~ 2 HID bulbs (bulb temp/color is to your choice)! ~ 2 HID Ballast Fused wiring kits ( a must have since the amount of current draw is more then a typical stock halogen bulb). BEWARE THAT IF YOU CHOSE TO NOT USE THE HID BALLAST FUSED WIRING KITS THAT STOCK OEM WIRE COULD MELT AND CAUSE FIRE!!!! Now onto the How-to!! Im just going to show how to do 1 HID bulb setup, for your other headlight you would do the same exact thing!! First off, you need your 4 ballasts, 2 ballast per headlight. The 4 ballasts on the right of this picture I will be using! Must use 55Watt ballasts, this WILL NOT work with 35watt ballasts, only 55watt ballasts from any manufacture. 35Watt ballasts are built cheaper and will only last a short time from testing!!!! Here are the 2 Heavy Duty Fused Relay wiring harness, 1 per headlight! My 2 HID bulbs of choice. First you want to take your 2 matching HID Ballasts and connect the HID Bulb outputs, This is simular to Strapping a pair of Amplifiers. Same concept. Once connected they should look like this. Next, you want to take your Fused HID Ballast relay wiring harness, and connect to both ballasts like pictured. Keep in mind that you see 2 plugs that you would plug your oem harness into, only 1 plug per harness would be used. The other plug can be taped off. The factory headlight harness that plugs into this harness is what turns the new 110 Watt HIDs on/off. The other side of the harness has 2 wires, a Positive and a Negative that gets connected to your vehicles battery to supply the HID Ballasts with all the needed juice! Your last step is to connect the HID Bulb to the HID harness, self explanatory. You then want to repeat these steps over for your other headlight. When you are finished you have 2 110 Watt HID headlights to blind all them motherfuckers on the road!!!!!! Kids and non-experienced installers please do not try this at home, These are very powerful and COULD KILL YOU!! This was something I was just thinking up seeing all these ballasts here. I HAVE NO IDEA IF THIS WILL WORK OR IF IT WONT, OR WHAT WILL COME OF THIS IF DONE. DO NOT TRY THIS UNLESS YOU GOT SOME OLD BALLASTS AND BULBS TO TRY, AND EVEN THEN I WOULD TRY THIS IN A OPEN WELL VENTILATED AREA AND POSSIBLY HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER ON HAND! I will be trying this shortly on some old ballasts and bulbs and will make a video, unless someone beats me to the idea first. But this was just too funny to post

anyone? Preferably looking for cooks.

Image of what he said.

There are things called "easy outs" used for getting stripped screws out. http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE You can get them at most hardware stores. kinda explains how they are used.. http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html And if the threads on the amp are stripped you can re-tap them to the same size or next size bigger, but you will need a "flat bottom tap" due to the normal taps with not being able to go thru the terminal block far enough to re-thread the hole fully. What you would need are something like these VS a normal tap that has a coned tip and would not go far enough thru to make a good thread.