audiofanaticz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glNLmukJbEc&feature=email&email=comment_received

Funny... Apparently going on another forum with Lots and Lots of users from the IL area is too much work huh? I can think of a easy 10+ people in IL area with a TL...

Lots of people in IL have TL. Id suggust hitting up the CACO forums (caraudioclassifieds) and making a post there. Most the Team DOA guys over there have the right connections.

Enjoy, comment, rate, and subscribe for more LOLs in the futures!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_VOaNUhKcM

make the box as big as possible!!! 4.5-5.5 cubed after port and sub displacement sounds great! With so little power the woofer will love the biggest box it can have! When doing a slot port, I always try to have it the whole width or height of the box depending on which way I put the port. I am strongly against putting a port in the middle of a box like you have, and having to build 3 sides to make the port! Generally the port in the middle will create lots of dead standing waves in the box and mess with air flow. Your measurements you listed are useless since I dont know which is length, depth, and width which could result in building the box many different ways, and taking the time with just guessing which is which is just a pita!

LMAO nice lift man! Dont got one myself, but got access to some whenever needed. They sure come in handy and saves the back a lot!!!

Ascendant audio is the "Dealer" line of woofers. Which means, they do not sell online. Where Fi audio is the internet brand. Hence why you see no order form on the Ascendant Audio website. Chances are you are not receiving pricing due to this, you must go thru a Ascendant Audio Dealer to buy the products. Steve Meade is a dealer so maybe try talking to him for pricing. Usually the AA pricing is very similar to the Fi pricing, Maybe just a little more then Fi depending on what you want. AA does not due this special pricing to one person, then charges another person another price like some popular internet brands that give you a price based on who you are and what you have accomplished in the audio world.

DC By a long shot!

What kind of voltage regulator did you get? Is it one of those blue or black transpo's?

then your just got issues! LOL I only left mine sit on a 2 amp constant charge for a good 2 weeks before ever using them Swapped them off that charger and dropped them on the ctek for some more conditioning for a couple days, and back on the low 2 amp constant charge for a few more days

Chances are you didnt train your battery like I have mine.

Even AGM batteries gas and squeal like a pig when over charged. I have a nsb90 that is bulged, gasses, and squeals. It was used in our street b car for competition and was charged at a very high voltage to get the most out of the amp for compeitions without exceeding the voltage limit for the class. And this is a AGM battery so that proves Orielly's wrong But under normal conditions AGM batteries do not release any sort of gasses and are safe for to be inside the vehicle cabin, and installed which ever way but upside down in many cases. As for charging at 15 volts to a agm battery, that is fine. I charge my D3100s at 15.2-15.5 volts with 3 DC Power alternators and have zero issues with them what so ever.. And did I mention these batteries are over 5 years old and are still rock solid! AGM batteries require a higher charging voltage to be fully charge. Normally a 12 volt battery charges around 14volts A 16 volt battery charges around 18 volts. A good AGM battery should rest around 13 volts or so, so if rests at 13 you should charge it around 15volts. (rest meaning fully charged, with no current draw on the battery) Ive never heard of a XS Power battery having issues being charge at the 15volt range, nor had any problems with mine. However I have read stories of Kinetic batteries overheating and bulging from it.

It is very real Twisted. They where to have the monster 21inch 9500s about 2 or 3 years ago already, but things happened and they had an issue with surrounds being made. I know they have the baskets stacked up all over the place.

That is what he told me when he repaired my old amps that ran vertical mosfets. Not sure if he adds more too it or not however, but Ive talked to him a good bit about amps and amp repair.

Thats awefuly expensive to fix a powerbass amplifier. My spl dynamic 3000s where only $300 to rebuild the powersupply @ db-r Db-R solders the mosfet legs from both the bottom side and top side of the pcb to stiffen them up as much as possible. The weak solder joints from the factory is what allows the mosfet legs to stress and break, keeping them flexible while fixing the amp will result in the same problem.

Too small of a fuse on your amp will not cost the amp to fry. Your theory sounds correct, but it is wrong Running a small fuse will not limit the amount of voltage or current going thru it. Ill break it down more below. But yes, I agree a rear battery is needed!! Im always right bro I fried my fair share of things in the past, sometimes on purpose, sometimes accident or just not caring. LOL Excessive gain and or bassboost. Thank you Fusing... Is it needed, of coarse! But will it stop a amp from blowing? No If something is going to blow, it will blow reguardless if there is a fuse inline on the power wire, or the amp itself, you could have 10 fuses on your 1 amp, but it wont stop the amp from releasing magic smoke, but will create a good amount of resistance thru your power wire. All fuses are ment for is protecting your vehicle from catching fire incase your power wire shorts out. The way fuses are created is to allow current to flow thru them. Each one is designed for its desired current flow needs and not blowing when being used at their max load (300amps in this case). Generally a dead short will not blow the fuse immediately. I encourage you to take a 300amp fuse and holder, connect 2 pieces of wire to it, and arch it a few times across a high rate agm battery (like a XS Power D3100 which max short circuit amps is 5000). More then likely if you dead short this fuse on this battery, you will see around 5000amps of current go thru it for a split second and it will not blow. A 300 amp fuse generally will not blow until it sees about 375-400+ amps of current for a good 5 seconds or so (sometimes longer, sometimes shorter. Every brand of fuse is different). At this point your shorted wire had enough time to get very hot and could easily start to melt your carpets or anything else along the run of power wire, or worst start a small fire. So the question is, does a 3000wrms amp need 300 amps of fusing? No, You could be perfectly safe with a 200amp fuse. As most of us should know by now a amp will almost never make rated power after you calculate impedance rise into the equation. Now if you add a rear battery or two this will result even a smaller fuse being needed on your main power wire(s) Since electricity will flow the path of least resistance. Which results in your amp pulling most its needed current from the rear batteries putting less strain on your power wire going front to back. /essay done, hopefully its some waht decent, pretty tired. lols

It went up in smoke becasue: The amp was ran at too low of an impedance. The amp was ran hot due to clipping or some other reason, and protect circuit didnt catch it, or failed. The amp had a lose power or ground. The amp dipped to low on voltage. The amp was vibrated to death, and with vertical mosfets they break easily and cause a chain reaction. You could of blew a sub, and protect circuit didnt catch it and the woofers voice coil created a dead short on the amp. Looking at the amp it seems like the powersupply went out, killing all the mosfets or most of them, and gate resistors. Repair costs are ruffly $150-$225 from db-r electronics.

I wasnt flaming.... LOL Some people on the internet really gotta take their panties out of their ass crack from time to time... It was called constructive criticism to get you to post numbers..

eh.... if they had to have the windows open, then put the mic in the kick it probably aint loud.

Have you tried restoring your bios to defualt to see if it will go? Sometimes I notice with my new rig that if I change too many things in bios at once it will not post, so I end up having to change 1 setting at a time, save, restart into windows, then go back into bios to change the next setting I want too. But this is only every so often, mostly when overclocking my asus board. Edit: When you changed your boot order, im assuming you still have ide/hdd 2nd, and cd rom first right? You didnt just change 1st boot device to cd rom, and not enter anything for the 2nd boot device?

Also make sure your Cd Rom, and hard drive ribbons are put in correctly and not backwards. If your running the hard drive and Cdrom off the same ribbon make sure you have the master and slave jumper selections correct, or use cable select for the jumpers on both drives. Make sure your ribbons are good, if you have a spare ribbon try swapping them out. Of coarse the above only applies if your using old fashion ribbons, and does not apply to sata cables.

First off try phiscally removing any additional hardware not needed to run the computer. Things like sound card(if a pci card is used and not the onboard), video card (and use onboard video if mobo has it), any additional usb device (besides mouse and keyboard, UNLESS you have a old PS2 Keyboard use that instead until you get it booted into windows), any slave hard drives and cd roms, etc. Just leave the bear essentials. If it still dont go you will have to format and reinstall the operating system due to missing or damaged files upon initial installation. This will most likely be your needed fix.. Also make sure everything is installed and tightly secured and all additional add-on cards, memory are fully latched in their correct slots.

think the spider was a tad to stiff to take full excursions, that and he pretty much played way way way below tuning and the sub unloaded very badly!

The Rocket video! Has to finish processing yet, but shall be HD once completed!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIK9t0DRy64

There is videos.. you must of not scrolled down far enough to see it! Sundown nightshade v2 motor and Ascendant Audio Mayhem rocketship comming up soon!!!!!