audiofanaticz

any wire upgrade you can possible do will help thing out.

damn that sucks mang. Look at it this way, you got something to do today. just be sure to video it being thrown thru the sellers window!

Im not going to ask why your grounding a wire to your header/manifold....... And dont go wiring a relay off your headunit for your regulator. All that is going to do is only allow your alternator to charge when your radio is on. but when its off its not going to charge the vehicle one bit.. Find a ignition wire under your hood a good place to look is the fuse panel under the hood. Make sure its a ignition. Wire your relay off the ignition, being sure to get power direct from your battery. This way the ignition wire turns the relay on, the relay gets power from the battery, which turns the regulator on. Connecting your positive wire to a ignition wire in the vehicle without a relay causes voltage varitation because the voltage is already going thru your entire car before comming to the regulator. The only other way is to go direct off the battery and put a switch inline to turn your regulator on/off when you use your car, if you leave the regulator on tho when the car is off, chances are you will burn it up. Im on my 3rd external regulated system, and no matter what I used for a ignition source I had to run a relay off a ignition wire to get rid of the flicker (3 different brand alts also).

ahahaha

It works fine on my end.. As it says in his post make sure your windows is up to date with the latest framework and what not. Click on your start bar, and goto update windows, and when your at the windows site, select custom install, and check mark almost everything that it lists (except for stuff like monitor/video drivers, sound drivers, eithernet drivers etc cuz that wont matter).

There are different schools you can goto and learn hands on stuff like http://www.caraudiomag.com/specialfeatures...iles/index.html Then there are other certifications you can go and get like MECP (which offers many different levels of schooling from basic to advanced). But in the basic coarse you are more less reading a hand book and taking a test much like in school with no hands on learning. You can actually get mecp certified and get a job, and on the first day of work have no idea what your doing. I dont think you will have much luck in the AU with schools that offer classes and what not tho. Most your learning will be hands on like teh hoe92 said. Reading forums and looking at tutorial pictures will also help you generate ideas and get creative. But your best bet would to be finding a audio shop and get a job doing whatever you can, and be interested in learning as much as you can, and staying late off the clock helping out with installs.

I didnt see this til after you edited your post. The box calculator im using is one of the most accurate ones online made by Expo Sport on these forums. And with your listed dimensions of your current box, your port failed bad. Im also bringing some of the specs on this box from a PWK design that I just got. Its almost half the size for my 2 9518s Im building soon. You can get his calculator here, and do some number crunching for yourself. And if you get really curious try out some of the other online "box calculators" and notice the change in tuning freq for yourself using the same dimensions.

Thats for a G series 9500. I have no idea what you are running. However Id go with 5 cubed. But that is besides the point.. Its fact that a larger box will make the speaker louder with less powered because its more efficent, where as when you toss more power to your speaker you need a smaller box. Do you know how big Dantes box is? Its under 3 cubed if i remember correct and its doing big numbers with lots of power. More power less box. Im just trying to help and took the time to mess with some numbers and it seems like you dont wanna try anything else. If you dont want to try new things and are going to be stubborn why bother posting?

Blazers are actually easier to get loud, subs up port back is not always the loudest tho. So because you got a suv dont be stuck on a crx style box And if my box isnt louder, your only out $30 bucks, and on to trying something new, but thats the fun part to audio.

It calls for 5 cubed after displacements. We are a dd dealer at the shop I work for, and ive ran DD's for about 7 years. So for what its worth, Id try my box I said for you. Or else call up and talk to Steve and see what he says for it.

actually your current box is about 8.4 cubed, 5.10 cubed after sub and port displacement, tuned to 38.5 hz, with 130.5 square inches of port. Your port area is way too big for that box, and should be ruffly 62-82 square inches. If you fill your rear barn doors you will gain about .5 db's or more. Or sound deaden the hell out of them, but i prefer greatstuff. I did a 146.7 with 1 fried 9518, 1500wrms and was burping at 41hz in my 99 hoe.

Can you give me external dimensions of your current box, as well as all the ports dimensions? I would try this, and go from there. This box is prob be a winner, and gain you at least 1.5 db's maybe more depending on your ride. External box size: Height = 18 inches Width = 34 inches Length = 25 inches Port size: Height = 16.5 inches Width = 5.25 inches Length = 20 inches Which is 7.2 cubed After woofer and port displacement it will be 5.3 cubed. Square inches of port = 86.6 Tuning freq = 35 hz Sub and port both on the front, and put the woofer as close to the port as possible. Your also going to have to bend the port along the back of the box. Something like this. Adding a second baffle would be wise, and would raise tuning freq a like bit, but under a 1hz. I think your current box maybe a little to efficient and the extra power is just unloading the sub, but I cant be too certain without your current measurements.

Google is your friend.. This thread seems like it has a lot of good info in it, and people saying never buy the scanners second hand. Maybe it will help ya. http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37517

This means your box sucks for the most part. You did not design and or build it right. Without knowing your box specs, woofer & port displacement not much else can be said. Putting resin inside your box really dont gain Deebeez, If your lucky 0.2 deebeez is all you will gain. Resin mostly only makes the wood denser. I know a few Hardcore spl people that tested this and seen nothing in their vehicles by adding resin. 45 degree corners may help, or may hurt you more. It depends on your current box size. It will change your tuning freq because it takes up more internal displacement. Soaking up some box space may help you gain if the box is too small. Best way about going with 45s is to use clay and form them in and test or cut them out duct tape them inside and test. 45's could hurt you or help you. Testing is the only way. I say to use tape because if it lowers your score they are not perm in your box. Not really true, Tho Im not about to argue with Steve. The paper cones are normally fine. Look at 90+% of the speakers made to this date and tell me what kind of cones they have. Yes they can be a weak point tho when your tossing extremely large amounts of power to the speaker for burps (the cones can and may fold, but the composite cones will do the samething too. Generally a carbon fiber dustcap stiffens the cone up a lot (way more then a regular paper dustcap or plastic like some other companies) When you order a DD sub with the carbon fiber dustcap (in most cases) they will still have the stock dustcap underneath adding a stiffer cone (at least on my 9518s I noticed this). However you shouldnt have to worry about folding your cones with 1 or even 2 m1s, unless like I said before your box is crap and are totally off on your porting and got way too much back pressure inside the box.

Im affraid to run a good underated 6000rms off 2 batteries with a 270amp Mechman alt, and all other wiring upgrades. dont forget this guy has compressors to be running off the batteries too.

x2. I got the same thing going on. here a pic, but i added lots to it since it was taken. had to start another wall.

Id say at least 4 to 6 batteries. 4 would probolly be good enough, but 6 is just going to be that overkill that is always great to have. This will allow you to beat longer, and still have reserve left over for the compressors.

props mang!

congratz

really cool you got this mang! I think it was a great choice, i want one bad. srx>escalade (well except chickens of coarse) I still think 2 dd 9515Z's and a Stetsom 14kd would be a nice 152+db daily driver.

real nigga roll call.. Song makes me wanna fight bad. I dunno why.. And i like Ice cubes parts. Cant say for sure if this would be my choice. but I do like it a lot.

x2 omg. How did i forget that. I ended up running a amp at .2 ohms because of this. DMM varied from .9 to 1.2 or so, meh I just thought it was rise.

depending on how old or beat up your probes are can change resistance too. so thats another thing to keep your eye on.

Dont forget the room for teh few batteries to keep those amp happy.

imo you will be better off ground each amp directly to the battery, then a ground to your battery. A distro block is a bit different then a busbar Generally a busbar runs directly on the batteries, where as the distro block also grounds to the batteries but has a piece of wire between the 2. Generally speaking the wire between the dirstoblock and the batteries should be twice as thick as the wires running from the amps to the distro. I dont know what kind of power you will be pushing so its hard to say if the above will matter. But I always prefer to take the path of least resistance.