audiofanaticz

its a simple swap, you take the old alternator off, and reinstall the new alternator just as how you took the old one off. Most the time its 3 or 4 bolts. Your alternator maybe in a hard to reach spot making it difficult tho. But you could be the judge of that by opening your hood. I believe what dwright was referring to is doing a dual alt setup (2 alternators on 1 truck) which can be a pain becuase you got to pray that a alternator company makes a aftermarket bracket to bolt the 2nd alternator up too, or you got to custom fab your own bracket. I dont recall you saying that you want to run 2 alternators unless i missed it somewhere, nor do I think you would need 2 alternators if you just got 1 good 250-300 amp alternator.

very pointless post. you just sent him to 3 different sites and he has no idea what to look for on any site. A good battery would be Powermaster or Kinetik. Id say it be best to put either a powermaster d3100 or kinetik hc2400 in your trunk by your amp. These big batteries weight about 80 pounds and will run you anywhere from $300 to $400 shipped brand new. http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/mobile_audio.html or http://www.kinetikaudio.com/ And just for a side note, the powermaster d3100 battery and the kinetik hc2400 are very compairable to each other BUT the powermaster d3100 battery is almost always cheaper in price, and will do more max amperage, and has a higher AH rating which are key things in batteries. A great wire at a great price is the Knukoncepz Kolossus Fleks Kable. You are going to want to use 1/0 gauge wire for your power and ground. It cost $3.25 per foot. http://knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?c...20Fleks%20Kable or if you want to save some more money, use their KLMX kable that costs $1.75 per foot. Note this wire does withstand as much current flow as the fleks kable, but with a big battery by your amp it will be fine. http://knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?c...ry=KLMX%20Kable You can also get your fuse holders, fuses, rca cords, ring terminals from knukonceptz at a good price. A upgraded alternator is a must have when you get into high powered stereos, your amp will drain a bit of juice but for the mean time you should be pretty good with the stock alt. A highoutput alternator is going to cost you the most. Depending on vehicle and size, youll be looking at $300-500 for a good high amperage alternator. A few decent companies are: Dc Power http://www.dcpowerinc.com/ Mechman http://mechman.com/store/index.php Ohio Generator http://www.ohiogen.com/ For the mean time if you decide to run the stock alternator, I will suggust a MLA module (missing link audio). This module plugs into your alternator, and will allow your alternator to charge at a higher voltage for keeping your batteries maintained to their fullest! They are only avaible for some vehicles so you would have to ask to know if one is availble. These work on Stock and aftermarket alternators, so when you upgrade your alt, it will work with your new one, and your stock one. They cost about $200-300 shipped. http://www.missinglinkaudio.com/ I also want to suggust to you to do the "big 3 upgrade" under your hood. You can find out what it is and how to do it here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=13280

x2 So I gotta say a crx is the best, your almost guarenteed a 150+db on a burp db drag legal with 2 10s and 3000wrms

me personally. Id go find meades Hoe, put it up on jacks and swap his tank for yours. Problem fixed! and thens since you got it up on jacks right away, swap your rims for his. LOL

I dont see why keeping everything under the window line matters? Theres no class restrictions for bassrace as far as window line goes. And if you plan to burp, your already in a higher class since you have no back seat. Just wall it, and keep it behind the b piller.

what speakers? Directed? You can buy those subs right now for 25-60 a piece depending on the model, they where all on close out but they maybe out of stock already since directed stopped making them and are focusing on orion

Yea, most the waffle houses are the same too from the ones Ive been at in FL and GA when I was younger.

I love ihop's hashbrowns, Seems as if Denny's also uses the same kinda, or cooks them the same. I also know Perkins use to be the same, but when I went there last week for breakfast I left with disappointment becuase they changed. So Im just wondering if anyone works at one of the two or use to work there, or knows someone that works there. Im addicted to the flavor they have, I dont know what it is or nothing. Ive tried everything veggie oil, canola oil, corn oil, shortening, so many different types of butters and whipped butters. When I use to manage a hotel I actually bought a case of shredded hashbrowns from the owner who also had a restaurant as well as this special oil that they used. Their food distributor was Reinheart. I also tried using Oridea shredded frozen hashbrowns. And I even bought a few different types of potatoes and shredded them myself. Of coarse I let the hashbrowns unthaw fully, rinse and dry. I tried making them in a skillet pan, as well as a big griddle. Im sick of having to drive a hour and a half one way to get my hashbrown fix

great video mang!

Lol yea.. I think I push teh limits on this site at times....

Yea, my home depot looks like they got 7 ply 3/4inch and 11ply 3/4 inch, both the same price, all the others I mentioned are 11ply 3/4inch only. I will admit, mr.p's box was sexy with the stain!! I liked that alot, you guys did a great job on it!!

What is the densest and lightest wood for building boxes. I prefer densest over weight, but if theres one that is best in both which one is it? Ive always used mdf do to pricing I always read that Birch is the best. and Im going for performance, I have a truck so Im not to worried about the weight, but I get bad mpg as it is, so the lighter the better without sacrificing how dense the wood is. Im pretty sure birch is going to be teh winner. Boxes is going to be subs up, port back with a 4 layer top baffle, 2 layer sides (except the back by port which will be 3 layer), bottom maybe 1 or 2 layers (still undecided). Oak 11ply $44 per sheet maple 11ply $49 per sheet birch 11 ply $54 per sheet

If your running 2 batteries and you have 1 battery up front and 1 batter in the rear, you should fuse 12-16 inches within the front battery, and then fuse 12-16 inches with in the rear battery. if your amp has internal fuse(s) you have no need to fuse between the rear battery and your amp, but if your amp has no fuse, you should fuse between the rear battery and your amp, fuse size should be the recoomended size fuse for the amp. If your putting both batteries under the hood, its not really needed to fuse between the 2 batteries, but fuse within 12-16 inches of the 2nd front battery on the wire going to the back. Now for fusing your front and rear batteries, its best to fuse to the rated amperage that can be carried thru the wire. If your using 1/0 awg wire you should be safe fusing at 300 amps for both the fuses. Or you can fuse a bit less, say at your alternators max amperage output, or close too it. so if you have a 175 amp alt, you could fuse to 200 amps. If you have a rear battery, most your power will be taken from the rear battery so you wouldnt have as much current running from front to back resulting in a smaller fuse size. But anywhere from 200-300 amp fuses should be good for 1/0 wire.

upgrading the alternators is always one of the best things you can do if its in your budget.. I guess Id goto autozone or someother parts store and look up the alternator for the car your looking at, then it will tell you the size, but sometimes some cars do come with a couple different alternators. I just used honda as a example, but most the times things like hondas, nissan, geos etc (smaller cars) have smaller alts

Most stock alts will have enough extra power to charge a 2nd battery unless your driving something like a honda that has a 60-80 amp alternator. Each additional battery takes about 10 amps away from the alternators max charging amperage. Just wire the 2 batteries together, positive from batt 1 to batt 2, negative from batt 1 to bat 2, then run your power wire to your amp(s) from your bigger battery. Adding a 2nd battery to a stock alt will help prolong the alternators life, otherwise your trying to use your alternator to power your amp when your stock battery goes dead within a few minutes. You really want your alternator to just charge and maintain your batteries and have your amp draw its power from the batteries instead of having your alternator work at its max load trying to power the amps.

Theres always room for an additional bettery, either in the spare tire well, in front of the box, behind the box, on the side of the box, on top etc. Just be sure to get a deep cycle sealed battery this way it can be mounted in any position except upside down. Without having the proper electrical upgrade your just prone to fry the amp again edit: Seeing that your driving a silverado chances are its either a 105 amp alternator or 130 amp alternator (most the time its the 105 amper unless you bought some package when you got the truck that included the higher amp alternator, or you replaced the factory with a higher amp alt from autozone or some place like that). Now your mmat 2200.1 Im going to assume is this one http://www.mmatsproaudio.com/pdfs/DHCx2200.1%20Manual.pdf it only has 4awg power and ground inputs so your going to need to run 0 gauge from the front to the back, then buy a distubution block and place it someplace close to the amp and try to use a 4 awg wire as short as possible from the distrobution block to the amp. Or you can buy a 0 gauge to 4 gauge reducer and this will allow the wire to fit (this will be cheaper then going with a distro block), or cheapest yet is to snip some of the extra strands of wire off the 0 gauge till it fits into your amp. Here is a user on this site that is selling 2 reducers for 10$ shipped. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=37384 I see the amp needs to be externally fuse, you should probolly be running a 150 to 200 amp fuse as close to the amp as can be. your amp makes its rated power at 13.8 volts. mmats is a decent company and most the time their amps will do the real rms power if the electrical is there to back it. Now you look at your alternator size, which is 105 amp, and you have an amplifier that needs about 175 amps of current to do its rated power at 13.8 volt ( and even a larger current draw to do its rated power at 12.5 volts) With your stock battery under the hood, after about 2 or 3 minutes of playing time at full tilt your battery will be dead, and your amp will continue to draw more power then your alternator can provide your battery to keep it charged. and you have yet to figure in the amount of power needed for your other amp that powers your mids and tweets. Seeing that you are driving a chevy, and you have absoultly no room under the back seat. open your hood and see if you have an additonal space under the hood for a 2nd battery. Most gms from 95 up have a 2nd battery tray in the front (one on driver side, and other on passenger side) this would be another good spot for a 2nd battery.

4 gauge power wire is almost cutting it close for a 1000watt rms amp let alone a 2000+ watt amp and an additional amp. You may not be supplying your sub amp with enough power. It may have been working previously with out any problems, but chances you have very bad voltage drop since your running a stock alternator and posibly a stock front battery with no rear battery? Over time your amp played fine, and the voltage drops finally killed it. How it happens is when your voltage drops your amp will still try to do its rated power, but when doing so its requiring more amperage to make its rated power at a lower voltage, the lower voltage and lack in current makes the amp play way harder. The mosfets inside the amp will be working double time trying to produce the power that it cant do, theres many mosfets all wired in parallel inside the amp and each mosfet is rated for a giving amperage say 10-20 amps per mosfet, with the lower voltage these mosfets will be trying to draw more current causing them to work harder then what they are rated for, they will heat up and burn out over time. If you cant get your amp to come out of protect with your speakers and rca's disconnected your amp is most likely fried, and will need to be repaired, chances are it will be your power supply fets that are shot and your output mosfets will still be fine. You will need to send it out for repairs, if its still under warantee Id try contacting mmats for repair, if its not under warranty youd need to find a amp repair center.. Id suggust ARC ( www.amprepaircenter.com ) If its just the powersupply shot it will cost you $100-180 for repair, and arc will give you a 90 day warranty on the repair, as well as free return shipping. These guys do very good work too!! Now if the amp is blown and you send it out for repair, It is needed to upgrade to a quality 0 gauge wire ( stinger, rockford fosgate, kicker, knukonceptz), Id also reccomend doing the big 3 wiring underneath your hood. (you can find more info in the electrical/wiring section of the forums, I think its stickyied so it should be towards the top of the forums). Last but not least, You will need a good battery, in the rear of your vehicle close to your amp. Something such as a powermaster or kinetik ( i prefer powermaster becuse they are a tad cheaper in price, and they put out more power).

no real need to replace the yellow tops if they are good. Just get the 3 powermaster d3100s for in the back, and put the yellow tops up front, and toss that redtop out The current is going to flow the path with the least resistance, your 3 big batteries in the rear is going to have less resistance then the batteries up front. Most of your amps power will come straight from the rear batteries. PS: Powermasters d3100s have a higher ah rating and more amps then a hc2400. and are also cheaper at most places

It could be for a ton of reasons. You really left this pretty wide open. What kind of headunit do you have What kind of electrical setup do you have (batteries, wire, alternator). What ohm voicecoils are your subs, and what do you have them wired at? Whats your bassboost set at. Whats your gain set at? To try and trouble shoot your problem, Id suggust disconnecting the RCA's and speakers from your amp. So you only have a positive, ground, and remote hooked to the amp. If the amp turns on without protect, it narrows your problem down to a either a short in the speaker wires, fried voice coils causing a dead short at the amp, or bad rca cords. Then after you disconnected the rcas and speakers from the amp and if it seems to power up fine, turn your stereo off, plug in the rca's if it goes into protect once rca's are plugged in, try a new set of rca cables. If it powers up fine, turn the stereo off again, hook up the speakers ( do one speaker at a time) turn the radio back on and see if the amp powers up or goes protect if the amp powers up fine, connect the other sub. Also make sure you have a good solid ground on the cars body. make sure you removed any paint on the body where the ground is to ensure a good connection. If you have a pioneer headunit, your rca ground inside the headunit may have gone bad, try ground out the outerside of the rca cords (not the pin that goes inside). NOTE*** make sure to turn the stereo or car off when disconnecting and connecting the rca cords and the speakers, or you will risk blowing things up. After you tried all these. Post back with your conclusions.

If you really have 7000wrms id say at least 3 Powermaster d3100s in the back. But for some reason Im getting the feeling that your amps are 3500 watts PEAK each, and I cant think of any decent brand audio companies that have 3500 watt amps. So most likely youll be fine with 1 powermaster d3100.

The type Rs will get louder with less power then cvr's due to the lower rms rating depending on what model/year cvr's you have, but peak power ratings are the same on both subs.

hushmat all the way.. If its good enough for meade and chicken, its more then good enough for you. And the price aint going to hurt your wallet to bad either.

Lol cmon now.... he said type r or kicker... You would need at least a dc lvl 3 to compair to either sub he was asking about... But since you wanna jump the bandwagon thing.. Digital designs 1508, and yes it will walk all over your lvl2, lvl3, type r, or cvr...

I feel that the build quality of a type R is more durable, they can also easily take double their power if not more in the right box, and sound a bit better.

and its not, so it wouldnt work.