audiofanaticz

x2 its not a virus :01nocomment8so:

It dont do nothing but say horah! when the timer reaches zero. go and set your computer clock forward so then you dont gotta wait for the timer! :01nocomment8so: :01nocomment8so:

If its just a standard red, white, and yellow rca component hook up then yes, a regular rca y cable should work just fine. After all its just a 2 wire rca cord, they are all pretty much the same. The most that can happen is that it wont work and youll be out $3 for the splitter you bought.

Ha, I know theres another thread floating around someplace bout this. But Im in need of mobsters on myspace! Myspace Facebook But I dont get on facebook much, dont really care for the plan looking pages.

Thank you sir!! Your answer goes along with what the guy at the appliance repair place told me. When I sparked the thermal sensor I was just in there whacking shit with a screwdriver ( i figured it works when your starter on a car takes a shit). Lol Buying a new dryer is not in the plans when that is money that can be spend on the stereo ( i got my priorities straight)... I tested the thermostats per the instrustions I got from the one site, and it checks out straight. So it was a $31.XX fix with tax, and no labor charge because I did it myself with the help of the SMD forums Just a few pics. My mommys weiner dog, but he is dieing too! He is just a puppy a few months old, I guess there is something that happens to a lot of them when they are born that the liver gets bypassed and he is getting no protein or anything. The surgury costs about $500 to fix him, but my moms not gonna spend the money if its only a slight chance that the surgury will work So these are the old thermo coils I took out, This is what forevrbumping was describing it sounds like and what the guy at the store said. He said they dont deal with amana and that most newer dryers use 2 of them and there is no real way to test them, when they go out for repairs its the first thing they try because its a quick simple fix and chances are its the problem. He said if it was a thermostat that was bad the dryer wouldnt call for more heat and heat up the igniter. So once the new ones are in I plugged the dryer back in, and turned the gas back on and.... I cycled it a few times and sat there watching it for a good 20-30 minutes and it kept working properly so that was my problem.

This is info from www.partselect.com But it does not tell me what exactly to test. This is where my confusion is comming into play. This is my heating element, or at least simular in size and looks. Now if it is the thermal fuse I wouldnt think the flames would start up from time to time, if its like a normal fuse, once it blows you would get nothing at all. So I dont think this is my problem but I have no idea what this looks like on my dryer or where it is. The next thing is the thermostat according to this site it says to test each of them (so there must be 2), I think I see one on my heating element assembly (it has pink wires in the video I took, is this the thermostat, and where is the other one? lol here is the video In the video it fires up and works, but then it stopped after a few minutes when I checked on it again, and it was trying to ignite the flame but didnt

I have a Amana gas dryer. It use to work but its not no more. Its not heating up, thats my main problem i guess, so my cloths are not drying. I think I put a load of wash in it to dry yesturday and after it ran 5 cycles and my cloths are still damp and started to get that musty smell I pulled it apart. I dont know nothing about the components inside it. I found this one site and its walking me through a little bit but not enough to know what is wrong. I first started with the simple things, checked my duct work for exhaust, and pulled a hole crap load of lint out the ducts. I tried the dryer and still no luck. So I propped the dryer up on a empty laundry bottle and tried it, and it started working, my basement got really hot because the duct is off the back. When the panel was off I seen this probe heat up, which ignites the flame. I turned it off, put it all back together attached the duck work, tried it and no go. So I took the front panel back off again and tried it, nothing! So then I thought Id be a smart ass, and propped the thing back up on the laundry soap bottle, tried it and nothing. I think I know what the heating element is, but I dont think that is the problem with it. There has to be some sort of switch or thermostat that is not working that is not allowing the gas to come out and heat the dryer up. Ill grab a quick video.

heh I just learned something new, but that magnifies the whole damn screen. I dont need my glasses to read it any more!! ha f11 just hides all the mumbo jumbo on the browser so that you just see the webpage, doesnt enlarge anything.

Im sure there is something in options to change font size. If your after a bigger viewable page press f11 in firefox, think it works in IE too So now you can change her a cups to double d's by a push of a button :01nocomment8so: Vista is a great program, only draw back I have with it is its not too compatable with gaming unless you got a really up to date pc, thats why I dual boot

steve you got a pm reguarding the shirts or this site and other stuff.

So did you get everything straightend out from the problems you where having in the other post? Are you running the amps strapped right now, and if so what was the problem that was preventing them to be strapped before? Im not sure on the sundowns, but when you strap most amps, your slave amp needs 0 gain or anything else done to the settings except for fine tuning and phase if needed when strapping sundowns. We all already know the btls are beasts. Glad to hear everything is beating good for you now. Now where the videos? :hairtrick: :hairtrick:

<3

Lol I think you need to change your team name bro. You maybe inflicting on some copyright laws. PS: Im starting a Team steve meade designs, if anyone wants to join just check out my site www.stevemeadedesigns.com Leave me feedback on my tahoe, and my hoopty that Im building :01nocomment8so:

Like i said, i dont know what model number the amp is, dont think you listed it. But look at this one http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8514_K...+KAC-7203.html# click the picture to enlarge http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures.php?id=8514 Its the 2nd picture from the bottom, its a top view of the amp with the cover off, and it says operation mode, mono stereo. flip the switch when you bridge it.

Yea, only some cheaper amps, or lower model amps from trustworthy companies have it. Its usally just a push button or a 2 way selectable switch. Or like i said to bridge that amp it might be a little different, but usally its the cheaper companys that do it differently too bro.

offtopic, but is that a tattoo Jeff? if so that is a crazy tat, and very much dedication to the sport man! Props!! Got a larger picture of it?

sounds like the other posters covered it already. You have to do what ducttape said to run the amp at a safe ohm load. If you just bridged the amp and hooked it up, and thats when you fried the fuse, you most likely fried the powersupply on the amp too since it can not handle the needed current draw at 1 ohm. Also another thing you can check is did you properly bridge the amp. Some amps, not all amps need to be bridged differently. Some are left positive right negative to bridge, and others are left negative and right positive, which is the complete oppisite. Did you look at the amp and see if there is a mono/stereo switch that needs to be switched to run it bridged? Some amps have that too.

I was tempting to try it, it does look like opera like eric said, but I just glanced at the picture. I tried opera and didnt care for it except for the thumbnails of your fav sites, like the chrome. Im sure its a great program, I love my gmail accounts and the google browser so chrome has to be good. But right now with my addins that i run on firefox 3 and the way I got it configed I dont think I will be making a perminate switch anytime soon, tho I may try it.

That is your best and cheapest bet. Your going to have to wire hunt and find which wires goto what speaker, and take the input wires to the amp and connect them directly to the output wires. It maybe a pain, but you could find wiring diagrams for your car on directedelectronics.com most likely. Or as I said you maybe able to find a oem intergration kit to use with your car, but may have to search a little bit. Your best bet would be calling around audio shops because if they do make the kit they will know for sure which one you need. These intergration kits can run from $20 to $100 however. But the really expensive kits are those fore vehicles that have things like onstar and such. Just make sure that if you are going to bypass the amp with no kit to either: A) cut the plugs off the wires with enough room to re attach the plugs incase you want to go back to factory if you sell the car or anything like that. or use scotch locks on the wires this way you dont have to cut or splice into the factory wires, and going back to factory makes it really easy. Scotchlocks can be found really cheap at most hardware and auto part stores. I believe 3M makes the best ones IMO They are simple to use, they go over the wire, then you slide the new wire that you are wanting to splice into the existing wire, and push a metal spade down that pokes a hole through both wires making a solid tight connection. Just remember to unplug the wiring harness's from the stock amp!

x2 Its called like a pimp.. LOL One version of the song has the pacman thing in the background. I like that one the best!!! Altho that maybe the origional.

are any of the phones unlocked and able to be used on other networks?

Wow this site is slow right now, damn meade with hot topless hairtricks.. If its a infinity sound system, chances are it is amplified by the factory which you already stated is true. Which means there is no amp in the stock headunit. When you put a after market headunit/cd player in your car, your having a second amp so to say from the aftermarket cd player. The cd player is sending a clipped signal to the stock infinity amp causing its distortion. There are kits made to bypass the stock amp by pheripheral or pac Im sure, or you can rewire all speakers off your headunit and bypass the stock amp by yourself. No matter what type of crossovers you buy, it will still distort because your amping a low signal input signal on your stock amp, making the stock amp play at close to or max volume, then when you turn the new headunit up, your just clipping the piss out of it and causing the distortion. The stock wires that go from the stock headunit to the stock amp hardly have enough power to power a speaker until it passes through the amp.

i got it. :01nocomment8so:

no, I finally got working amps.. haha but yeah i guess thats getting loud. Thanks bro!

Nice, is this the first double can trick done on tape?? Soon assman is gonna step in with a whole window full of cans floating lol