audiofanaticz

how is $350 expensive, when it will most likely outperform 2 or even 3 stock alternators. Not to mention you would have to pay for a expensive bracket to fit 2 alternators on it which start at $300 alone, or fab one up yourself which will cost you a lot of time. 1 of my alternators alone sells for $1149, while my other 2 alternators on the same truck sell for $675, plus an additional $290 for the bracket to mount all 3 alternators. $350 seems rather cheap after totaling up almost $3grand worth of alternators and bracket in my truck... This is a hobby, fun hobbies are never cheap!

thats a good idea, im shocked no tv network ever thought of that... Just today for example i was watching a old home improvement on tbs, and it was the christmas episode... not even close to christmas but they playing it.. LOL

I was going to sing a song similar to the theme song, but moving on down instead of up. Figured it was too soon But yea, I still watch episodes of the show when ever I see it on Nick @ Nite or MeTV. Great show that was pretty controversial for its time like All in the family. Wish one day they would bring back some classic sitcoms like these again!

ROFLMA He will have to call a buddy of his!! But seriously, to get the autographs checked to see if they are authentic, it costs about 50-80 per piece of product, you ship them out to the company, they check it within 4-6 weeks and if its legit they ship it back with a seal of authenticity. kinda a pain :/

those components are looking really nice. the F logo is sexy, now I can see why it took so many damn hours for embroidering on it!

a extra $7-10 bucks is not going to make you go bankrupt to get some decent wood.. i would say box looks good, but I just cant due to the particle board...

Either have a lot of people... However Pioneer is more prone to this issue than other manufactures, and it is caused from people hot swapping rca cords.

Alternator whine is usually caused by 1 of 3 things. A bad ground someplace along the stereo. Shorted out RCA preouts on Pioneers when the pico fuse blows because people hotswap rca cords (meaning they unplug and plug rca's in and out of the radio or amp with the stereo turned on and they short the rca out by grounding out the center positive pin of the rca cable. RCA cords are ran too close to a high current power cable (such as the power wire for your amps). A ground loop isolator is only a band aid to the problem and limits the noise a little because the preout voltage from the headunit is being decreased by the ground loop isolator making the whine not as loud, but in return making your speakers not as loud from whatever amp the isolator is used on due to the reduced rca preout voltage. So you than have to turn the amp gain higher only to have the whine just as loud as it was before. Things to try to fix your problem are: Make sure your RCA cords are not crossing the path of your power wires anywhere, always run power/ground wires down the oppisite side of the vehicle as the RCA cords. Most the time rca cords usually pass close by your power wires in your amp rack or whatever your method is to mount the amp(s). Make sure all your amplfier grounds are good and tight, grounded to the vehicles frame or strong thick body panel with the paint removed and the ring terminal is secured with a bolt and nut. You can also trying to reground your headunit with a better ground and not use the vehicles factory ground in the oem radio harness ( make sure to test if this fixed the issue, if not and the whine is still there move onto the next step while your radio is pulled out). Ground the outer rca jackets on the back of the headunit (especially if its a pioneer, but Ive seen the issue on alpines too). Like this or you can take your radio apart and resolder the blown pico fuse if your good with small electronics.

Not a damn thing you can do, unless you have hard evidence that your employer is doing this and will admit it on camera (while they know they are being recorded. Otherwise it will be illegal evidence), or some sort of signed statement. Or they will just admit it in court. Chances are they wont, maybe in a perfect world but this world is far from perfect.. So unless you have thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars to blow on paying lawyers to sue the company tell them to fuck off and knock your boss, human resources, managers, owners out cold on the floor and move on.

The coils are fine. Often times your multimeter has resistance in the leads, so you usually got to test the multimeter leads by touching them together and than subtract that number from the voice coils when you test each one on the woofer. Just because a speaker says dual 2 ohm, or quad 4 ohm, or whatever ohm, does not mean it is going to be dead nuts 2 or 4 ohm. Many manufactures round to the closest full or half number. (Ie 1.4 ohms would be rounded up to 1.5ohms, or 1.7 ohms would be rounded up to 2ohms). The only time you need to worry is if the woofer says lets say quad 2 ohm voice coils, and each of the 4 voice coils read something like 4ohms, or 18 ohms or something higher than what they are to be than more than likely you have a bad voicecoil that still kind of works, but is ready to blow. Or you could also have a bad connection on the tinsel leads somewhere. Your woofer is fine.

Its getting to be a decent bit of strain on a tiny alternator. id ditch the little kinetik you have in the back for sure once you put the xp3000s in the vehicle.

i would have deleted the other guys post if I was a mod lol guess thats why im not! I was going to, but than thought it be too far, so than I was going to edit it, but didnt want to be abusing mod powers. LOL

Oh and PS Sorry Im not a sucker and believe every video/picture, or statements read or typed on the internet... I ask questions when Im not sure, or question others when something does not seem right. That is why I know a decent bit, and the only way you will learn. Otherwise your just going to be like every other joe blow that is a MECP certified bestbuy installer and think your something great, only to log-on to the smd forums and ask how to tune a ported box...... Seriously??? "cough dereleak cough"

Im saying that the audiocontrol is not as accurate as a termlab, no matter if its calibrated or not, or it just got calibrated.... If it is to be so accurate as the termlab, how can the AC meter read 0.1db louder at on time, than be 0.6db louder, only than to be reading the exact same as the termlab to be followed up by being 0.5db louder, and than being 0.1db quieter than the termlab... Your own video shows the proof of how un-consistent the audiocontrol meter is (with the spl 190 sensor, and is even worse with the 170 sensor)... and even if this meter is 100%calibrated and nothing was done to either meter before the video was taken, it does not apply for all other audiocontrol meters being used at shops, or unsanctioned events. Its not that hard of a concept..

That end result is using a termlab to calibrate it.. Otherwise I dont see it being too close to a termlab just because how easily the dials on the audio control turn, and if they move the tiniest bit your audiocontrol is reading a completely different score. There is a reason that they are no longer being used for sanctioned competition events in the world no more, because they are full of flaws, judges being accused of cheating. Sure the meter was out before the Termlab came into existence, but once it was invented many organizations switched for a unbiased meter. There is an audio shop about 30minutes away from me in another town, a kid claim that his system the shop built him is 151db (they metered it for him to prove this to their customer), with a single 10inch jl audio w0 under the rear seats in a extended cab pickup using a prefab box and like a 300 watt jl amp. He talked so much shit at the comp only for him to do a whole 129db on a termlab at the competition. But I guess thats just how accurate the audiocontrol meter is right??? It has nothing to do with turning up the mic sensitivity to make the meter read a higher number to fool the customer into having a loud system....

There is nothing to gain... but if you are claiming that the $2100 audiocontrol setup is on par with the $650 termlab, why would you need to have 2 different meters? kind of point less isnt it? Especially when the Termlab is the officical meter for Usaci, Midwest SPL, MECA, Iasca, DB Drag, Emma, NASA, IDBL, Bassrace, and so many more. And I can guarentee that he had to do some sort of testing or tuning to the Audiocontrol meter to make it read the same as the termlab (however it would not of been recorded in the video, especially if your trying to prove that it is just as accurate as the termlab).

So your saying, you never adjusted the 2 sensitivity knobs on the front of the meter since it was sent back after being calibrated from audiocontrol and can assure that they didnt move during the product being shipped or when you packed it up in your car to go out testing??? I find that very hard to believe.... And for the sake of argument lets look at the "BoomStick" that can be bought for $20 at walmart. Lets take the boom stick and than test with that, and than retest with a termlab and adjust the K-Factor in the settings and set it really low instead of the default 178.9db setting it is at. Once we have the Termlab reading the same number as the cheap boomstick I can than go around saying that the boomstick is as accurate as the Termlab????? even tho I had to adjust the one meter to read the same score The good thing about the termlab is that the K Factor settings are software controlled settings that can not accidently be bumped and thrown off and create false readings like a judge could do at a competition and turn up or down the sensitivity knob for competitors that he likes or hates to make people win and loose. On a termlab when running a competition it will not give you access to those K Factor settings to give some the unfair advantage.

and here is where I call BULLSHIT!! The audiocontrol 170 or 190 will never be as accurate as a termlab.. Chances are, they tweeked the audiocontrol to match the reading of termlab within that 0.1db At that point than what good is the audiocontrol meter when you have to calibrate it using another measuring form such as the termlab?? By no means is the Audiocontrol a cheaper alternative to a termlab either. The SPL-190 sensor alone costs $549. http://pacificstereo...4_a_7cSPL_d_190 and that is not including the actual rta meter that the sensor plugs into.. Than you factor in the $1549 for the RTA http://www.sonicelec...ac=1&zmap=52143 You have $2100 invested into a meter that has to be calibrated with a termlab that only costs $650 new with 1 sensor or $850 new with 2 sensors. So now who was it in this thread that says Wayne Harris is just after raping people on the price.....? That is so true because a inferior meter costs over 3times more as the Termlab which is used for every sanctioned event in the USA and other countries as well as NASA. But yes... the Termlab is over priced.... hahahaa So anyways. Back to the Audiocontrol meter.. Sure people show it being as accurate of the Termlab with in 0.1db, but once you goto move the audiocontrol unit, or put it in its case for storage, or whatever your doing with it and if you just move the big Sensitivity or the calibrate knob on the front of that audiocontrol meter just a cunt hair of a turn you are no longer as accurate as the termlab...... So while people test it side by side with the termlab they can easily dial the thing in, than start making a video and showing you how good / bad it is, but just remember your not seeing anything that was done to either meter before or after the camera goes on.. Same goes for the SPL-Labs thing too.. ... Edit for the big knobs on the front of the audiocontrol that will severly alter its reading just by barley turning any of them... Just like a Gain on an amplifier, the slightest touch can make the amp produce more output (ac voltage) even tho it looks like the knob was never moved..

Congrats, you just got banned! I warned you on 2 sites now, and you are posting again, just like your past thread I shut down... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147142-ofc-0-gauge-wire/ You are selling massive amounts of wire and need to have vendor status to do so since you are acting as a online store with all your ebay auctions selling rolls on rolls on rolls of wire.. Adios

I blame a slow host server lol jk

FIRST lolz

adios

nice! Still need me one of those VU meters, but I want the bigger narrower prototype Ray has because it will fit where I want to put it "i think". Also need a new volt meter cuz my stinger is crapping out, and a new hat too. Damn this gets expensive quick!! LoL

teach me your skills

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/146856-bringing-this-section-back-from-the-dead-with-some-bigpimpin91-zips/