audiofanaticz

He already has the carbon fiber caps on them.

Click this link. ->> https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154eb6307a15603/shopdata/0070_Tech/0070_Speakers/product_overview.shopscript Then go and click the model subwoofer(s) you are wanting to know the options about. So if it was a BTL you would click this page here. ->> https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154eb6307a15603/shopdata/0070_Tech/0070_Speakers/0010_Tech.BTL/product_overview.shopscript

No reason for it to become a pissing match, for the main reason Jacob is a common person behind each company. While the SA is Sundown and Jacob, the Obsidian Audio is a joint company between Jacob and Nick from Stereo Integrity (SI), and from what I know Jacob has done a good bit of the designing and r&d for Skar Audio which is a partner company owned by Andrew and Kevin. All woofers are very close in spec and are all 600wrms drivers with 2.5 inch voice coils. The SA does offer a higher sensitivity over the OA and Skar, as well as a slightly higher BL. Both the SA and Skar woofer use a reinforcement ring around the triple joint I know for sure, and Im pretty sure the OA is the same. I know that the Sundown SPL coils can be used in the OA subs also. I only have experience with the SA series woofers, also have 2 friends with the OA woofers. Never heard or had hands on experience with the skar however. Between all 3 woofers I feel the SA is the stronger woofer. But thats just my opinion.

hahahaha bro!!! FTW!!!! I still laugh everytime you say that.

FUCK MAZDA2284. he is a liar and called me a theif, and said I stole his crappy pioneer subs......

LOL Im not going to click that link since I know they are the selenium st350s if Dj made the post FTW

Not lvl5s but some lvl4xl 10s I reconed for a guy. I cant remember their impedance but they where either dual .7s or dual 1s because I had to series them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCh7HNU3aLQ

its not that they are not good, they are just a band-aid to a stereo. You are only limited to certain frequencies that will pass thru them, where as with an active crossover you can fine tune the sound and get a nicer crisp warm sound from your speakers. You have way more control. with bassblockers, you just get what you get without any way to shape the sound to your desired liking. edit: as for passive crossovers (crossover networks that come with component sets typically) they allow the user to shape the sound a little more for their liking. Say if the tweeter is to "bright" and harsh on the ears, most quality crossovers will offer some sort of jumpers inside and you can move the pins to change some settings to make the tweeters not as harsh sounding. As well some of the crossovers allow you to "bi-amp" the crossovers meaning putting 2 amplifire channels into the one crossover (1 channel for the midrange speaker, and 1 channel for the tweeter), but this is usually only on the higher cost components. But back to the bass blockers. They are a inefficient way to cross over the speakers. All your buying is a Resistor in some sort of heat shrink tubing with a logo on it and 2 pieces of wire coming out it. These are the the same kind of resistors you find on 2way and 3way coaxle style speakers. While the resistors do work to crossover a speaker they take power away from the speaker, and also can blow the resistor if you send them too much power. If bassblockers where the correct way to crossover a speaker/tweeter, than the component crossover networks would not be so much more advanced than just a simple resistor.

which one of those is yours....hmmmmmm All of them Lol I cant zoom in enough to read the labels Anyhow tracking info says she will be here friday

TTT Also just ordered mine!

well whoever told you that is wrong... since those tweeters will not pick up until 5k hz, so 2k or even up to 4k is still damaging to them. You need to have them crossed over at 5k hz and up or else they will very easily go POOOF! Every tweeter is different and will play different frequencies, some tweeters can play 1500-2000hz and up while others cant. Which is why I asked what tweeters you are trying to cross over, so we can get you the correct bass-blockers needed so the tweeters do not blow

Going active is expensive. lol You need amps to run the speakers from, then a processor of some sort, like the rockford fosgate 360.2 or 360.3,Alpine Imprint, Audison Bit1 or bit10, and so many more other brands. but it gets expensive! If you check the specs of the tweeters you have, you will see the frequency response for the tweeters are 5,000 Hz - 22,000 Hz, and the bass blockers you linked only block 2800hz and lower at 4 ohms. Meaning there will be a big gap of frequency that can still get thru and damage the tweeters since the tweeters response is only 5000hz and up. you would want to go with these bassblockers to protect the tweeters the best. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24358_PAC-BB-6PR-Black.html

they will work. an actual passive crossover is better, but active crossover is even better yet. but for just a band aid they will work okay. What tweeters are you using tho? Depending on the brand/model tweeter they may need a different crossover point. These filters you are looking at will only block frequencies below 2800hz if your tweeters are 4ohm, and 1400hz if your tweeters are 8ohms. Again depending on the brand/model of the tweeter 1400hz may not be a high enough frequancy and could still damage the tweeters since they may not be crossed over high enough.

oh looked like a blazer center console. LOL grandprix still gm, still most likely make the same style dash kit for it. and with this style dash kit it puts the radio all the way towards the top of the opening and the eq at the bottom. The factory radio is a lot larger then the aftermarket headunit and EQ so you diffidently have the room in there!

looks like that is a blazer. they should make a different style dash kit that has a space for a eq (they also have ones with a pocket under the radio which you could also get and cut it out bigger for a eq). I have a tahoe, and this is the din and a half dash kit for a radio and eq without needing any mods. Pretty sure one is made for the blazer too!

yes, you got my number so when I get some spare time I will hit you up and set the amp with my digital multimeter for the time being until I finally order a DD-1

Amp works flawless. Like I said, its a friend and team mates amp, he no longer has his stereo truck no more, bought a new 300 to roll around in. He has 2, I bought one for a friend, and he is driving over a hour to sell the other too Jesse.

congrats steve!!!

The amps do well over 3500wrms....... Its sundown, its under rated... Yes they fuse at 300 amps, a 300 amp fuse will take well over 300 amps before it blows! Have you ever seen 350amp fuses sold? go find be a 350 amp car audio fuse. When you dont find one, you will realize why its fused at 300 amps. Video of his old truck the amps came out of, the truck is now gone and he bought a new car so the stereo is for sale. video from my channel with me recording. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKejoVshwC8 and a vid from his channel.

Im pretty sure this is my buddies amp, Nick and they are damn near flawless. Im buying one for a customer, and some other guy is also getting the other one today. I know he said some jesse kid, but he also said nathan. So im not sure who it is, but whoever also lives in sheboygan is getting it.

Im always down for a hoodie myself, may have to make too seperate orders then. LOL what are the banners going to be? i need something good for in my garage

Solo X woofers are a much larger diameter voice coil then a L7. Meaning there is no way to fit the Solo X coil in the magnet gap of a L7.

Gross volume is around 13.30 cubbed. Box is also under window line in a Jeep Cherokee. Net volume is only slightly bigger then sundown spec with all the 45s Im doing, but I wont give you the exact size

You can also get them with a 4 inch coil. Not sure on used prices. You would have to search several forums to see if people are selling them.. Usually The FI/AA stuff is not sold used to much because people that buy them love them, and never have a want or need to switch to something else. So even if you bought the Fi BL new the hd3 18 is $309-340 depending on what coil you get.. IMO it shouldnt be that hard to save $100-150 extra to get the Fi over the hd318.

Only throwing 1000-1500 watts to a BL or BTL is pointless. I dont see your logic. So throwing only 1000-1500 watts to a hd3 is not pointless then???? Especially when these subs can take 3000-4000 wrms daily, and I have tons of friends that use them under these conditions daily (Team DOA)