kingsuv

The suspension is super stiff, the triple joint it the weak point so it breaks there if to much excursion is going on, now if it is looser, the suspension there is more give at the triple joint. Ok, so whats the context? Is it a bad design of product, or bad box design? One of these 2 can be controlled by the purchaser. Excursion is easily changed in the box design. I do understand in YOUR application, having a loose sub helped its longevity. HOWEVER, it's not always the case. Case n point: DC98HOE system was at its loudest just as the subs became loose. Which was about a day before they would blow. Out of the box play hard nor breaking them in @20z tone did anything to change this. The sooner he got to the loose part, the sooner he was ordering recones. Does this mean the sub was to blame? Nope, it has and will always have to do with box design. People, not product dictate the ends results in equipment

Looking good.

I really don't see how a triple joint is any better after a break in then fresh out of the box. It's not like the glue has to dry over the next 2 weeks. Nor does the spider have some built in memory you have to train to retain its shape. Breaking the triple joint is more to do with the box it's in, not how it was built. Sub companies want you to break in a sub for one reason. Buffer from a customer doing something stupid out of the box. Plain and simple. When people buy a new sub, chances are they have never dealt with that product before. So the likeliness you actually know its limitations out of the box is slim to none. If a sub manufacture asks you to break in a sub, it's because they want you to learn the limits of the product over the course of time, not to drop it in a box and throw the hammer down on it. People need to learn their products in the system as a whole and what the limits are, not believe that the product will somehow magically get stronger if you be nice with it at the start. It's a sub, you don't need to take it out to dinner and a movie first. take it no tell motel and give it a good pounding. Just don't expect to stick it in the pole piece if it wasn't designed to take it

If a spider is going to rip, then it will rip regardless of how you play it before it rips. If a spider rips, or you tear a surround, or you bust a triple joint, or toast a tinsel lead, it is because YOU were doing something YOU weren't supposed to. OR something the sub wasn't designed to do. Subs are stupid. they do what you want them to. If you have them do something stupid, then bad results may follow.

What exactly do you think the benefit is to a looser sub? It's not like an engine where you want all the parts to heat up and cool down at the same rate.

Just say no to sub-woofer break in.

2 layers. And no matter what, yer shit will fall apart. Ray needs a new set of barn doors. his 58 might be leaking out the back

If I remember right. We gained a couple tenths taking it off, then more then a few tenths doing deadner on the roof.

It will be difficult to set your xover settings based off an amp. Even with a CC-1, you are going to be limited in setting control as most amps have less then helpful xovers to begin with. I would open up the xover settings on the amp and let the deck control your points. Get a good clean signal, set your balance, then work on some points that sound good to YOUR ear.

Going to be a nice cool day at the show.

Yes Sir.

Just means we can find a spot to eat and drink a little early

I run a Butler audio TBD 575 to mine. Its rated at 75 @ 4ohm. So on an 8 ohm driver, I'm easily seeing half of that at most. For my taste, the higher band is, the more they become harsh. They are a real efficient driver and can quickly become over powering to the system as a whole if not band passed. Even with as little power I have going to them, I have no issues with them keeping up with the spl side of the system

I have mine passed from 200hz to 3.5k on a 30db slope. My personal experience is when you get out of that range, they have some harsh peaks and valleys to correct in the bandwidth

IB setups do have their place. You see them more in SQ setups then anything else these days mostly because of the expected output for the system. If your buddy wants a be slamming down the street, then a IB setup is not for him.

Amp is out for delivery

While efficiency is a nice number to look at, it isn't then hard line end all to picking a driver. While you may have good results swapping drivers, i would suggest looking at a detail comparison of the 2. Also keep in mind, if you are replacing a bad one, to replace them as pairs. This will save you the headache later

I wouldn't let the BS that sometimes rises on the business side of it reflect the fun had at shows. In all reality, none of this comes up face to face. If at any time you want to check on your points, then check over on Termpro. As it looks now, the results haven't been posted for the Lake County show. http://www.termpro.com/asp/officialevent.asp?EventID=12716&Method=1 Keep an eye out and give it a little for the results to show up. If after another few weeks they are still not posted, then contact the judge hosting the show. If that doesn't get results, then contact the org directly. For the most part, results can take a bit to be posted.

Shit talking behind peoples back is nothing new. Quite a few people do it and many more have over the years. You either deal with it, confront it, or just step back out of it all together. I myself got tired of what I heard come back around so I have found other things to do with my weekends. Hiding behind a fake screen name doesn't resolves any issues. All it does is stir the pot and creates yet another outlet to talk shit. If anyone wants to discuss the issues, and I'm sure if people are unhappy, then things need to be addressed, then it should be handled in a professorial setting. I for one would like to see peoples concerns addressed and resolved in a well spoken manner as this HOBBY used to be fun.

Call chiner, haz dem chip parts. Hope fer best.

Nice, I have a similar console in my house. even have a few reels for it

Just about all the major tint brands also carry a security film on their commercial side. Llumar, 3M Solar guard etc. He will have a tough time finding a shop that carries anything in stock and will most likely have to buy a roll for them to do the job. Find a commercial glass shop and see if someone there wants to do a little side work.

If you want a security film, just go to a shop and have them do it. Ordering a product you know nothing about may or may not protect you. I have seen companies call film a security tint and have it be nothing more then a over priced tint job. Security film is much thicker and can be a pain to install. I have 9 mil film on all my trucks. I have seen how well even a 4 mil product works. However, if applied incorrectly, it will not matter how thick it is. If a shop doesn't handle that type of product, then look for a commercial glass shop, they will have worked with it often. I have used it plenty of times for storefronts to keep people from breaking into gamestops

A Table saw is useful only when you have a good size table and rip fence attached to it. To be honest, a rip guide with your saw would be a better investment. If you have the room to build a nice outfeed table around the saw, then they are very handy. My table is 5' x 10' and i use a 10" crap ass table saw in it with a very nice fence attached.

Hands down the coolest product I have tried in a long time. I would suggest thin coats so it dries more consistent. I got a little excited and used more at one time then I should have and it took a little longer then expected to dry between coats.