Tarball

congrats! Well deserved.

My 1999 Denali is Leaf Springs in the rear and Torsion Bars up front. You could stiffen the rear springs and drop the front to level out the ride. Adjusting ride height on torsion bars is stupid simple! Edited for accuracy. **Looks like 2001 is Coil spring in the rear.

Mine should help a bit I have a large amount of Panamanian friends/family on FB.

done

I agree that you should ideally get both. Maybe get the Alt first and Big 3 then add batts as needed and as you can afford. The thing is you wany to BOTH sit and demo AND drive around FULL TILT. Over time (and probably not much) you will end up running your amps at low voltage, shortening the life of your batts and burning up your poor little alt.

What they've already said, step downs is the way to go since you are already vested in 16v batts.

May you misunderstand what I mean. Or perhaps its something I dont understand. Take a 16/12v battery for example. Car running charging through the 16v post around 18v. What is the 12v side putting out? 12v or 14ish ?

As the title says. I've been doing some research on 16v electrical systems as I am designing my system. Currently I will be going with alt set to charge 16v battery bank and step downs to the vehicles electrical system. I know there are 16/12v batteries (with the dual ++ terminal) to feed the 12v to the cars electric. My question is why not a 16/14v battery since the vehicles electrical system really wants to see 14.x volts while running. From the designing side of things it seems like a no-brainer and there should be a product available for this. I'm already invested in Step-Downs for my application but someone help me to understand why the 16/12v battery exists and why 16/14v does not. 16/14 just seems more practical. Discuss... edited for spelling errors.

The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. I assume you are all the wiser after asking this question...no?

What is the DB output at these various points? That is what you really want to know to answer the outpout gain question. This is intersting data though and can probably more accurately speak to the effiencies of sealed vs ported at the various freqs.

Liked

This

What type of battery are you running and did you charge it with a "plug in the wall" battery charger while you replaced the alternator?

or you could just have bad 4ga wire.

This wire upgrade from 8 ga to 4 ga was this power to the amp or the speaker wires from Amp to Sub ? this was a upgrade for the battery to amp wires Have you already done big3? Do you notice its not hitting as hard at low levels also, or just hi volume levels? How bad is the voltage drop ? Since you have already checked your ground you may have just opened a bottleneck and now you are at the next weakest point maybe. And remember, gains is not a volume control the gain should be set so as not to clip.

This wire upgrade from 8 ga to 4 ga was this power to the amp or the speaker wires from Amp to Sub ?

This is for an 18" sub though. Should be "OK". Build it and crank it..then let us know if you blow anything up! /Cheers ***Edited for typo.

What do you have your Subsonic (infrasonic) filter set to ?

When I shipped out 20 of the D1600's, they weigh 50lbs each, and I used boxes that were a little bigger than the batts themselves, and stuffed them with Newspaper balled up... Put it on the bottom, so it was about 2 inches thick after being smashed down, and then stuffed the sides and top, taped up like mofo and all was great... I got one of these batteries and it arrived fine. just don't get stingy on the news paper and it'll be good. And don't use a box that's too big or the paper will just displace. /Cheers

is this a 12" 15" or 18" sub ?

This could be a potential area to look into.

what is your budget ?

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you should be fine with 3kRMS and the BEST (amps at idle) alt you can get. Also, don't get cheap powerwire. But you wont be drawing peak amps all the time unless you plan on driing around with a 30hz test tone playing full tilt.