IBleedMusick

Good shit congrats Steve!!! Another win for the Meade & D'Amore team.

Nice damn it's always cool to see what people in different parts of the country do to their whips.

If price isn't an issue why not get some Stinger or KnuKonceptz wire I have heard good and bad things about powerwerx but like with anything else some people like it some don't. You can get the Stinger for a really good price on darvex.com.

LMAO sounds like fun there is a spot that I go to almost every week call the Filling Station and they have a few burgers that will scare the out of you there's the Luther (1lb of bee, onions, bacon and cheese in between two krispy kreme donuts) and then theres Adam's 18 Wheeler (9 burger patties, 9 slices of cheese, 9 buns) neither of which are easy to down. I tackled the luther but haven't taken a shot at Adam's 18 yet. but glad to see you made it out alive I always end up in a food coma.

Anything from Directed whether it be Viper or Clifford will work just make sure it's installed right. The problem I have seen a lot are bad installs when it comes to alarms giving problems but the Viper 5901 is a badass alarm and most of my customers walk in asking for a viper or clifford every once in awhile I get the cheapskate asking for the $99 alarm we have on a banner in the shop but I always try and school people on the fact that you shouldn't go cheap when it comes to your car do it right or don't do it at all.

My Mother absolutely hates Car Audio but that's because it's not only my Fathers hobby but his job as well so he does it 24/7. My Step-Father had a crazy system when I first met him but the car got stolen and he didn't do anything to his Charger. I been in it all my life and like Pimpn said I told my ol' girl straight up this is a hobby a very good hobby and I get to learn a lot about cars, electricals, and sound very big learning process in car audio it's not all about bass there is a thought process behind it all that people forget. If I were you I would break it down for them like I did my mom and tell them what really goes into it. Plenty of times I have had sleepless nights working on my own system but there are also times where I have made more money in a week on doing clients systems than I make on my day job in a year. Consider how you use it and show them the love you put into it. Car Audio is not like video games you can't just put it down people dumb it down like you go to best buy and get some subs and an amp and call it a day...I say in the words of David Spates WRONG WRONG. A lot involved in this hobby its your job to spread knowledge to those who don't know.

IBLEEDMUSICK Florida 33131/33032 Miami-Dade/Broward Gas Money & A Demo or Come to me for FREE I have the DD-1

Dammit okay gotta start saving to grab the CC-1 I mean it would only compliment my DD-1 because this thing is a big hit near me after I did the first system people went nuts at more power and no distortion.

This is not true I've been installing at a flea market since I was 13. Well I was being taught when I was 13 . Been doing it since. And I'm now 19 and still installing there every weekend. And I use a dd-1 . I have to disagree my dad worked at a shop in the Flea and the shit they sold up their was ridiculous. Not only was it cheap but they sold it like it was top of the line. I have seen guys walk in there and spend money on a bunch of equipment just to get a vibrating trunk and a whole lot of bass with no mids and highs. Not to mention the advise given, corners cut and used shit sold as new. Dude was right though I have seen them go to their own cars and rip equipment out just to make that sell. It's a different world at the Flea Market most of the people that go there really don't know anything about car audio all they want is bass and don't care how it happens. A lot of Budget brands get sold as high end over there and its really funny to me. This is not to say you can't go and get a good system installed you just have to be extra careful and check everything you're buying. Know what you're getting into before you walk in the door.

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I will take that crossover off your hands right now

i already have both them units witch are for sale also. but what else you guys have? Still got the AVIC F900 you said you also had for sale?

Liked it...good luck

Congrats Steve

Thanks will do as soon as I get everything installed I will take pics and post them.

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo moment damn now I get it. Thanks a lot now I can proceed with my damn build going to go and pick a junction box from AutoZone tomorrow ordered my relay from darvex.com and got some rocker switches from Kawamall.com so I'm set for this part of the install thanks again for your help much appreciated.

I have to take a look and see if I have any extra slots and okay so from the relay to the junction there should be a 10a fuse and from the junction to the remote turn on's there should be 10a fuses as well for the amps? and I can throw on another 10a for all of the accessories? and yes I am running 14 gauge to the trunk as well

Not sure I followed everything you wrote. 14ga is plenty for a remote turn-on (assuming that you're using it to only switch items on and not power anything). Remote turn-on leads should already be fused from the Headunit. Always use RMS ratings, max numbers can be highly exaggerated and lead to the wrong size fuse. Do the amps already have fuses? If not, their manuals should state what to fuse them at. Amps aren't 100% efficient so they will input more power then they output. Therefore you have to take that into consideration when fusing. Do you have a multimeter that can measure current? You could use that to measure how much current the LED strips are pulling. Depending on how many you're running, LEDs use very little current so without knowing what you have, a 5a fuse is probably fine. Where is this relay sourcing its power from? A distribution block in the trunk or a seperate power wire from the battery? This is strictly for the turn on all of my power wire is fused correctly. I just needed to know if I need to fuse the turn on lead from the junction box to the amp turn on's. I am running the relay from the 12v wire that would power my head unit so power is only there when I am actually using the radio. So lets clear this up I need to turn on my 3 amps, power 8 led strips and not have my car electricals go crazy in the process. I order the relay, junction box and 14 gauge fuse holders. Now What?

Thanks for the explanation so that I understand you correctly I am running 14 gauge remote wire for the amp turn on's should I do my math using the MAX on the amp or the RMS if I use the max the would be 900w/13.8v = 65amps do I get a 60 or 70 amp fuse mids/highs. 1000w/13.8v = 73amps do I get a 70 or an 80 amp fuse. Did I do that correctly? As far as the lights go how do I determine the power rating the trunk lights were cheap led strips from ebay no info provided just says 12v led. I haven't gotten the ones for under the seat yet. My final question is how large should the fuse be from the #87 relay to my 12v source?

Actually I think I understand what you're saying I had a basic grasp of whats going on just wasn't completely sure my only question now is did you run fuses in between each accessory on the junction post and if so I know what size to get for the lights but how big should the fuse be for the amp turn ons?

done*

Thanks for the help I will order the stuff and post pics once I get the job

Nevermind about the junction box I found one on Amazon but all I need are instruction on how I need to hook this up for everything to work with no issues. Detailed instructions would be great I am pretty good about following directions I just need to get this all hooked up so I can continue my install as planned.