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CleanSierra

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Everything posted by CleanSierra

  1. Congrats on asking the same question in 5 different threads, 4 that weren't yours to begin with. Get a Sundown SAZ1500D used. If you don't know where to get one, I know someone that will part with his.
  2. I understand that you're upset spending $400 and not having a working product in your hands. I get that, really dude I do. Did you ever think to email the man that actually built the thing? That's all I'm getting at. Tony D makes himself VERY easily accessible and cares very much about you having a working product in your hands. Anyone that has had ANY interaction with him, knows this. A simple email/phone call and he would have taken a personal interest in YOUR problem. You saying that you doubt the guys making the tools probably don't give a shit about their products couldn't be further from reality.
  3. You have access to the internet? Maybe send an email to Tony D'Amore himself? D'Amore has a website, amazing right? I guess I can do some heavy lifting for you: http://www.damoreengineering.com/contactus.html
  4. Best place is here: wccaraudio.com P.S. Good up on taking a different route with this thread.
  5. The Stinger will fail, likely. I've seen many many, many failed Stinger volt meters. The whole purpose of this thread is to start shit and you know it. So I'll tune in to watch with popcorn.
  6. Try to download -7.5dB tone from SnowDrifter on this forum and see if that works out for you.
  7. No, I wouldn't say anything like "90%". Where do you get your music and what bit rate file do you choose to download. If the music is dirty, it's dirty. An amplifier can only amplify the signal it's given. Dirty in, dirty out. The more aggressive the overlap, the more pronounced the clipping.
  8. It's not the subs that are the issue. It's your signal. If you introduce music that is at all clipped or dirty, you can run info issues with that overlap. Also, don't judge life by a clip light on a bass knob. It's not necessarily accurate, many aren't.
  9. SnowDrifter has the tones available on the bottom of his signature if you want the -7.5dB tone.
  10. I thought those were only 250 or 300W subs. I think he increased the power handling on them because that's what I remember then being rated at before the Version 2. Two subs rated at 400W each on a 1000W amp should be fine. Sorry for my out of date knowledge on that specific sub.
  11. That's twice rated power. I wouldn't, but that's just me. I've seen a, couple of E series 15s take a Sundown 1500D all day though. So the risk is yours
  12. Not much more. They're a 2" coil, be reasonable.
  13. I think Missouri would be about as central as it gets. Columbia more specifically would be damn near center.
  14. Just kidding boss man. Respectable move, even though that turd is a waste of space.
  15. Jimm, the misconception that a bigger sub can get lower is just that, a misconception. The enclosure dictates how the subwoofer will perform. Choose your subwoofer based on the amount of airspace you can provide to it.
  16. Such terrible customer service...I mean can you believe it? On the real, Makes me know I'd be in good hands if I ever go to a Zv4 with custom softies. Keep up the good work guys
  17. The port along the box is my preferred box that you posted. Are you opposed to vertical port between the subs firing to the back? Out of those two though, the first one.
  18. They don't consider product comparisons within the same manufacturer as a vs. thread. The reason being is that the Vs. threads being out nuthuggers of company A vs company B and it's a shitshow. When it's all within the same company, it's less prone to happen. OP, I'd stick with the Xs. Twice the cone area. I'd bump the port area up though from 120" to like 160". Also, that [email protected] ohms would be a lot for those Zv4s. I know everyone and their cousin knows as guy that ran 2 NS-1s at .25 ohms to one sub, but this is the real world. I was in a Mazda3 with 2 Zv4 12s on a Skar 4500 @ .5 ohms and they got smelly quick.
  19. I just noticed in the title, the newer like where they are rated almost dead on rated power too, not over like the other models. My SAX100.4 is active capable and why I bought it. Pretty bulletproof too I think.
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