brownm3

Dont know if this really helps you but maybe think about the programming you like or plan to watch or if you prefer HD channels over standard and see which companies offer the best options for what you like. My only concern is a fast internet connection bc I rarely watch live tv anyways. I am always streaming nextflix and typically download the shows I like online and stream them through my tv.

Great explanation

If you have the money I would upgrade the alt but you should be fine with the stock alt and your planned setup. But if you plan to increase the wattage maybe it might be good to think about investing in a new alt. As for the capacitor I agree with everyone else and just go with batteries, kinetik and xs power are the popular choices. I am going with XS Power and there batteries provide the buyer with estimated power ranges. So if you system is 2500 - 3500 total watts they recommend a XS D3400. Kinetik batteries also has a power calculator that gives you suggestion on which of there batteries to purchase http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/powercalc.asp

Sounds like DC FTW.

Hahahhaaa

I would suggest charging it but if its an old battery and it low get a new one. There is some great stuff in this forum that explains how a cars electric system works and this might even help out https://www.dcpowerinc.com/articles/supply-and-demand-electrical and search this forum for more information: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/12-electrical-battery-alternators-wiring/

Welcome AQ??? Or is it to soon?

Aww I just read this last sentence of the OP's post. I thought the guy on fb was joking. But he actually entered that in a contest.

Look for sixdogs1 on youtube. He is currently in the rebuild of his system he is going with custom made tubes. I am sure its been done before him but that was the most recent I have seen of anyone doing them. Hey OP maybe you could reach out to sixdogs on youtube and ask for some tips. He goes through his entire build process on at high level so that might give you so good tips. Good luck with the build if thats the route u go. thanks! i sure will. seems very interesting here is the video for Sixdogs1 - Operation Big Bang http://www.youtube.com/user/sixdogs1#p/a/u/2/-l4mYVB9Eqg

Look for sixdogs1 on youtube. He is currently in the rebuild of his system he is going with custom made tubes. I am sure its been done before him but that was the most recent I have seen of anyone doing them. Hey OP maybe you could reach out to sixdogs on youtube and ask for some tips. He goes through his entire build process on at high level so that might give you so good tips. Good luck with the build if thats the route u go.

Haha Damn Chevy you were already on it. I immediately about to forward you this info from car audio classifieds when i saw this sale, haha.

Car audio classifieds may have some good deals http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/subwoofers-speakers/

Ok well that would make since because i recall he was feeding the subs a crazy amount of power . So basically you should be able to set you HU then sent the gain on your amps and once you plug in your bass knob to your amp you should be able to turn it up full tilt without distortion. Which makes sense to me because I thought that bass knob only turned you subs from full power to low. So when using the DD1 it would probably be best to unplug or turn the bass knob all the way up when setting your amps gain, correct or it doesn't really matter?

So you should put a fuse coming off of the front batt, then another fuse right before the batt bank and then another fuse between the batt bank to the amp? So 3 fuses total? Most people put a 300A fuse at either the front, back, or both sides but most people pick one or the other. I'll be fusing it closer to the rear battery. That's what I initially planned to do. I was putting a 300a fuse on the front batt then running that to the back. Then putting a 300a fuse from the back batt to the amp. So I will just stick with that.

So you should put a fuse coming off of the front batt, then another fuse right before the batt bank and then another fuse between the batt bank to the amp? So 3 fuses total?

Now thats a surf board.

Here is the video I was talking about: And at about the 5:20 mark is when he tells Tim about the bass knob.

Good question bc I was watching one of Steve’s videos when the DD1 was sent to a few people for testing and in his video he used the DD1 and even marked the guys bass knob to show where his “safe zone” was on his bass knob.

Yeah 12.8 is fine you would need to worry if you seeing 11's haha

I would think set everything flat, right?

If your bumping and it goes below 12 you need to look at your electrical system because something is missing and needs correction. Most amps tell you the recommended volts needed to achieve the rated watts. Amps would say something like at wired at 1ohm with 13.8v it produces 3,200 watts. Take that same amp at 1ohm but only feed it 12.6v will produce 1,530 watts. This is just an example but you are not getting your monies worth if you electrical cant keep up. Maybe the big 3 might help (not likely if you below 12v), new battery, buying additional batteries (xs power), new alt (dc power) or maybe a combination of things(xs power + dc power). It all depends on how much your trying to ask your car to do with stock electric and an aftermarket sound system.

^^^Haha Sounds systems, computers, Steve is a baaaaadddddddd man. All thats left is for him to make a Computer sound system! already did, its in the Tahoe on the Mac-Mini :D Yes sir you did. Not many people can log into there itunes account and blast a song at 30k+ watts with 4 18's and gang of speakers haha.

Thought this was a gag thread and you went camping with your 7.5k too ,haha....

^^^Haha Sounds systems, computers, Steve is a baaaaadddddddd man.