Joe X

Like this is better: Unhappily too busy these days talk to you later on.

It's a matter of trying if that's even possible, but the ones that come with the kit will be optimized.

Well, good call, that fully solves the issue, hope you didn't pay retail price for that amp though as it seems rather expensive for the power delivered.

I lean on building a 10 x Vas box and boot for optimal sub protection but anyways try that out if you want and see how that goes.

The amp will push 600W to one sub at 4 ohm, you can't really do anything about it. But being such a large vehicle I would run both of them and over time upgrade the amp. Said that the sub loudness at 600W as compared to 850W will be about 2dB or less so not much of a difference, just build a large efficient box for it if not changing the amp or the sub.

Not too big of a deal, just cover the hole with some MDF from the inside BUT if the box is a shared port design add an identical piece of MDF in the other chamber to keep volumes identical.

Your D2 subwoofers can be wired to 2 ohm coils in series subs in parallel so no problem there, is just that the amp is 900W and the subs together can take 1900W easily so not getting all the subs can offer with that amp, you will be getting like 3 dB less than possible (not too much). To compensate build a large,efficient enclosure to get more out of them.

Bear mind that you only need to be loudest at the microphone and not everywhere, you can achieve sound pressure orders of magnitude above of what power can deliver just by promoting constructive interference avoiding destructive interference and by using resonance, also by using extremely efficient custom drivers you can gain a lot, standard "Daily" subs are ridiculously inefficient, like 0.1 percent so that 99.9% of the energy (amp power) is lost to heat and only that 0.1 percent or so is converted to acoustic power. Also when you see extraordinary achievements like 185 dB you know that likely physicists using advanced hardware and software tools are involved to optimize the system not some guys putting together stuff just to see what happens. This is just to give you some idea, and not extend the post too much.

You need to specify what's your vehicle, what is the sub model the box specs and some pictures if possible. Looks like a box issue, installing a DSP could help flatten your response but not the other issues, in some situations inverting the phase of the signal to the subs can help some cancellation issues, other times box location / sub, port firing direction etc can help. try what is suggested and if you still not get results then provide the details I asked about above.

I guess you could install your current box subs / port up in the trunk of your equinox and see how it goes. Now being in a SUV (larger cabin) calls for larger subs just to try to be as loud as before, say 2 15s subs up port back (2 sa15s for example if you don't want to upgrade power) . that would be ideal, I wouldn't bother to build a new box for 2 12s.

I was thinking of condensation of ambient humidity for example, which in the longer term can be harmful to the sub but you make it work man, let us know what you did and how it turned out.

As long as you isolate the front wave from the back wave and the sub is not enclosed in a <10 Vas airspace you have IB for all practical matters, I don't know what issues you will face cutting such a big hole in your truck or if just a boot will weather proof your sub but other than that it should work.

I don't know if I could call that weather safe, an enclosure that is at least 10 times the sub Vas will act very much like IB. Here is a crazy project you can take a look at that shows what to expect from that sub as well as an original way to achieve IB in a medium size vehicle where a very large enclosure is not an option.

So what is your vehicle and budget.

Firing subs directly to a port is something you don't want to do most of the times.

Not sure the chambers are of different sizes but even if they were with sealed there is no much difference in performance for normal to larger than normal internal volumes, say 1 cubic feet and 1.2 cubic feet will sound largely the same. If those subs are the lanzar st max12s those may play better in ported box rather than sealed. To answer your question it's better to cut a circle in the dividers rather than take them out to preserve the box strength.

I am covering a lot in one post so bear with me pls: 1) If the gately enclosure you have is the one with 58 square inches of port area, that's ok 2) As for the gains bear in mind that you also have know the clipping level of your head unit which also needs to be measured, not only the amps. 3) You don't mention the big 3, you need that upgrade as well. If your amp is not grounded to battery directly (best) it's a critical upgrade you need to complete. 4) For the current draw of that amp your electrical system should be about 250A alternator and 40Ah of total battery capacity, and that's only for music, Although these are somewhat generic calculations, it gives you an idea of how low your electrical system is right now. 5) if you are wired to 1 ohm means that your subs are D1 and you wired them coils in series and subs in parallel or coils in parallel and subs in series, D2 subs cannot be wired to 1 ohm. Wire should be AWG8. 6) power wiring is ok at 1/0 as long as it is OFC. The quality of your connections is as important as the quality of the wire so recheck everything. 7) you should get a clamp and a multimeter to see how much acuial power the amp is demanding, it's a great way to know what is to blame for you not getting the full performance from your system. Hopefully that's enough information for you to make a full check. Also although manufacturer recommended box specs will usually do fine in some cases custom specs can provide increased performance, I don't have that sub in my database so I will seek to enter it when I have the time.

You don't say what alternator you have, you setup your gains incorrectly, couldn't get the AH of that battery, you don't say what gately box is the one you have...... My impression is that you have to let someone setup your system professionally before reaching any conclusions. I think that system may have some more in it than what you are currently getting.

That amp is half bridge so it can run on lower voltage say 11V or so without issues, your alternator should be 180-200A for better results, also to note that the amp needs to be placed where there is good ventilation but not on the box if possible. Port area for the box should be about 55 square inches PER driver so about 110 for two drivers.

If the alternator upgrade will not cause any issues to your vehicle I would definitely go for that bearing in mind that you should play your system with the car on for the most part, you really don't have enough capacity to play on batteries for now.

I don't know the exact current draw when you are playing your system hard but those two amps together are capable of more than 1000 amps of current draw on music, let alone sinewave and you can only source at most 320 +120 = 440A, you should add both alternator and battery power to match your needs. Good thing your voltage doesn't drop below 12.5 or you would be having issues with the full bridge amps.

Your mid woofers need to be run like 80Hz to 4400Hz and your tweeters would need to be run 4400Hz and up BUT your amplifier can only provide the 80Hz hipass filter but not the 4400Hz crossover, same for the tweeters, they cannot get a full range signal, need to be hi passed at 4400Hz besides, the head unit can only provide like 22 watts per channel at most. There are on ebay these "1pcs 2 Way Crossover Filter 2 Unit Audio Frequency Divider 4-8 ohm 150W 3500HZ" which are $10 a piece that you could use, You could redirect the output of the mid woofers in that crossover to the high level input of the rear channels so that you only need to buy two of these, that would be the cheapest possible way to do it more or less half properly.

One way would be to use passive crossovers to run mid woofers and tweeters say in the front channels, PRV have thier own passive crossovers: https://prvaudio.com/products/2df4400/ And running the other two mid woofers on the rear channels using the the same passive crossovers even if there are no twitters to install. (this assumes you don't have a signal processor sourcing the amp). If you have a signal processor you wouldn't need any passive crossovers on the rear channels.

If you don't have a superb electrical system better not run a full bridge amplifier, stay with half bridge amplifiers. Success with those subs depends a lot on the size of the box, those subs will work best on 4-6 cubic feet net per driver.

A decent branded alternator of that capacity should be at least $400, I would recommend you to get a deal on a good brand alternator, say $350 and pay that and have a good life, I mean you already got burned once so I don't need to explain it to you, avoid getting burned for a second time. Also you don't describe your application maybe you can do with a less amperage rating higher quality alternator, sure it will get you better results than a crap 400A one.