Joe X

Here is a suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 36 Hz Vb = 9.5 ft^3 External Height = 20 in External Width = 47 in External Depth = 26 in Port Width = 32 in Port Height = 4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 47 x 26 Left & Right Sides = 24 1/2 x 17 3/4 Front & Back = 47 x 17 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 15 3/4 x 33 1/2 Port Left Side Assembly: 15 3/4 x 4 Port Right Side Assembly: 15 3/4 x 4 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): Any changes, comments or questions let me know.

If you post some max dims I could further help.

You have roughly 8 cubes net in that enclosure, you should have 12 cubes net for 2 18s, that box could work well with 2 15s.

Ok you have an Accord, what are the max dims for the box and what's the model of the amp.

Post vehicle, amp models, max dims amd music type you listen to. I can provide you as suggestion or help to create your own.

There is this LOC (may be others) that when they listen audio signal it will self generate an amp turn on signal without you needing to interface with something else: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33576_Cache-CLOC-D.html If you are cheap you can just use the ignition signal but you will have to interface from a fuse box or somewhere like that and the amp will stay on as long as the car is on.

The best you can do is giving the external dimensions of the box and the dimensions of the box and the vehicle this is in. Also you should check your subsonic filter so that is not tuned to high and the incoming signal not to be hi passed or equalized etc.

DC Audio, Rockford Fosgate for example can work in smaller than average enclosures.

I would recommend a couple of Sundown Audio E12: http://www.ebay.com/...d8d37ff&vxp=mtr As you can see cheap, to save space a common chamber side aero ported box. Could be done in about these dimensions: External Height = 16 in External Width = 30.5 in External Depth = 17 in You can use this amp for them: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22705_Hifonics-HFi1000D.html Would match them perfectly and isn't very expensive either.

On those dims about 3 4" port to the side would do but port area may be only sufficient, Slot ports are the way to go when aero ports can't provide what you need.

The amps would have to go as well, but you do seem to have space for just about any couple of 12s.

Seems you are all set then, let me know any questions later.

Sure: Also I would personally tune higher but each to his own.

I really like vertical ports since avoid bracing is just that you are not wide enough to fit it and give proper port area. If you are willing to use standard PVC pipe and flare it yourself can do aeros is just that it may not look very nice.

Yes from Torres you can see they are 6", Flared though are just available to 17 long. So check out the slot ported one. Sorry that subs were no good.

For across the bottom slot port this could work: Enclosure Specifications: External Height = 20 in External Width = 36 in External Depth = 31 in Port Width = 28 in Port Height = 4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 36 x 31 Left & Right Sides = 29 1/2 x 17 3/4 Front & Back = 36 x 17 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 22 1/4 x 29 1/2 Port Left Side Assembly: 22 1/4 x 4 Port Right Side Assembly: 22 1/4 x 4

For aero ports this can work: Best on around rated power.

Hello hapitec, here is a full layout with calculations for the box above for you to make calculations of any kind on it:: Here are some figures on the box: Driver displacement used was 0.22 cubic feet per sub. Gross internal volume is 18 1/2 x 19 3/4 x 49 1/2 that equals to 10.46647 cubic feet. Port displacement ( parts + airspace ) = 18 1/2 x 19 3/4 x 9 = 1.902994 cubic feet. (shown in the transparent blue cube behind the box). Port center line length = 19 3/8 + 4 1/2 = 23 9/8 inches. Bracing displacement for two 45s 3 inches wide = 0.048 cubic feet Net internal volume = 10.46647 - 1.902994 - 0.44 - 0.048 = 8.075 cubic feet ( or 4.037 cubic feet per chamber). Hope this is enough information BUT if you have any questions let me know.

Yes you will have to keep in front of the port a distance about equal to the width or the height of the port whichever is less. If you post your max dims for the box I could give you a suggestion.

Trying something alternative to the previous one: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32.6 Hz Vb = 4 ft^3 External Height = 15 in External Width = 30 in External Depth = 28 in Port Width = 5 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 30 x 15 Left & Right Sides = 25 3/4 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 30 x 25 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 20 3/4 x 13 1/2 Extension = 5 x 13 1/2 Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

And forgot to tell you, need free airspace in front of the port, it should be about the width of the port itself. Otherwise it won't work as designed.

Thanks for all your help. I had some trouble deciding but you made it easier for me. I'll be going for the single baffle, but will do the all 45s for some reinforcement. I also have another question, but the topic is totally unrelated. As I mentioned, I have a Camry with JBL integration. I am using the factory speakers but want to add aftermarket speakers using a 4-channel amp and my only option is to use high-level input to get a signal to the channels of amp. The problem is that the speaker is not a single 2-way speaker, but they are component set. I can only get the signal from one speaker, either the tweeter or woofer, to one channel, like this, so the channel can only pay highs (if I got the input from the tweeter) or lows (if I got the input from the woofer). How can I get a full frequency signal to a channel when they are separated like that? Is it possible to just take both positives and both negatives (from the tweeter and woofer) and wire it to the one channel? I know this question is out there so I may have to repost this in the amp forum; I was just wondering if you knew. Obviously you need someone who has direct experience with that JBL system but the idea is to take the signal before it becomes crossovered, if you just join cables unpredictable results may follow by feeding the output stage of one amplifier to the other. You may however just feed the amplifier with the incoming signals and use that to power aftermarket components BUT results would be likely bad since the crossover frequencies may be different for the afternarket comps. Honestly I would just remove all stock stuff and place my own HU and be done with it.

Ok here is a suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34 Hz Vb = 3 ft^3 External Height = 18 in External Width = 28 in External Depth = 17 in Port Width = 2 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Top & Bottom = 28 x 17 Left & Right Sides = 15 1/2 x 16 1/2 Front & Back = 28 x 16 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Top to Bottom = 13 3/4 x 15 1/2 Extension = 7 3/4 x 15 1/2 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): Let me know any questions.

OK man the only way to help you is for you to provide us with pics, plenty of them the car, trunk and some measurements, a pic of the 10 grand would also help..

I checked and those drivers are well suited for sealed usage, will perform worse on ported box unless it was huge, in any case fill them with damping material like poly-fill or dacron and you will get more bass. Your best bet though is get 2 12"s as has been suggested there are great options for $110-150 each.