Joe X

Just entered your data and adding the second layer just sets the net volume to 2.67 cubic feet and the tuning to 33.66Hz. The second layer displacement is substracted.

They would need to be 12" each. But your design have other problems.

Happily you don't need a double baffle.

Not at all

Right, the 0,75 is the difference, if the port is in the same face as the sub and it's 1.5" to substract if not only 0.75 (when using a double baffle). Yes, you can find out the length of the port parts with sketchup.

You just need to calculate the port parts length.

Yes, it only is supposed to change when the port is not on the same face as the subs and when you are doing a double baffle.

Ok, check the port upward, sub upward then (guess nothing will change though).

To be a standard L port with 3 common walls you need the port height to be 17.25"

The necessary port area really depends on the subs, the port area per cube is only a rule of thumb, for those subs you are usingI would go for no more than 16.

If you are going by RF specs just note that they specify Vb as the gross volume (before any displacements). Not to say you can't pick a larger volume. Also if this is a standard L port design then you should set the "# of common walls" box to 3.

TC Sounds for SQ, for an IB setup Acoustic Elegance. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=293-650

A single 6" aero mounted on the baffle 19" long on a box 35" W x 20" D x 13.5" H will do the job. You can either place an elbow to make it turn or run it partially external. it will give you about 8 square inces per cube, 30Hz and 3.5 cubic feet of net volume. Should be pretty easy.

A single side mounted 6" aero and reducing the width of the box to 35 would leave you 3.5 cubic feet of net volume, 30.5 Hz of tuning and 8.1 square inches per cube of port area.which would be acceptable for low to medium power/excursion subs, but if you really have 0.47 cubes of subs/bracing displacement maybe those are high power subs, in that case 8.1 square inches per cube may be low if you want good efficiency.

Yes but your port area per cube would be below 7.

Ok in case you decided to go ported, here is a suggestion based on kicker's spec and in your dims also better port area and ok for use on rated power: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 36.7 Hz Vb = 3.5 ft^3 External Height = 14 in External Width = 33 in External Depth = 20 in Port Width = 4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 33 x 14 Left & Right Sides = 18 1/2 x 12 1/2 Top & Bottom = 33 x 18 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 12 1/2 There is an alternative assembly method in case you don't want to cut the port through the baffle.

What are the maximum dims for this box?

You may try this: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35 Hz Vb = 2 ft^3 External Height = 15 in External Width = 23 in External Depth = 18 in Port Width = 2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 23 x 15 Left & Right Sides = 15 3/4 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 23 x 15 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 13 3/4 x 13 1/2 Extension = 7 x 13 1/2 Assemmles like this:

Here are some infos: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/thiele.asp

Ok, here is a suggestion, within your dims and factoring in your power. Port/sub firing frontwards or backwards: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35 Hz Vb = 3.897 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 16 in External Width = 29.75 in External Depth = 25 in Port Width = 4 1/2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 29 3/4 x 16 Left & Right Sides = 22 3/4 x 14 1/2 Top & Bottom = 29 3/4 x 22 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 18 1/4 x 14 1/2 Extension = 2 3/4 x 14 1/2 Assembly guide not showing bracing or port optimizations (generic dimensions!!): Any changes you would like done? let me know.

That would give 400W RMS to each sub at 2 Ohm.

Sure that would be awesome!! So here are some basic suggestions, hope it helps:

Likely the your problem was not the box you have.. ALONE.. bottom line you want it louder.. Chaging tuning helps a lot sometimes (EXPLANATION: As pointed out on an earlier post your port area per cube is 8.5 so you can rebuild your port to get better port area and ADDITIONALY a higher tuning could be chosen if modelling supports the possibility of increased output )...or you can gain a few dBs also with a 2:1 type 4th bandpass...

Ina back seat is different since you are not just hammering the trunck lid, two 12" (well chosen) front/back firing will be better.

Regarless of which will be "louder" factor in that you need to fit the 15" sub frontwards or backwards so if you don't have that go for 12"s.