Joe X

MTX suggests a box which is 2.48 cubic feet at 32Hz, port area per cubic feet of net volume is 11.617 But probably that is a compact suggestion.

Its a single flat piece of MDF: Front to Back = 25 x 34 1/2 Parallel to the bottom wall, the bottom port needs bracing, if you would like me to submit ab updated sketchup showing optimizations and bracng, let me know.

You have the perfect amp for those subs, I also think it would fit your car well and leave some space for other stuff. You need to like the sound of those subs though.

Ok Terry Zona, about the center deflector you need to make sure that the width never goes lower than 2 3/8" so making that piece larger than it needs to be will detune the port, if I can help with anything let me know.

You take the mounting depth an half the diameter of the magnet to know at what angle it will hit the floor, basically you have to model the mounting position factoring in the bottom sheet of MDF, it can't touch the bottom though so some clearance has to be considered.

Yes in a 17" tall box it will probably fit but I need to know the diameter of the magnet or it will hit the floor of the box with the wrong angle.

Lost output and a lot of noise from the trunk lid getting hammered.

On a sealed box, very few.

Don't build it just like that, it needs to be calculated so just le me know what you decide and I will give you a suggestion, or use the Torres calculator.

Well you will hear the port(s) manly.

It will, just make sure your electrical is in perfect shape and use the subsonic filter on the amp to protect the subs.

If I set the net volume to 1.5 then the ports could be 17 each. On such amplifier power It would not be wise, but I can give it a shot if you want.

That's some drastic system downsizing! Aero ports would need to be very long so going for a slot ported suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.064 Hz Vb = 1.181 ft^3 External Height = 11 in External Width = 23.25 in External Depth = 18 in Port Width = 2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 20 1/2 x 9 1/2 Back = 23 1/4 x 9 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 16 1/2 x 9 1/2 Side 2 = 17 1/4 x 9 1/2 Top & Bottom = 23 1/4 x 18 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 9 1/2 Extension = 14 3/4 x 9 1/2 Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

Have you ever metered that thing?

You can post the specifications of the box here to check if it is correctly calculated.

Let me show you all you can do inside this type of design: The center deflector is most important optimization as it avoids the lateral airstreams colliding head on (it has to be done correctly as shown), but this shows other optimizations and bracing that can be done, You can figure out the length of the port parts with any calculator and/or sketchup (measuring along the centerline of the ducts ). If your dimensions don't include the double baffle that's best, I placed the second layer on top of your original dimensions so the design above does not change, just place the second layer on the top if you want to do the bouble baffle, it's highly recommended.

The first design baffle is strongly braced with that center rectangle brace and likely won't need anything else but if you were to double baffle instead you would end up with something like this! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/136743-box-for-g6/page__view__findpost__p__1927142 And yes the common chamber design is simple to build and widely used design.. with it you can test the port either side to see what you like best..with the center port you can't,..it has other disadvantages as already mentioned above.

Ok so here are the port dimensions: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35.094 Hz Vb = 3.285 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 12 in External Width = 40.75 in External Depth = 20 in Port Width = 4 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 16 1/8 x 10 1/2 2 x Extension = 3 13/16 x 10 1/2 A second baffle layer on the top should be added if possible, if you already have it le me know as some calculations may change. If you can do angled cuts, I will give you infos on the 45s and the center deflector that can improve performance of the box, a side port option is available in case you prefer it.

Is your box already built, if so, is it fully or partially assembled?

Yes I would do a box specifically to compete..or I guess you will lose..lol.. after all is a couple 12"s box, no big deal to exchange.

Yes you can do a fully internal slot port.

There are fully internal, external and mixed.....or you can go with a slot port if you don't like aeros

Check here also: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/125741-2-6in-aeros-or-1-10in-aero-port/page__st__20

Based on a 15" height and a 14 deg slant you could probably fit the sub (don't have the motor diameter), one other thing, you would need 13" to fit it facing up.

Well flanged aeros can sound cleaner than slot ports due to reduced turbulence, also you can change the box tuning easily with them which you may need to compete.