Joe X

Yeah thats what RE site says, but I have heard its wrong. So far everything as far as specs go with RE has been off lol. So is that 4 cubes after sub displacement and prt displacement? Model the sub to see how far you can grow the box, since you are sourcing below rated power you may be able to go above 4 cubic feet. And they say 4 cubic feet plus port volume.

1200W is very little power for those subs, you should set 1.6 cubic feet per sub that pioneer recommends which will increase efficiency and output, I imagine that you have the space in a tahoe.

A slanted box sub firing backwards usually save space, probably you should measure the width and height of the truck near the (rear?) seats.

The sub won't fit with the port passing on the bottom. You still will have some space in the opposite end of the box if the port is firing upwards as well.

Loosks that will be firing upwards, don't do that on a trunk.

I understand, port/sub backfirig is fine, I can rework my previous suggestion for you or you can go ahead and make your own spec. If you are unsure of the port parts length post them and I can check them.

Whatever you do go front firing or backfiring ports/subs From the screenshot I would suggest to make a double baffle with this subwoofer, place a "1" on the "# of extra baffles" box, also your net volume is below 4 cubic feet that RE Audio suggests. To get the port parts you need to look at the physical port length box on the Torres and do some calculations or measure the length of the port along its centerline which in your case is 2" .

Some people prefer baffles going all across the width and height, I use those for very powerful subs only, take a look at the other way to do the baffle (this is from another design): You are right maybe you can do without the double baffle since the subs are low power but It never hurts.

Here are the specs for the Skar VVX-8: http://skaraudio.com/index.php/products/vvx-8/item/vvx-8-subwoofer.html Hard to believe but their net volume range for ported is 1-1.4 cubic feet per sub. So here is a suggestion within your dims: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 36.12 Hz Vb = 2 ft^3 External Height = 13 in External Width = 29 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 2 1/4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 26 x 11 1/2 Back = 29 x 11 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 14 1/2 x 11 1/2 Side 2 = 15 1/4 x 11 1/2 Top & Bottom = 29 x 16 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 12 1/4 x 11 1/2 Extension = 5 7/16 x 11 1/2

Ok so here is a suggestion for the crossfire audio db3 12" subs: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.01 Hz Vb = 3.608 ft^3 External Height = 18.5 in External Width = 36 in External Depth = 15 in Port Width = 2 3/4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 32 1/2 x 17 Front Internal = 31 x 17 Back = 36 x 17 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 13 1/2 x 17 Side 2 = 14 1/4 x 17 Top & Bottom = 36 x 15 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 10 3/4 x 17 Extension = 8 3/16 x 17 This subs are 200W RMS each so your amp will drive them a little above rated, start with low gain and watch out for clipping. Let me know any questions.

Sorry, fixed, the design was unchanged and is calculated for one(1) sub. And OP I can change the dimensions tuning,etc. to your likings, let me know how do you like it, when you are happy with it I will submit a drawing on actual dimensions.

The sub itself is 120 W RMS. Watch for clipping, check the wiring to the battery ad the electrical, start with low gain. So here is the suggestion, I could tune lower but it's going to loose output most likely: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.033 Hz Vb = 1.291 ft^3 External Height = 12 in External Width = 20.25 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 1 5/8 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 17 7/8 x 10 1/2 Back = 20 1/4 x 10 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 14 1/2 x 10 1/2 Side 2 = 15 1/4 x 10 1/2 Top & Bottom = 20 1/4 x 16 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 12 7/8 x 10 1/2 Extension = 10 1/2 x 10 1/2 If you want to change anything, let me know.

If you have the model of the sub and amp I can suggest you a box.

Do you have an exact sub model there are like 7 series.

So check this suggestion out, port/subs front firing or rear firing for 2x Alpine Type R 10" will fit most trunk type vehicles: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.978 Hz Vb = 2.502 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 16 in External Width = 31.25 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 2 3/4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 27 3/4 x 14 1/2 Front Internal = 26 1/4 x 14 1/2 Back = 31 1/4 x 14 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 14 1/2 x 14 1/2 Side 2 = 15 1/4 x 14 1/2 Top & Bottom = 31 1/4 x 16 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 11 3/4 x 14 1/2 Extension = 12 1/2 x 14 1/2 I recommend the use of a double baffle although is probably not really necessary, can be changed to a single baffle.

I would definitely prefer subs/port front firing (or back firing) for a trunk vehicle

When I checked the spec on the manual I had the same thought.. You can go above mfr spec but modelling the sub to get an idea of how excursion behaves.

you didn't even look past the first picture, did you? granted, OP, you probably don't need more than .5 cubic feet of bracing, and tha't's pushing it right now the way i got it calculated i have 2 braces going up and down and 2 going across. Should i go ahead and remove 1 that goes all the way across and still have 2 going up and down since it has more area to cover to prevent the box from flexing? right now the wood i got for braces are 2 pieces of 2x2x8. not cut yet but thats what im using You can declare a double baffle by setting to 1 the "# of extra baffles" box. Those 4 crossbraces can work for sure.

The Orion HCCA 15 works in 3.05 cubic feet net according to the mfr.. space saving for a 15".

You need a double baffle and bracing.

Nice, just take care with the port corner, the cross sectional area of the port must stay at least 3.5" wide, if the 45 is too big that will alter the tuning.

H = 14, W = 56, D1 = 6, D2 = 11 Thats 2.75 cubic feet gross internal volume, there's going to be some loss on the center can you calculate that? or give me the depth loss on the center and the length (the center console width)?

So here is a suggestion port/subs on the same face: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 30.029 Hz Vb = 3.346 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 15 in External Width = 38 in External Depth = 18.75 in Port Width = 3 1/2 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 33 3/4 x 13 1/2 Front Internal = 32 1/4 x 13 1/2 Back = 38 x 13 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 17 1/4 x 13 1/2 Side 2 = 18 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 38 x 18 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 13 3/4 x 13 1/2 Extension = 16 x 13 1/2 Let me know any questions.

I am giving you the length of the assembly parts which are two parts as you can see on the pic: L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 12 3/4 x 12 1/2 Extension = 4 x 12 1/2 You need no more information but if you are just checking this technically the center line length is 24" but this length is not to be used for building purposes.

Area for 8 6" aeros is 226 sqin Area for 4 8" aeros is 200 sqin (I think this will do)