Wicks

I understand what he is saying as well, just giving him a hard time. Jokes aside, even if that setup worked, you would then know how many VA your amplifier can put out into a bucket of concrete. Still wouldn't tell you how many Watts your amplifier puts into your SPEAKERS say what? That's exactly what your dyno does. Uses a purely resistive load to measure power output in watts.... Last time I checked a coil of wire is an Inductor, not a resistor. I think you are confusing it with this http://www.rexresearch.com/davis/davis.htm Oh snap Tony doesn't know what bifilar winding is. rofl. it's as close as you can get to a completely resistive load with magnet wire. Well of course Ben, most everyday car audio guys know what a bifilar coil is and can just whip one up or run down to the local audio shop to get one, right...........? SMH If somebody wanted their own Dyno then I wold envision them buying some power resistors like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Ohm-100-Watts-High-Power-Ceramic-Tube-Resistor-100W-2R-/310579396094?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item484ff97dfe Sure they'll be a bit inductive but for a DIY'er its fine. Or they could step up to these which are used in the AD-1: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231032379691?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Or get an AD-1 if you're able to. Or find one locally. CJ18 has gladly taken requests to Dyno peoples amps and he doesn't insult people because they don't have "bifilar coils" in their garages..... You throwing around these obscure terms doesn't make you look more intelligent, and the constant insults to everyone around your definitely doesn't help you image either.

Just found something that I thought everybody would be interested in. Yesterday while Ben (SINTORMAN) was in this thread trolling, check out what he wrote on a Colorado Car Audio Facebook Group: This is a thread about clamping power at a competition.... Interesting that on an SMD forum he's going through every effort to push a complicated clamping solution that involves everything except an SMD product. On the same night, on a FB group, he appears to be OK with suggesting the AMM1.

Most handheld meters already measure RMS, not peak. So there's no need to multiply by 0.707 unless you're looking at peak numbers from an o-scope. Ohms Law is fine.......for DC. Doesn't directly apply for AC (amplifier output). Tony has a whole string of vids to teach people the basics:

Soooooooo you're saying that a lead designer from Rockford Fosgate doesn't know how to measure the output from an amplifier correctly....? I would suggest some research before you make accusations...

Them guts...............

Cool! No problem. Damn...I love Mt Dew but would never mix it with booze.

Hey, tony keeps coming out with cool stuff all the time. I have no idea it it's something that would be hard to detect or display. And for all I know it would be something the deck would have to detect. I hear what you're saying, same reason why I put an o-scope in my dash to look for the same thing. Make it affordable and show me how, I'd do it. Check my build log. My o-scope was only about ~$50 or so, plus it needs a resistor divider network to reduce the voltage from the amp. Tapping into the RCA's might be easier. Tapping RCA's was what I was thinking might be possible People on this forum keep making me wanna try stuff cause they put the knowledge out there. I will look at your build log and look for this. I just looked at your build, I have no idea how I didn't go through the whole build. I will check it all out tomorrow when the sun is up. to much vodka to read right now HAHA, I'm a few vodkas deep myself. Gotta get that tolerance up for tomorrow night My o-scope is connected to my DC5K so I can see directly what the subs see. Monitoring the RCAs would be easier but there's always that possibility that the amp(s) are also clipping the signal (for whatever reason) so you might miss something.

Hey, tony keeps coming out with cool stuff all the time. I have no idea it it's something that would be hard to detect or display. And for all I know it would be something the deck would have to detect. I hear what you're saying, same reason why I put an o-scope in my dash to look for the same thing. Make it affordable and show me how, I'd do it. Check my build log. My o-scope was only about ~$50 or so, plus it needs a resistor divider network to reduce the voltage from the amp. Tapping into the RCA's might be easier.

Hey, tony keeps coming out with cool stuff all the time. I have no idea it it's something that would be hard to detect or display. And for all I know it would be something the deck would have to detect. I hear what you're saying, same reason why I put an o-scope in my dash to look for the same thing.

Ya, that sounds like a pain. I was hoping for a cool digital read out with -db on the screen would be badass. Like it could be detected no matter what the volume is. Sounds like the OM-1. Digital display won't work as music is too dynamic but the analog display on the OM-1 should work for this.

Sounds like you need an o-scope in your dash........

Misconceptions and the arguments that follow from the "experts".....

lol... thanks chief. Actually, i had a failure. My push buttons on the display, failed. Im hearing they had a "bad batch" get through. I got one. I was lucky enought to get it adjusted some what to where i wanted, before the push buttons took a shit. So, i am locked in at 14.7-14.8 But, the display is stuck on ADJ (adjust). But, it is still keeping the alt at the setting i entered. I have a RGA number from XS, and Mike is suppose to be sending me a new display unit. I would rather have the display reading the voltage.. LOL. So, yes, a bad "something" about the unit. Sorry, but, i had to say something?!?!!? Had to be fair. BUMMER......... At least it didn't crap out on you while you were "trying" a higher voltage which you'd be stuck at. 14.7 is a cozy voltage to be stuck with. I know I accidentally cranked my adjustable regulator up to 16V once....

Sweet! Crank it higher!!!!!!!!!!!!

0dB is your full output with no attenuation. 3dB is double/half power. -5dB is 5dB lower then full output. So well less then half the power.

Top notch, Sir!!!

Nice pics! Love to see a vendor who's not afraid and proud to show their guts!

Love the idea of an SMD - DC collaboration! Tuned for sure! Those color matched dust caps are SWEET. Can't wait to see more.

...Changing the game. Love it! Very cool new product. There's going to be a LOT of mad "clampers" out there. I agree, having it connect to a computer to log the data would be nice. How about something more simple. A USB port on the AMM-1 that logs the data and stores it to a CSV file on the attached flash stick? You could then take the flash stick to your computer later and plot the data in Excel. I would assume that writing all that data would slow down the measurements so it might have to be implemented differently, but it'd be a nice feature anyway. Am I the only one who's curious about the green circuit board with the many RCA connections in the video? BTW, awesome that you incorporated Tesla in the video and your products. Weird dude, but a genius nonetheless!

An amplifier doesn't create power, it converts it. If you give it a limited electrical supply, then your output will also be limited. Proper alternator, battery(s) and wiring should always be your first step.

Guys, I veering off topic a bit here, but this might add some perspective. I was going to wait for Tony D's education video to come up about impedance, but it might help to throw this out there for consideration. There's soo much more to amplifier output then just what you're nominally wired at. Here's an impedance sweep from a Hertz ES200 8" sub that I have: Notice the raw driver has an impedance peak of about 30 ohms at ~31Hz. In a ported box, notice there are two peaks of ~20 ohms at 22Hz and 53Hz. So your resulting impedance really depends on the frequency of material you're playing. Burping at one of those peaks would obviously cause no issues to the amp whatsoever. Notice that the lowest impedance that the driver gets to is approximately its nominal impedance (4 ohms) and it only happens in a few frequency bands. "Re" is it's DC resistance (2.9ohms) if anybody is wondering. So you can see why testing an amplifier at a resistive load (constant 4ohms) would be a MUCH harder test, which is what the AD-1 does. Hope that helps.

15.42V on the 0.5ohm test? On a charger? 16V bank? Just curious.

Great video Tony Love that you went in and explained specifically what RMS is rather then just throwing up a general formula, especially comparing RMS to AVG. If people are serious about this hobby then they should be interested in learning how it works technically. The part on the Vrms of the clipped waveform should open some eyes, that's for sure. I know its important to keep content in its respective section of the forum, but to increase the views and make sure as many people see the videos as possible, it may not be a bad idea to pin them in the Electrical (and maybe Amplifier) sections as well. When you get to it, the Subwoofer Section could use a pinned video on impedance too.

Just remember your basic formulas: Ohms Law: V=IR Power = VI = I^2R Those formulas can be rearranged depending on what number you're given and what you need to find. Plug in the known numbers and solve for the unknown(s).

If you have subwoofers/speakers with spring terminals: Install banana plug terminals on the ends of the wires, then insert the banana connector into the speaker terminal rather then trying to twist and jam the wire into the terminals and ending up with messy wire strands sticking out and possibly shorting together. IMO, Those spring terminals may say 8ga but they sure don't fit 8ga very well. Especially in a tight corner of a subwoofer enclosure where you don't have room to get your hands and twist the wire. Another tip that could go along with this............buy your speakers with direct-leads!