carshateme

220a, the idle is totally fail...because every electrical applicant in my car dims down (or slows down), I turn my gain up to 3...and all my lights dim, I try to put it at 7 and my car acts like a crack addict seeing crack after being clean for 5 months and is having withdraws. So I'm going test it sooner or later with my dmm in my electrical class. but I seriously doubt its doing what is it rated.

Necessary, no, recommended, yes.

How so...from what I've learned the more power, the smaller the volume, the less power, the bigger the volume has to be. Meaning I'd get more power from being at .5 ohms than at 2ohms.

No amp brand is going to put "stable at .5ohms" . That would void the warranty on most amps. But alot of amps are stable at .5ohms and DC amps are definitely stable at .5 ohms. I would go with the 2 DC1.2ks and strap them. because if you wire each sub to its own amp you have to set the gains exactly same on both and thats REALLY hard to do. But if you strap them you can set the gain on the master and be done. Okay, thank you, I'll take that in mind...now to look for how to clamp amps =) I'll get 2 1.2k dc amps...because I don't have a lot of space to deal with in my trunk so I cannot underpower my subs.

Okay, so I think I'll get 2 1.2k DC amps or get two 1k rms amplifiers and clamp them to get me .5 ohms.

errr... http://www.the12volt...ons.asp#results was about to say, "wtf, 12volt lied to me /Rage" Amps to use, I'm thinking about JL audio or DC, if I go dc, I'll just get the 1.2k. I don't know how hard I'll go on them RMS wise, don't know what 2 12" dc level 3 with lvl 4 softcone rms level is. Reason I bought this up because I can't find .5 ohm amplifiers, (do they even make them) or do you have to strap them down to get .5 ohms

Okay, so I got this question on my mind. Going to be getting 2 D2 subs and I'm wondering if they would sound better at 2 ohms, paralleled to each other into a mono class d amp or should I get 2 separate ampliifers, same brand, and one sub to one amp and the other sub to the other amp, if that's even logical, they'd be at 1 ohms

Umm...you had your car battery still hooked up while you were working on it....sounds like you might've shorted out your fuse on your positive wire if you hit the frame...

For the impala or the buick, cause my impala has a button you push and it pops down, my buick, you have to pull down manually. My impala...lol I don't think I will do anymore harm to it.. I'm already putting in imagine dynamic component speakers front and back with 12 8" infinity subs lol...12? why? Idk. Might just sell em and get 2 12s.

There's your problem. lol. I bought a battery from them one time, they tighten it down so tight to a point where I tried to remove it and the bolt stripped the inside of the battery....causing a horrible connection. /end troll on advance auto parts. like said before, Ground, make sure its on a clean unpainted surface, remote, get a DMM and test to make sure there is powering even going through it. Fuse: make sure it isn't popped.

95 buick Buick Skylark; trunk dimensions are quite small, 26w x 15.5h x 34d, I honestly don't want to wall it off, considering I have a lot of friends who ride along with me, but that's only in the winter. I have my Impala which is the spring, summer, fall car..

http://www.ddaudio.c...500-series.aspx $105. =) Yes I be trollin. but not now. But long story short, I'm buying 2 level 3 12" dc from d-train =)

Holy crap, wtf? ^ lol

Looking for like 30 feet of 1/0 http://weldingsupply...4-1270||1|146||30ft. of that would be about $90, and it's pure copper wire. Another option would be http://www.ebay.com/...5#ht_500wt_1413 You don't need to order 50ft. lengths, they can cut it to the size you want if you call them. But just for comparisons sake, this wire works out to be $2.78ft., no shipping charge and you can order it in a variety of colors and you can get it custom printed if you want. I just ordered a 50ft. run of it, should be here Thursday. jg23 sent me a sample of it before I ordered, want me to send it to you so you see how it is before you order? Lol you shop at the same store I do, Weldingsupplies. =) I was about to /ragequit when I saw the price on the trystar but then I noticed it was for 50ft.

But wouldn't it sound better with 2 subs? Its not about 1 or 2 subs sounding better, its about the cone area. 2 12s do have more cone area than 1 15, 226/176. 15s won't fit in my car lol, Unless I wall it off. Alright, I gotta take care of some problems on my car, waiting to see how much money I get back on taxes, was too busy to do them. I pmed you d-train, I should have a positive amount of money that I will be able to spend within a week.

But wouldn't it sound better with 2 subs?

I may have gotten my price wrong. I got the 0/1 gauge CCA that came with a (5ft?) ground, 17ft of power wire, a fuse and fuseholder

Thanks Cj. But I've had 10s most of the time...and I want to up my game, so I am sticking firmly on getting 12s

2nd that. I got my power kit for $59.

Okay...since I can't get DC audio subs on my budgets, I've been looking around and noticed Digital Design subwoofers were affordable to me, Are they good subwoofers? I like to research before I start getting interested in buying stuff. In the future I want to enter in SPL competition, but with my car I won't stand a chance in the high watt categories. So I'm going to stick to the low watt ones, so how do they work?

Dang =( Wanted to go all dc audio...guess I'll just have to use the money to buy my new mechman alternator and save some money up for the subwoofers..

Okay, I sold my audiobahns + hifonics amplifier, and my 3.5 farad for $600.. So I'm looking for a setup that will be a little less than $600 or near it.. Will need an amplifier and 2 12" subs. Any suggestions is appreciated. Sincerely, Your forum troll.

u mad bro? Problem? The dude is pushing over 2000watts. Better safe than sorry. I know what I am talking mmk? Tyvm

Turn off my subs? Lol

There is a full version on the bottom of the window if you scroll all the way down