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Found 53 results

  1. Voltage dropping to 12.8 at full tilt with 330 amp alt, four kinetik batts, four runs 0 guage , one optima up front. I don't understand , but it only does it when I'm just sitting at idle. When I ride and play it it's fine, .voltage drop no less than 13.3V. Wat do I need to do???? I'm confused do I need more batteries , more runs of 0 guage ????
  2. I'm buying a new sub, a SoundStream XXX 18" and will be using my Fi SP4 for a home theatre setup. The amp I want to use is a Crescendo BC5500, is it a good match for the sub? Also what kind of electrical will I need, this is what I have: 1 x 225 Amp Upgraded Alternator 1 x Optima BlueTop 800CCA Starter 1 x Optima YellowTop 750CCA Deep Cycle 1 x Power AGM 1000CCA Deep Cycle - Big 4 Upgrade
  3. So I just got a FI BL 18 and I need some advise/designs for a box. I have a 2003 explorer sport and have a decent amount of space in the back. The max I wanna go with outer dimensions is 41" x 20" x 25" (width x height x depth). I was thinking sub on top on passenger side and the port facing the back hatch on the driver side, uned to 30 hz. Let me know if you think otherwise. I'm all ears! One more thing...if anyone has designs for a box please feel free share!
  4. This build will be gradual so bear with me The Sub is a DC lvl3 18 with lvl4 upgrade, powered by a BC2000d @ 1 ohm. I have a 300amp Singer that i got from a member here, as well as an optima 34/78. I also have an XS D1200 en-route. I started by building the port. .375 roundover on all port edges. I should have waited to route the front of the port until the box was complete though. i Had to fill in the corners with bondo and go over them with the router a few times to get them perfect. If i would have thought about it before i started, i could have saved myself a lot of time. A also completely forgot to subtract the volume of the port bracing from the total port area... You live and you learn, right? Working on said port bracing. Used the C-clamp to keep the ends of the smaller pieces of mdf bracing from splitting. I like to drill pilot holes on the small side... Working on said port bracing. Used the C-clamp to keep the ends of the smaller pieces of mdf bracing from splitting. I like to drill pilot holes on the small side...
  5. So it mught still be a month or so until i really get a chance to start because i need to find a place to do it and my garage is too small and isnt heated but i figure id start the thread now and show you all whats going in there
  6. Couple of thing up for sale here first off is a Kenwood Excelon KDC-x997 LNIB had it installed in my car for 2 days until i got my Pioneer unit in. includes everything in the original box asking $200 if you want more or better pictures just ask.
  7. So I was planning on getting a Singer 240 amp for my 2001 Toyota 4Runner since I was gonna run a BC 3500 on my Mayhem 18, but I ended up going with the BC 5500 instead (for upgradability). I will be running an XS D7500 battery, Big 3, 2/0 gauge, etc. Will I have to end up going with the 270 or 320 amp alternator instead? I was trying to avoid the higher current models because I didn't want to experience any voltage drop at stoplights with my foot on the brake (650 rpm) and the 240 amp model has a lower turn-on speed. But now I will obviously need more current if I end up getting another Mayhem or going with one of the Team Series drivers. I'm not sure what's more important... No voltage drop at stoplights? Or having an extra 30 or 80 amps during heavy current draw (I guess that's what the battery is for). Any input would be appreciated.
  8. Alright.. So about a month ago I decided it was time to buy a newer, more reliable vehicle. I'm not a fan of having to repair my car, and with my job I just can't be without reliable transportation. It was time to upgrade. I found a great deal on a 2012 Chevy Tahoe LT with 17,000 miles and decided she was the one. I really loved the fact that the bowties were already blacked out and that it had an after market grill already. Next up, it was time to head to Sound of Tri-State and have a Viper 5902 installed with a few extra attachments added. The thing I told myself going into this was I want to do it all right the first time. No half assing shit on this build. Next on the list was to meet up with my good friend Jay Henderson and get my Hoe some new shoes and add a Magnaflow dual exhaust. So I made the trip to Nowhere, VA....just kidding Jay, South Boston, VA. I got there Sunday and we, I mean he, got to work on it. We had to make a lil room up front so I could turn fully without rubbing, so Jay got to cutting. Jay told me he was really attracted to my Hoe and felt "sparks" between them. I didn't get it at first, but then it made sense. So we got the 28's mounted and ready to roll. Then we began the work on getting the exhaust installed (yes I lended a hand here). Jay is just about done welding her all up. And after about 5 hours of work on a Sunday afternoon, we pulled her out of his shop and she sat like this.... Now, for the rest of the audio build it is going to take some time to get it where it needs to be, but I know exactly what direction I'm headed in. Next week coming up I will have the tint done and the Pioneer AVH 8400BH installed in it. I'm not going to be talking about the build until the pieces of it come in, but I promise that this build will be well worth following.
  9. I've never wired mid speakers and tweeters before and I just want to know what is the correct Ohm impedance for the Tweeters and Midbass speakers? I'm going to wire 4 speakers to a 4-channel amplifier, so when I order the speakers do I get 4-ohm OR 8-ohm?
  10. I'm starting a new build now, some of the old parts will be reused but I'm going for a cleaner, better sounding, smaller setup this time. The old setup was just killer on the suspension of the car and it had to go. New equipment: Kenwood DDX371 DC Audio 90.4 DC Audio 1.2k Crescendo RTS-1 tweeters Silver Flute 6.5's Fi SSD 12 knukonceptz 1/0 OFC Sky High Car Audio RCA, speaker wire, ring terminals, primary wire XS power D5100R Northstar NSB-AGM24M DC Power 180amp HP series alternator Audio Technix 60mil deadener I need to cover these sections up, I'm going to try and buy the side carpet from honda if it's not crazy expensive. Update 12/22/15 Everything is here now, I will start working on the box here soon. Box has been built, 2.3cu, 33hz tune.
  11. I wasn't going to do this, but after I got thinking about it, maybe my build might help someone else out. Malibu was traded in for this 2009 Equinox LS AWD with the 3.4L engine that no Alternator company makes an aftermarket H.O. alt for at this time. Some of my old equipment is going to be recycled until I can afford to get new things, but I am trying to do this one a little bit better than the last.Yeah, yeah, I know, onto the pictures you pic-hungry whores Anyone looking for the quick talk-free version of this can find it here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/173773-ubl-lbox88s-2009-equinox/ Not much room under the back seat for anything since the rear seat slides forward and back for more passenger legroom.Might be able to squeeze something in at a later time in the sare tire well.
  12. I've been thinking about doing a car trunk build next with 2 12's on a BC 5500 and deadening everything with Alpha Damp Deadener. Thing is: what would be best for LOW-end in a car build, having the enclosure and subs facing the Back of the trunk with the rear seats folded forward? Or, having the subs "sealed off" forward in the trunk? Im allll about Ground Pounding lows, but dont know what would sound best. The other thought that crossed my mind was just saying screw the rear seats and building a wall with 2 18's but i dont really want it to have to come to that. Ok either way im sure with 6000 watts and plenty of sound deadener the system will be nice, but id just like your guys' opinions on the whole situation (especially those with trunk builds themselves, experienced people please, and those who have big wattage like that), thanks!
  13. So I've still got my old Fi SP4 18 sitting in it's box on my floor and I was thinking... What could 6k RMS do to it? Currently in my car I've got a Crescendo BC5500 running a SoundStram XXX 18 (10,000w RMS) and I thought about if the SP4 could actually be louder than the XXX. My gains are set clean using the DD-1 and the -10db Track but at full tilt how quickly do you think it would fry? With my electrical I could assume the amp is only giving it 5k but still this is something I wanted to try tomorrow has anyone seen an SP4 take 5k for an extended period of time?
  14. Just came in after I chased the FedEx truck because he said he knock! No dogs barking like crazy. I called him a liar to his face and said he was lazy he did not want to carry a 90lb box. The whole box and sub weighs 150lb. Box in one of the stages of building. No nails or screws!!!!! Used #20 lemons to join together.
  15. New Fi Q's are rated for 1500 RMS stock, 1700-1900 RMS with cooling where as the AA Havoc is rated for 1250 RMS. Older reviews and comparisons say the Havoc hits better down low but im afraid it won't handle the 1800-1900 RMS daily off the Crescendo BC3500D. I would like for the enclosure to be 5.0 net cubes tuned to a medium of 31 Hz either way and I prefer lower end deep and ground-pounding bass in the 28-36hz range more than anything. I want to flex my car to bitts and pieces and "feel" the music more than merely hear it. I want to violently shake everything and make it feel as though my car is falling apart on the lows. My only other consideration would be a Fi Bl but I am afraid it will be lacking on the lows for me as I mainly listen to chopped and screwed music and decaf down low (27-34Hz).
  16. I'm in the market for a good 6k rms amp. Primarily looking for a Crescendo 5500bc, but if you have anything else as good or better please inform me.
  17. Crescendo BC2000D, in perfect condition not a scratch on it only very minor wear on the mounting locations. Comes with original box, manual and bass knob, amp is only a couple of months old so still plenty of warranty on it. Asking $325 shipped in the lower 48. Clean RMS power on 13.8v standard electrical system: Ohm Load BC2000d 1ohm 2250 2ohm 1100 4ohm 700
  18. I'm looking to buy an amp in the true 1200-1500 watt range at 1 ohm. It can vary from this range a little bit, just post anything you've got. For my budget it can go up to $300. I'm interested in cheaper stuff as well, though, such as the Soundqubed 1200 and other amps.
  19. Recently installed my Crescendo CZ comps in my blazer and they sound great for the price. I'm running them off of a Clarion XH 5410 so they should be getting at about rated power. The tweets aren't very harsh at all even at high volumes but it has a little more midsbass than I'd like, but I'm pretty sure thats in my tuning. One thing I'm curious about are the crossovers. In the middle of the crossover there is a 2 way switch. It isn't labeled so I have no idea what it for. It has a left,middle,and right, position but whenever i push it either way there is no difference in sound from the tweets or the mids. Since I didn't know what the switch does I just left them at the middle setting because thats the way they were shipped from the factory. Does anyone who has ran theses comps know what that switch is for??
  20. A friend of mine got a new car due to the old one getting hit and sadly the system didnt make it. The first thing he did when he got his new car home was call me up and to plan out his next system. In his old car we put in two sa12's on a Soundqubed 1200.1 and it sounded great in his accord. He gave me his budget to work with and I got to work. This time I decided to go a different route with the subs and amp and we are going with two DC lvl2 12's on a Crescendo S1500.1. I will be ordering a SHCA 4g OFC kit here soon and I just got the Clarion HU in today (not sure what model, will check when I get home). This will be nothing big but just something simple to get the bass he wants in his daily driver. Enough talk, onto the pictures. I will get the pictures of the HU up when I get home. More to come.
  21. My Crescendo amp came in today and had this Crunch laying around so i decided to see what is the difference between 2000 watts max and 2000 watts rms. I guess you can kinda tell the difference lol Crescendo BC2000D and Crunch P1-2000.1 [url=http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/Gguerra33/media/20130913_160240_zpsf95a8039.jpg.html]
  22. I wanna run 2k daily from most likely a crescendo bc2000d.. its factory 120 amp im pretty sure... Im almost positive I need more to run 2k on subs and maybe 500 watts tops on components... 2001 Passat GLX 4 motion V6 2.8L I found this alt wanted to know opinions on this alt or if anybody has used this company? PowerBasturds 220 amp universal fit alternator its $349 does 110 at idle and 220+ at 1200 rpm some reason I cant post the link?? any help and suggestions is appreciated im trying to do this right the first time
  23. As of lately I've been having doubts about my system in regards to installing/putting more into it or just stopping and leaving it the way it is. I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe with 2 Fi Q 15's on 2K watts. An under-sized Ported Box tuned to 30hz (probably is 4.5 cubes on 2 15's...really small). Stock alternator. 2 Batteries (still dips voltage though). Stock Bose mids + tweeters. Have NO sound deadener installed atm. Anyway I'm just going to list out the things i'd LIKE to do to the truck soon, but don't know how worth it it would be to do so, here it is: single or double layer Murder Mat in the entire truck, get clean+loud mids + highs, get a 7-8 cu ft Ported Box tuned to 33hz (have NO IDEA where port(s) should be - still facing trunk lid OR facing roof? - not to mention id like to keep my middle row seats), and possibly upgrade the alternator to a 250+ amp. My problem is if I decide to do even ONE of those things in that list, I figure i should do ALL of them just to have my system "perfect" as much as it can be and possibly compete hopefully one day soon. You can imagine to do all that it once would cost a decent amount of cash. There's a nerve-wrecking issue I'm having with the overall Sound Quality of my build atm. That would be the front 2 doors + windows rattling / making a heavy amount of unwanted tones. I figured 2 15's on only 2k wouldn't make that much bad noise, but it does in my truck. I literally have to press my leg against the door panel to bring those noises down to a cleaner level of sound. The lows arent as bad as the highs, but it still irritates the heck out of me. Well guys I know this is a pretty lengthy post but if anyone has any advice about sound quality, the box design + space in the vehicle, etc id really appreciate it. I'd HATE to just say that I'm done with the whole bass system after i put quit a bit of time and money into the truck already, but its almost coming down to that. Would anyone with sound-deadened systems be able to tell me how much the deadener helps with door panel and especially window noise? I appreciate whoever can offer anything, thanks in advance.
  24. Hey all, new to the forums here. I'm looking at some new amps for spring. Does anyone have personal experience with the Crescendo BC5500? It's guts look solid, seems to be a Korean board so I'm inclined to trust it. I suppose I'm asking if someone has clamped this, or something else in the BC series. If it is the BC 5500, what does it clamp at .5 ohm? (nominal wiring, don't really care what it rises to just need a general idea) Also, please do not try to sell me on some other amps. I am well aware of all of my options, thanks.
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