alaskanzx5

just a link, nevermind got it to work. enjoy. just a quick 40 sec vid of the hatch flexing with 2 t2 12's with a t1500.1bdcp wired at 1ohm. custom box 4.03 cu ft after displacemnt. slot port 16.61in per foot., ended up tuning to 45hz but gets low and sounds great. will post another video of in the car and the speakers themself later.

not to mention all the wood, bolts, screws, and fiberglass that will be put in its place. should hold strong.

maybe cut a peice of play wood just 3/4" shy of the width you need the top and mount the 2x4 to that then have some one hold it up while you slide the 2 side walls in place to hold the top up. basicaly build the top then hold it up and slide the sides in place and put it all together, if that makes any sence.

yep missed typed that lol. and perfectionist has theirs posted on their facebook

lol, dont break them in just bump em till they blow. so that everyone can learn from your mistake, he he. i agree with breaking them in but for only about a full hour worth at 3/4's volume.

didnt see it posted so i figured i would post it up. Image audio of wasilla will be doing a comp db drag style june 3rd. will be free food and a dunk tank, prizes have been rumored but not much info they are keeping it hush hush. perfectionist in anchorage will be doing a show june 16th. they always do it big. should be some real nice cars. its a spl king contest no classes just who ever is the loudest wins. kinda stupid to do it that way but what ever to each their own. maybe they will learn this year that there is a certain order and guidlines to hold a true spl contest. untill then what the hell, im going anyways. safe and sound june 26th, northway mall. posted on their facebook. ---- had one may 6th to i guess <-- anyone see numbers for that one? soundworks at uaa august 12th, check out the soundworkds favebook. will update with more show dates as i hear/learn about them

i got a singer alt and waiting on wires to do the big 3 ( i know not the smartest choice to put a 250 amp alt on stock 6 gauge wire) but i was dropping low as 11.3 now im at 12.4. sure to gain a good amount after the big 3 for those that might ask i had the alt put on before big 3 because my dad has the tools and volunteered to do it so i had no choice but to work on his schedule.

those are some nice p3s, but like everyone else said a custom box will bring more life to them.

if the seats fold down then build the box with subs and port facing the front of car and seal the trunk off from the cabin. look at the member builds there are some good trunk build like that.

i use 8 gauge for sub and 12 gauge for door speakers. if you look at the member build logs then you should be able to find some good links for good stuff.

well, i get all my stuff from a locale dealer so i dont know about websites to purchase from but a do know that there are some adds and the top of this page and some of them are for car audio so you could look at those. for the alt i would go with the biggest bolt on alt i could find just because the fact of how much power your wanting to run. i see the xs d3100 being used by a lot of people on this site so im sure its a good battery. as for volt drop i would say anything under 13.8 volts is to low.

i was thinking the same. i mean if you get 2 ho alts and 1 good batt and then the power still drops a lil more then you want you can add another battery. however if you get 1 ho alt and 2 batts you could still chose to get a second alt or more batteries if the volts are dropping more then you want but i would atleast start with a 300 amp alt and 1 batt.

im only learning with the electrical upgrading but im getting a singer alt. heard a lot of good stuff about them on this site. check out mechman and dc power to though. i dont know how many batts or what batts or anything but i know it will take a decent amount to keep a good power supply if your wanting to push 5k + watts.

well, i know those rf t2500.1bdcp take a good amount of power, i think it around 200-250 amps and you said your thinking about getting 2 of them so thats 400-500 amps. a single 300 amp alt with a nice sized battery bank could work but in the end it would most likely be best to have 2 ho alts if possible.

so if im reading this right you were using 4 gauge and now your sing 8 gauge? why did you downgrade? specialy if your looking to upgrade. When you do upgrade if you get the rf 2500.1bdcp then the birthsheet is around 3200-3300 at 2 ohms on most of them and 3300-3400 at 1 ohm. your gonna want a few runs of 1/0 gauge wiring no matter wich of the amps you pick along with an alt upgrade mybe even 2 alts. then you will also need some storage, lots of batteries. welcome to the forum

what you do is make a frame from 2x4's that are to the measurements of the trunk/back then put a peice of strong wood plywood will work and its cheap. then you draw out where on that flase floor you sub box will sit and where your amps will sit. then you drill holes in the falso floor for the wires to come up to you amps from. then you can paint or carpet the floor your choice. for the speakers wires that go from the amps to the subs where on your box do they come from? side(s), top, bottom, front, back? if the wires come from the bottom of the box then you can hid those under the falser floor to. something like this but to your standards http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/high-school-xj-club-sort-40790/index2/

make a false floor and run all the wires under that. draw out where the amps will be and drill a whole infront of each connection on the amp for the wires and run the wires under the false floor and up through the holes and into the amp. if the speaker wires for the subs connect or go into the box at the bottom that sits flat on the floor of the car then you can run the speaker wires from the amps to the subs under the floor aswell. in general make a false floor and run as many wires as you can under the floor. when i build my box im gonna run the speaker wires for the sub through the port then put it on a meter and test the box in different positions so that i can find the best way and then im gonna run the wires through what ever side of the box ends up being the bottom. gives it a real nice clean look.

this idea doesnt sound bad, take the $265 and put around 80 into building your own box, then take 60-80 into sound deadening. last but not least show your girl a good time out on valentines with the rest of the money and then take her home and do your thing. lmao, i'd call that money well spent.

i see that the first post doesnt list anyone for alaska with a dd-1, just wondering if by chance there is anyone in alaska with one. would realy like to get my amp set right.

cockie was getting down, cant wait to see this one in person.

on the behalf of all fathers out there, the last one is just messed up. thats just sumthing that should not be joked about. also to agree with everyone else that was just stupid.

loving the upgrade seems to load faster and everything is a lot easier to find.

you just want to laugh at him lol

3 12s, 2 foward facinc and 1 up facing port to 1 side facing forward. trunk sealed off. same box dimension but a slot port to either the driver side 5.25" in wide 24" long the net of the box would be 4.61 with out any bracing with the double baffle. i dont know about those subs but dont most 12"s work best with 2cuft net so you would need 6 cuft. 3 12s in a ported box just wont fit. maybe 2 12" in a ported box and the a single 12 in a sealed box. or 3 10s, single 15. sorry but the going off the measurements of your box the tunk can only hold 6.07cuft gross when using 3/4? wood. add in the port sub and bracing you have about 4.5-5 cuft to work with.

this is a good list to make the job easy. i never used wood clamps just tons of screws. didnt have a jig saw either so i drew out the cut for the sub and then used a drill and just did a whole lot of drilling to get the hole cut and cleaned it up with a file and sand paper.