alaskanzx5

i noticed most were rear wheel drive, they didnt do bad at all just nicer for there to be a small track of somekind so that you can realy practive control in the snow. i wouldnt call a fwd in snow drifting either, i just simply call its snow drifting or playing in the snow. fwd do great in snow though, its all throttle control in a rear wheel drive good throttle control and you can realy get going. with fwd you have to kinda feather the ebrake and throttle to get going good.

we do it on frozen lakes, open lots, roads, it dont matter the car came equiped with an ebrake for a reason. most of those people driving in that video seemed to only know how to whip around. set up a figure 8 track using cones somewhere and practice controled slidding. its nice to see people going sideway on snow track with control. dont get me wrong im not hating some of them did good but i would rather see more controlled slidding then just whipping around. i spend a lot of time playing in the snow with my car though, 5+ hours a week. i have hour lunches so it gives me time to practice and learn.

ok, 1st the rf 1500.1bdcp usaully do 1800-1900 at 1 ohm 1700-1800 at 2ohm, i wouldnt push those subs passed 1000watts a peice so even at 1 ohm doing 1900 watts you will only be at 950 per so your good. second, you will need a second battery maybe more. these amps are beast i have one. it will get those subs moving great and if you can get the amp for 350 thats a great deal dealers pay about 500 a piece on them. you should consider saving up for a ho alt. make sure you build a box for those subs to, take some time designing it and brace the box fairly well.

4 12s in a wall

the 2 18s and the 2500.1 could do 150plus if you build the box right and you will have to up your electrical. it would easier to reach 150 if you double up on the subs and amps seen 4 t2 12s running off a single t2500.1bdcp hit a 150.8 with a stock electrical system in an escalade

wouldnt it depend on the effeincy of the amp?

escorts are not that bad, not the best looking but not bad. secondly go to some local car shoes and bass comps and check out what everyone is using and what sound good to you. secondly if money isnt an issue and you realy want some bass your gonna want atleast 1500watts + + +. last but not least, if you realy did research like you said you did then you wouldnt need to know what size wire or what brands are good. do your research dont just say you did

not sure with those subs but most 12s need about 2 cuft of airspace after port bracing and sup displacement. then with a ported box i know most people seem to tune around 32-35hz im tunning around 35-40hz. so in the end you will need a box with atleast 4cuft net of airspace and have it tuned to where you like it with about i would say 16 sq in per foot. a box at about 15" high 32.5 wide and 25.5 deep would give 4.06cuft net for the subs slot ported tuned to 37hz with 15 sq in of port per foot, the port would be 2.5" wide with a total lenght of 22". would have a double baffle and you would have .06cuft that you could use up for bracing and 45s in the corners. should sound nice in a box like this but im sure someone will chime in with a more knowlege on those subs

you ever get those t2s meterd? and how much power you running to them?

dang, i wish i had your weather right now. winds getting up to 60-70mph and a few feet of snow. sand blasting your face from them putting sand down and the wind just blowing it in your face. all those people that think a few inches of snow is bad are retarded. a few inches is a day of fun in the snow with your ride.

so is the 17,78" per sq foot of port gonna be to much? i know that the rule of thumb is 14-16 sq" if it would be better for me to go lower i can ( would save trunk space for battery and amps anyways )

and ive got the same plan for my 2 rf t2 12, lol

i didnt know that, ive only done a few comps here in alaska and all the ones ive been to are done according to iasca guidlines. Not apart of the iasca season but they just follow their guidlines. i know that what ever meter they do use though doesnt change from show to show ( with the exeption of one show where they didnt seem to know how to use it correctly )

some one pointed out to me that i do need to put 3 for common walls and i did but it doesnt change the box enough for it to make a difference worth adapting to.

that not a bad setup specialy to do a 151 then jump that much more. just figured everyone here would like to hear what the equipment was that made it possible

Holy crap that's a huge gain! Yup, those were the days I experimented a lot and didnt have a meter, so I found out things at the show. And I remember the one on April of 03, 1 show on a saturday I thought I'd have thin competition so I showed up with 1 woofer running off a 400w amp. And a guy beat me, so I showed up the next day for the next show with 2 subs and a 1500w amp whats subs and amp that a huge increase from that change none the less a 151 on a single sub with 400 watts

also i will double up on all the outer walls making it 1.5" thick

ok, i finally had some time to complete the design for the box. if my guess is right i will even still be able to fit both the mid range and sub amps along with the extra battery and cap all in the trunk with the box. if not oh well i can figure it out when the time comes. well here are the dimensions and sketch-up of the box. hope you like. wont be starting the actual build for about 2 months to cold outside. there will be a single brace between the 2 sub, a 2x4 with the cornors rounded off also the port walls will be rounded the cornors of the box will all have 45 in them.

just dont go full tilt for a lil bit

i think the p1s need atleast .75cuft with 1cuft recomended. and aslong as the box is right around 1cuft it should be decent, it is a p1 so wont be the best but is good for a cheap sub.

i agree with 8s, when was the last time you say a build using 8s and a wagon?

well, ive got t2d4 12s and when i was running just 1 off of a t300.2 bridged i did a 141.xx and with the t1500.1bd cp i have now with 1 of the 12s i did 143.9 ( also did a box but it was my first and not the best ) The loudest 2 12S ive seen were 2 t1d412"s running off a t1000.1bd and did somwhere between 145-146 in a sedan. rockford is spendy though, im sure there are other great options with just as good if not better results.

ok ic, i didnt notice that.

i just looked at the torres calc page and it looks like that has been corrected so as long as the newest version is used it shouldnt be a proplem. also it is always recomended to double check the math on your own no matter who or what program did it.

is it over or under?