Swordlordboy1234

CURRENT BUILD. 2 skar ZVX 12's in 3.8 cubes tuned to 31hz 1 skar 2500.1 all sky high wires front to back done nice and clean. sealed off from the trunk nice and clean. (for a beginner) and 120 sq feet of AT 60mil

I can't play below 27hz any more when my current box is tuned to 31? ......FUCK THAT! Time for subs that can play lower, or something.

N8 is hacking everybody But I love it. In for more.

Put a couple hundred amp load on them both and see how they sit

Normally its a good practice, but I found with this wire it's much easier to leave it clean and untwisted. When you twist it, it puffs up almost a whole wire size. I guess the strands are so tightly packed that when you mess with them, they space themselves out some. GL with the AQ 3500, jealous of the amp bro. Enjoy the SHCA. I give 100% satisfaction to all their stuff I touched. Their 1/0 is awesome, the jacket cuts super easy yet is tough to rip, the shrinks are crazy thick and look nice and clean. I used all of their 14ga speaker wire (really 12ga) and 14 ga remote wire (12ga).. I also used their fuse holders, and their lugs. Only small complaints are the jacket on the 8ga OFC speaker wire..yes I said 8ga speaker wire in OFC. the jacket formula isn't perfect because if you rip those too carelessly the blue side will strip near the wire not in the middle. Also their lugs are thick, which is great... Unless you have honda with no spare space in the engine or on the alternator bolt and have to grind down the lug some to get the nut on the bolt for the alternator positive.

Tip... Don't twist the 1/0... Leave it straight, goes in the lugs easier. At least I found so.

Their lugs should fit there wire.... I just installed 2 of their spools, 60+ lugs and 70+ shrinks

Edit his lugs will fit his wire 1/0 to 1/0 and 2/0 to 2/0. Any outside lug you need 2/0 for the 1/0 and you need 4/0 for the 2/0

This 1/0 wire will fit into most amp terminals, and it will fit into dual inputs from PDB and TM, but it will need a 2/0 copper lug to fit the 1/0. And it will need a 4/0 Lug to fit the 2/0 from SHCA. you most likely will not need a reducer for the 1/0 unless its a cheap amp

That's just nasty loud.

Mine played way down past 26hz after they broke in tuned to 31. When I first started playing them they could hardly hit 40hz. People want something to really bang with out letting them loosen up? Lol...

Try their x series. Go 4 (x) 15's and add a second 3000 later. Then post vids so we can fap at multiple X 15's in the same truck

Waiting for damore to post his video as a response

this is classic... guy: what do you have in your car bro?! you: just 2 12's.. guy: nice nice, well i got 2 15's, JL audio! you: cool bro, so do you wanna hear my system? guy: sure, 12's normally hit pretty good, but not like 15's. you: ^lol

Final ohm load, extra battery or batteries and a volt meter would be helpful in this situation. Along with a DD1. Any fine adjustment with clipping helps voltage drop. My voltage drop at full tilt went up by .2 yesterday because I tuned with a -7.5db tone instead of -10... No real difference by ear, maybe even better then it was on -10.. And my voltage stays higher.

This! I think tony would jump on this challenge. His videos are awesome

Wow..... Moar pics great job Steve.

No doubt sundown has great amps that can take ohm loads like that, but with efficiency losses from 1 ohm to .5 ohms. Why would anyone TRY to run .5 ohms unless they are in competition vehicles and have a purpose to do so... Such as an amp# limit, power limit or space limit.

Don't run at .5 ohms..........just buy a bigger amp if you want more power and follow the manufactures suggestions.

If it comes out of the negative how does that effect passive crossovers?? Not sure but I had everything hooked up positive to positive negative to negative.... I even double checked my RCA's and used my fader balance to make sure fading right went to the right side front and back and I also did the same for front to back to make sure nothing was mixed up

If its any consolation.... Lowering from 60 - 56 resulted in way better everything. My doors are louder, my upper mid bass doesn't distort anymore where I used to hear it slightly. And the bass.... Omg... The bass is stupid loud now. I think it has to do with the dd1 finding distortion due to my improper level on the headunit, so my gains were lower then they should have been.

Well ill switch it back and take a listen. I did the 1 thing your not supposed to do when testing audio..... I changed more then 1 variable. Lol... I changed the volume point on my headunit to a known cleaner signal, I changed my gain settings to match my new deck level, and I changed the polarity of 2 of the channels according to the DD1.... So I guess I should switch between on polarity and off polarity and take a listen to pink Floyd the wall, and maybe some Michael Jackson (my go to SQ songs) lol

I've read the DD1 manual multiple times but I didn't see anything about polarity. I seen stuff about compensating for regulated and unregulated amplifiers. Does anyone know where that info would be in the manual about the dd1 detecting polarity wrong using the 1khz tone?