Jessica

Ok, my first post was messy, lol. I set with -5 no clip light, played -5. smelly coils. 13.8 with perfectly clean signal from 14.0

Your drop isn't that bad. Don't mix battery types. You could also do some research because the 98 windstar appears to mount exactly like yours does and its a 130 amp alt, $129 bucks at oreily's. May not be compatible but you get the picture.

Well, i can't re-check with the kenwoods cause they are layin in my garage. But i should be able to play a tone if i have clean signal right? Should be able to play all day as long as i am staying under rms? I am pretty sure i was seeing a 4ohm load at 40hz with box rise.

Those look eerily like the w3013ps subs they make but with a slightly different cone(<-edit). I mean the specs are almost identical. Hmm, I'm going to bet your best bet is either give them 2cuft each and tune really low or put them in a sealed box. Since they are so similar i would say they would probably do better sealed. Wire to 1ohm and put them on a skar1500.1 if they die just get something better.

I set gains with the dd-1. like this H/U Track 1 and 2 - Full volume no clipping had signal and tone lights. Fosgate Symmetry Set Line driver with track 1 and 2 - No clipping had signal and tone lights I have a Pac-lc1 which was all the way up during all dd-1 tests, it goes to my sub amp. (the pac-lc1 is not a boost knob, just a in-line volume knob) My sub setting on H/U (-6 to +6) was at +6 Sub Amp (9105d) was set using track 3.(no boost and LPF @ 80) All e.q.'s including the one on the symmetry are either flat or off. No bass boost, no "mb-ex" no enhancements at all. Please note the symmetry only goes to the mids, not the subs. After all gains were set I played track 3 at full tilt. Maybe 10 seconds with car running and had smelly coils. Voltage drop was 13.5 maybe 13.2 from 14.0 The subs were Kenwoods w3013ps X 2 wired to 2ohm's Signal all the way up to amp is safe even at 0db full tilt Amp is safe at -5db which i tested with and still had smelly coils. Please explain. The box for the kenwoods is 2.0cuft at 35hz per side. Just what they want to be in. Ignore anything about sa-12's for the moment. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= this was the original post. It was causing confusion so i re-wrote it to help. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= So right before i got the sa-12's i re tuned my amp with the dd-1. I did have it set before with the pac-lc1 at half and used the -10db tone. When i reset it i tuned with the -5db(40hz) track and the pac-lc1 at max. The h/u goes full tilt with no distortion (even with 0db tone) so that's where it was during testing So, Kenwwod 9105d amp wired @ 2ohm to two kenwood 3013ps 12"'s in a 4cuft box tuned to 35hz After i got everything hooked back up i played the -5db track and played at full volume and the pac at max with the car running. Played for about 10 seconds and when i turned the volume down i smelt coils. Now, my mids are band passed above 80, and the RF ep2x eq has everything below 80 at -12, so i know they were not what was stinky. (edit: the ep2x only goes to mids and highs, not subs) Now i have the sa-12's in the same box, 2cuft each and tuned to 35hz ish. I am wired to 1ohm now with the 2 d4's. The only real testing i have done so far is when i set with the -5db tone I also turned down the pac-lc1 till i got a clean signal with the 0db tone and noted where that was. So when i drive home i only turn it up that far and have played dubstep and havent had any issues. So now i am a bit gun-shy about going full tilt again even with music, I don't want smell SA-12 coils and i don't know if maybe the amp has an issue under load or if it was just the kenwood subs. What do you guys think? Should I not sweat it? <-- Here is the question....

Was taking 720 watts like a champ

No, any ol' bath tub caulk will work(resists mold), i would not recommend clear as it's too hard to see if you are getting it properly applied. Maybe avoid something that says it stays malleable.

Look at this, this is what you want. A wet finger is critical. And that guy's fingernail is gross. eeew!

You are talking about a gap between the baffle and the horizontal wall right there right? Run a 1/4" bead of silicone down the seam from the inside, wet your finger and smear it down in the gap. Look for air pockets and make sure it's a smooth even layer across and let it cure 24 hours. you will be good to go. I will post a pic of what it should look like if you want.

Silicone?

I was just worried about the incline of the seat back being closer than 7" Trucks are such PITA to do installs on. Nothing ever fits like you think it will. If all else fails and you just cant get the sub in and get the depth you need see if he will entertain the thought of removing some plastic panels from the back wall of the truck and using the back of the cab as a back wall. I mean if you use a bunch of deadener and mayb...... no, ignore that, I'm getting ahead of myself. Best of luck with this.

You people are crazy! That insanity i have seen on this forum... Nice build. lol

Where did you measure the depth? At the bottom of where the box will be or the top of where it will be. Just had to ask.Also, if they are the new cvr's , they have a mounting depthof 6 1/4 inches. So a 7" deep box will give you 6 1/4" depth to mounting them. So uh, yeah that will be close.

I don't think Under powering is going to harm anything as long as it's a clean signal. If under powering was harmful then running my subs at half volume would burn them up. It's when people run an underpowered amp and use the gain knob to compensate and start clipping that you have problems. 400 to each with 4 is going to be pretty much the same as two with twice the power. Since double cone area OR double power equals twice the output in theory. I

Start changing passwords, start with her email then go from there. See if she will let you look through her sent emails to see what info she has given to him already. You might want to try that allclear i.d. protection. Worse case senario this is some phishing group in malaysia or some crap and you will never catch him. I talked to my mom and dad often about this kind of thing. I try to educate them so they won't get scammed.

Most proper disposals do include explosives, otherwise they're just boring as shit. See my point? Not everyone thinks like you and I, ctdv55.

As soon as i saw the title of this thread, i knew explosives would be involved.

If your box slides around, your subs aren't heavy enough.

Since you set gains at "half" how do we know whether or not this is unclipped wattage? Did you o-scope the amp output when you tested or something?

In series add the ohms, in parallel divide the ohms so, you can go parallel and be 2/2=1 then series and be 2ohms edit dammit Ch0sen, you ninja

I just went from 2ohm to 1ohm too so i feel ya. I noticed playing some b-legit today i dropped to low 12's, but normally stay at 13.5 with "normal" music. Guess we both need a better alt. Put up a video of before and after. I want to see differences in stuff like windshield flex and some in car stuff. Etc. etc.

One thing i see is of course you are at 2ohm now and you will be doubling power and going down to 1 ohm. That's going to be a whole lot more electrical. if you are seeing 13.5 now i am guessing you will probably see low 12's. But the cool thing is with 1 ohm loads is whatever box rise you have now it will be less of an issue i guess.

On, my clarion, and yes, its a clarion but not a kenwood. But it goes -7 to +7, if you don't set it to "Subwoofer" in the menu, it will muddy up the bass at +7. If i put it on "subwoofer" in the menu then it goes to +7 fine. I have also noticed that if i set it to +7 then switch back and forth from "subwoofer" to "through" it changes volume levels. Just some food for thought.

Heck yeah, that stuff is great for oxidized paint. Get the car wet and gently run with some 2k then wax. I used to own an 81 f-150 it was orange. then i wet sanded with 2k and found out it was red, no lie!

I would take every bit of interior plastic you can get without breaking it. That stuff gets brittle and if you need replacements they are hard to find. i would also take every light bulb you can get, plus turn signal and healdlight assemblies cause they are expensive too. If you can get the whole dash out then that would be great too. if you ever wanted to glass in a double din headunit you could practice on the spare. Other things would be heater blower motor and alternator, starter. ect.. Well, now that i think about it, would he have a problem with just letting you take 2 vans? lol