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Some background: I have always liked the F150 trucks and have owned several of them over the years. I had been planning out a system for those trucks for years and picking up the odd component here and there (most notably the Mechman 320a alternator and the XS Power D6500 XS AGM battery. I had planned on doing a system in a Supercrew 4-door and had also picked up a DM810 thinking I would integrate it into the factory (non-Sony) system. Some time in 2019 I decided I was sick and tired of having payments with wheels and made a few decisions that included trading my 2018 Lariat Supercrew in for a well maintained 2016 Supercab (the one with the funny half suicide doors). I had enough equity in the 2018 truck that I barely had to come out of pocket on the 2016 truck at all and I then had a solid work truck with no payment. Now I've got a solid work truck that I plan to drive until the wheels fall off. I also have a daily driver sedan that most of my mileage goes on and I only use the truck for towing, material pick ups, dirty job stuff - you know - work truck stuff, so I'm hopeful that it has years of life left. The build: 2016 F150 XL Supercab Ecoboost 3.5L Mechman Elite series 320 amp alternator XS Power D6500 XS Series 12V 3900 Amp AGM Battery A ton of KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks tinned OFC 1/0 and 4 gauge cable A ton of KnuKonceptz Kord OFC speaker wire (10 gauge - 16 gauge) Kenwood DMX906S + Kenwood DRV-N520 Dash cam (They integrate really well) Cadence DSP4.8 DSP that I picked up as new old-stock so long ago I don't even remember. I went with this instead of the Audio Control DM810 thinking I could save the DM810 for a build down the road where I was integrating with a stock system) 3-way actives in the front doors/A-Pilar DD Audio AW65 Mid bass drivers DD Audio AW3 Mids DD Audio C series silk dome tweeters 2xDD Audio 712D Dual 4 Ω voice coils wired down to a final impedance of 1 Ω across both drivers Custom built ported enclosure tuned to 28Hz (the published FS of the speakers) DD Audio C4.60 class A/B 4 channel driving the tweets & 3" mids DD Audio C2.150 class A/B 2 channel driving the 6.5" mid bass drivers DD Audio DM2500a class D mono block driving the 12s wired at 1 Ω Custom amp rack with 8 be quiet Pure Wings 80mm fans (4 ingress and 4 exhaust) All the sound deadener I had on-hand Ampeak 1000W inverter for running 110v stuff (comes in handy when you get somewhere and realize your battery tools have dead batteries) with the Ampeak remote on/off switch Soft tonneau cover LED bed lights Swing out bed toolbox The whole build spanned over several weeks (maybe even a few months) working on it when I had time and trying not to rush. All the fab work was done with normal power tools with the exception of one box trim piece that I used a 3D printer to make. No CNC or Laser work. I'll stop here and respond to the post with the build log pictures as I don't know if the site will time out if I spend an hour writing up a post

Ok probably a dumb question but ima ask neway i set my gains on the hu, fr amp, and sub amp with the disc as im supposed to and all is good. and for shits and giggles i played music and tested my amps with the dd1 and get a solid distort light light on my full range amp and a flashing on the subwoofer amp. Is this normal??? everything sounds fine just dont want too damage my equipment... Question 2, I have a Kenwood kdc-hd548u and it has a sub level -15-+15 adj as of now I have it set at 0 but after researching some say crank it up then set gains and some say keep it flat then set gains. so idk wich is better level high gain low or level flat and gain high????THANKZ

my system was loud as shit but after a having it for a couple of weeks it just isnt the same but is still loud.. so i gotta ask is it just me or is something wrong? could i be just getting used to it. it happens everytime i upgrade.

My build: 2007 Pontiac G6 GTP 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D412 in a competition box 2 Rockford P300.1 (bass) Pioneer mids and highs amp Kenwood DDX-418 6.1" touchscreen head Big 3 upgrade interior LEDs Strobe lights Black Spyder halo projector headlights Remin Carbonfiber dash kit www.youtube.com/fluentsarcasm1 PICS TO COME!!

1. Product: kenwood KAC-8405 2. Specs: 4-Channel Performance Series Class AB Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan. 2 ohms: 90 watts x 4 chan. Bridged, 4 ohms: 180 watts x 2 chan. Max power output: 720 Watts MOSFET power supply LED power indicators 4/3/2 channel operation Speaker-level inputs Input sensitivity control Bass boost switch Short circuit, DC offset, overload, and thermal protection circuitry Signal sensing turn-on Cast aluminum heat sink design Built-in cooling fan Gold-plated RCA level inputs Gold-plated screw terminals Single side exposure of terminals for multi-installation Variable high-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave) Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave) CEA-2006 compliant amplifier Dimensions: 11"L x 2-5/16"H x 9-3/8"D 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended. 3. Description/Condition: perfect condition concidering this was only used 2 months, only mark is a small scuff on the corner 4. Price: : 100 shipped OBO

This is what happens when you try to record loud music with a phone. The entire system is being run off of a hifonics 5 channel amp. The sub is an XFL 12 and its stiff as a board! 136 db's on music isn't bad for a single 12 not broke in off of a 5 channel tuned to 36 hz. http://www.facebook....&type=2 http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?v=3405925583584&set=vb.1133222970&type=2&theater