Jessica

I tuned with the car on floating from 14.3-14.4, I watch my voltage and never try to drop below 13. The reason you get different output is because the tones are different from a -5, -10 and -15 DB. You are wrong, if you set the amp gain with -5, then played -5 your output should be the same as if you set with -10 and played -10. Are you sure you didn't set with -10 and play the 0db track?

Use whatever tone you set with. Here is te thing, you have to watch voltage when playing tones at full tilt. If you set gains with the car off then you set with the amplifier getting around 13v. If you go below that voltage you can clip. But i don't know why you are getting more output with with different tones.

What tone are you playing to check voltage after you set wit the -10db tone?

Mini-box.com Got everything you need, and Liliput makes nice touchscreens. I got an 8" one off amazon for like 240 My build log sows my carputer. I am re-doing it cause my console came out crappy.

I would be careful clamping your amp in 2 channel with your mids hooked up. Unless you start with your gains all the way down and burp for like 1 second, which makes it really hard to get an accurate reading. I bridged my 4-channel ran it to my components, voltage without any speakers hooked up was 34v. Hooked up speakers to see what i got under load, and in the time it took to get a god reading i cooked my mids. Was doing 120-130 watts a 1khz to 90w rms speakers. I should have just left well enough alone because on music they were doing fine, probably seing around 100-110 watts. And i had everything set with the 0db tone using the dd-1. You may not have the same problem but then again, you want to risk it?

I believe It's opposite for the infrasonic, up is down and down is up. I don't own one, but test it out. If the down arrow is right when setting the lpf, then setting Hpf's it will be opposite.

I read 4v pre outs. It's lacking compatibility for my phone but I will consider this later on. kickstarter said: "Dash has 4 x 50w to power your speakers but also has 3 preamps running at 2V front, rear, and sub. We are using Maxim IC developed amps, a company out of Sunnyvale, CA." Devium Said: "This is the part of the Dash platform that is installed in your car and replaces the current stereo. The Dash Head Unit is the constant part of your Dash car audio experience. Our audio system is state of the art. Dash is built utilizing class D amplifiers at 50 Watts per channel to power your front and rear speakers. Dash also has three pre-amplifier outputs at 4 Volts." Two different listings, I just read the one. The manufactures web site states 4v, so thats probably what it is.

Seems kinda pricey for a smartphone dock. 2v out and stuff is a bit disappointing.

You need to clamp a straight edge or a level to the board you are cutting and use it as a fernce. Just don;t forget to figure in the blade witdth when clamping it in place edit dang ninjas

pm sent!

Eq's are like women, sure they have lots of fun things to play with, but after a while you just get sick of trying to figure out what makes them happy

I guess, i would suggest updating video drivers first. As much as i hate saying that. also this guy ran "clean boot" and it helped. Seems other people have had this problem too http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/ie/forum/ie8-windows_other/red-boxes-in-internet-explorer-7/7173dec5-8eef-4996-bba0-6abe6f2d1854

just soak it in cider. <-- read it fast if you don't understand.

ok, what is the "minimum" air space the subs allow for ported. Looks like you may have to go aero port to get the port area you want. Also, everyone is recommending more port area because too little can cause port noise and other issues. Port area is as critical as the volume your subs are in because the air in the port moves back and forth and helps control cone movement as well as how the box sounds. If you go 3/4" for the outer shell of the box you will need mode bracing. I'll leave it up to you to convince everyone to design a box with that option. But remember, you did ask for help and you are getting it. Sometimes we have to sacrifice a little to get what we want.

Drinking crown and coke right now. MMMM tasty

So, there are tons of threads on the latest and greatest computer builds, but I wan't to know what is the oldest computer you own? The oldest one i own, happens to be the first computer i ever owned. I got it when i was about 13 or something. I learned how to program basic on it. Back then I had to ride my bike 4 miles to the library and get books on programming. So here it is, the good ol' TI-99/4A Remember these things? I've heard you can overclock these and even mod it to do rgb out.

A good place to ground is right to the bolt for the alternator mount. And of course sand the frame down to shiny metal. Sometimes primer will look like bare metal when you are under your truck with limited lighting so take a flashlight with you and make sure. Use good quality fasteners on the frame, like a 3/8 bolt. Maybe put a lock washer and/or a jam nut on it just to make sure vibration doesn't make the ground come loose. Other than that, i think your are good to go.

Would adding a 3rd battery in series with an isolaotr or a diode in line work here?

My bad, Joe is right, corrected, i ad to shorten the box 2" to keep the port area up and the volume close to 2 cuft. I left a small amount of bracing displacement as you will want to brace between the port wall and top of box. just a coupe of 1" or 2" wooden dowels.

I went a bit high on the bracing displacement, You may want to refigure that but it wont make much difference, I didn't check the extra baffle option and the extra baffle is .07cuft. So it's not going to change much.

Also, with my design, I double baffled because there isn't much wood left over after everything is cut out. You may have to screw the rear baffle in then glue te front baffle to it to keep screws from running into each other. Like i said, if you want to go port and sub back it will be tight, but it can be done.

you can change that port length to 29.25 and ommit the bend and you will be fine, edit, what i mean is, run the port to within 2" of the back of the box and you will have a 29.25" long port @ 34hz

You wont get a 12" sub and a 2" port in a 14" tall space. If you can go a bit taller you can make it work, but it will be tight. here is an idea, let me know what you think

Just remember when doing your cut sheet if you have a port bend measure down the center of port. If you are going to put 45's in the corners then don't forget to add what they displace to the bracing box in torres. With a 32 inch long box i would put a 1" round dowel or two between the port wall and the box face for extra strength. You also have 1 extra baffle and i believe torres assumes it is internal. With 14" width and height that gives you 12.5 X 12.5 to mount, so how are you going to get the port in there? edit: sorry tat gives you 12.X 14, still don't see a two inch wide port and having the sub both in a 14" tall space. What is the cutout size for that sub, and what is the total diameter of the face?

My opinion is te box is too close to the back doors. Might try moving it forward and see. I could be wrong. I just think you need at east port width of one port between port and back doors. edit. and my brand new keyboard has an "H" key tat doesn't work unless you smash it.