jabo6692

shit didnt even know they made one that big, whats the difference between the D and the XP series?

Alright thanks for the advice, yeah my d1200 under the hood seems to be taking the voltage just fine with no fizzing and i've had it paired with this alt for a year now. Should my 270 amp alt be fine with 2 xp 3ks? I wont need a second alt?

So I'm planning on running a bc5500 in the future and i have a few questions about what batteries i'll be needing in the trunk. Currently i've got an XS power d1200 under the hood and a DC power 270 amp alt with big 3 and what not. my question is what size batteries should i go for in the back if i'm looking to run the bc5500 at 1 ohm (5500 watts)? Also how many runs of 1/0 gauge should i have going to the rear batteries? I was thinking of xp 3000 but my voltage often runs at 15 volts and even up to 15.4v on cold days and i've heard that xp series doesnt like anything above 15v? Might a D series be better?

"X-10/12/15 are due in Charlotte around July 9th -- then to us shortly after. X-18s are behind that about two weeks. Z v.4 will take until roughly end of July based on the coil hold up." sundownz posted this on the x series production photos recently so they're delayed

Wow man! thats an intense box! And by the looks of it, it will fit perfectly in my car. Perfect net size and everything, excellent job! I cant wait to start building it, thanks a bunch for the drawings man and thanks for all the advice everyone, ill be sure to post a vid somewhere when its all done

Ok john I've done all those measurements, and here they are: Depth from Top of seat to rear door: - 35in. Depth from Base of seat to rear door: - 45in. Width between wheel arches: - 38in. Depth and location of arches: arches are very strangely shaped and not symmetrical.. lets just say both of their hights are 10 in. and the left is 6.5in. wide, right is 8in. Width above arches: - 52.5in. Heigh from floor to roof (lowest point): - 36in. Height from floor to top of seat: - 21.5in. Height from floor to top of head rest: - 29in. Height to window line: - 19in. And I think I'm going to go with about an 11 net cu. ft. box tuned to 32 hrtz I'm not sure about a wall, i like being able to see out the back window, however if i did that i could fit a bigger box and few 10in. subs in sealed boxes built into the wall for mids? What do ya'll think?

If i used my maximum depth of 21in. (which is the hight of my rear seats), I would have exactly 18 inches of space from the upward faced port to the ceiling of the car. Thats plenty of space right?

Hey everyone! So I've got 2 kicker L7 15's that I'm running on a kicker zx2500.1 @ 2 ohms in my small suv. Basically I need advice for the new box I'm building based on my habits and the power I'm putting to them -This set up is for my daily driver (1998 4runner) and I listen to a lot of rap -I want them to pound and hit lows well when I turn em up -My maximum space in my trunk is: W:38in. x H:32in. x D:21in. so up to 12.56 cubic feet of gross volume -The box and port will be facing up. I'm considering doing the port back and on the bottom so I wont have to bend it -I'm planning on putting them together in a single chamber I know kicker recommends up to 6 cu. ft. of net volume per sub for these subs for "SPL/DeepBass" however I'm wondering with the power I'm putting to them if I should go smaller like around 4 or 5 cubic feet. Overall my questions are: -How many cubic feet should I make my box? -What frequency should I tune my box to? -Any other hints based on my needs? Thanks guys!

So i ordered a 270 amp alt from DC power, so I've got plenty of room for power. Now how many batteries and what type do i need for that alternator? Also, is it necessary to add more batts if i'm only going to be running this system while the car is on?? [quote name=Kranny' timestamp='1341596021' post='2081668] biggest one you can get from mechman or dc power or something similar to them. why do you want to tune your box to 25hz? And to Kranny, the box was made by a friend according to kickers recommended spec's for these subs or something. I'm planning on building a new box tuned to 32 hrtz. Any recommendations as to how big i should build the box for the amount of watts I'm putting to the subs and the tuning? I was thinking about 8 cubic feet with 125 sq in. of port area. And that's inner chamber cubic footage including all port and sub displacement.

Awesome thanks for the help guys!

Hey everyone, so the stock alternator in my 1998 4runner 3.4L V6 is not doing it for my system. I think it only runs like 70 amps max.. My lights dim a lot when i turn my subs up and my amp sometimes cuts off and starts blinking a yellow light on heavy mid notes then turns back on when notes return to lows and highs. From what I read that means I'm running low on voltage and need a new alt. Therefore, I'm looking for advice as to what high output alternator i should go for, I will list my current system specs and if anyone could point me in the direction of a good H.O. alt for my car & system that would be awesome! My budget is anywhere up to $800. My system currently consists of: Head unit: -Alpine IDA-X305 Sub Woofer: -Kicker zx2500.1 with 1/0 gauge wiring from batt. & ground running at 2 ohms -25 farad capasitor -2 kicker L7 15's -4.7 cu ft custom box tuned at 25 hrtz Speakers: -Alpine PDX-F4 with 8 gauge wiring from batt & ground -Alpine Type R spr-17c & spr-17s speakers Battery: -Toyota True 2 (0554-035T2-525) I will be installing the Big 3 upgrade along with my new H.O. Alternator.