korey_hofer
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Everything posted by korey_hofer
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sorry but what did you expect?
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worth the cost imo, keeps them more exclusive than other brands have become.
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if you have no local dealer call dd themselves 405-239-2800
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since the other thread got destroyed with useless info I decided to type this up quick. The reason you would want to know the “cabin peak” or resonant freq of your car could either be; you want to build a spl car and would like to know where to start your tuning at, or you are designing a box the correct way around your cabin geometry and acoustics. The easiest way to find out your resonant freq of your cabin is to use a flat responding box, flat responding in ½ space, place it in your cargo area where your sub will be facing the same way your sub will face. Then place meter sealed legal on dash. Then you will want to run single tones, not a sweep, until you find the loudest. Now if you’re wanting to know how your cabin responds to make a box around the acoustics it’s done differently, you will need same equipment as above but you will need to do a lot more work. Set it up same way as before, sealed legal on dash. Or if meter is the least of your worries as it should be put the meter in the listening position where ever your head is. You will need to take measurements inside of the car and outside as well, your outside measurements should be in a wide open area, no walls nearby, with the meter on a stand to middle of cone 3ft in front of cone use this graph to record the score in each category click You only have to record up to where your subs low pass is, remember the low pass is not a dead cut off but an attenuation by a set number of db’s most are 12db slope on mono amplifiers. So knowing that if you go past what your sub woofer will be crossed at you will end up building a big peak into your enclosure to only cross it out later. What you want to do is find the difference between the inside and outside scores. After you have all the info you want, it’s time to model your enclosure, a good free program is winisd. To model your enclosure you will need to know 3 things, the t/s parameters of the subwoofer(s) broken in t/s is best but pre broken in is better than nothing. The space available And the goal you have in mind After you enter the subwoofer data in and select the enclosure you want to design you will end up with a graph that shows the predicted response of your subwoofer and that box in ½ space. What you need to do to find out how it will act in your car is add the amount of difference in the 2 scores you got before to the graph. This will get you much much closer to getting an enclosure that works WITH your cabin and not fighting it. The last thing to remember is to make sure your subwoofers response will join the mids response so there are no dead octaves or lost notes in your music.
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check rear view mirror, and 145 out of the trunk is right where you should be with lvl5's louder subs I'd raise the bar a little but 145 is good place to be
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sounds about right to me
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SQ?
korey_hofer replied to jreese92's topic in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
only fosgates that I would recomend for sq are these -
SQ?
korey_hofer replied to jreese92's topic in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Why not? Rockford has nice components. I still think he needs an amp behind them though. trust me that stuff will not even get close in real SQ -
Its that time of night
korey_hofer replied to Forevrbumpn's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
9m won't go through the wall with enough force to ricochet off the ceiling or windows lol and how in the hell do you get a metal bullet to not break the window or go through sheet rock lmao -
Protein shake?
korey_hofer replied to Mattintc10's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
I'm in the same position as david except I'm in my early 20's I have been reading a ton on the body building forums section but seams they just go in circles there -
Believe it or not SQ guys don't waste their money on a ton of deadener. The guys i talk to only use what is necessary which is surprisingly less than most acknowledge. Something to the effect of, anything more than 30% of a panel covered is a waste of CLD and multi layers of anything is like gluing money to the panels of the car. Deadener is only for large panels. The rest can actually be cheap. I are sq guy, if you are using your doors as an enclosure you need a shit ton of deadener to make it 100% stiff so it doesn't resonate and cloud your midbass
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the biggest thing in sq is treating the car you need a metric ton of deadener and mlv and foam