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About rambronco

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    California, bay area
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    car audio

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  1. You've got the cone area, IMO youd be better giving up some ratio for it to dig down nice and low.
  2. I am not an expert on the matter but have built a few. I think your sealed side is going to be too small for 4 18's and that is going to hurt your low frequency response. It would be best if you could get your hands on some box build software WinIsd is good, been using it for years but it will really give you an idea of what your response is going to look like.
  3. Oh wow. Thanks for sharing, I mean its Steve Mantz, I'd probably let him touch more than just my amplifier haha. I was a little skeptical, kinda seems like that would be beneath him for some reason. pretty excited, and he's in CA. perfect. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again Rich
  4. I'm curious your ideas on if this will work or not. My thoughts for getting more cone area is to build a 4th OBP with 15's & 18's I would keep the sealed side separated and still make the ported section common. The subs are similar designs with relatively close xmax (Sundown Z18v4's and sundown X-15's) currently I have the Z18's walled in an extra cab which would switch to a blow through. Also thought about walling the 15's and doing a blowthrough fir the 18's and bring the 4th order port on the same plane as the walled 15's. My mids and tweets play just fine with my windows up or down (like a leaky 4th order would be) which makes me think the different cone sizes wont be as much of an issue as people make it out to be?
  5. Personally I would hunt down a set of 3way passive crossovers of decent quality and then purchase raw drivers, you can make a pretty nice set of 3 way components relatively inexpensive.
  6. As Im sure many of you have done, I purchased an Amp off Ebay and once it was installed found the seller wasn't truthful about the item. Unfortunately its a large amp so basically my install was built around the amp and by the time I found out it was past the timeline to be able to do anything about it through Ebay. The amp is an Ampere Audio 9.0 and im hoping to find somewhere somewhat local (Central Ca.) to get it fixed. All of the Output transistors are fried on it. I am hoping to find a company that repairs amps but if there is an individual that does it with enough reputation that is fine too. I'm really trying to avoid "My best friends sister, cousin, boyfriend knows a guy who actually took a semester of basic electronics at night at the junior college, and he said he can handle it no problem" Any info is appreciated.
  7. I Dont Know how deaf I am, but lets say pretty deaf. I have an 01 Silverado I went with #3 in my truck with some car audio/pro audio equipment and am happy with the results. I run a Pioneer 80PRS which although not as powerful as the DSP units you mentioned does everything I need it to do - Full active, Time alignment, full EQ. Now ive heard better sounding vehicles, and am hoping to make one with a build I am working on in the Family truck. But the truck is really loud and clear. Now my 01 is a beater truck so I didnt make everything pretty with the install and the there will be a huge difference in cost between #2 & #3 Labor wise, if you want to keep it looking stock-ish or in really nice condition, but the audio equipment will be cheaper so may be a wash there. I did an install on my buddies 07 silverado extra cab and was shocked at how little room there was for the equipment (Subs/amps) so def look into that as 1 of your first areas to come up with a plan. Either way can be equally good but a lot of it comes down to you having a plan of knowing what you want as the end result and then see what the budget/space ect will allow.
  8. You will be less likely to clip the signal with +3 on the passive and flat on the eq. I always prefer to to take peaks out with the eq rather than boost any of the frequencies, thats not always an option but its the game plan i always start with.
  9. I know the title is kinda vague but seemed fitting. Ok to start of the main part of this post is going to be to discuss a pair of Rainbow W130 SLC component speakers I purchased recently. Ive been in this hobby for a long time now (going on 30 years, wow when I actually see that in print.......) and didn't think there were any/many things that could really make me go wow anymore. I set up a test bench a few years back and I dabble with different mids, tweets, woofers ect. I have heard a lot of great sounding cars over the years attending events or friends vehicles. I have made the natural progression from SPL to SQ but have never had a "great" sounding car. To this day one of the best sounding (Not loud enough for my liking) cars was my wifes 2010 Volvo C70 Hard top convertible with the Dynaudio premium sound. Its because of that car that I purchase Dynaudio speakers. On my test bench their Midrange speakers are the most natural ive heard and lean towards the 8" over the 6.5" in terms of uncolored and natural sounding. I found a good deal on Ebay for a 5.25" component set of Rainbow W130 SLC minus the x-overs. I am in the process of building my first "great sounding" vehicle, that, and the fact that im a sucker for a good deal purchased them. When I finally got around to throwing them on the test bench I am in the process of trying to put together a nice 3 way set up front and have decided the Dynaudio 8" and either the DLS UP1C tweeters or the Dynaudio out of the Volvo's (which I believe is a MD102 but have not been able to confirm yet) I will have to spend some time listening to both. Still haven't decided what midrange will be used, this is where the Rainbows come in. I started playing around with x-over points and a little EQing and at that point I turned them off-axis. Now over the years ive heard people talk about the imaging of this set vs that set and to be perfectly honest I thought it was 100% in the install (position, eq, delay, ect) I know speakers sound very different but I did not think imaging was a "Characteristic of a speaker" until now. Im not sure what makes these speakers so different, it cant be the size of the wave, I have tried other 5.25" in the same spot. Now these speakers sound good on-axis, very natural and uncolored, they are not the best ive heard and will say I prefer the Dyns sound over them but when I turned them off-axis its like these speakers are a ventriloquist, the image sounds like its being projected 3 feet towards the center, Ive never seen (or should I say heard lol) anything like it. Have any of you guys had similar experiences? I also realized during this just how much different speakers of the same size and "Advertised quality" can sound. I have a pair of upper end Arc audio 5.25" and I have to be honest I think they are very unnatural sounding speakers, that said I have not hooked them up to there X-overs yet but just playing them flat there is so much emphasis on the upper frequencies, its wild. Long drawn out post that I will stop babbling about now.
  10. I would say it depends on how much power you have going to it. If your going to running close to full RMS power to it youll want to keep the box on tbe smaller side 5 - 5.5 cu ft with whatever ratio you decide for the ported side. If the sub will be used gently make it a bit bigger if you have room 6 - 7.5 cu ft. Just remember that anything done on the sealed side needs to be changed accordingly on the ported side (bigger sealed means bigger ported side of you are trying to hit a specific ratio.
  11. Well it arrived, a big "E" in front of the 34230 model number 2-8ohm clear as day on the serial tag. I removed the back and found (insert drum roll here) it' exactly the same, oh and it doesn' work lol. Every piece inside is the same as all the others, I can only guess that the E's are earlier models, not necessarily that E stands for Early but it did have a lower serial number than my other 3. Only a guess but maybe when first introduced they were 2 ohm stable and they had a lot of warranties and changed them to 4 ohm? It is a true dual mono so not bridgeable, I was hoping to have found something really cool. Actually to me a functional 34230 is cool, I hooked this one to the test bench and the power light illuminated for just a second and then off, stays like that unless you discharge the caps, then the light will light for a second, if the caps are charged you get zilch when you connect power.....bummer. Just thought I'd update you on what I found
  12. No, a lot of amps have multiple terminals even though they are mono. You can have multiples coming from the amp but they are all connected internally. So amp yes all together, box just depends how you wired it, sorry for the confusion.
  13. I own 3 eclipse 34230 (beastly amp ESP considering they are almost 20 years old now) 370x2 @ 4ohm only, non-bridgeable. I just bought an E34230 on eBay, same 100a fuse rating, gonna guess the same footprint but the sticker on the back shows 2-8ohm, going to guess it' bridgeable. Ive only ever seen 1 other (Kinda had to buy it, right? Lol) anyone ever seen any literature on one of these? Thanks
  14. It Looks good as far as I can tell. It is normal for the positive of the slave amp to be used as the negative. If the amps are mono then it doesnt matter how many terminals are used as they will be connected internally. Check the DC resistance of your subs (They are wired in a series/parallel configuration so it should be 2 ohms, wont be exact but should be close, double check just to be sure). RB
  15. The efficincy of the amp may change a bit going from .6 to 1.3 for the better but not much. Current draw won' change much volts x amps = watts however you want to spin it so the electrical will still see the same load (give or take a little in either direction) but your amp/s will be much happier 2 amps splitting the duty will allow them to generate less heat which in the long run will make them last longer but at the expense of a second amp so you have to decide if that is worth it.
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