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About rambronco

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    California, bay area
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    car audio

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  1. Well I didn’t end up adding anything (yet lol) if you take the build out of the picture is running a remote box just for airspace a viable option? If so are there things that need to addressed? My thought process on this and it may be completely irrelevant but seems as though there may be an issue with whatever is used to connect the 2 airspace’s (pvc or abs) if the area between the 2 airspace’s is smaller than the port area?
  2. I'm trying to figure out what I can fit into my build. currently I have 2 Sundown Zv4 18's walled on about 12-15k watts in my extra cab Chevy. Like any good basshead I am trying to add more lol. Looking to do a center console box, I already have subs. I have 2 soundqubed HDC3 12's and enough room to make that work. I also have 2 DD 9515 that I would rather use but dont have the space. could PVC be used to couple the console to say, a box mounted in the bed of the truck? Seems as though this should work but wondering if there are certain things that need to be taken into account? Things like surface area of the connecting PVC, does actual port area come into play? Are there any Losses that have to be factored in? Would the remote box have to be equal, smaller, larger than the primary box? Thanks RB
  3. You've got the cone area, IMO youd be better giving up some ratio for it to dig down nice and low.
  4. I am not an expert on the matter but have built a few. I think your sealed side is going to be too small for 4 18's and that is going to hurt your low frequency response. It would be best if you could get your hands on some box build software WinIsd is good, been using it for years but it will really give you an idea of what your response is going to look like.
  5. Oh wow. Thanks for sharing, I mean its Steve Mantz, I'd probably let him touch more than just my amplifier haha. I was a little skeptical, kinda seems like that would be beneath him for some reason. pretty excited, and he's in CA. perfect. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again Rich
  6. I'm curious your ideas on if this will work or not. My thoughts for getting more cone area is to build a 4th OBP with 15's & 18's I would keep the sealed side separated and still make the ported section common. The subs are similar designs with relatively close xmax (Sundown Z18v4's and sundown X-15's) currently I have the Z18's walled in an extra cab which would switch to a blow through. Also thought about walling the 15's and doing a blowthrough fir the 18's and bring the 4th order port on the same plane as the walled 15's. My mids and tweets play just fine with my windows up or down (like a leaky 4th order would be) which makes me think the different cone sizes wont be as much of an issue as people make it out to be?
  7. Personally I would hunt down a set of 3way passive crossovers of decent quality and then purchase raw drivers, you can make a pretty nice set of 3 way components relatively inexpensive.
  8. As Im sure many of you have done, I purchased an Amp off Ebay and once it was installed found the seller wasn't truthful about the item. Unfortunately its a large amp so basically my install was built around the amp and by the time I found out it was past the timeline to be able to do anything about it through Ebay. The amp is an Ampere Audio 9.0 and im hoping to find somewhere somewhat local (Central Ca.) to get it fixed. All of the Output transistors are fried on it. I am hoping to find a company that repairs amps but if there is an individual that does it with enough reputation that is fine too. I'm really trying to avoid "My best friends sister, cousin, boyfriend knows a guy who actually took a semester of basic electronics at night at the junior college, and he said he can handle it no problem" Any info is appreciated.
  9. I would say it depends on how much power you have going to it. If your going to running close to full RMS power to it youll want to keep the box on tbe smaller side 5 - 5.5 cu ft with whatever ratio you decide for the ported side. If the sub will be used gently make it a bit bigger if you have room 6 - 7.5 cu ft. Just remember that anything done on the sealed side needs to be changed accordingly on the ported side (bigger sealed means bigger ported side of you are trying to hit a specific ratio.
  10. The main thing to remember is that amp manufacturers #1 goal is to make money, that's hard to do when you have a lot of warranty claims or for people to stop buying their product due to a bad rap of reliability. For the average consumer a car audio system is buying an amp having it installed and that's it. Often times the install is not enough to sufficiently power the amp at it's rated power wired to manufacturers specs. Top that with the fact that 90% of people won't do any type of electrical upgrades. You being on this site already takes you out of the 90% group and puts you into the 10% who are active car audio enthusiasts, where most will have made improvements to the electrical environment of their vehicle. There are 4 things regardless of impedance that need to be addressed and far more important when trying to do what you are asking. 1. Adequate electrical both for power and the negative ground side. 2. A clean audio signal 3. Keep the amp from clipping (which isn't always due to a dirty audio signal). 4. Heat. Take 2 identical amps and give 1 a healthy electrical supply and the other a sub standard supply. Run them at top of their rated power and you will notice that the amp with the adequate power supply will run much cooler even though both are putting out the same amount of power. Most amps have thermal protection but don't rely on it, if constantly shutting down due to thermal it won't last long, even though considered "protection" at that temperature the electrical components are degrading at a very slow pace. Every amp will have a threshold of where damage will occur from too low of an impedance but keeping the 4 items listed above in check most amplifiers will live happily at half (and often times even lower) of the manufacturers spec. Some people will disagree but there are many people out there that run their equipment below specs everyday in their daily rigs.
  11. I started a build log and life threw a wrench in those plans as often times happens and have not had any time to work on it, that should all change shortly. I thought I had all of my equipment picked out and then Something caught my eye on ebay, just picked up 3 Clif Design amps CD-860HC, CD-500A, and a 200A. I know its not the same company as the old school stuff and there really isnt that much info out there, as far as I can tell (fingers crossed) those amps are from one of the workhorse lines and hopefully do rated. I know physical size and fuse ratings only tell so much but the High current model is internally fused with 6X 40 amp fuses and is over 2 feet long. Those 3 will end up taking over my front stage duties in the tahoe, I may still have to run 1 MB Quart, depends on the final layout. RB
  12. Ok, so captain obvious here didnt see that this was pretty well dead a long time ago.......my apologies
  13. Thank you for the link, I will get it Dl'd and put my numbers together when finished your more than welcome to take a look, it would be appreciated .
  14. I'm not going to disagree with the majority, but I will say a lower impedance is similar to over powering subs. Some people will time and again blow subs by over powering them and yet some people do it day in and day out without problems. So what's the difference? The person behind the knob. If you are smart about it and first keep your voltage above 12v (very important) so no playing with the vehicle off, secondly don't continue to do more and more with the gains, that it's a for sure way to kill it, don't take the amp to the clipping levels. I'm not saying that your amp will survive but you are the biggest key component to whether or not your amp has a chance.
  15. For some reason my vent mach isnt working in Win Isd, I may just try and update or remove & reinstall
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