Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About rambronco

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    California, bay area
  • Interests
    car audio

Recent Profile Visitors

2,140 profile views
  1. I would say it depends on how much power you have going to it. If your going to running close to full RMS power to it youll want to keep the box on tbe smaller side 5 - 5.5 cu ft with whatever ratio you decide for the ported side. If the sub will be used gently make it a bit bigger if you have room 6 - 7.5 cu ft. Just remember that anything done on the sealed side needs to be changed accordingly on the ported side (bigger sealed means bigger ported side of you are trying to hit a specific ratio.
  2. rambronco

    Eclipse "E" series E34230

    Well it arrived, a big "E" in front of the 34230 model number 2-8ohm clear as day on the serial tag. I removed the back and found (insert drum roll here) it' exactly the same, oh and it doesn' work lol. Every piece inside is the same as all the others, I can only guess that the E's are earlier models, not necessarily that E stands for Early but it did have a lower serial number than my other 3. Only a guess but maybe when first introduced they were 2 ohm stable and they had a lot of warranties and changed them to 4 ohm? It is a true dual mono so not bridgeable, I was hoping to have found something really cool. Actually to me a functional 34230 is cool, I hooked this one to the test bench and the power light illuminated for just a second and then off, stays like that unless you discharge the caps, then the light will light for a second, if the caps are charged you get zilch when you connect power.....bummer. Just thought I'd update you on what I found
  3. rambronco

    Strapped Amps Wiring Correction?

    No, a lot of amps have multiple terminals even though they are mono. You can have multiples coming from the amp but they are all connected internally. So amp yes all together, box just depends how you wired it, sorry for the confusion.
  4. rambronco

    Eclipse "E" series E34230

    I own 3 eclipse 34230 (beastly amp ESP considering they are almost 20 years old now) 370x2 @ 4ohm only, non-bridgeable. I just bought an E34230 on eBay, same 100a fuse rating, gonna guess the same footprint but the sticker on the back shows 2-8ohm, going to guess it' bridgeable. Ive only ever seen 1 other (Kinda had to buy it, right? Lol) anyone ever seen any literature on one of these? Thanks
  5. rambronco

    Strapped Amps Wiring Correction?

    It Looks good as far as I can tell. It is normal for the positive of the slave amp to be used as the negative. If the amps are mono then it doesnt matter how many terminals are used as they will be connected internally. Check the DC resistance of your subs (They are wired in a series/parallel configuration so it should be 2 ohms, wont be exact but should be close, double check just to be sure). RB
  6. rambronco

    Strapping amp ?

    The efficincy of the amp may change a bit going from .6 to 1.3 for the better but not much. Current draw won' change much volts x amps = watts however you want to spin it so the electrical will still see the same load (give or take a little in either direction) but your amp/s will be much happier 2 amps splitting the duty will allow them to generate less heat which in the long run will make them last longer but at the expense of a second amp so you have to decide if that is worth it.
  7. To add on to one of the comments of the system sounding better with 2 ohm vs 1 ohm, damping factor comes into play. If unfamiliar, damping factor is the ability of the amplifier to start and stop I.E. change directions of the subwoofer cone, damping factor will be higher when run at 2ohm over 1ohm, that is with the same amplifier running 1 or 2 ohm. You mentioned different equipment so that may not be as much of a factor if brand X starts off with better damping than brand Y it may end up that the amp running 1 ohm still has a higher damping factor but it' something to keep in mind. Personally I like to run too large of an amp for headroom, I believe that the least amount of strain on the amp fives the best sound quality. To touch on "Crazy 8's Drum" comment about people who do SPL. It takes all kinds to make the world go round, just because you choose not to do SPL you automatically say that those people are wrong. I say you do your thing and I'll do mine and if it' left at that we can all get along, why people think that because they see things 1 way, they believe that everyone else should see it that way is beyond me, have fun doing what you do and let others have fun doing what they do.
  8. Is that to say when the cord for the bass knob is wiggled at the amp plug? Try to secure it at the amp so the plug cannot move and then wiggle the rest of the harness to see if it still makes noise, will at least narrow down where the issue is. I've had one bass knob that would make noise anytime it was adjusted, it was the potentiometer in the knob itself in my case.
  9. IMHO, more is better. If your going to push it to its max you'll most likely end up with a hotter coil by feeding it 1600-2000 watts at clipping than you would with 2500-3000 of clean power. Either way orient the subs so that it is possible to smell the coils. My .02 RB
  10. And that is why I come to you guys with my questions. As soon as I read that it was like a forehead slap moment lol. Thanks to all who replied. RB
  11. Ok, so I know this question gets asked all the time but this is a little different, not the usual "should I or shouldn't I". I've been in this game a very long time and feel that I should actually know the answer to this, but I don't so here we are. Just for sake of this post I'll use a 5k watt amp as our piece in question. If that amp is rated to do 5k at 1ohm and is only stable to 1ohm by the manufacture is it any harder on the amp to do 5k watts at 1/2ohm? Trying to get an answer that doesn't use any variables other than final impedance of the amp. My gut instinct is that there is no difference until pushing the amp to make more power. I realize that there are changes needed as far as electrical current demand goes I.E. lower A/C voltage but higher Current draw with a lower impedance and vice versa for higher impedence but just not sure if that equates to more stress on the amp. Thanks RB
  12. rambronco

    Amplifier inputs 2 Chan vs mono

    I would definitely run a Y splitter that way you know you are getting the same signal to both amps. Also what I would recommend is use a multi meter set to AC volts and plug it in to the speaker outputs (you can do this with the speakers connected or disconnected, connected will give a more accurate reading) find a test tone in the frequency your subs play (you want a test tone, like a 50hz constant tone so that the output voltage is nice and steady) and see what the actual voltage is as you progressively turn up the volume at each amp. You said they were set with a scope but if the scope was just used to take both to clipping, they could clip at slightly different power. Set the gains to the lower voltage of the 2 amps if you do find a difference, that way you are not clipping. If you find that the voltages don't match very well there isn't much that can be done. You can set the voltages equal at the highest level and know they are good for max output. Go back to a mono amp, or a multi amp strappable setup. Hope that helps RB
  13. rambronco

    Amp repair in CA Bay Area?

    I have a Lanzar Opti 7001D that still plays but clips at higher listening levels and was hoping to find someone local that might be able to repair it. If anyone knows of such a place or an individual that does that any info would be appreciated. Thanks RB
  14. The main thing to remember is that amp manufacturers #1 goal is to make money, that's hard to do when you have a lot of warranty claims or for people to stop buying their product due to a bad rap of reliability. For the average consumer a car audio system is buying an amp having it installed and that's it. Often times the install is not enough to sufficiently power the amp at it's rated power wired to manufacturers specs. Top that with the fact that 90% of people won't do any type of electrical upgrades. You being on this site already takes you out of the 90% group and puts you into the 10% who are active car audio enthusiasts, where most will have made improvements to the electrical environment of their vehicle. There are 4 things regardless of impedance that need to be addressed and far more important when trying to do what you are asking. 1. Adequate electrical both for power and the negative ground side. 2. A clean audio signal 3. Keep the amp from clipping (which isn't always due to a dirty audio signal). 4. Heat. Take 2 identical amps and give 1 a healthy electrical supply and the other a sub standard supply. Run them at top of their rated power and you will notice that the amp with the adequate power supply will run much cooler even though both are putting out the same amount of power. Most amps have thermal protection but don't rely on it, if constantly shutting down due to thermal it won't last long, even though considered "protection" at that temperature the electrical components are degrading at a very slow pace. Every amp will have a threshold of where damage will occur from too low of an impedance but keeping the 4 items listed above in check most amplifiers will live happily at half (and often times even lower) of the manufacturers spec. Some people will disagree but there are many people out there that run their equipment below specs everyday in their daily rigs.