Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About rambronco

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    California, bay area
  • Interests
    car audio

Recent Profile Visitors

2,012 profile views
  1. Strapping amp ?

    The efficincy of the amp may change a bit going from .6 to 1.3 for the better but not much. Current draw won' change much volts x amps = watts however you want to spin it so the electrical will still see the same load (give or take a little in either direction) but your amp/s will be much happier 2 amps splitting the duty will allow them to generate less heat which in the long run will make them last longer but at the expense of a second amp so you have to decide if that is worth it.
  2. To add on to one of the comments of the system sounding better with 2 ohm vs 1 ohm, damping factor comes into play. If unfamiliar, damping factor is the ability of the amplifier to start and stop I.E. change directions of the subwoofer cone, damping factor will be higher when run at 2ohm over 1ohm, that is with the same amplifier running 1 or 2 ohm. You mentioned different equipment so that may not be as much of a factor if brand X starts off with better damping than brand Y it may end up that the amp running 1 ohm still has a higher damping factor but it' something to keep in mind. Personally I like to run too large of an amp for headroom, I believe that the least amount of strain on the amp fives the best sound quality. To touch on "Crazy 8's Drum" comment about people who do SPL. It takes all kinds to make the world go round, just because you choose not to do SPL you automatically say that those people are wrong. I say you do your thing and I'll do mine and if it' left at that we can all get along, why people think that because they see things 1 way, they believe that everyone else should see it that way is beyond me, have fun doing what you do and let others have fun doing what they do.
  3. Is that to say when the cord for the bass knob is wiggled at the amp plug? Try to secure it at the amp so the plug cannot move and then wiggle the rest of the harness to see if it still makes noise, will at least narrow down where the issue is. I've had one bass knob that would make noise anytime it was adjusted, it was the potentiometer in the knob itself in my case.
  4. IMHO, more is better. If your going to push it to its max you'll most likely end up with a hotter coil by feeding it 1600-2000 watts at clipping than you would with 2500-3000 of clean power. Either way orient the subs so that it is possible to smell the coils. My .02 RB
  5. And that is why I come to you guys with my questions. As soon as I read that it was like a forehead slap moment lol. Thanks to all who replied. RB
  6. Ok, so I know this question gets asked all the time but this is a little different, not the usual "should I or shouldn't I". I've been in this game a very long time and feel that I should actually know the answer to this, but I don't so here we are. Just for sake of this post I'll use a 5k watt amp as our piece in question. If that amp is rated to do 5k at 1ohm and is only stable to 1ohm by the manufacture is it any harder on the amp to do 5k watts at 1/2ohm? Trying to get an answer that doesn't use any variables other than final impedance of the amp. My gut instinct is that there is no difference until pushing the amp to make more power. I realize that there are changes needed as far as electrical current demand goes I.E. lower A/C voltage but higher Current draw with a lower impedance and vice versa for higher impedence but just not sure if that equates to more stress on the amp. Thanks RB
  7. Amplifier inputs 2 Chan vs mono

    I would definitely run a Y splitter that way you know you are getting the same signal to both amps. Also what I would recommend is use a multi meter set to AC volts and plug it in to the speaker outputs (you can do this with the speakers connected or disconnected, connected will give a more accurate reading) find a test tone in the frequency your subs play (you want a test tone, like a 50hz constant tone so that the output voltage is nice and steady) and see what the actual voltage is as you progressively turn up the volume at each amp. You said they were set with a scope but if the scope was just used to take both to clipping, they could clip at slightly different power. Set the gains to the lower voltage of the 2 amps if you do find a difference, that way you are not clipping. If you find that the voltages don't match very well there isn't much that can be done. You can set the voltages equal at the highest level and know they are good for max output. Go back to a mono amp, or a multi amp strappable setup. Hope that helps RB
  8. Amp repair in CA Bay Area?

    I have a Lanzar Opti 7001D that still plays but clips at higher listening levels and was hoping to find someone local that might be able to repair it. If anyone knows of such a place or an individual that does that any info would be appreciated. Thanks RB
  9. The main thing to remember is that amp manufacturers #1 goal is to make money, that's hard to do when you have a lot of warranty claims or for people to stop buying their product due to a bad rap of reliability. For the average consumer a car audio system is buying an amp having it installed and that's it. Often times the install is not enough to sufficiently power the amp at it's rated power wired to manufacturers specs. Top that with the fact that 90% of people won't do any type of electrical upgrades. You being on this site already takes you out of the 90% group and puts you into the 10% who are active car audio enthusiasts, where most will have made improvements to the electrical environment of their vehicle. There are 4 things regardless of impedance that need to be addressed and far more important when trying to do what you are asking. 1. Adequate electrical both for power and the negative ground side. 2. A clean audio signal 3. Keep the amp from clipping (which isn't always due to a dirty audio signal). 4. Heat. Take 2 identical amps and give 1 a healthy electrical supply and the other a sub standard supply. Run them at top of their rated power and you will notice that the amp with the adequate power supply will run much cooler even though both are putting out the same amount of power. Most amps have thermal protection but don't rely on it, if constantly shutting down due to thermal it won't last long, even though considered "protection" at that temperature the electrical components are degrading at a very slow pace. Every amp will have a threshold of where damage will occur from too low of an impedance but keeping the 4 items listed above in check most amplifiers will live happily at half (and often times even lower) of the manufacturers spec. Some people will disagree but there are many people out there that run their equipment below specs everyday in their daily rigs.
  10. Korean vs Brazilian

    I have heard the term Korean and Brazilian amps for some time now. I am not really in the market for a big amp ATM (currently running an Opti 7001D) but like audio and try and keep up. I was looking at some Brazilian amps (Teramps & Stetsom) and something jumped out at me "The Weight" a 15k teramps weighs in at approx 20lbs whereas my Opti which does half the power weighs about twice as much. Is this where the Korean and Brazilian come into play meanin 2 totally different amplifier designs? Thanks RB
  11. I started a build log and life threw a wrench in those plans as often times happens and have not had any time to work on it, that should all change shortly. I thought I had all of my equipment picked out and then Something caught my eye on ebay, just picked up 3 Clif Design amps CD-860HC, CD-500A, and a 200A. I know its not the same company as the old school stuff and there really isnt that much info out there, as far as I can tell (fingers crossed) those amps are from one of the workhorse lines and hopefully do rated. I know physical size and fuse ratings only tell so much but the High current model is internally fused with 6X 40 amp fuses and is over 2 feet long. Those 3 will end up taking over my front stage duties in the tahoe, I may still have to run 1 MB Quart, depends on the final layout. RB
  12. You guys are missing an item here, car audio manufactures build equipment to make sales. Do you really think they care enough about the consumer to come up with a feature that reduces the amount of failures due to bad installation and people that dont know better? I think not. Even though an amplifier is dumb there are still ways to help failsafe the system but I just dont see that happening anytime soon.
  13. Mids weight?

    My mids weigh in right at 6 pounds each, emminence Beta6A
  14. looking for a class ab minimum 1500 watt rms amp.

    Richard Clark was his name, and was the king of SQ back in the day with his grand national. I too have been looking at big class AB amps. Now back in the day Orion and PPI were my favorite amps and neither company is what they used to be. Might want to take a look at the new Orion's, there are 2 different lines, XTR & HCCA that have some large multi channel AB's, some of them being CEA-2006 compliant. As mentioned not the quality company they used to be but maybe worth a look. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Orion-XTR2000-4-4-Channel-4000W-XTR-Series-A-B-Car-Power-Stereo-Amplifier-/331185150376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1c2c59a8 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Orion-HCCA2000-4-2000-4-2000W-4-Channel-Car-Audio-Competition-Amplifier-Amp-HCCA/281605818878?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D8113f4fadb274061a886b1236deee55b%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D331185150376 http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORION-HCCA4000-2H-8000W-2-CHANNEL-CLASS-A-B-HIGH-CURRENT-CLASS-H-COMPETITION-AMP-/171685307943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f93de627&vxp=mtr