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Found 25 results

  1. Back with a new car, and a new build. 2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback will be the new canvas. And here is the Sub! DC Audio Level 4 12 D1 with direct leads, carbon fiber cap, and candy red basket: So far I have designed a box in WINISD and Torres to come up with a 2.5 ft^3 Net box with a 22" long 6" aero port (Big Ass Port.) I will post up screenshots from each program to get a second look at the specs in the box building section. Plan is to hook this bad boy up to my Rockford Fosgate T1500bdcp at 2 ohms, providing 1500 watts at a slightly higher efficiency than the amp provides at 1 ohm. For the doors so far, we have some SSA Evil 6.5s tucked in with some NVX deadener and Stinger FAST Rings. Doors are definitely not complete, but it's a start. Evils vs stock speakers: This will be a slow build, but it's going to get exciting, so stay tuned!
  2. whats up fam. so heres a quick run down of my system. not a trunk build, not a wall, just a simple ugly back seat build lol i am a construction electrician with my trunk almost always full with tools and material for work. only other spot to fit a sub box with out doing a wall is my back seat. i just need some bass! not really going for looks. ive had some pictures on what i had before (just went from a skar evl15 to a dc xl15 and sae1500 to a dc 2k) so here are some recent pics... hope you guys enjoy... i personally did the big3 with sky high 1/0 up front and ran power from front stock battery to rear full throttle group 34. messed up by getting a blue big 3 kit instead of red lol oh well. heres what it looked like before i swapped out the sae1500. the rest of the wiring was done by arden audio in sacramento. when i went home and did a lil inspection i have noticed the ground going to the 4ch amp was just self tapped in with 3 screws on the frame of the vehicle. wasnt too happy about it so instead of complaining i just went ahead and fixed it. both grounds are now sharing an existing grounding point directly under the driver seat. everything else was fine, thanks arden audio! and heres the box just sitting on the back seat haha
  3. My good friend Aaron, aka Psyph Morrison, has never had a real system in any of his cars before. If you don't know who Psyph is (pronounced Sife), look him up on itunes, spotify or any other music app out there. Youtube as well. I have known him over 10 years and even worked with him on his last 3 albums as an executive producer. Ok, now that is out of the way, the reason he is getting a system is because well, the entire time i have known him and worked with him making music, especially music with a lot of bass, he has never had a system of his own. I don't know anyone who has had more car issues than him so we really never made it to the discussion of a system. Not too long ago he picked up a 2002 Honda Accord 4 door. I knew right then he has a reliable vehicle finally. So i offered to slap some beat in it for him. Watching him pull up, slapping his own music in a (not so great) stock sound system was really bothering me. How can my boy ride around like that if he know's ME? Long story cut short...his car is at my shop for a few weeks while i figure out what i am going to do. I have NO "plans". I just want to get him some good equipment, set it up proper and make him happy! ****NOTE, anything you see here is subject to change as i am totally freestyling this. Trying to just make it work. First i stopped by Arden Audio in Sacramento Ca. They always have what i need in stock over there and if they don't i can get it same or next day. I decided to pick Psyph up a new head unit first and foremost. I also got the dash kit and wiring harness to go with it. Grabbed some SkyHigh 16ga OFC speaker wire to run to the doors. The system will consist of (so far) Pioneer DEH X7800 BHS Head Unit Rockford Fosgate Punch 1000.1 (BASS) Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.2 (Highs) (2) Rockford Fosgate P3 12" subs (ported enclosure) (1) Set Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" separates SMD Fuse / Grounding Blocks Mechman 1/0 OFC Power Wire Skyhigh 12 and 16ga Speaker Wire I already had a P300.2 but i got him a matching 1000.1 to go with it. These P3 12" subs are not brand new but might as well be. They are in brand new condition! They are my old ones. This box was already finished and just hanging around the shop. I KNOW it sounds good so it should do great in his trunk! The trunk floor is at an angle so i have to make a platform and flatten it out some so the box sits level.
  4. whats up smd! its been a good while. feels good to be getting back into car audio, the hobby that made me into a commercial/industrial electrician. the last system i had was in a 98 oldsmobile intrigue with a single 15" in the trunk. first was obsidian audio on a hifonics brz1200, then went with a skar vvx 15 after that. ive had other equipment before those, played around with jl, sundown, audioque, t3 audio compnents, hertz speakers... so that was like 5 years ago. had to sell everything because we were in need of money. our first child was going to be born soon and i was the main person bringing in income working at ace hardware. well, now, thanks to the love of car audio, i signed up for an electrical apprenticeship program here in california and started my career as a general electrician. needed more than 12v sparks in my face lmao. finished the 5 years as an apprentice, took the state exam and passed! officially a certified general electrician. i currently work for anderson pacific as a journeyman electrician in the bay area. but anyways, enough of my history. i want to build! so i have somewhat an idea of what im looking to get for my 2012 honda accord. i commute a lot! ha so this will mainly be a daily setup. maybe compete just for giggles in the near future. because of my job and not owning/commuting in a pickup i need my trunk space. all of it haha. and also would like to have my spare tire easily accessible. so that being said i am willing to sacrifice my rear seats for the sub(s). im only keeping one seat available for a car seat but the rest will be used to fit a box. so i have something like 25"w 24"h 18"d to work with. i already have a pioneer deh-80prs installed and replaced the stock front speakers with a set of skar TX65C and the rear with a pair of skar fsx 6.5s. yup, i think im going with skar all around. i had good experience with their sub and components in the past. and theyre very reasonably priced for what you get. unless someone can persuade me to go with others lol... i will be running the stock alt for now (130a) thinking about getting a mechman later on. 1-xs power d3400r for the front 1-xs power xp3000 for the back with that im hoping to supply a skar rp2000.1 and possibly a sk100.4 already stated what i have for mids n highs a single zvx15 ported @ 33hz or 2- evl12s @ 32hz (i know go with the 2 12s more cone area.. but idk something about having a 15..) will be all sky high wiring and sound deadening (had some left over knu deadening from prior build that i put on the front doors.) big 3 of course w/ 1/0 and im sure there will be more as we go on. theres always more lol so what you think? just something simple for daily. my old lady is giving me a budget of 3k lol less is better tho. any recommendations, suggestions, comments, thoughts, some schooling would be grrreat! heres a simple box design i was messing around with on torres and sketchup. 4cu ft after all displacements including fiberglass. tuned @ 33hz. will be 3- 4" aero's thats it haha sorry didnt get a chance to get any pics of the speakers. i will next time around when i open up the door panels again. same for the rear deck. thanks guys...
  5. Need advice on finding somewhere to buy a high output alternator for a 95 Honda Accord Lx, has the f22b2 engine in it and the stock alternator has 80 amps, looking for a place to get a alternator that has 250amps if I am correct. I already have the big 3 done, running ofc wire from front of car to rear ~17 ft Db Drive 2000.1 for subwoofer Rocford Fosgate R250x4 Prime 4-Channel Amp for doors currently
  6. 2Loud @ Virginia Tech 2Loud @ Virginia Tech is a student run car audio competition team Mission: Our mission is to promote audio engineering at the college level. How we complete our mission: Our hand on experience with car audio equipment will provide our members with a better understanding of audio engineering. Goal: Our goal is to design, build, test, and tune a car audio system for Sound Pressure Level (SPL) Competition. Approach: First, we will define our constraints for competition (i.e. Cost, Class of competition, and number of woofers, etc). Using programs such as AutoCAD, Inventor, and Torres Box Tuning Calculator, we will design a speaker enclosure. Once an optimal enclosure is designed, we will construct the box. We will install the box, speakers, and amplifiers accordingly. When the system is in, we will test the system for optimal tuning and SPL output. Finally, we will take our car to compete in car audio competitions. Vehicle: 1990 Honda Civic DX Hatch The car was purchased by the members, for the members. Upgrades to the vehicle as of now: Pioneer MVH Headunit Sony XSGS 6.5” Speakers Front Sony XSGS 6x9” Speakers Rear Big 3 upgrade with XS Power 1/0 cable 1 run of 1/0 NVX OFC wire to the rear Secondary Knetik HC1200 Battery Stinger 5 Farad Capacitor Stinger Volt Meter 12" Alpine Type X Subwoofer (not for use in competition) Atrend Prefab Ported box (not for use in competition) Alpine PDX1000.1 Amp (not for use in competition) Planned competition for this semester: Compete in the IASCA/IdBL Car SPL competition -Class 1 competition Hatchback -2 12” subwoofers in a ported box, under 2,500 watts Planned Equipment: TBD We have committed ourselves to the Class 1 of IdBL Competition Ideally we have 2 12” subwoofers in a ported box, with one amplifier Sponsors/ Funding: TBA At the moment we are 100% student funded. We are a new organization and have the potential to acquire funding from the university. However, we were not officially founded until after the funding request deadline. This is our official build log. We will be updating with information regarding the car audio build as we go. I look forward to keeping this updated and would love feedback. If you would like to contact me directly, please direct message me. Thank you! Mark Soler, President 2Loud @ Virginia Tech As of now, we do not have any sponsors. If it proves that we cannot afford to build the planned system this semester, I will be donating my system from the Galant build to the cause. That would put is in Class 2 competition at only 3200 watts, however it will be better than nothing.
  7. Here is the log for my install in my 2009 Honda fit, goes through all the install except detailed pics of the headunit install. Some of this was written as a guide for other fit owners so it may seem weird, just wanted to detail the doors and such so that other fit owners would know what to expect. Here is a picture of the headunit and DMM I put in the dash. Here are a couple pictures of the power wire. This is directly above the gas pedal area. And here is a picture of it in the engine bay. Here is a picture of under the dash as it comes down. Then ran it down the driver side of the car towards the hatch area. Heres a couple more shots of the power wire. This was only what I had on hand for power wire, I am working on getting some 0AWG after completing my BIG 3 which is happening this week, as I am picking up my Shuriken BT35 battery today. I then ran my RCA's, speaker leads and remote lead down the center of the car. I also laid down a layer of Dynamat Extreme Liner, this was left over from my wife's SQ stash, this stuff is heavy as it has a layer of lead in it. Here is the breaker just after putting it in and sealing the screw that it mounts with. Next the same area with the cable. Here it is all tightened up. An upper view of the breaker. And finally, the sub amp mounted and the mids and highs amp is on the other seat back in the picture below the sub amp picture. I retained use of my cars child seat features by mounting the amp high enough to clear the bracket. Door Removal, First is this panel it simply prys off, just be careful it is very flexible so it shouldn't tear or break on you. Next here is the door panel with that piece removed exposing the wires for locks/windows and the holding screw. Now other than the snap in pins around the door panel this is the only screw holding it to the door itself. Next we have the wiring harness for the locks/windows, its a standard push tab clip type of harness. After that you only have the door pull itself which is held in by one screw. After you remove this screw you pass the entire door pull through the door panel you can leave it hanging while doing the speaker install.

    98 prelude ecu

    Im picking, up my 98 lude today. I need a ecu, ASAP as someone helped there self to the one that was in the car.for 450$ still a good deal. Looking for something plug and play, just to get it home.
  9. Haven't done one of these in a long time. But it pushes me to get back in the garage after a long days work..... This won't be just an audio build.....I'm gonna be taking care of the whole car thanks to some completely dumb luck in the past couple weeks. Don't really know where to start since a lot has gone on, so I'll take it from shaving the badges and power antenna about a month ago. A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a craigslist ad for a 95 SE....Difficult to find, leather interior, 5 spoke alloys I really wanted, and tires with still about 90% life on them so I picked it up for just over 300 bucks. so began the strip. I got a hell of a lot for 300 bucks, and the best part is I can ditch the chassis when I'm done and they'll pay me a couple hundred for it! Basically getting well over 1000 bucks in parts for a fraction of the price. The same week, another craigslist guy told me he had a prelude....that one was beat. However, He stripped the Tein coilovers off before trying to sell it. So I was able to pick those up for 140 bucks (cost 700 new)
  10. Brand new to the world of car audio, but am really interested in getting into it. Here's my first system. Bought all the parts at various local audio shops, and installed it on my own. I know it's not much, but Im really looking foward to where this is gonna go. Single Kenwood KFC-W12svc Ported Box Planet Audio 600w 2-channel amplifier Kenwood KDC-248U Deck
  11. Hello all, I am in the process of redoing the factory stereo completely and have decided to go bigger than I thought I would lol!. System is Rockford P1000x5 running 4 6.5's and 1 12" Rockford p3 at 1 ohm. I have 2 more p3's waiting to go in along with a p1000x2. Looking to upgrade alternator to Mechman 270 amp with all needed beefier wiring etc....When hooking up this alternator would you connect the factory power wire to it as well as 1/0? Any issues that I may deal with going this route? Thank you for any and all advice!!
  12. I know this a long shot, but I figured if any of you guys know someone with a 4th generation prelude (92-96) they may be interested. I've got a set of brand new black housing headlights never installed or unwrapped. These are JDM replicas that are getting more and more rare; and the JDM ones you can't find for under 300+ a pair used. I'm also selling a pair of never installed, Taillights. They have a clear signal reflector instead of the stock amber ones. I did buy them from someone else, looks like there are some small surface scratches from storing them. Both of them are on ebay with no reserve so I'm hoping they get bid up but we'll see. They are also on craigslist local so I may sell them before auction ends. I'd also be willing to cut a deal for forum members... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Prelude-Black-Housing-Headlights-/251790701930?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AHonda|Model%3APrelude&hash=item3a9fe5356a&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Prelude-taillights-/251790709582?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AHonda|Model%3APrelude&hash=item3a9fe5534e&vxp=mtr
  13. Hello all....Well, I decided I would start a build log. I am going to be walling off my 1997 Honda Civic. For equipment I will be using 4 sundown sa 12s on 2 hifonics brutus 2100s. the wall will have an interchangeable port in the middle of the wall. 2x4's, birch plywood, and fiberglass is my choice of materials..... Lots of 2x4's lol. I am open to any advice........ always willing to learn. Hope you all enjoy the progress. I will be posting lots of pics:) Also check out my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/cxmaudio I will be posting updates and wall build footage on my YouTube channel. well here's my car. Equipment for the build. (sundown sa 12's, Hifonics 2100's) I started building the floor a few weeks ago.... cutting out a piece that will bolt to the seat belt thing. 2x4 that is bolted to the vehicle itself. Sorry if some of the pictures look grainy. Got to love the kreg Jig tool..... makes this so much easier. boxing in the wheel well area.
  14. (Disclaimer) Real progress on the build starts on page 4 for those that do not want to sift through a couple pages of old stuff that is no longer there. So I finally found my memory card from my old phone so now I have many pics to put up on here. First I would like to start off with the pics of my old amp, sadly it fried, I replaced the resistor that fried on the board, but shortly after powering on 2 others fried elsewhere on the board. This is my first ever build, and was slowly put together over a about 2 years. I was a fool at first and bought my HU and all my speakers except my sub stage from crutchfield for $300. When I could have bought Prime 6.5's and punch 6x9's from sonic electronix for only $150 total. The sub + the box came together from a friend of my dads along with the MTX amp which is now perished. I am currently using a friends amplifier that only puts out about 70-100 watts on the subs and 25-80 watts on the rear 6x9's. Here is the Board This is it with it in And this is the fried resistor When I had my old box, it was carpeted, along with the stock carpet lineing in the bed of the back of my hatch, so if I turned anywhere near hard it would always move, so one day I took scrap wood from my garage and took dimensions of the back. Cut out some wood to put on the floor. It took me a while only because I had to use a damn hand saw, seeing as all the power tools in my garage where broken, but sure enough I got it to finally work. This is what I was working with and the finished product
  15. I have a 2010 Honda civic coupe, and I can't stand how loud it is driving down the road. I have looked into second skin's luxury liner, damplifier, etc. I am wanting to make my car as quiet as possible for as little as possible. My budget is about $600. I don't want to use any tar based products of any kind. Any info on what product I should choose for my budget would be greatly appreciated. Also if anybody has any experience with sound deadening, it would help me a lot if you could give me an estimate on how much of each kind of material I should get. Thanks, Brett
  16. bmxkid92

    Mids won't fit

    Probably not the first to ask but I need help. I have a 1999 Honda accord lx 4 door. i have some old pioneer which I'm guessing came in the car originally that I want to replace. I bought some Rockford Fosgate R1 6.5s to go in but the basket itself won't allow the speaker to mount. Any guesses on what brand I could use to go in the stock location without modifying other than cutting the back out for the magnet depth. I've never done custom doors before but if thats what needs to be done then let me know. Any suggestions and tips would be great. I have to obsidian audio 10s coming my way and would like to step my mids and highs up.
  17. finally had my system on a term lab at a local audio shop. I won my class ( 1-2 subs up to 12 inches 1 amp up to 1000 watt) won with a 140.3 on dash drivers door open. 138.4 sealed peaked at 31 hz quick rundown on equipment -Kenwood kdc-200u head unit -alpine mrx-m100 -kinetic hc 1400 -sky high 1/0 cable for big three and run -kicker zx 250.4 for mids and highs -infinity reference doors and rear deck -box is 2.5 cu. ft after sub and port displacing tuned to right around 29ish (by my math) -gt 50 mil on trunk rear deck quarters (not shown) and a bit here and there to help with miscellaneous rattles -gauge reducers where needed made by scoche and all wire is sky high audio. pics up soon uploading now...
  18. I recently came back from a deployment in Afghanistan, and on my free time I spent designing my first real build. I've had my share of entry level systems, and this time decided to step it up a bit. I wanted something that would do well both in SQ and SPL, and wanted to keep it strictly Rockford. I was going to get a T2 for the Sub, but while researching I decided to preorder Sundown's Zv4. I contemplated on what vehicle I was going to put all this in, and wanted to stay loyal to Honda, so when I redeployed back to the states I was able to find a 2000 Acura Integra. So here is what I came up with. HU-Kenwood KDC-X794 Front- RF T2652-s Rear- RF PPS4-6 Sub- Sundown Zv4 dual 2 ohm Mid and Highs Amp- RF T600-4 Sub Amp- RF t1500bdcp Wiring- Knu 0g dual amp kit. Karma SS 4c rca. Karma SS 2 rca. Karma SS 16g. Karma SS 8g. Knu Kolossus Fleks 0g for big 3. Electrical- Big 3 upgrade, HO alternator, and two D5100R's. One under the hood, one in the rear. Sound Deadener- Knu 80mil 52.5 sq. ft. So I purchased the vehicle on the 1st of June and immediately started tearing it apart. Some of these pictures have been through out the last week plus. So here's my First Build Log.
  19. Well I want to replace the lights behind my instrument cluster with leds because one of them burnt out so I figured I might as well replace them all. Anyone know a sight that gives you the right size bulbs?
  20. 2006-2011 Honda Civic 1.8 240 amp non SI Highly efficient, these 6 phase alternators use less horsepower per Kilowatt than conventional 3 phase alternators. 12 press fit diodes, twin rectifier plates, and highly efficient twin internal ...cooling fans make them durable in any application. Smaller, lighter rotors and reduced rotating resistance make them an excellent choice for high RPM or racing applications. Like their big brothers in the Elite series, the S series have hairpins stators and high pole count rotors that create much less Electromagnetic noise than conventional 3 phase alternators. If you have any questions call 1-888-MECHMAN Or visit http://www.mechman.com/
  21. This is a build for a buddy of mine, dc xl with level 5 coil going in the back of a Honda integra. It's a custom built 6 cube box tuned to 28 hertz. Has a 1400 watt rms planet audio for now with 4 gauge and 2 batteries, stock alt. hoping to upgrade to a crescendo bc3500 and audiotechnix Ofc 0 gauge. Box built in two parts big box, little box. We made the big box as big as possible with seats up and only had 5 cubes before displacement so we made a small box to fit in the spare wheel well that attaches to the bottom adding another cube and half. Box is almost done. Here are some pics
  22. VOTE ME FOR SOTM PLEASE!!!!!! I'm seventeen and having a child soon and would love deaden my car with this months prize. The subs would be nice extra also. I could sell my current subs and run those bad boys! Please guys! Thanks!! well here is the finished product of my build! i couldnt be more happy with it, it was originally supposed to be two dc xl m2 12's and 2 ss rub1.2600 d and much more, but im 17 and having my first child soon so i couldnt spend more than a couple hundred. so this is what i came out with. if i could redo it i would have done a few things different, carpet, space, etc. the reasoning for the slide out amp rack is casue i needed room for the stroller and diaper bag. originally there would have been an amp rack there holding the xs power bats etc. but o well, im really happy with the turn out, let me know what you think!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uImOkA6jKPA http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JQVV7DOLYTA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cWCE0vcf3Y \MY BABY BOY "LIAM JACE WITNEY" cleaned up wires Mirror doesnt like to stay on very long Thanks for looking! please lemme know what ya think!!
  23. This is my first romp video of the go kart my dad and I put together this winter. It's pretty much completely made from scratch, starting with the frame. It has a 420cc honda engine and a seat from a volvo truck, rollbar, battery, hubs, centrifugal clutch and simple gas/brake operation.
  24. so a few of us honda guys got to talkin in pm and in our little thread about when our belts would start slipping. basically what we want to know is since DC power makes a 270 amp alt for our vehicle and no one else on the market even comes close.. would our belts slip on their 250 amp and 270 amp units? if no load is applied at idle then the load is applied at 2-3k rpm would we still get belt slip? if we rolled into the volume knob would the belt slip not be a factor?
  25. Car: 2006 Honda Civic LX Sedan Current Equipment List as of 12-27-11: Kenwood KDC-BT948HD JBL C608GTI MKII 6.5" Components Polk Audio Marine 5.25's JBL Marine 6.5's Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 JL Audio T2 320.4 Orion 600.2 Sundown Audio SAZ-3500D 2 Sonic Soundlabs Super Sonic X 12's Custom Mounted Stinger Volt Meter 1/0AWG Ultraflex Cable & Tsunami 1/0 Ground Cable 120^ft Fatmat & Rattle Trap as well as Second Skin Alpha Damp & Spectrum Sound Deadener Stinger 17in RCA's Pro 3 Series Stinger Pro Fused Distribution Block Optima Yellowtop Group 34/78- Front Batcap 4000- Rear 1/0 Welding Cable vs Tsunami 1/0 Got my 51r and 34/78 yellowtops More than likely will not use the 51r