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Found 58 results

  1. Scott Burgess

    box help for noob

    i have a 1990 ranger ext cab with a 8 cubic foot box runnin 2 older jbl 12 inch subs and a fosgate p2002 old school amp 200 watt rms into 4 ohm the box is 22x22x30 way to big but hits the lows so swwet i aquired from a shop closure a wad of soundstream equipment 2x dub12-4 ohm dvc 500 watt subs 2x picaso nano mono block 650 watt amps and a 520 watt 4 ch amp for future componants i have been trying to reverse engineer the last pic i found online please help i cant figure this out just want it to look similar with the correct cubes for 2 soundstream 12's and to fill the back of the cab enclosed is the perimeters the subs are calling for ive never had matching audio equipment and really want to have a setup i can be proud to show off i love the plexi on the front to show off the box and subs any help in design and especially a cut list would really make my day thanks for any help you guys offer also the space is 50 inches wide 14 inches front to back and 24 inches top to bottom with a 6x6 inch notch in the back its part of the chassis the sides act as legs with the notch cut out around that metal part i measured my truck to match the pic of the custom job in the pic scott
  2. Hey guys, this may be a long post so please bare with me, I'm finally doing a reasonable Build, first time in a long time I will have some decent power, I've ordered a soundstream Ar1.8000D which I got at a reasonable price, being in Australia postage usually kills you or the local mark ups are crazy, I'll be running a fusion pp-sw120, only a single 12 but it should go ok for the moment, I'd like to build a ported enclosure and tune it to between 30-35hz, fusion reccomends a 41L tuned at 40 hz enclosure but it seems small or a sealed enclosure at 27L, I tried putting the parameters into winisd but couldn't make sense of it, I have a subaru wagon so space is no real issue, if anyone could help with a box design I'd be ever grateful, here's a link to the sub. Thanks guys https://www.manualslib.com/manual/464089/Fusion-Pp-Sw120.html
  3. My 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Wk that I've built myself . * + 7,000 RMS * Over 2,000 Working Hours ! * 6 - SPL PRO Series Multiple World Record Winner SUBS * 3 - PRS-D 2000SPL Series Mono Amps * 1 - X3.2k4 World's Most Powerful 4 Channel Amp * 4 - 8' SPL series Mids * 2 - 6.5' SPL series Mids * 2 - SPL series Tweets * 5 - 95a AGM Batteries * 6 - Runs 1/0 Silver Tinned OFC Copper Wire * BC RACING Coilovers * Tons of Metra Ballistic Insulation * Stinger DVM * Singer 275A Alternator * CTEK MXS 25 500a Charger * KNU Conceptz CRYSTAL Cable Rca's * 6 - KNU Conceptz 300a Fusing * Knu 300a Fuses * Rockford Fosgate Fusing , wiring ... *Tool Maker USA Custom Made Battery Terminals * Pac Audio Interface * Russian Baltic birch wood * 6 Precision Ports ..... * Custom Built Battery And Amp Racks... Much Much More..... Enjoy !
  4. a good friend of mine called me up yesterday and said he had 2 Soundstream MC500's for sale and would hook me up proper. Of course i said yes and to bring them by. Back in 1989, i JUST graduated High School, my parents moved away and i didn't have but a wooden nickel to my name. I couldn't even come close to something of this caliber at that time. Anyway, when he told me he really needed the money i figured it was my duty to make him an offer he couldn't refuse and try to take both of them . I couldn't help it, as soon as i saw them i knew i had to at least try. He took my offer and they are both mine. No, i am not sure what i am going to do with them just yet. I will open them up, show the guts and run them on the dyno at some point i know that! It would be fun to do an oldschool SQ build with all vintage Soundstream amps some day. But just having them in my collection feels so nice More pics and some vids coming soon! Serial #25XX (i forgot to take a pic) and Serial #31XX (also forgot to take a pic). Ill have more updates to this post as i pull them apart and look at the guts
  5. bigmacjack

    Crescendo or Soundstream

    I am trying to decide between two amps at the moment. my current amp is the crescendo 2200w and the amp im looking at is the soundstream 6000.1. i'm planning on doubling my system so my choices are get another crescendo or get two soundstreams. the company i work for can get a really good price on the soundstream and it claims it'll put out more power then the crescendo. i just wanted to get some opinions on what would be the better amp, Thanks guys!
  6. Click here to check out my video
  7. So this is going to be my build log over the next 6 months on a 97 GMC Yukon. Power wire and RCAs is a mixture of SHCA, 2/0 welding cable, and Rockford Fosgate. ​1st thing that is going to be going in will be the HU Thursday. Then Saturday I should be posting pictures of the sub, box, and back battery install. Then on the 19th *fingers crossed* my mids and tweets will be going in. As of right now gonna be a single CT Sounds EXO 15 on a Soundstream TA1.3000d with Kenwood entry level Excelon HU, SBC RCA box, Crossfire mids, Soundstream tweeters, and Soundstream mid amps. Around January the Singer 320a will be installed. Then around May my sub will be switched to a EMF Yolo 18 or a IA Warden 21 and a c pillar wall will done. * add more photos as I get them*
  8. This has been a two year build I started in high school, I have finally graduated and I have a small system that is mostly finished. I have a few more plans for it during collage and maybe a big rebuild after collage. The new build has been completed and starts on page 3! Later on I'll even do some fiberglass a-pillars and other cool things! My Current system: -(2) PSI Audio 12's -Soundstream Rubicon 2500 -Soundstream Rubicon 800 5 Channel -Soundstream Mids and Highs -Fosgate P3 Shallow 8" -(2) Kinetic HC600 Batteries -Sky High OFC 0 gauge wire w/ Big 3 -Sky High OCF 12 gauge wire for all the speakers. -Sky High OFC 4 gauge for the subs. -Sky High 14 gauge primary wire for all other electrical connections, -200 Amp HO Alternator -125 sqft of GT Mat 80 Mil Sound deadener. This is my Jeep Cherokee, my first car. As for my system, I'm running two Fosgate HX2 12's with PSI 1000 watt recones. Soundstream Rubicon 2500 bass amp and a Soundstream Rubicon 5.800 for mids and highs. Soundtream mids and highs, Clarion eq, Sony head unit, all Sky High OFC 0 gauge wire, and an HO alternator. As for the build... I did it in a few stages, getting a system to play, and then doing some rebuilding, and then playing it again. I started out two years ago with the original Fosgate HX2's, I built my first box that was about 4.4 cubes ported. It was tuned to around 32Hz but would only play down to around 35Hz so once I had heard a few other systems I knew I had a fail lol. But I did use t-nuts and reinforced the inside of the box! Carpeted it and then wired the subs to 1 ohm for my new amp. I'm still running this amp, two years of hitting hard and it's never let me down! And then did some wiring upgrades...started with Walmart 8 gauge and then jumped to the big stuff!
  9. Figured I'd start this now. Before I say anything more, I am going to start with this disclaimer: this build is going to be slow, but then really fast. I can't put one component in without having the rest. So, it's going to be 2-3 months of designing, planning, and procrastinating, and then it's all going to come together in a week's worth of work (hopefully). I'm only starting it this early to hopefully get some help/tips/thoughts to help me see something I may not have. Now that that's out of the way, here she is: The Blazer was having problems, tranny was making noises and starter was starting to go and I didn't trust it to drive out of the city. It legitimately was the biggest source of stress in my life. Threw in the towel, got the car. Got tint done this weekend too. Here's what I pulled out of the Blazer. All of this will be transferred to the Impala: For my head unit, it will be an 80PRS. Just ordered the dash kit, wiring harness, and antennae adapter. I really hope I can get the voltage meter in the pocket under the HU (because I'm going from double DIN). Not really sure where else to put them. Now I had both digital and analog voltage and ammeters before, but I might not be able to do the analog this time. I would still like to. Here's what I'm working with: For my tweeters, I'm reusing the Vifa NE25VTS. I will be putting them in the sail panels. I still have to decide aiming, any thoughts? I think I am going to aim both at either the center between the two seats, or opposite headrests. I did the latter in the Blazer and liked it so that's a sure fallback. But I just ordered spare sail panels to play with. Mids will be Stereo Integrity TM65s. Will be fully sealing and deadening the doors, as well as applying the KHA method of driver treatment, including the foam ring to the plastic door panel. Will be nice to actually fit drivers behind the stock door panel. For my substage, I'll be running only one Dayton HO 15. Since my seats don't fold down, I've decided to do a 4th order firing through the speaker grills in the rear deck. I will be doing 2 cubes rear chamber, 1.6 cubes net at 54Hz with two 5" ports for the front chamber. Here's the grill I'll be firing through and the trunk I'm working with: For my amps, I will be running the Soundstream REF2.370 for tweeters, a Ground Zero 4200XII bridged to the mids at 8ohms, and a Ground Zero 2400XII bridged to the sub at 4ohms. Not quite sure on placement, but I think in the trunk what I'm going to do is put all wiring in between the sub box and seat, box right behind that, and then the amps placed vertically in a row (side to side, so looking from trunk like this: = = =) with the rear covers off. Then I'll put plexiglass over the amps, so when all is done, looking in the trunk all you'll see is the amp guts. Plus, I'll still have half my trunk. Pretty excited about being able to make this look pretty OEM. Only thing that will be different is HU and tweeters. What's the best cheap deadener now?
  10. Before I get into this, I have two warnings: this will be a slow build, and this log is going to have a lot of pictures in it. Those with slow connections may be frustrated. Alright, with that said, here’s the build log. Just moved back to the states in January, bought the whip, and been collecting equipment for a couple months now. Build has been and will be slow, because I’ve got no money right now due to moving back here. Costs way too much money to furnish a house, and I like to booze. :/ Here’s a brief rundown of the notable pieces: Pioneer DEH-80PRS – Head unit Vifa NE25VTS-04 - Tweeters Exodus Anarchy – Mids Custom 3HP 15” – Subs PSI 18” passive radiator – Passive Radiators DC Power Inc 270XP – Alternator Sears Diehard Platinum – Batteries KnuKonceptz and Sky High Car Audio – Wiring Will be running active, crossed at 63Hz and about 2kHz. Sub box will be about 8.5 cubes, going to play around with tuning, but going to start with a tune of 23Hz. Will be building a tiered amp/batt rack that will involve fans in a push-pull config, plexi, and amp guts Have like 60sq.ft. of AT deadener right now, I will need more of something. There’s still a lot of equipment that is on the list to buy, including tools. Goal for this build is basically the definition of SQL. Don’t plan on seeing a meter other than to just see where I am once or twice. I want it to sound great first and foremost. I’m not worried about it getting loud, with the power I am running I know it will, so everything I am doing with what I have I am trying to tailor towards SQ mostly. After the audio is done, gonna work on the vehicle itself. Want to lower it, get some new shoes, new headlights, tint, just do some cosmetic work, possibly eventually engine work. But that’s not for a little while. Alright, on to what everyone really wants, the photos. Here’s the ride when I bought it. I have since taken off the roof rack: First up, Pioneer DEH-80PRS. This was in my last ride, love this HU. Will be the first time running it active. Planning to cross at 63Hz and 2kHz. Will be using an iPod/iPhone via USB most of the time, don’t really use CD’s. For my tweeters, I’m using Vifa NE25VTS-04’s. Frequency charts look good, usable down to 1.5kHz with a fairly flat response. In the A pillars, aimed at opposite headrests. Guess I never really took good photos of these. Not a huge loss, they’re not that special. You’ll see them more later on.
  11. Is the bx-12 any good from Soundstream?
  12. pioneerforlife

    My review of the Soundstream TA1.3000D

    First let me start by saying that I do not sell these amps, and I am not in any way paid to do this. This is just my personal opinion on the amp. Here is a couple pics of the amp So here we go. I will talk about my experiences with them first and then go through pros, and cons. I have had lots of experience with these amps. my buddy ran one in his car for a year and I am currently running 2. My buddy ran his at .5 with 2 35ah batts, a d3400 under the hood, and stock alt. He could play it 24/7 with no problems. never dropped below 12.8, and the amp never had problems. however it did get pretty warm with no fans or anything on it but it never got hot. At one point in time, a fuse blew in his main run and he didn't find out right way and accidentally played it with no power coming from up front. amp still played fine (voltage dropping very low). he ended up selling it (to me) and getting a bigger soundstream amp. I still have the amp and its going strong. In my car, I have two of them. one new one, and my buddies old one. I currently have them running strapped at .5, that's .25 ohm a piece....daily. As far as electrical, I have a stock alt, big 3, stock batt under the hood, a group 31 In back, and a small 35ah batt in the rear as well. so I guess you could say I have insufficient electrical. The lowest I have ever dropped to is 11.6V, ya ya, I know. but this is partially on purpose. I want to see how much I can put these amps through. so you might ask, how does .25 daily treat me. well, I have no problems with it while driving. if I am sitting demoing for a long period of time, they will get hot and protect. but some fans will help with that along with better electrical. I have been running them at .25 for about a month and they are going strong. now one thing to note, I do get some slight feedback playing through the subs because I have them mounted to the back of my seats. for some reason, the cases don't like to be grounded out. they will still play fine, but there is some feedback. besides that, I have no problems. Now lets talk price. Brand new, you can get them for as low as $300, new. They retail for a lot more. some places have overstock and are trying to get rid of them. but from Soundstream, they are a bit over $400. What about power? Do they do rated? well, I cant say yes or no for sure. I don't have an amp dyno or anything like that, but I will share my experience. So in my opinion, they do rated. keep in mind they are rated at 3K at .5, not 1. They make their power when wired low. The internals are similar to lots of other amps that are rated in that general area of power. when it comes to parts, I am honestly not positive on whether they are quality or not. but I can say I have put them through hell, ran them at low voltage, wired them low, and never had a problem (with the exception of the thermal protection circuit doing its job). I can also say that I swapped my xxx which will do 3k at 1 (I had it at .5) with a tarantula 3K and there was no noticeable difference in sound. so I cannot say for sure, but I believe with good electrical, they will do rated. So when it comes down to it, here is a list of pros, and cons Pros Cons Affordable Get hot when ran below .5 (with bad electrical) can be wired low and ran low cases don't like to be grounded (could be an rca issue I have) put out power fairly efficient built strong strapable reliable I will update this if anything changes but when it comes down to it, I love these amps. feel free to ask questions about anything you want here. like I said this is just for fun. Not trying to start anything. anyways, thanks for looking.
  13. Ok, so if you have been following my own build log you have seen some pics of my buddy's car, the Avenger. Me and him are walling his car so I thought why not put up a log. I don't have any pics at the moment but I will post some up tonight. if you want to see his past builds I have them over on my other log. anyways, here is the list of equipment. -2 18's Soundstream X3 -4 Soundstream X3.71 amps -2 Soundstream D-Tower's for mids and highs. -tons of Soundstream mids and highs -3 XS power D3100's -8 banks of Maxwell caps (4 at the moment) - Sky high wire -Mechman alt -Pioneer 80prs and more. I will post some pics up tonight. the shell will be built this weekend. Stay tuned for more.
  14. Here is the last of the 12's. Its all ripped out now. Moving on to bigger things. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LqkInkQzq38
  15. I am looking into these three subs; skar vvx-12v2, sundown sa-12d2 or soundstream t7.122. which one is better?
  16. Do these guts almost look identical or is it just me? The first one is the American bass 200.1 and the second picture is the Soundstream Ta13000D. For the guts of 2 completely different amps to be so identical like that it makes me wonder... Hmmm. What do you think?
  17. Hey all, I need some opinions on some subwoofers for my system. I am looking at getting a 12" woofer and I would would prefer it to be at least 1500 watt capable. Also, preferably with 1ohm. I am currently looking at the Sundown Audio VZ4 12" and the Fi Audio BL 12". If anyone has any other suggestions, throw them at me, any and all are appreciated. Oh and one more thing, well, two more actually. First thing, the highest I can go on price is around $650. Second thing, in the future I am planning on getting the SP Audio 12" 8000 watt subwoofer, does anyone have any experience with this sub, of know much about it?
  18. Looking for some power for my Fi SP4 18", I live in Australia where car audio is way more expensive. I've bought stuff from CACO before but shipping for an amp to here is about $150 at least. The best value amps I've found are on eBay are a pair of SoundStream TA1.3000d's http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191224319323?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 A pair of them shipped here is $781.83 USD (About $830 AUD) Plus I get 2 year warranty. (I would have to ship it back to US though) I planned to strap a pair of them together. I've got the dual 2 SP4 which I think is actually around 1.3 Ohm so each amp sees around 0.35 Ohm. I've got pretty awesome electrical for them. A pair of Fullriver 120aH AGM's in the rear and another large Fullriver in the front. 0 Gauge positive and negative front to back and a 240 Amp alternator. I realize this is more than enough power for the SP4 but I won't be running the amps at full power so they won't be overly stressed. I also have a scope to set gains. This setup with the pair of SS is about the value for power I can get here so should I even be considering for about the same price getting a used SCAR/Crescendo/DC Audio 3.5k that also won't have warranty.
  19. Got the idea to do a nice budget wall build. Wasnt what subs to go with at first tossing back and forth between a lot of different brands. Went with the sundown because simply they make great products and have a great warrenty. Current Equipment: Head Unit- Pioneer touch screen navi Components- kicker Wire- 1/0 Knukonceptz with BIG 3 Sub amp- Soundstream Ta1.3000d Components amp- NONE Subs- (x2) Alpine Type R 15's Planned Equipment: Head Unit- Pioneer AppRadio 3 Components- Soundstream Wire- x2 runs 2/0 welding cable Sub amp- Soundstream Ta1.3000d
  20. Subwoofer : Soundstream T7.122 12" 800W Tarantula Series Dual 2 Ohm Car Subwoofer Amp : Soundstream TA1.2000D 2000W Monoblock Tarantula Series Class-D Amplifier Headunit : Option 1) Sony DSX-A40UI Single-Din Digital Media Receiver w/ Aux Input and USB Option 2) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...X-GT270MP.html Which is better? Or what do you recommended that is near 70-80$ Also how would I wire the sub to amp? Also if you could recommend wiring for this! Thank you very much for your time! ( I'm new )
  21. So here is a build I did for someone over the winter. it is 2 9512g's on 2 m1b's. soundstream mids and highs, soundstream x3 4 channel on mids and highs. anyways here is a short vid of it. http://youtu.be/_MNMMvEtVzc
  22. Here is a short flex vid of my system. everything sounds clear in person. So anyways tell me what you think. http://youtu.be/9iYRXABDh84
  23. Looking to purchase a new amp. Something in the 2500-4K RMS range. Still kind of new to all this, but I do have some knowledge. I've been in car audio for close to 15 years now, but nothing serious like most of you. Now that I have a good job, house, wife, and such, I can now spend expendable income on a nice system. I would love to do mid to high 140's, possibly 150 from trunk, if possible. Anyway, blah blah blah... I was pretty much dead set on buying at least one SQ Q2200.1 (possibly another one in the future) or just putting up the money for a Q3500.1 until I ran across Soundstream. They seem to have an iffy reputation from what I've read about them. I was thinking about buying the Terantula Ta1-3000d. I don't plan to run this at .5 ohm, but rather at 1 ohm on (2) HDS12's.... Maybe Sundown SA-12's... Still not sure on the subs. That's another topic... As far as electrical goes, I already have a Mechman 240a HO alt installed, I will be buying 2 Odyssey or Die Hard Platinum Group 34 AGM's to support. Looking at various mfg's of 1/0 OFC wire and will probably do 2 runs if the budget allows. Any advise or insight on the Soundstream line of amps? Anything will be greatly appreciated...
  24. Hello SMD! Before last summer of 2012 I was a long time lurker of this site after seeing Steve's videos on youtube of the Tahoe I got this burning desire to finally be loud. Last summer I finally nabbed me a job after graduating High school ( I go to a university full time as well) and started saving for the build. I took baby steps and have recently completed the build that I originally sought after over a year ago. Now I"m already planning the next build of course! I will also include pictures and a few explanations on my plasti dip job that I've done on the car. I recently dipped my whole PT mayan green, which is a custom plasti dip color that I'll explain how to mix later on in this log. I just wanna say that my main motivators for this build were of course Steve Meade, Purple haze (a member on here with one of the sickest pt's I've ever seen), and The pt bruiser build (you can look it up on youtube, he's also on the SSA forums). This build consists of: -4 skar vvx 12's v1 model (were originally d4's but just reconed them into d2's) -Mechman 240 amp alt -C&D 140ah battery in the rear (a monster!) -Deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood (was a very tight squeeze) -Soundstream vir 8300Nr Headunit -All cadence 1/0 gauge -re audio coaxial speakers (didn't really care about quality just needed something to keep up with the subs) -Hifonics zues 600.4 -DC audio 3.5k -8 cubic ft. box net tuned to 32 hertz with 108 sq. inches of port using three 6 inch aero ports -Big 3 upgrade -Lots of LEDS -Full Mayan green dip job with dipped rims and bumpers Misc. stuff that might prompt questions. On some of my pics my windshield looks super dark, yes I did tint the entire windshield with 35% and to me it's worth it. I also have double 35% on the front two windows and double layered 20% in the rear. The reason for the double layering was because I decided to go right over the original tint I had instead of paying the shop to take off the original tint first. THey seemed to think it was the best idea as well and it looks great! All of my led's are from ledunderbody.com so if you want to order the kits that's where I bought them. They're very bright and I've had them for about 4 years and they're still working great! I think that's about it, so without further ado… lets get to it! Here's the car when I first got it.. bone stock.. I knew this had to change fast! -Of course I had to get a system into it as one of my first upgrades, but this way over a year before my discovery of SMD so my knowledge of car audio was extremely poor;( My first system was a memphis sr. 12 on a 150 watt memphis street series amp in a sealed prefab box. Since I had never had bass before then, and had only heard like two systems in my life at that point, I thought it was loud, until I got used to it in only 2 days, then knew it was time for an upgrade. -I did get pics of the original head unit though, a JVC Kd 625 arsenal with usb and optional bluetooth audio. It was an awesome head unit, and the only reason I sold it was because i wanted a screen. Soon after that I got myself a kicker L7 15 in a ported prefab and ran that on a HIfonics HF 1500.1. It pounded pretty good for back in the day, but soon I got the itch to upgrade again. -THis was my third system a few months after I sold the kicker sub, 2 sound stream rxw 12's in a dual 12 ported prefab running on the same Hifonics 1500 watt amp. It was about the same loudness as the kicker sub -I was ready to upgrade again obviously, so I sold these subs to a friend (who was so excited about getting bass it was really funny, bass head girls are the best!) and ordered two re audio se 12's and used them in the same box, but I upgraded the amp to a Hifonics brutus 1700.1. Even though the RE's were considered SQL subs they were still louder than the sound streams in the same box and sounded better. I had this setup in for over a half a year makin' it the longest time I kept one setup besides my final one.. -This was the point where I finally got me a part time job to help fund the build. It's also when I decided to take it to the next level. The plan had been in my head ever since I discovered SMD. Take out the backseats and build a huge ported box tuned low for 4 12's. Thanks to one of my buddies locally who competes in Meca and the motivation to finally get a little loud, lol I started gathering the subs together. I decided on skar audio vvx 12's for a number of reasons, the main one being that they were decent quality (to me at least) and they're pretty cheap, especially used. I bought one brand new, and the rest used from members off of CACO. -Here they are on my front baffle. We used the wait of the subs to hold the two pieces of the baffle together while they dried. So finally we get to the good stuff.. I had to try to get my electrical somewhat decent for what was to come, so first I did the big three upgrade. -Sorry guys, I didn't get many pics of the process cause once I get caught up in the work I'm too lazy to take pics, but I've added on way more wire to the initial "3" wires that the upgrade is known for. I have 2 strut tower grounds, one to each side. 2 pos. runs from the alternator, 1 run to the fuse box, 1 run grounded to the alt casing from battery neg. and 1 engine block ground. All power and ground wire used in this build is cadence 1/0 gauge wire ordered off ebay. It works very well and is actually OFC wire. Its a very decent price too I couldn't be happier. -I don't have pics of what I did next, but next step was all the run to the back, I ended up with 3 pos. runs and 2 neg runs front to back of the 0 gauge (it was a tight squeeze believe me). Here is the finished product from when I had my C&D 55 ah dual front batts installed. Not the neatest job by a longshot, but it worked for me and has since been cleaned up a lot. No wires are touching anything hot anywhere and voltage holds very well for my electrical now. Stays right around 13.0 volts full tilt. Next I got a itch to change something' to the outside of my car and my headlights were looking' pretty rough, so I just decided to tint over them because I like the blacked out look anyways. I soon did my rims and bumpers in black plasti dip spray cans, because the blacked out lights with chrome wheels and gray bumpers look super tacky to me. -The blackout tint altered the look of my headlights a tad, but I've always had HID's in this car. The ones currently in it now are VVME "blue" 55 watt HID's and put out a pretty good amount of light for them to be so blue. I'll continue the log on the next post, don't wanna cram it all on one post..
  25. I really want to upgrade my whole car with soundstream but im nervous about swapping out my subs for a single 15. My kicker cvr 12s are unnaturally hard hitting http://www.crutchfield.com/S-gUflYkQYPvJ/p_2067DCVR12/Kicker-07DCVR122.html. These push crazy air and fex my rear windshield on my 2g eclipse. I want to make my car a pure Soundstream speaker car though and i want to upgrade to a 15" SPLX-152HF subwoofer powered by the TX1.1300D subwoofer. I DO NOT want to sacrifice spl. Does anyone have experience upgrading from kicker to soundstream subs?