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Found 122 results

  1. As stated in subject I'm looking for a rf t2500-1bd non constant power model. I have several references and I'm ready to buy. Steve Meade himself can vouch for me. Thanks in advance
  2. My good friend Aaron, aka Psyph Morrison, has never had a real system in any of his cars before. If you don't know who Psyph is (pronounced Sife), look him up on itunes, spotify or any other music app out there. Youtube as well. I have known him over 10 years and even worked with him on his last 3 albums as an executive producer. Ok, now that is out of the way, the reason he is getting a system is because well, the entire time i have known him and worked with him making music, especially music with a lot of bass, he has never had a system of his own. I don't know anyone who has had more car issues than him so we really never made it to the discussion of a system. Not too long ago he picked up a 2002 Honda Accord 4 door. I knew right then he has a reliable vehicle finally. So i offered to slap some beat in it for him. Watching him pull up, slapping his own music in a (not so great) stock sound system was really bothering me. How can my boy ride around like that if he know's ME? Long story cut short...his car is at my shop for a few weeks while i figure out what i am going to do. I have NO "plans". I just want to get him some good equipment, set it up proper and make him happy! ****NOTE, anything you see here is subject to change as i am totally freestyling this. Trying to just make it work. First i stopped by Arden Audio in Sacramento Ca. They always have what i need in stock over there and if they don't i can get it same or next day. I decided to pick Psyph up a new head unit first and foremost. I also got the dash kit and wiring harness to go with it. Grabbed some SkyHigh 16ga OFC speaker wire to run to the doors. The system will consist of (so far) Pioneer DEH X7800 BHS Head Unit Rockford Fosgate Punch 1000.1 (BASS) Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.2 (Highs) (2) Rockford Fosgate P3 12" subs (ported enclosure) (1) Set Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" separates SMD Fuse / Grounding Blocks Mechman 1/0 OFC Power Wire Skyhigh 12 and 16ga Speaker Wire I already had a P300.2 but i got him a matching 1000.1 to go with it. These P3 12" subs are not brand new but might as well be. They are in brand new condition! They are my old ones. This box was already finished and just hanging around the shop. I KNOW it sounds good so it should do great in his trunk! The trunk floor is at an angle so i have to make a platform and flatten it out some so the box sits level.
  3. Sub Searching

    I'm in search for a decent 12" sub preferably under $150 that can handle 500 watts or more. Thinking about getting a Soundqubed HDS2 or S3. Any other suggestions?
  4. Punch bass knob replacment

    Looking for an cheaper replacement bass knob for my Rockford Punch700s (2000-2003). I'm sure you guys have covered this topic before on the forum but I'm new and it's driving me crazy. I can't justify spending $60-100 on a simple potentiometer and a phone cable. Thanks in advance.
  5. Here we go with another build. This one won't be as slow as the Chevy TB and I'm excited for that. This vehicle is my work car so I work on it profusely week after week. I am hoping to get this one done by end month so until then here are my plans. If what you see sounds familiar it probably is, but I won't tell...🤔 Thanks everyone prematurely for the comments and hope to have some good reviews from this build. Rockford Fosgate T2500bdcp Rockford Fosgate T-400/4 Audio Control Matrix Crescendo Symphony 5.25" Components Rockford Fosgate T1D410's Xs Power Kinetik Mechman OFC 1/0 Singer Alt Pioneer avic 4200NEX HU
  6. Right now I have installed: JVC KW-V50BT Indash 2- 12in Rockford P3D4 powered by R1200.1D Cheap ported box 4ga OFC power 2- 5x7 Apline Type S, 2- 5x7 JBL GTO8629 powered by R400.4D Shuriken SK-BT45 As of 9/20/17: I'm laying down some fatmat 50mil in the trunk/backseat area. Skyhigh big 3 0ga upgrade Skyhigh 4ga OFC power and ground
  7. Im really curious if you guys were going to build a van with a big setup (160+) for demos, to be musical around town etc. The van has to look good and still be very very driveable. What type of van would you use and why? Also would like to know what your favourite vans are that are currently competing or have in the past? Favourite by looks, favourite by their setup, or favourite because a mixture of both. The more pics the merrier.... Thanks for your time
  8. Right now I have a T3 components in the doors, T1652s in the rear (T400-4 amp) and 2 P212s (R5001xd 619 @ 1 ohm birthsheet). Ive been looking all over for an upgrade, first I thought maybe T015s and a T1500 amp. That set up would've costed me 3500 and it would've just been a big ass box in my sedan's trunk, likely not what the subwoofers really want or need. I then bought some 12s HDC3s and I sold them to someone else after being convinced the same thing. I started looking into DD and the size of their boxes are crazy big (and I do not want one subwoofer). So now I'm looking at having four P3D410s in a "show build" powered by 2 prime 1200s. With that said, I'd have more than double the cone area and more than double the power (does this mean I'll increase by 6 decibels?) What do you think of the build in question? Will I be impressed? Should I get a box for this or should I let them just make this "show build"? Meaning they'd want me to appear at shows to show off their work. I'll answer all questions! Links to videos of your own 10s would be acceptable as well.
  9. Right now I have a T3 components in the doors, T1652s in the rear (T400-4 amp) and 2 P212s (R5001xd 619 @ 1 ohm birthsheet). Ive been looking all over for an upgrade, first I thought maybe T015s and a T1500 amp. That set up would've costed me 3500 and it would've just been a big ass box in my sedan's trunk, likely not what the subwoofers really want or need. I then bought some 12s HDC3s and I sold them to someone else after being convinced the same thing. I started looking into DD and the size of their boxes are crazy big (and I do not want one subwoofer). So now I'm looking at having four P3D410s in a "show build" powered by 2 prime 1200s. With that said, I'd have more than double the cone area and more than double the power (does this mean I'll increase by 6 decibels?) What do you think of the build in question? Will I be impressed? Should I get a box for this or should I let them just make this "show build"? Meaning they'd want me to appear at shows to show off their work. I'll answer all questions! Links to videos of your own 10s would be acceptable as well.
  10. Hey guys, I'm gonna probably pick up this old silver Rockford Fosgate T2 12" sub, I wanna make a box for. My max dimensions for my hatch is roughly Width=38" Height=15" Depth=20" 3/4" MDF if thats cool T212D2 It would be cool to learn how to properly design a box for myself if Someone can show or tell me how. Thanks in advance
  11. hey guys, first time poster long time reader. Im hoping to get some good opinions on my issue as to what I should be doing as I don't want to be spending heaps of money on things and not get anywhere. I have a rather large Rockford stereo consisting of 2 T2500BDCPs, one to run 6 p3 12s and the other to run 4 punch pro 10s for mid bass, a T10004AD running 8 punch pro 8' mids, a T4004 running 8 punch pro tweeters, a T6004 to run my front stage, 2 3sixty.3s and a pioneer Dex P99RS running it all. Electrical is supplied by a mechman 370amp alt leading down 2 runs of 00gauge to 4 105ah deep cycle agms with copper bars and full stainless hardware. I installed this just on a year ago upgrading from my previous setup to improve efficiency and have longer runtime with the car not running, I do mobile entertainment hire with the car so that's the reason for the battery choice. About a month or so after I put it in, I noticed a noise coming from the pro tweeters. I turned off the rear wall as its separate from the front stage and had a look at what the noise could have been from. I couldn't find anything that jumped out at me so I just reframed from using the rear wall, little did I know that it was in the front stage too as it wasn't noticeable due to the pro tweeters in the wall have high sensitivity and the front stage doesnt. A few months later after the 2 new subs were worn in I noticed problems when trying to use the processors remotes, both would do strange things or freeze and turn off. I had the processors both checked by the company that distributes Rockford in Australia and they said they are fine. About 6 months ago I decided to ask my amp repairer if he could find what is wrong, the first thing he found was the noise coming from my speakers was an oscillating noise that, even with both processors removed from the car and the rcas not hooked up to anything was being produced. He then checked for noise on the batteries when the stereo is on and off, when on it spiked noise across the terminals. We turned each amp on individually and found the 2 T2500BDCPs to be causing the noise which then just to be sure, we tested them outside of the car on another battery and there was noise across the terminals. He is 99% sure its the input caps are failing and low in farads. Ive been told by a few people and the Rockford rep that I should install caps into my system and a few people say it wont help due to having a solid electrical system and how its used. Since finding out that the amps are needing repairs I have been waiting 6 months so far for them to fix them under warranty and still nothing as yet on what they want to do. They still work but due to the interference I get with everything in the stereo it annoys me to no end and the fact I cant even finish tuning is worse considering if have a lot of tuning ahead to do. My question is will caps help me or be a waste of money and yes I do know the proper use of a cap? I should mention that 1 T2500 had less than 4 hours use when it started making the noise as well and that both amps were not pushed hard only due to wearing in new speakers and subs.
  12. Best AMP For HCCA 12.4

    Good afternoon everyone. I'm new to the site but not new to Steve Made Designs at all. I have a 2013 Volkswagen CC and I'm in the process of putting a system in. I'm going with two Orion HCCA 12.4. I need some advice. Which AMP would be better on these subs and give the most power. The Sundown SVC-4000 or the DC Audio 4.0K. Also would I need to upgrade my alternator for this system, if so what kind? Thanks
  13. I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU. I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice). here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html and this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
  14. Upgrading my audio!

    I drive a 2015 Toyota Corolla LE. Right now, I have everything stock except my sub and its amplifier. I have 2 12's Rockford's P2D4s powered by their prime amp that shoots 500x1 @ 2 ohms. The birth sheet says 619, so that's 309.5 to each sub when the two of them can take 400 RMS. With my back seat down, and my windows down a little, i get a small effect that i love. It's the massage effect, also it some how improves the sound. Now, I want to multiply that lovely feeling by like 10. So I have been having a problem with deciding, do I want to go to T1D412s at 800 RMS or T1D415s at 1000 RMS. If I do the former, I'll get a 1500 watt amp, i'm sure the birth sheet will show the RMS at around 1620 RMS. If I do the latter though, I thought of having 2 1000 watt amps. I've been told that's better than getting one 2000 watt amp. Anyways, what say you on that notion? FYI: I do plan on getting T1675s in my doors and T1693s powered by 300x4 rockford amp. What would your car audio priority be in this situation? Improve highs and mids first, or shoot for the upgrade (and final change of subwoofers). Thank you! Also, I do have an aftermarket, but it's in the closet for now.
  15. Toyota Corolla 2015 LE

    Ladies and Gentlemen, audiophiles alike, I am driving a Corolla as my first car and of course i hurried into a system. Right now I have 2-P2D4 12"s in a ported prefab box. The amp powering it is a R5001xd that is 500 watts at 2ohms. The subs are 400 watts RMS. I use a stock head unit, with a Pioneer X4800BS in my closet until I can get the insides (that'll be like $200) to hook the baby up. For a month now I've been looking at subwoofers to replace the ones I have. I want to spend less than $2500. I prefer to stick with Rockford Fosgate but am open to suggestions. The 2 12s do bang, but they don't bang as hard as I wished they did. They disappoint me so that instead of going up to P3 I was thinking maybe a T1 15 but I don't think two of those will fit in my car. Can anyone shed some light onto me and some ideas maybe? Also, how much would YOU pay for someone to build a box in your trunk to accommodate 2 15s? Rockford does have a T2 13 that takes 2000 watts RMS but the monster runs for $1,299. The T1 12s are 800 Watts RMS but that doesn't seem like a big enough jump for me (that would be a 400 watt jump on each). Anything is appreciated people! Thank you.
  16. I haven't done one of these so bare with a bruh. This is a slow build as stated in the title because I get only so much time to do anything. I brought this vehicle to drive to work and relieve miles on my Altima plus do a lil car audio on a budget . So here is the truck.
  17. The Altima lease is ending in a month. Time to say good bye to the SOTM winner and look to the future. Here it is... 2014 Camaro SS RS Package, 1LE, Dual Mode exhaust, and a manual. This car doesn't need anything! I'll tint the windows soon, but as it sits, its gorgeous.
  18. Hey peeps.. Here is a build that is happening on my car (by the company Loud and Clear). I'll post more pics as progress is made on the build. It's been a while in the works so lots of pics inc! Starting off with the outside:
  19. Well, I decided to change my front stage sooner than I thought. Anything I have BNIB has been removed for purposes of pictures only!! Up for sale is: Pair of BNIB SoundQubed QP-MR6.5 Pro Audio Speakers $50 shipped Pair of BNIB SoundQubed QT-CD25 (component) soft dome tweeters $30 shipped Two pairs (4 in total) SoundQubed QP-MR6.5 Pro Audio Grilles $12 shipped for both pair, or $7/pair One pair of CDT Audio crossovers from the CL-S60A - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers set. I have both woofers and tweeters as well (one woofer is blown, one tweeter has a torn lead that can be repaired with some solder and heat shrink). Only listing the crossovers, but if you want the woofers and/or tweets as well, let me know. Price for crossovers: $45 I also have two 1.0farad capacitors that were given to me back when I started out. One is a Rockford Fosgate 1.0f Punch Cap. Price: $50. The other is a Lightning Audio (also of Rockford Corp.) Strike Monitor, which is 1.0f with a fancy digital readout price: $50. Everything is OBO, so throw me a bone, worst I can say is no! if you want a package deal I'll create a deal-price for you. Thanks!! Shipping only in the lower 48 states of the great United States of America. Payments can be made via PayPal only, and I will only ship once payment has been completed.
  20. What Amp Should i get?

    So im looking to get a 2 Rockford Fosgate 12" P2D2 Woofers. And im looking for an amp that can power both these babies. Budget is 130 for an amp. And if you got any advice for a first timer let me know!
  21. OK! So this is my first car and i'm looking to get some a new sound system. I already have a "650W Premium 9 Speaker System" but it doesn't hit the way i want it to hit. The amp itself is a headache because it auto levels the music . So I'm looking to replace the amp and the subwoofer with 2 12's or 2 15's and a new Amp. But I have no clue where to start. Right now i have 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12's with a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D in my cart on amazon... box and all. I want something that knocks, I want to keep my current speakers in the doors and the navigation but i have no clue what to do. I looked all over the internet but this driving me nuts.
  22. Simple Ported Box

    Hey Guys, Longish Backstory, I have been working on getting my system dialed in with my current car(01' Chevy Monte Carlo SS)It's great and I used the advice from here and some other forums to build my last box and it went great,Been using it for about a little over a year now and impresses all of my buddies. With me living in Wisconsin where there is snow there is salt and the poor monte is getting really bad in the rust department. So I found a Chevy Avalanche with 4 wheel drive for the nasty winters here. I just want to transplant my system from the monte to the Av. I don't want to do anything crazy in depth yet on the box because I would like to get another woofer to match the other because I have the space in this vehicle, but for now just one. The Box, I want to build a box to fit into the midgate space of a 02' Chevy Avalanche Z71. I have already a RF P3 D2 15 from my previous car and really want to stick with this woofer for budget reasons. I was playing around in WinISD and got a box that looked good to my untrained eye. Ported 6 Ft^3 Tuned to 25hz for a nice flatish freq response for the space I have available ( Around 6 cubes ) Port - 6in circle port, 15.8in long Link to Graph - http://imgur.com/Rhlk3cl What do you guys think? Am I way off?
  23. I have recently just purchased a Rockford Fosgate P3 12" inch sub. I want to build a box but not really sure if it's best to stay within the manufactures recommended dimensions of .75 to 1.25 for a sealed box. And then the subject of what provides better sound, from a box thats taller than long, or longer than tall. Then the subject of facing the sub towards the back seat or out into the trunk. Can some one help me out? I'm very knowledgeable to car audio, just not at going beyond manufacturers recommended volume and trunks.
  24. Hey Guys, My 2006 Avalanche. Very small system compared to the monsters on this site. Im the little kid on the block. Suggestions and critiques welcome. **Updated 30/11/15** Finally got this done after putting it on the back burner for years. I absolutely hated the rake my avalanche had. Well thanks to Tony from TBSSowners, I told him I wanted to get rid of that and he suggested the 2" lowering belltech springs with bump stops. Parts came in Friday & Sunday was Funday. Original Height (Center of Hub to fender) Front Dr SIde: 20.5" Front Pass Side: 20.25" Back Dr Side: 22.25" Back Pass Side: 22.50"
  25. I have been looking around for a while to see if anyone is able to repair the 3isxty.2 Bluetooth issue as it seems Rockford doesn't do this anymore. I know its an old unit but I cant afford a 3sixty.3 right now and I have two 3sixty.2 both having the same issue. Unit works fine but no Bluetooth connectivity to make any adjustments so am stuck with whatever settings is currently stored in it. Any help would be appreciated, ideally I would love to do an exchange where you can fix both unit and keep one for payment but if not I would still pay for repairing one as long as its reasonable.
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