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Found 114 results

  1. Hey guys, I'm gonna probably pick up this old silver Rockford Fosgate T2 12" sub, I wanna make a box for. My max dimensions for my hatch is roughly Width=38" Height=15" Depth=20" 3/4" MDF if thats cool T212D2 It would be cool to learn how to properly design a box for myself if Someone can show or tell me how. Thanks in advance
  2. I haven't done one of these so bare with a bruh. This is a slow build as stated in the title because I get only so much time to do anything. I brought this vehicle to drive to work and relieve miles on my Altima plus do a lil car audio on a budget . So here is the truck.
  3. hey guys, first time poster long time reader. Im hoping to get some good opinions on my issue as to what I should be doing as I don't want to be spending heaps of money on things and not get anywhere. I have a rather large Rockford stereo consisting of 2 T2500BDCPs, one to run 6 p3 12s and the other to run 4 punch pro 10s for mid bass, a T10004AD running 8 punch pro 8' mids, a T4004 running 8 punch pro tweeters, a T6004 to run my front stage, 2 3sixty.3s and a pioneer Dex P99RS running it all. Electrical is supplied by a mechman 370amp alt leading down 2 runs of 00gauge to 4 105ah deep cycle agms with copper bars and full stainless hardware. I installed this just on a year ago upgrading from my previous setup to improve efficiency and have longer runtime with the car not running, I do mobile entertainment hire with the car so that's the reason for the battery choice. About a month or so after I put it in, I noticed a noise coming from the pro tweeters. I turned off the rear wall as its separate from the front stage and had a look at what the noise could have been from. I couldn't find anything that jumped out at me so I just reframed from using the rear wall, little did I know that it was in the front stage too as it wasn't noticeable due to the pro tweeters in the wall have high sensitivity and the front stage doesnt. A few months later after the 2 new subs were worn in I noticed problems when trying to use the processors remotes, both would do strange things or freeze and turn off. I had the processors both checked by the company that distributes Rockford in Australia and they said they are fine. About 6 months ago I decided to ask my amp repairer if he could find what is wrong, the first thing he found was the noise coming from my speakers was an oscillating noise that, even with both processors removed from the car and the rcas not hooked up to anything was being produced. He then checked for noise on the batteries when the stereo is on and off, when on it spiked noise across the terminals. We turned each amp on individually and found the 2 T2500BDCPs to be causing the noise which then just to be sure, we tested them outside of the car on another battery and there was noise across the terminals. He is 99% sure its the input caps are failing and low in farads. Ive been told by a few people and the Rockford rep that I should install caps into my system and a few people say it wont help due to having a solid electrical system and how its used. Since finding out that the amps are needing repairs I have been waiting 6 months so far for them to fix them under warranty and still nothing as yet on what they want to do. They still work but due to the interference I get with everything in the stereo it annoys me to no end and the fact I cant even finish tuning is worse considering if have a lot of tuning ahead to do. My question is will caps help me or be a waste of money and yes I do know the proper use of a cap? I should mention that 1 T2500 had less than 4 hours use when it started making the noise as well and that both amps were not pushed hard only due to wearing in new speakers and subs.
  4. Good afternoon everyone. I'm new to the site but not new to Steve Made Designs at all. I have a 2013 Volkswagen CC and I'm in the process of putting a system in. I'm going with two Orion HCCA 12.4. I need some advice. Which AMP would be better on these subs and give the most power. The Sundown SVC-4000 or the DC Audio 4.0K. Also would I need to upgrade my alternator for this system, if so what kind? Thanks
  5. Since I am looking at making some changes to the system in the 350z I figured I would post what I have now. Stereo Alpine 9861 HU Audiovox 7" monitor in dash Crescendo cz 6.5-Inch Two-Way Components Rockford Fosgate Punch 300s (2002) Rockford Fosgate Punch 500.2 (2003) 4g power and ground. for get the Big 3, it will be the Big 7. (special grounding kit for Z's) Sundown SD-2 D2 10" shallow mount sub. Batteries Plus X2 AGM group 35 Battery under the hood. DD-1 Amps are setup 300s on the Doors. 500.2 Bridged for the sub. Right now I am a sealed box under the rear strut bar. Engine and Suspension mods ( nothing special yet) Airaid intake SPL FLBS Z33 PRO Front Shock Mount Lower Arm Bushings SPL PRO Front Inner Lower Arm Bushings JDM Y Pipe SPL Pro solid diff bushing VLSD Diff (not stock on the Base model) Here are the pics I have for now. Additional pics to follow soon. new bushings
  6. Hello everyone! New to this particular forum. I am looking to replace my old Rockford Fosgate T1 10D4 with something new. I ran the T1 for a long long time then stopped. I just don't feel it hitting in my chest like I remember. So hence the need to upgrade. I am running a Rockford Fosgate Prime R500x1d. Birth sheet says 633 RMS so real world I'm estimating 560 RMS. I have seen the SA-10 rated at 500 RMS but I've seen conflicting details. I do not want to under power this sub. I know the sd.3 is supposed to be more SQ based and has an rms rating of 500 rms. Obviously I would like whichever speaker I decide to have good SQ but I also want to feel it in my chest. I miss that feeling and watching everything in my truck shake. Any opinions or advice in either direction would be much appreciated. Thank you
  7. I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU. I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice). here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html and this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
  8. The Altima lease is ending in a month. Time to say good bye to the SOTM winner and look to the future. Here it is... 2014 Camaro SS RS Package, 1LE, Dual Mode exhaust, and a manual. This car doesn't need anything! I'll tint the windows soon, but as it sits, its gorgeous.
  9. This is our FAMILY station wagon that just happens to have over 300 horses haha Nothing crazy since its for Mama and the Kidz System consists of a the Stock Boston Acoustics sound system with factory speakers all around. I like the way it sounded for stock it was decent. Just needed to brighten it up a bit so I added a Rockford P400-4 and some Diamond D6 tweeters. Sub Stage - JL Audio 500/1v1 and a RE SE10 in an MTX Thunder form
  10. I drive a 2015 Toyota Corolla LE. Right now, I have everything stock except my sub and its amplifier. I have 2 12's Rockford's P2D4s powered by their prime amp that shoots 500x1 @ 2 ohms. The birth sheet says 619, so that's 309.5 to each sub when the two of them can take 400 RMS. With my back seat down, and my windows down a little, i get a small effect that i love. It's the massage effect, also it some how improves the sound. Now, I want to multiply that lovely feeling by like 10. So I have been having a problem with deciding, do I want to go to T1D412s at 800 RMS or T1D415s at 1000 RMS. If I do the former, I'll get a 1500 watt amp, i'm sure the birth sheet will show the RMS at around 1620 RMS. If I do the latter though, I thought of having 2 1000 watt amps. I've been told that's better than getting one 2000 watt amp. Anyways, what say you on that notion? FYI: I do plan on getting T1675s in my doors and T1693s powered by 300x4 rockford amp. What would your car audio priority be in this situation? Improve highs and mids first, or shoot for the upgrade (and final change of subwoofers). Thank you! Also, I do have an aftermarket, but it's in the closet for now.
  11. Ladies and Gentlemen, audiophiles alike, I am driving a Corolla as my first car and of course i hurried into a system. Right now I have 2-P2D4 12"s in a ported prefab box. The amp powering it is a R5001xd that is 500 watts at 2ohms. The subs are 400 watts RMS. I use a stock head unit, with a Pioneer X4800BS in my closet until I can get the insides (that'll be like $200) to hook the baby up. For a month now I've been looking at subwoofers to replace the ones I have. I want to spend less than $2500. I prefer to stick with Rockford Fosgate but am open to suggestions. The 2 12s do bang, but they don't bang as hard as I wished they did. They disappoint me so that instead of going up to P3 I was thinking maybe a T1 15 but I don't think two of those will fit in my car. Can anyone shed some light onto me and some ideas maybe? Also, how much would YOU pay for someone to build a box in your trunk to accommodate 2 15s? Rockford does have a T2 13 that takes 2000 watts RMS but the monster runs for $1,299. The T1 12s are 800 Watts RMS but that doesn't seem like a big enough jump for me (that would be a 400 watt jump on each). Anything is appreciated people! Thank you.
  12. Hey guys first post, woo. I'm going to order 2 new 12 inch 2011 Rockford Fosgate P3's to go with my first generation JL Audio Slash 1000/1 amp upgrading from my 2 12 inch Kicker Comps lol, and I need help getting a new box. At the moment I have a "sealed" box with 1.18 cubes per sub. I say "sealed" because the front panel leaks like a bitch. It was my first build and I know I did a bad job but I didn't care it looked pretty. I don't have the money to pay the local audio shop 200 dollars for a box so I'm probably going to do it myself. My maximum dimensions I can go are just short of 16 inches in height and 33 inches long. I know each sub is listed as 1.79 cubes for ported and that's the box I'm looking to do. I want to do a slot port, preferably in the front with the two subs sharing it. I'm going for a tuning of 35-40hz I think but am open to suggestions to get the best of both worlds of SPL and SQ. I want it to hurt so lean more towards SPL. Also what is best box placement? As close to the trunk lid as possible facing outside? Because I've always had mine as close to the back seat as possible and facing to the open trunk. Could really use y'alls help!
  13. Hey peeps.. Here is a build that is happening on my car (by the company Loud and Clear). I'll post more pics as progress is made on the build. It's been a while in the works so lots of pics inc! Starting off with the outside:
  14. Disclaimer: Prepare yourself. Gratuitous amount of amp porn coming up! I bought the amp used from a friend in 1994 and it was built in 1993 which makes it a lot older then most of you on this forum... I popped the board out, here's a walk-around: Pic of the output FET's. IRF540's. Good for 100V and 33A each. In case you're curious: These conduct alternately from the positive and negative power rail to the speaker outputs. Pic of the Power Supply FET's. IRFZ40's. Good for 60V and 50A each. In case you're curious: These pulse the 12-14V from your electrical system through the primary of the power supply toroid transformer. They help turn DC voltage into AC which the toroid then can use to create a higher voltage AC. Power Supply Rectifier Diodes. U1610/U1610R. Good for 16A each. In case you're curious: These "rectify" that AC voltage that has been boosted by the toroid and turn it back into DC (power rails). One rectifies for the positive rail and one for the negative. Since its was a good 20 years old I wanted to refurb it since electrolytic caps tend to dry out and degrade with age.....or do they? I went to Mouser.com and ordered up a bunch of different replacement caps to see which ones I liked best. The amp was originally built with Nichicon brand caps (which most old school amps were) and they are great caps but it is possible for good caps to go bad after 20 years of intermittent use. I have access to a nice LCR meter at work. An LCR meter can measure impedance, capacitance and inductance at various frequencies and is very handy in determining whether components meet their specifications or not. Here are the old Nichicon's (from the power rails) on the LCR: They're rated at 3300uF so to my complete surprise they are still well within initial specs (+/-20%). (3mF = 3000uF). Here's the best available replacement cap from Nichicon since that series of cap is no longer available. As you can see, brand new, out of the bag and they measure ~2800uF and a slightly higher ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance). Here's another brand (Cornell Dubilier 3900uF): Here is a new cap from Panasonic which is rated at a higher base capacitance (3900uF): You an see it takes a higher rated cap to even come close to that original rating of 3300uF. Really justifies the saying: "They sure don't make 'em like they used to..."
  15. Well, I decided to change my front stage sooner than I thought. Anything I have BNIB has been removed for purposes of pictures only!! Up for sale is: Pair of BNIB SoundQubed QP-MR6.5 Pro Audio Speakers $50 shipped Pair of BNIB SoundQubed QT-CD25 (component) soft dome tweeters $30 shipped Two pairs (4 in total) SoundQubed QP-MR6.5 Pro Audio Grilles $12 shipped for both pair, or $7/pair One pair of CDT Audio crossovers from the CL-S60A - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers set. I have both woofers and tweeters as well (one woofer is blown, one tweeter has a torn lead that can be repaired with some solder and heat shrink). Only listing the crossovers, but if you want the woofers and/or tweets as well, let me know. Price for crossovers: $45 I also have two 1.0farad capacitors that were given to me back when I started out. One is a Rockford Fosgate 1.0f Punch Cap. Price: $50. The other is a Lightning Audio (also of Rockford Corp.) Strike Monitor, which is 1.0f with a fancy digital readout price: $50. Everything is OBO, so throw me a bone, worst I can say is no! if you want a package deal I'll create a deal-price for you. Thanks!! Shipping only in the lower 48 states of the great United States of America. Payments can be made via PayPal only, and I will only ship once payment has been completed.
  16. So im looking to get a 2 Rockford Fosgate 12" P2D2 Woofers. And im looking for an amp that can power both these babies. Budget is 130 for an amp. And if you got any advice for a first timer let me know!
  17. OK! So this is my first car and i'm looking to get some a new sound system. I already have a "650W Premium 9 Speaker System" but it doesn't hit the way i want it to hit. The amp itself is a headache because it auto levels the music . So I'm looking to replace the amp and the subwoofer with 2 12's or 2 15's and a new Amp. But I have no clue where to start. Right now i have 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12's with a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D in my cart on amazon... box and all. I want something that knocks, I want to keep my current speakers in the doors and the navigation but i have no clue what to do. I looked all over the internet but this driving me nuts.
  18. Hey Guys, My 2006 Avalanche. Very small system compared to the monsters on this site. Im the little kid on the block. Suggestions and critiques welcome. **Updated 30/11/15** Finally got this done after putting it on the back burner for years. I absolutely hated the rake my avalanche had. Well thanks to Tony from TBSSowners, I told him I wanted to get rid of that and he suggested the 2" lowering belltech springs with bump stops. Parts came in Friday & Sunday was Funday. Original Height (Center of Hub to fender) Front Dr SIde: 20.5" Front Pass Side: 20.25" Back Dr Side: 22.25" Back Pass Side: 22.50"
  19. Hey Guys, Longish Backstory, I have been working on getting my system dialed in with my current car(01' Chevy Monte Carlo SS)It's great and I used the advice from here and some other forums to build my last box and it went great,Been using it for about a little over a year now and impresses all of my buddies. With me living in Wisconsin where there is snow there is salt and the poor monte is getting really bad in the rust department. So I found a Chevy Avalanche with 4 wheel drive for the nasty winters here. I just want to transplant my system from the monte to the Av. I don't want to do anything crazy in depth yet on the box because I would like to get another woofer to match the other because I have the space in this vehicle, but for now just one. The Box, I want to build a box to fit into the midgate space of a 02' Chevy Avalanche Z71. I have already a RF P3 D2 15 from my previous car and really want to stick with this woofer for budget reasons. I was playing around in WinISD and got a box that looked good to my untrained eye. Ported 6 Ft^3 Tuned to 25hz for a nice flatish freq response for the space I have available ( Around 6 cubes ) Port - 6in circle port, 15.8in long Link to Graph - http://imgur.com/Rhlk3cl What do you guys think? Am I way off?
  20. I have recently just purchased a Rockford Fosgate P3 12" inch sub. I want to build a box but not really sure if it's best to stay within the manufactures recommended dimensions of .75 to 1.25 for a sealed box. And then the subject of what provides better sound, from a box thats taller than long, or longer than tall. Then the subject of facing the sub towards the back seat or out into the trunk. Can some one help me out? I'm very knowledgeable to car audio, just not at going beyond manufacturers recommended volume and trunks.
  21. I have been looking around for a while to see if anyone is able to repair the 3isxty.2 Bluetooth issue as it seems Rockford doesn't do this anymore. I know its an old unit but I cant afford a 3sixty.3 right now and I have two 3sixty.2 both having the same issue. Unit works fine but no Bluetooth connectivity to make any adjustments so am stuck with whatever settings is currently stored in it. Any help would be appreciated, ideally I would love to do an exchange where you can fix both unit and keep one for payment but if not I would still pay for repairing one as long as its reasonable.
  22. Posted this in the wrong section. Moving here. Hi Everyone, Took me a while but I finally ran into SMD website since lately I've been upgrading my car audio for my 06 Avalanche. I don't have anything wild and probably will keep it this way until I can get the bigger bucks. I sure wish I had found this site before I went ahead and got what I have in now. Nevertheless I am content at the moment. I have a couple questions from browsing for the past 2 weeks on this site and watching all of Steve's tutorial and build videos. My build: HU: Pioneer AVH X4500BT (Will upgrade to NEX 4100) Subwoofers: 2 Rockford 10" R2SD4-10 Shallow 4ohm DVC Enclosure: Dual Sealed Amplifier: P500-1bd Wired: @ 1ohm using 4gauge wires (500RMS) Door Speakers: Rear: Polk Audio db651s Coaxial Front: Db6501 Components Amplifier: Pioneer GM A5602 Wired: @ 4ohms (150RMS) Like I said nothing too wild but a great improvement over factory. I already know for one after watching Steve do his thing, I want and NEED a DD-1, two) I want and NEED OM-1s. Lol Questions: 1) Since Im wired 1ohm using the above amp using the RF wiring guide for the above subs. Would I need 2 OM-1 to reflect 2 subs output or just 1. 2) When adjusting gain for mids & high, seeing that I have what I believe is a passive crossover, I tried doing this "by ear" and man do the tweets scream, don't even think I heard the mids, I don't even think the gain was even quarter of the way up before I had to back off. I know this wasn't the most efficient way of tuning but until I can get the DD-1, are the polks that loud that the gain would not even need to be adjusted that much even when using the DD-1? Sorry for the long first thread. Ill post pictures when I can. Thanks, Keagan
  23. Got a great offer on my kenwood subs so I sold them, looking to upgrade to some 15" fosgates, I already have a 1800w kenwood mono amp. Just wondering how much of a difference there is between the p1 and p3 models I'm looking at, the p1 rms is 250 4 ohm, p3 rms 600 2 ohm. I can get 2 p1's brand new for $200, or 2 p3's for $300, worth the extra $100? Does anyone have personal experience with both subs? Thanks!
  24. this will be a slow build due to alot of bills come first current setup as of now with alot to be changed kenwood kmm-312bt rockford prime 750.1 2 mtx jackhammer 10's in pro box :'( crunch drive 300.4 on tweets rockford punch 601s on mids 150ft of rattle trap 80mil js ultimate 250a alt stinger, knu, shca, rockford, and pheonix gold wire 4 rockford punch pro 6.5's 2 rockford punch pro super tweets to come 6 p3 15's in flat wall rf t2500bdcp t1000.4 rf prime 150.2 4 more 6.5's and 2 more super tweets and finishing my doors current pics of build so far. not including the messy trunk. will be finishing the doors this month sometime
  25. Ok guys, as stated in the title, I have a Rockford R750-1D amp. Birth sheet said it put out 880 watts at 1-ohm. Plenty of power out of this little amp. My head unit is a pioneer deh-p5000ub which is powering 4 kicker 6.5" coaxials (yes I know thats not the best but I was on a budget). The amp is powering two Rockford P-2 12" dual voice coil woofers wired to 1-ohm. I was looking for an amp when i came across one of Meade's videos dynoing this amp. I have the subs in a sealed box at the moment that so happens to be way too small for them. I am looking to make a new box for them but im in a Trans Am which does not have much trunk space. Dont want to remove the back seat either because I do haul passengers on occasion. Im also looking to go ported on the box but this requires me to have 3.58 cu. ft. of air volume. My question is; Do I have enough space to make a ported encloser or do i have to stick to sealed? Also, Meade, I was wondering how you hooked up this amp to your dyno to get those numbers. Did you just use one of the speaker outputs or both? If both, how did you wire them?