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Found 122 results

  1. The Altima lease is ending in a month. Time to say good bye to the SOTM winner and look to the future. Here it is... 2014 Camaro SS RS Package, 1LE, Dual Mode exhaust, and a manual. This car doesn't need anything! I'll tint the windows soon, but as it sits, its gorgeous.
  2. Here we go with another build. This one won't be as slow as the Chevy TB and I'm excited for that. This vehicle is my work car so I work on it profusely week after week. I am hoping to get this one done by end month so until then here are my plans. If what you see sounds familiar it probably is, but I won't tell... Thanks everyone prematurely for the comments and hope to have some good reviews from this build. Rockford Fosgate T2500bdcp Rockford Fosgate T-400/4 Audio Control Matrix Crescendo Symphony 5.25" Components Rockford Fosgate T1D410's Xs Power Kinetik Mechman OFC 1/0 Singer Alt Pioneer avic 4200NEX HU
  3. My good friend Aaron, aka Psyph Morrison, has never had a real system in any of his cars before. If you don't know who Psyph is (pronounced Sife), look him up on itunes, spotify or any other music app out there. Youtube as well. I have known him over 10 years and even worked with him on his last 3 albums as an executive producer. Ok, now that is out of the way, the reason he is getting a system is because well, the entire time i have known him and worked with him making music, especially music with a lot of bass, he has never had a system of his own. I don't know anyone who has had more car issues than him so we really never made it to the discussion of a system. Not too long ago he picked up a 2002 Honda Accord 4 door. I knew right then he has a reliable vehicle finally. So i offered to slap some beat in it for him. Watching him pull up, slapping his own music in a (not so great) stock sound system was really bothering me. How can my boy ride around like that if he know's ME? Long story cut short...his car is at my shop for a few weeks while i figure out what i am going to do. I have NO "plans". I just want to get him some good equipment, set it up proper and make him happy! ****NOTE, anything you see here is subject to change as i am totally freestyling this. Trying to just make it work. First i stopped by Arden Audio in Sacramento Ca. They always have what i need in stock over there and if they don't i can get it same or next day. I decided to pick Psyph up a new head unit first and foremost. I also got the dash kit and wiring harness to go with it. Grabbed some SkyHigh 16ga OFC speaker wire to run to the doors. The system will consist of (so far) Pioneer DEH X7800 BHS Head Unit Rockford Fosgate Punch 1000.1 (BASS) Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.2 (Highs) (2) Rockford Fosgate P3 12" subs (ported enclosure) (1) Set Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" separates SMD Fuse / Grounding Blocks Mechman 1/0 OFC Power Wire Skyhigh 12 and 16ga Speaker Wire I already had a P300.2 but i got him a matching 1000.1 to go with it. These P3 12" subs are not brand new but might as well be. They are in brand new condition! They are my old ones. This box was already finished and just hanging around the shop. I KNOW it sounds good so it should do great in his trunk! The trunk floor is at an angle so i have to make a platform and flatten it out some so the box sits level.
  4. Hey so I've only been having this issue since I switched out my subs and amplifier from a kenwood excelon set up to the rockford amp and subs. Whats happening is the amp BANGS all day no matter what at the lows but the moment it gets to a higher frequency seems like a punchier frequency (I wish i Knew what frequency it was but i Just know its not the low end probably way closer to 80hz), it goes into PROTECTION mode. I thought at first it wasn't getting enough voltage and my battery tested at 50% cause i do have a battery tester at our shop, so I changed my battery today and I'm still having the same issue. I know its not my wiring because i had no problems with others amps and subs ect. Rockfords support tech keeps saying its clipping at this certain frequency, which I'm not eliminating yet, but the thing is I have my gain set to just under 7, and it was still doing the same thing even when i had the gain set to under 5. and it doesnt hit nearly as hard as it should be unless i turn the gain closer to over half. I just want to know what i can eliminate and what i should try if you guys are familiar with this issue. If my amp is clipping why wouldnt it be clipping on the lows and only does it on the highs? Another thing is it hardly does it when I'm parked, mailny does it when I'm driving which is really irritating because I want it when I'm driving I could care less about being parked as this is just my daily driver. Any advice would help. The other 3 installers at my shop said battery and rockford only said clipping.. I also tested my alternator with our snap on tester and it also tested good. All that rockford said was too turn down the gain but I know those subs can handle what I'm giving them at least I would think.. Radio is outputting full 5.0 volts Gain = ~60% Lpf = ~25% Punch EQ = 0 subsonic filter = 50% 2005 Dodge Stratus 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D412s with RF R1200 Prime Amplifier 4 gauge rockford power and ground wire 12 gauge rf speaker wire down to 1 ohm Kenwood Exceleon kdc x501 subwoofer level set to +10 sub lpf set to through
  5. Hey Crew, I have some questions about setting up my system. So far it consists of: 2008 Chevy Trailblazer LS Pioneer FH-X731BT Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 Rockford Fosgate P1000-1bd (2007/2008) Rockford Fosgate PEQ Knob for Bass Rockford Fosgate P500-4 (2007/2008) Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro PPS4-6 Rockford Fosgate Punch P1T-S 2x Kenwood KFC-W3009 Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge Amp Kit Stinger RCAs Sky High Car Audio Speaker Wire I'm going to be using the 360.3 for active crossovers instead of the passive ones that came with the P1T-S. I'm using 2 channels of the 500-4 for the 6.5" and the other 2 channels for the tweeters in the dash. I'm gonna change that once I get a Punch 200-2. Then I will use the 2 channels that were used for the tweeters to power two rear speakers and use the 200-2 for the tweeters. The first thing I'm wondering is: if it's okay to run the 2 RJ-45 cables used to control the 360.3 and the PEQ next to the speaker wires and RCA cables along the right side of the car. Will this cause any noise in either the speaker wires or RCA cables, or even in the RJ-45 cable? Second question is: what's the best way to ensure that I'm not feeding too much power to the tweeters? They are capable of 60 Watts RMS but my amp is able to do up to 125 Watts RMS. How do I keep the Watts down to keep from blowing them?
  6. As stated in subject I'm looking for a rf t2500-1bd non constant power model. I have several references and I'm ready to buy. Steve Meade himself can vouch for me. Thanks in advance
  7. I haven't done one of these so bare with a bruh. This is a slow build as stated in the title because I get only so much time to do anything. I brought this vehicle to drive to work and relieve miles on my Altima plus do a lil car audio on a budget . So here is the truck.
  8. Scaifeee

    Sub Searching

    I'm in search for a decent 12" sub preferably under $150 that can handle 500 watts or more. Thinking about getting a Soundqubed HDS2 or S3. Any other suggestions?
  9. Sam B

    Punch bass knob replacment

    Looking for an cheaper replacement bass knob for my Rockford Punch700s (2000-2003). I'm sure you guys have covered this topic before on the forum but I'm new and it's driving me crazy. I can't justify spending $60-100 on a simple potentiometer and a phone cable. Thanks in advance.
  10. Right now I have installed: JVC KW-V50BT Indash 2- 12in Rockford P3D4 powered by R1200.1D Cheap ported box 4ga OFC power 2- 5x7 Apline Type S, 2- 5x7 JBL GTO8629 powered by R400.4D Shuriken SK-BT45 As of 9/20/17: I'm laying down some fatmat 50mil in the trunk/backseat area. Skyhigh big 3 0ga upgrade Skyhigh 4ga OFC power and ground
  11. Im really curious if you guys were going to build a van with a big setup (160+) for demos, to be musical around town etc. The van has to look good and still be very very driveable. What type of van would you use and why? Also would like to know what your favourite vans are that are currently competing or have in the past? Favourite by looks, favourite by their setup, or favourite because a mixture of both. The more pics the merrier.... Thanks for your time
  12. Right now I have a T3 components in the doors, T1652s in the rear (T400-4 amp) and 2 P212s (R5001xd 619 @ 1 ohm birthsheet). Ive been looking all over for an upgrade, first I thought maybe T015s and a T1500 amp. That set up would've costed me 3500 and it would've just been a big ass box in my sedan's trunk, likely not what the subwoofers really want or need. I then bought some 12s HDC3s and I sold them to someone else after being convinced the same thing. I started looking into DD and the size of their boxes are crazy big (and I do not want one subwoofer). So now I'm looking at having four P3D410s in a "show build" powered by 2 prime 1200s. With that said, I'd have more than double the cone area and more than double the power (does this mean I'll increase by 6 decibels?) What do you think of the build in question? Will I be impressed? Should I get a box for this or should I let them just make this "show build"? Meaning they'd want me to appear at shows to show off their work. I'll answer all questions! Links to videos of your own 10s would be acceptable as well.
  13. Hey guys, I'm gonna probably pick up this old silver Rockford Fosgate T2 12" sub, I wanna make a box for. My max dimensions for my hatch is roughly Width=38" Height=15" Depth=20" 3/4" MDF if thats cool T212D2 It would be cool to learn how to properly design a box for myself if Someone can show or tell me how. Thanks in advance
  14. b.ran4real

    Best AMP For HCCA 12.4

    Good afternoon everyone. I'm new to the site but not new to Steve Made Designs at all. I have a 2013 Volkswagen CC and I'm in the process of putting a system in. I'm going with two Orion HCCA 12.4. I need some advice. Which AMP would be better on these subs and give the most power. The Sundown SVC-4000 or the DC Audio 4.0K. Also would I need to upgrade my alternator for this system, if so what kind? Thanks
  15. Since I am looking at making some changes to the system in the 350z I figured I would post what I have now. Stereo Alpine 9861 HU Audiovox 7" monitor in dash Crescendo cz 6.5-Inch Two-Way Components Rockford Fosgate Punch 300s (2002) Rockford Fosgate Punch 500.2 (2003) 4g power and ground. for get the Big 3, it will be the Big 7. (special grounding kit for Z's) Sundown SD-2 D2 10" shallow mount sub. Batteries Plus X2 AGM group 35 Battery under the hood. DD-1 Amps are setup 300s on the Doors. 500.2 Bridged for the sub. Right now I am a sealed box under the rear strut bar. Engine and Suspension mods ( nothing special yet) Airaid intake SPL FLBS Z33 PRO Front Shock Mount Lower Arm Bushings SPL PRO Front Inner Lower Arm Bushings JDM Y Pipe SPL Pro solid diff bushing VLSD Diff (not stock on the Base model) Here are the pics I have for now. Additional pics to follow soon. new bushings
  16. I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU. I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice). here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html and this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
  17. This is our FAMILY station wagon that just happens to have over 300 horses haha Nothing crazy since its for Mama and the Kidz System consists of a the Stock Boston Acoustics sound system with factory speakers all around. I like the way it sounded for stock it was decent. Just needed to brighten it up a bit so I added a Rockford P400-4 and some Diamond D6 tweeters. Sub Stage - JL Audio 500/1v1 and a RE SE10 in an MTX Thunder form
  18. SoundofLife

    Upgrading my audio!

    I drive a 2015 Toyota Corolla LE. Right now, I have everything stock except my sub and its amplifier. I have 2 12's Rockford's P2D4s powered by their prime amp that shoots 500x1 @ 2 ohms. The birth sheet says 619, so that's 309.5 to each sub when the two of them can take 400 RMS. With my back seat down, and my windows down a little, i get a small effect that i love. It's the massage effect, also it some how improves the sound. Now, I want to multiply that lovely feeling by like 10. So I have been having a problem with deciding, do I want to go to T1D412s at 800 RMS or T1D415s at 1000 RMS. If I do the former, I'll get a 1500 watt amp, i'm sure the birth sheet will show the RMS at around 1620 RMS. If I do the latter though, I thought of having 2 1000 watt amps. I've been told that's better than getting one 2000 watt amp. Anyways, what say you on that notion? FYI: I do plan on getting T1675s in my doors and T1693s powered by 300x4 rockford amp. What would your car audio priority be in this situation? Improve highs and mids first, or shoot for the upgrade (and final change of subwoofers). Thank you! Also, I do have an aftermarket, but it's in the closet for now.
  19. SoundofLife

    Toyota Corolla 2015 LE

    Ladies and Gentlemen, audiophiles alike, I am driving a Corolla as my first car and of course i hurried into a system. Right now I have 2-P2D4 12"s in a ported prefab box. The amp powering it is a R5001xd that is 500 watts at 2ohms. The subs are 400 watts RMS. I use a stock head unit, with a Pioneer X4800BS in my closet until I can get the insides (that'll be like $200) to hook the baby up. For a month now I've been looking at subwoofers to replace the ones I have. I want to spend less than $2500. I prefer to stick with Rockford Fosgate but am open to suggestions. The 2 12s do bang, but they don't bang as hard as I wished they did. They disappoint me so that instead of going up to P3 I was thinking maybe a T1 15 but I don't think two of those will fit in my car. Can anyone shed some light onto me and some ideas maybe? Also, how much would YOU pay for someone to build a box in your trunk to accommodate 2 15s? Rockford does have a T2 13 that takes 2000 watts RMS but the monster runs for $1,299. The T1 12s are 800 Watts RMS but that doesn't seem like a big enough jump for me (that would be a 400 watt jump on each). Anything is appreciated people! Thank you.
  20. Hey guys first post, woo. I'm going to order 2 new 12 inch 2011 Rockford Fosgate P3's to go with my first generation JL Audio Slash 1000/1 amp upgrading from my 2 12 inch Kicker Comps lol, and I need help getting a new box. At the moment I have a "sealed" box with 1.18 cubes per sub. I say "sealed" because the front panel leaks like a bitch. It was my first build and I know I did a bad job but I didn't care it looked pretty. I don't have the money to pay the local audio shop 200 dollars for a box so I'm probably going to do it myself. My maximum dimensions I can go are just short of 16 inches in height and 33 inches long. I know each sub is listed as 1.79 cubes for ported and that's the box I'm looking to do. I want to do a slot port, preferably in the front with the two subs sharing it. I'm going for a tuning of 35-40hz I think but am open to suggestions to get the best of both worlds of SPL and SQ. I want it to hurt so lean more towards SPL. Also what is best box placement? As close to the trunk lid as possible facing outside? Because I've always had mine as close to the back seat as possible and facing to the open trunk. Could really use y'alls help!
  21. Hey peeps.. Here is a build that is happening on my car (by the company Loud and Clear). I'll post more pics as progress is made on the build. It's been a while in the works so lots of pics inc! Starting off with the outside:
  22. Disclaimer: Prepare yourself. Gratuitous amount of amp porn coming up! I bought the amp used from a friend in 1994 and it was built in 1993 which makes it a lot older then most of you on this forum... I popped the board out, here's a walk-around: Pic of the output FET's. IRF540's. Good for 100V and 33A each. In case you're curious: These conduct alternately from the positive and negative power rail to the speaker outputs. Pic of the Power Supply FET's. IRFZ40's. Good for 60V and 50A each. In case you're curious: These pulse the 12-14V from your electrical system through the primary of the power supply toroid transformer. They help turn DC voltage into AC which the toroid then can use to create a higher voltage AC. Power Supply Rectifier Diodes. U1610/U1610R. Good for 16A each. In case you're curious: These "rectify" that AC voltage that has been boosted by the toroid and turn it back into DC (power rails). One rectifies for the positive rail and one for the negative. Since its was a good 20 years old I wanted to refurb it since electrolytic caps tend to dry out and degrade with age.....or do they? I went to Mouser.com and ordered up a bunch of different replacement caps to see which ones I liked best. The amp was originally built with Nichicon brand caps (which most old school amps were) and they are great caps but it is possible for good caps to go bad after 20 years of intermittent use. I have access to a nice LCR meter at work. An LCR meter can measure impedance, capacitance and inductance at various frequencies and is very handy in determining whether components meet their specifications or not. Here are the old Nichicon's (from the power rails) on the LCR: They're rated at 3300uF so to my complete surprise they are still well within initial specs (+/-20%). (3mF = 3000uF). Here's the best available replacement cap from Nichicon since that series of cap is no longer available. As you can see, brand new, out of the bag and they measure ~2800uF and a slightly higher ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance). Here's another brand (Cornell Dubilier 3900uF): Here is a new cap from Panasonic which is rated at a higher base capacitance (3900uF): You an see it takes a higher rated cap to even come close to that original rating of 3300uF. Really justifies the saying: "They sure don't make 'em like they used to..."
  23. Well, I decided to change my front stage sooner than I thought. Anything I have BNIB has been removed for purposes of pictures only!! Up for sale is: Pair of BNIB SoundQubed QP-MR6.5 Pro Audio Speakers $50 shipped Pair of BNIB SoundQubed QT-CD25 (component) soft dome tweeters $30 shipped Two pairs (4 in total) SoundQubed QP-MR6.5 Pro Audio Grilles $12 shipped for both pair, or $7/pair One pair of CDT Audio crossovers from the CL-S60A - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers set. I have both woofers and tweeters as well (one woofer is blown, one tweeter has a torn lead that can be repaired with some solder and heat shrink). Only listing the crossovers, but if you want the woofers and/or tweets as well, let me know. Price for crossovers: $45 I also have two 1.0farad capacitors that were given to me back when I started out. One is a Rockford Fosgate 1.0f Punch Cap. Price: $50. The other is a Lightning Audio (also of Rockford Corp.) Strike Monitor, which is 1.0f with a fancy digital readout price: $50. Everything is OBO, so throw me a bone, worst I can say is no! if you want a package deal I'll create a deal-price for you. Thanks!! Shipping only in the lower 48 states of the great United States of America. Payments can be made via PayPal only, and I will only ship once payment has been completed.
  24. defakadef7

    What Amp Should i get?

    So im looking to get a 2 Rockford Fosgate 12" P2D2 Woofers. And im looking for an amp that can power both these babies. Budget is 130 for an amp. And if you got any advice for a first timer let me know!
  25. OK! So this is my first car and i'm looking to get some a new sound system. I already have a "650W Premium 9 Speaker System" but it doesn't hit the way i want it to hit. The amp itself is a headache because it auto levels the music . So I'm looking to replace the amp and the subwoofer with 2 12's or 2 15's and a new Amp. But I have no clue where to start. Right now i have 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12's with a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D in my cart on amazon... box and all. I want something that knocks, I want to keep my current speakers in the doors and the navigation but i have no clue what to do. I looked all over the internet but this driving me nuts.
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