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Found 63 results

  1. Right now I have a T3 components in the doors, T1652s in the rear (T400-4 amp) and 2 P212s (R5001xd 619 @ 1 ohm birthsheet). Ive been looking all over for an upgrade, first I thought maybe T015s and a T1500 amp. That set up would've costed me 3500 and it would've just been a big ass box in my sedan's trunk, likely not what the subwoofers really want or need. I then bought some 12s HDC3s and I sold them to someone else after being convinced the same thing. I started looking into DD and the size of their boxes are crazy big (and I do not want one subwoofer). So now I'm looking at having four P3D410s in a "show build" powered by 2 prime 1200s. With that said, I'd have more than double the cone area and more than double the power (does this mean I'll increase by 6 decibels?) What do you think of the build in question? Will I be impressed? Should I get a box for this or should I let them just make this "show build"? Meaning they'd want me to appear at shows to show off their work. I'll answer all questions! Links to videos of your own 10s would be acceptable as well.
  2. This is a slow build log because I need to get the truck running again first. Mods done to the truck over the years 305 5.0 replaced with a crate 5.7 350 330hp 400ftlb torque Auburn Posi with 4:10 gears Shorty headers Full Flowmaster dual exhaust from the headers back 18" Dante Designs wheels licensed with the Cragar Logo. Like only 200 sets were made from what I am told. shaved door handles smoothy front bumper Stillen Phantom grill BIG 3 stinger HPM 0/1 Mechman 370 and 250 hairpin Alt, and JS 350 hairpin Alt Rear bench replaced with custom mounted fold up jump seats. Billet Dash Belltech 2" 4" drop kit Energy Suspension Polyurathane bushings Body mounts, sway bar, control arm Edelbrock performer IAS shocks 96 computer replaced with 2002 GM 0411 PCM (easier to mod) Dyno tuned XS s3400 under the hood Automatic 4L60e to Manual NV3500 transmission swap. Luk Clutch Hurst short throw shifter kit High performance distributor from DUI distributors new carpet new Corbeau racing buckets Custom center console Leaf spring helpers still to be done Fiberglass doors Vinyl head liner Seal off blowthrough Vmax Manifold/plenum Spacer get retuned on the Dyno Caddy tail lights Equipment purchased for the System so far Copper CNF battery terminals 150' Sound Quest Hybrid 1/0 70% OFC / 30% CCA 2 Power T2000 Rockford Fosgate 2 Fi SP4 15's with the new surround 1 Power T15004 Rockford Fosgate 3 sets of Fosgate T1675-s for the doors 4 Rockford fosgate P2D4 8's 3 sheets of 3/4 MDF 72sqft of sound deadener 6 Datasafe 135ah UPS batteries Alpine IVA -105 HU Still to purchase for the System 1 set 4x6's for rear fill And finally what I have for sound today Crappy $90 Kenwood to get me buy (My cda-7878 died) 3 1/2" Fosgate mids for rear fill (powered by headunit) 4" Fosgate mids in each door (powered by headunit) 1" Alpine Tweeters in each door (powered by headunit) 2 Fosgate 8" D4 tuned 35hz 1 Fosgate punch 500.2 bridged to 500 @ 4ohm And now for pics of the truck and what it looks like today. used pedal assembly for tranny swap 1 of 2 new seats Hurst short throw shift kit Performance Distributor The POWER The Mess as it sits today And here is the box plan for after the truck runs again
  3. Hey guys, I'm gonna probably pick up this old silver Rockford Fosgate T2 12" sub, I wanna make a box for. My max dimensions for my hatch is roughly Width=38" Height=15" Depth=20" 3/4" MDF if thats cool T212D2 It would be cool to learn how to properly design a box for myself if Someone can show or tell me how. Thanks in advance
  4. hey guys, first time poster long time reader. Im hoping to get some good opinions on my issue as to what I should be doing as I don't want to be spending heaps of money on things and not get anywhere. I have a rather large Rockford stereo consisting of 2 T2500BDCPs, one to run 6 p3 12s and the other to run 4 punch pro 10s for mid bass, a T10004AD running 8 punch pro 8' mids, a T4004 running 8 punch pro tweeters, a T6004 to run my front stage, 2 3sixty.3s and a pioneer Dex P99RS running it all. Electrical is supplied by a mechman 370amp alt leading down 2 runs of 00gauge to 4 105ah deep cycle agms with copper bars and full stainless hardware. I installed this just on a year ago upgrading from my previous setup to improve efficiency and have longer runtime with the car not running, I do mobile entertainment hire with the car so that's the reason for the battery choice. About a month or so after I put it in, I noticed a noise coming from the pro tweeters. I turned off the rear wall as its separate from the front stage and had a look at what the noise could have been from. I couldn't find anything that jumped out at me so I just reframed from using the rear wall, little did I know that it was in the front stage too as it wasn't noticeable due to the pro tweeters in the wall have high sensitivity and the front stage doesnt. A few months later after the 2 new subs were worn in I noticed problems when trying to use the processors remotes, both would do strange things or freeze and turn off. I had the processors both checked by the company that distributes Rockford in Australia and they said they are fine. About 6 months ago I decided to ask my amp repairer if he could find what is wrong, the first thing he found was the noise coming from my speakers was an oscillating noise that, even with both processors removed from the car and the rcas not hooked up to anything was being produced. He then checked for noise on the batteries when the stereo is on and off, when on it spiked noise across the terminals. We turned each amp on individually and found the 2 T2500BDCPs to be causing the noise which then just to be sure, we tested them outside of the car on another battery and there was noise across the terminals. He is 99% sure its the input caps are failing and low in farads. Ive been told by a few people and the Rockford rep that I should install caps into my system and a few people say it wont help due to having a solid electrical system and how its used. Since finding out that the amps are needing repairs I have been waiting 6 months so far for them to fix them under warranty and still nothing as yet on what they want to do. They still work but due to the interference I get with everything in the stereo it annoys me to no end and the fact I cant even finish tuning is worse considering if have a lot of tuning ahead to do. My question is will caps help me or be a waste of money and yes I do know the proper use of a cap? I should mention that 1 T2500 had less than 4 hours use when it started making the noise as well and that both amps were not pushed hard only due to wearing in new speakers and subs.
  5. So, I will have a new build coming up soon again. It's not going to be anything fancy, probably I am waiting on recones for these as well as a couple of new baskets(anyone that knows that story, yuck). I should be picking up the amp to power them later today. I know these things will pound, our they should at least. It's difficult to get a box to FIT the damn things since they want so much air compared to most 10s. This is as big as I'm comfortable going and I'll have the power to feed these, so that won't be an issue. Let's see if anyone notices anything peculiar about the specs, particularly the port size.
  6. Since I am looking at making some changes to the system in the 350z I figured I would post what I have now. Stereo Alpine 9861 HU Audiovox 7" monitor in dash Crescendo cz 6.5-Inch Two-Way Components Rockford Fosgate Punch 300s (2002) Rockford Fosgate Punch 500.2 (2003) 4g power and ground. for get the Big 3, it will be the Big 7. (special grounding kit for Z's) Sundown SD-2 D2 10" shallow mount sub. Batteries Plus X2 AGM group 35 Battery under the hood. DD-1 Amps are setup 300s on the Doors. 500.2 Bridged for the sub. Right now I am a sealed box under the rear strut bar. Engine and Suspension mods ( nothing special yet) Airaid intake SPL FLBS Z33 PRO Front Shock Mount Lower Arm Bushings SPL PRO Front Inner Lower Arm Bushings JDM Y Pipe SPL Pro solid diff bushing VLSD Diff (not stock on the Base model) Here are the pics I have for now. Additional pics to follow soon. new bushings
  7. Hello everyone! New to this particular forum. I am looking to replace my old Rockford Fosgate T1 10D4 with something new. I ran the T1 for a long long time then stopped. I just don't feel it hitting in my chest like I remember. So hence the need to upgrade. I am running a Rockford Fosgate Prime R500x1d. Birth sheet says 633 RMS so real world I'm estimating 560 RMS. I have seen the SA-10 rated at 500 RMS but I've seen conflicting details. I do not want to under power this sub. I know the sd.3 is supposed to be more SQ based and has an rms rating of 500 rms. Obviously I would like whichever speaker I decide to have good SQ but I also want to feel it in my chest. I miss that feeling and watching everything in my truck shake. Any opinions or advice in either direction would be much appreciated. Thank you
  8. I drive a 2015 Toyota Corolla LE. Right now, I have everything stock except my sub and its amplifier. I have 2 12's Rockford's P2D4s powered by their prime amp that shoots 500x1 @ 2 ohms. The birth sheet says 619, so that's 309.5 to each sub when the two of them can take 400 RMS. With my back seat down, and my windows down a little, i get a small effect that i love. It's the massage effect, also it some how improves the sound. Now, I want to multiply that lovely feeling by like 10. So I have been having a problem with deciding, do I want to go to T1D412s at 800 RMS or T1D415s at 1000 RMS. If I do the former, I'll get a 1500 watt amp, i'm sure the birth sheet will show the RMS at around 1620 RMS. If I do the latter though, I thought of having 2 1000 watt amps. I've been told that's better than getting one 2000 watt amp. Anyways, what say you on that notion? FYI: I do plan on getting T1675s in my doors and T1693s powered by 300x4 rockford amp. What would your car audio priority be in this situation? Improve highs and mids first, or shoot for the upgrade (and final change of subwoofers). Thank you! Also, I do have an aftermarket, but it's in the closet for now.
  9. Ladies and Gentlemen, audiophiles alike, I am driving a Corolla as my first car and of course i hurried into a system. Right now I have 2-P2D4 12"s in a ported prefab box. The amp powering it is a R5001xd that is 500 watts at 2ohms. The subs are 400 watts RMS. I use a stock head unit, with a Pioneer X4800BS in my closet until I can get the insides (that'll be like $200) to hook the baby up. For a month now I've been looking at subwoofers to replace the ones I have. I want to spend less than $2500. I prefer to stick with Rockford Fosgate but am open to suggestions. The 2 12s do bang, but they don't bang as hard as I wished they did. They disappoint me so that instead of going up to P3 I was thinking maybe a T1 15 but I don't think two of those will fit in my car. Can anyone shed some light onto me and some ideas maybe? Also, how much would YOU pay for someone to build a box in your trunk to accommodate 2 15s? Rockford does have a T2 13 that takes 2000 watts RMS but the monster runs for $1,299. The T1 12s are 800 Watts RMS but that doesn't seem like a big enough jump for me (that would be a 400 watt jump on each). Anything is appreciated people! Thank you.
  10. hey guys im new to the forum. I need help designing a box for hdc3 18s. I want to build a box with a removable port for music and spl if that's possible. im running a RF 2500bdcp dc power 270 alt and big 3 with 2kinetic battery's my max demotions are H= 21"(wanted to keep below window line) W= 45.5",D=37" in a 2006 explorer Any help would be much appreciated.
  11. Disclaimer: Prepare yourself. Gratuitous amount of amp porn coming up! I bought the amp used from a friend in 1994 and it was built in 1993 which makes it a lot older then most of you on this forum... I popped the board out, here's a walk-around: Pic of the output FET's. IRF540's. Good for 100V and 33A each. In case you're curious: These conduct alternately from the positive and negative power rail to the speaker outputs. Pic of the Power Supply FET's. IRFZ40's. Good for 60V and 50A each. In case you're curious: These pulse the 12-14V from your electrical system through the primary of the power supply toroid transformer. They help turn DC voltage into AC which the toroid then can use to create a higher voltage AC. Power Supply Rectifier Diodes. U1610/U1610R. Good for 16A each. In case you're curious: These "rectify" that AC voltage that has been boosted by the toroid and turn it back into DC (power rails). One rectifies for the positive rail and one for the negative. Since its was a good 20 years old I wanted to refurb it since electrolytic caps tend to dry out and degrade with age.....or do they? I went to Mouser.com and ordered up a bunch of different replacement caps to see which ones I liked best. The amp was originally built with Nichicon brand caps (which most old school amps were) and they are great caps but it is possible for good caps to go bad after 20 years of intermittent use. I have access to a nice LCR meter at work. An LCR meter can measure impedance, capacitance and inductance at various frequencies and is very handy in determining whether components meet their specifications or not. Here are the old Nichicon's (from the power rails) on the LCR: They're rated at 3300uF so to my complete surprise they are still well within initial specs (+/-20%). (3mF = 3000uF). Here's the best available replacement cap from Nichicon since that series of cap is no longer available. As you can see, brand new, out of the bag and they measure ~2800uF and a slightly higher ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance). Here's another brand (Cornell Dubilier 3900uF): Here is a new cap from Panasonic which is rated at a higher base capacitance (3900uF): You an see it takes a higher rated cap to even come close to that original rating of 3300uF. Really justifies the saying: "They sure don't make 'em like they used to..."
  12. Hey Guys, Longish Backstory, I have been working on getting my system dialed in with my current car(01' Chevy Monte Carlo SS)It's great and I used the advice from here and some other forums to build my last box and it went great,Been using it for about a little over a year now and impresses all of my buddies. With me living in Wisconsin where there is snow there is salt and the poor monte is getting really bad in the rust department. So I found a Chevy Avalanche with 4 wheel drive for the nasty winters here. I just want to transplant my system from the monte to the Av. I don't want to do anything crazy in depth yet on the box because I would like to get another woofer to match the other because I have the space in this vehicle, but for now just one. The Box, I want to build a box to fit into the midgate space of a 02' Chevy Avalanche Z71. I have already a RF P3 D2 15 from my previous car and really want to stick with this woofer for budget reasons. I was playing around in WinISD and got a box that looked good to my untrained eye. Ported 6 Ft^3 Tuned to 25hz for a nice flatish freq response for the space I have available ( Around 6 cubes ) Port - 6in circle port, 15.8in long Link to Graph - http://imgur.com/Rhlk3cl What do you guys think? Am I way off?
  13. I have recently just purchased a Rockford Fosgate P3 12" inch sub. I want to build a box but not really sure if it's best to stay within the manufactures recommended dimensions of .75 to 1.25 for a sealed box. And then the subject of what provides better sound, from a box thats taller than long, or longer than tall. Then the subject of facing the sub towards the back seat or out into the trunk. Can some one help me out? I'm very knowledgeable to car audio, just not at going beyond manufacturers recommended volume and trunks.
  14. Got a great offer on my kenwood subs so I sold them, looking to upgrade to some 15" fosgates, I already have a 1800w kenwood mono amp. Just wondering how much of a difference there is between the p1 and p3 models I'm looking at, the p1 rms is 250 4 ohm, p3 rms 600 2 ohm. I can get 2 p1's brand new for $200, or 2 p3's for $300, worth the extra $100? Does anyone have personal experience with both subs? Thanks!
  15. The reason that I am making this forum post is to check my thinking with the pros so I do not waste any of my budget in building a bad box. Setup: 01 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS , (2) RF Punch P3 15 D2 , (2) Pioneer GM-9601 , In a trunk 4th order (hopefully) I used WinISD to get these numbers and I wanted a flat freq response rate from the box , so to achieve this I tuned both chambers to 30hz (Is this a bad thing to do?) The first front facing chamber is ported @ 6.43 cubes and the rear sealed chamber (subs mounted into this chamber) @ 11.7 cubes. Does all this seem Ok or do I really need some major help? Thanks!
  16. the t5 RF 6.5" comps are MSRPed at $1700 why so freaking much. 150rms so im assuming 300rms for the pair. has anyone heard these in person? anyone actually own these?
  17. I have 2 RF P3D2-15 in a 2004 avalanche midgate that are currently on a free air setup with my bed acting as a huge box. I have tried using a program to design my ported box but it failed miserably and sounded terrible so i threw it out. Now I need professional help, I already have around a 4" wide (may be wider not 100% sure ) 16" tall square hole cut for the port from the old box that i could use but I need the depth, width, port length, etc.. does anyone have a diagram they could give me or some tips? And the perfect height was also 18" so if that could also be a set factor that'd be great. Would like it tuned to the low 30s. Any help is appreciated thanks!
  18. This is my first true build by myself. I'm expecting some props and hate from this type of community and I'll take everything with a grain of salt. No butt-hurt here. For this build I didn't have all the proper tools or even the knowledge to know what the hell I was doing. So after countless YouTube videos and questions I've asked on Facebook these are the results that are presented. (FYI - My 2-chan amp blew the 1st channel and so my subs are actually just for show and aren't hooked up.) 2011 Kia Forte Koup SX Pioneer AVH-3500BHS head unit T600-2 amp 2x Punch P3D410 subs T400-4 amp 4x Punch P1562S component speakers NVX sound deadener in the trunk Custom false floor Of course this could have been done better, but I've had a lot of praise from car enthusiasts at the last two events I've been to. So for a first time this is pretty good I'd say.
  19. Whats up everybody! This is my first thread on here and I figured I should make it a good one. lol So I'm makin it my build thread of my new project. Some of you may have seen my Ranger on youtube. http://www.youtube.c...ettrickscustoms Bunch of cool stuff on there ranger and otherwise much of comin. So anyway I dont take many pics when we work just vid. heres the system I had and a distance test.
  20. ok, so this is going to be a real slow build with no real progress until sometime next summer (hopefully June). going through a lot of changes at the moment with a whole lot going on. anyways list of equipment I already have (2) t2d415 (in storage different state) (2) punch pro 6.5 (installed) (2) punch pro tweets (installed) (1) t400.4 (installed) (1) pioneer 80prs (installed) (1) t1500.1bdcp (in storage different state) (1) 10 farad Rockford cap (installed) ( yeah ive heard about caps, personal exp it has helped slightly with keeping voltage up) enough Rockford 0/1 gauge to do 2 runs and big 3 (1 run installed no big 3 on this car yet) plenty of 16gauge for the doors (installed) should have enough 4gauge for the amps singer 250 amp alt ( currently sent back for repair and external regulator setup ) fuse holders/fuses hx2 power 12" for a temp setup im going to hopefully have a box for it and installed soon. things I still need batteries ( for sure either platinum diehard or kinetic for cheaper price but proven performance) either t2 or t3 component set 2nd t400.4 2nd t1500.1bdcp smd volt meter material for fiberglassing wood, nail gun, wood glue, liquid nails ( in general box building tools, materials ) 8gauge for speaker wire lots of sound deadener not a whole lot on that list some spendy items that will take time to get but it shall be done.. sooner or later... the plan is to do an all Rockford build with decent sq and great output. not building for the meter but if I can get up to a 148 I would be especially happy. going more for my personal enjoyment and dedication to a great hobby. performance build what i have (installed) aem cold air intake aftermarket exhaust manifold 2.5"? (looks last owner did it im gonna make changes) exhaust from manifold back tein lowing springs rear sway bar (looks kinda like an eibach but don't know, aftermarket for sure though. light weight pulleys ( going to put a stock crank pulley back on because of the harmonic balancer ) what to get kyb adjustable shocks and struts all new bushing through out the suspension engine and tranny mounts clutch/fly wheel minor head work maybe raise compression a bit tune appereance cant remember the name of the stuff right now but that paint that peels right off when you want to change colors... hid fog lights hid headlights ( have but not on this car yet ) carbon fiber hood (installed needs touch ups) carbon fiber hatchdoor ?maybe? tinted windows 18" enkie wheels (installed) ill have to use my phone to add pics give me sometime for pics. for some reason i cant paste to this forum, works with everything else on my computer just not this forum.
  21. This build is expected to move slow. My plans for this build are to keep it small with a little bump and some clarity, but do it right and keep it clean. I want every thing done in a way that I can easily return the vehicle to factory stock. My thoughts on equipment Items I have Head unit - Alpine CDA-9887 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/cda-9887/ Subwoofers - 2 x Massive Summo 64 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74658_Massive-Audio-SUMMO-64.html vehicle deadening - KnuKonceptz Kno Knoise Sound Deadening Door Kit 14sq ft 80mil http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/sound-deadening/kno-knoise-resonance-control/sp/kno-knoise-resonance-control-2-door-kit-14sq-ft/ Rockford Fosgate T400.4 http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t400-4 Items that I still need to work on acquiring Sub Amp - Undecided but I know it will be Rockford. Either a P300-1 or one of those new PBR500X1 they bothe do 300 rms @ 2ohm The Box - Still undecided on the design but have been sketching up a few ideas. Speaker wiring - I will be on the look out for some 12 gauge OFC Power and Ground - Although overkill I will be saving for the Rockford Fosgate RFK1D DUAL AMP 1/0 AWG Amplifier WIRING KIT Door Speakers - Still debating a nice set of components for the front doors. Kick panels - Wanting to do a Mid bass driver in one of those Q-form kick panels that they already make for the F-150 Still trying to recover financially from my wife's trimalleolar fracture on her left leg. Thankfully she did heal well and is back to work now. That being said I have been collecting a little here and a little there when ever I had some spare change. Now on with the build and a few pictures. 2004 F-150 Crew cab (toreador red) This truck was equipped with the factory subwoofer under the rear seats. You will also see that I got the really nice floor mats to protect the carpet . And the very first and only thing I have done so far is change out the factory radio for an Alpine CDA-9887.
  22. There is a local show coming up for me on June 30th in PA...12v thunder hosted by 12v Dave... I had a box built a while back for two DAD bd 12's (fs of 28hz) (I wanted an enclosure that complimented the low end)..The enclosure ended up being 5.0 cubic feet after displacements tuned to 26hz (confirmed with an IM-SG1). The original build was this enclosure with the two DAD bd 12's on their own Skar audio 1500's at 1 ohm...It played VERY flat with a peak of 145.5 db at 31-33hz with the mic on the dash and driver side door open (termlab) and also a 137.7db at 17hz....I also clamped 1800 watts coming from the pair of 1500's... I had purchased four powerbass XTA 6000D's just for the hell of it and out of curiousity put one on the two DAD bd 12's at 0.5 ohms....Sounded to me like a 150+ at around 30hz...although the drivers didn't last long on that power (DAD bd's have two spiders total and are spaced apart...Here is a video of what it did on the 6k though... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUHmK_1ZTXQ A few months back I picked up a pair of Pierce Audio 1k 12's (fs of 37hz) for a client who wanted a build....I tossed em in this enclosure on a rockford 1500 bcp at 1 ohm just to break them in and did a 144.8 at 31-33hz on music (mic was in the same confirguarion as last time). The Pierces sounded good in this enclosure but definitely lacked the low end performance that the DAD's had....I wanted to demonstrate what two 12's can do at 20-30hz in the proper enclosure at this upcoming show, but the current subs wern't gonna cut it.. So I did a little bit of digging and ended up talking to Bryan Chamberlein from Sundown and told me had a pair of sundown X 12's that were there chilling at Sundown HQ and had some coil rub from testing. He agreed that he would recone them both for me with production soft parts and a deal was made. I am the proud owner of a pair of Sundown X 12's, he told me I will have em' before the show so now I just need to play the waiting game... The enclosure was temporarily sold in between set ups and was butched by the temporary owner and I bought it back from him at a reduced price...The enclosure is going to get a makeover and some threaded rod to add some support because I am going to invert the subs which will put quite a bit of weight on the front baffle (front baffle is a doubled up with 3/4" mdf too). The set up will be the pair of x 12's (dual 2 ohm coils) each wired to their own rf 1500 bdcp at 1 ohm. I am very excited to see this enclosure sounds with a pair of subs that are made for low end extension. Sorry about the rant, will upload pics and vids as stuff comes along. The enlcosure needs quite a bit of work done on it so posting this will give me some motivation to get work done (;
  23. This sub was bought a couple months ago and I've run it in a bandpass 4th in my center console on one channel from my Sundown 100.4 @ 2 ohms. Gain was set clean with the DD1 and it still looks and plays like new. I paid $100 for it just a couple months ago and would like to get $70 shipped at this point, OBO. I'm also open to trades. Edit- I forgot to mention, this is a D4 sub. So if you plan on running a couple, you can buy another D4 and run them at 1 ohm on a little 500-600W amp
  24. Can somebody explain what an item like this is used for. I noticed some stereos come with this and i was wondering what is is actually for. I always thought that high level output was measured in watts and used to actually power speakers and rca or low level is measured in volts and is used to "communicate" a signal from HU to amps/processors. Being two different types of power i thought you couldn't just split the positive and negative and had to use a high to low level converter. Can anybody shed some light on this topic
  25. starting my build on my car i drive an 08 mercury milan the plan: 4 rockford p3 10s 2 prime 1200.1s mids and highs are still under debate adding second battery (xs power) big 3 4th order and much more! weekend project was painting the subs to go with the design and color scheme of the car my lovely girl assisting with the painting (by assist i mean did all the work ) all taped up and perty like 1st coat 1st sub half done 8.5 hours later 1st coat all 4 done!! the next day (prolly 9 hours of dry time between coats) put on second coat of all 4 subs 9 hours later and some touch up after the second coat all done!!