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A Suburban A Warhorse and a pair of Double Dees


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Moar progress! I got some coil spacers to level the Suburban out with the added weight in the rear. Big thanks to Sir Lancelot for turning me on the these. Now if only he was around to help me put these in. Boy, were these a bish to get in. Made me feel like an amateur installing these spacers. :o I lifted one side of the axle and used a coil compressor to get the coil out. I wasn't able to compress the coil enough to get the spacer in. I guess I should have eaten my Wheaties before tackling this job. I resorted to using my uber cheesy orange HF press to compress the coil just enough to the coil and the spacer in place.

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Here is a shot of the spacers in place.

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Before getting the spacers in place the rear of the Suburban measured 37" to the top center of the rear wheel opening. The front measured 36" With the spacers in place and the Suburban weighted down the rear now measures 38" and the front measured 37". Weird, but it is what it is I guess. Any ways, check these next pics.

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Yep, that's three rows of seats. With the front bench, this bad boy seats 9. In Maryland this could be considered a bus. :P

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Still need to make all the connections to the amp. Last step get the battery rack in place and fire it all up. Cant wait. :woot:

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Finish this thing up already! I don't think I could stand to get that close without pulling an all nighter to finish it LOL. I absolutely love this build.

-Zach-

2010 Toyota Tundra
Full Hybrid Audio SQ

7" BDS on 37's

2000 Ford Expedition

160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD- :(

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Holy fuck.

I'm using the wire holes idea through the floor typ deal.

1 question, why not keep the wires running under the vehicle instead of goin in, coming out, and going back in?

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

Team DC

Team S.P.L.

Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

American Bass Dealer

XS Power Dealer

Audio Technix Dealer

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if you find that it rides rough because you lifted the coil without getting longer shocks I would suggest getting some helper bags.

I have them on my lowered hoe but they are used for towing

you just deflate them put them inside the coil and run the air line out to a nozzle and you can adjust your ride height any time for less than $100

they also make the ride a lot better!

and I honestly don't think I could say enough good things about this build! I absolutely love it!

I was going to just skip right over it because its not a huge system with a ton of cone area but I'm glad I looked at it because there is a lot of neat and creative things going on

keep up the great work buddy! :drinks:

Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple

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Holy fuck.

I'm using the wire holes idea through the floor typ deal.

1 question, why not keep the wires running under the vehicle instead of goin in, coming out, and going back in?

very very nice build but i have the same ? ^^^^^^^^^^

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Finish this thing up already! I don't think I could stand to get that close without pulling an all nighter to finish it LOL. I absolutely love this build.

LOL. I was thinking about pulling an all nighter, but the effort it took to get the box in made me realize I just need to take my time and do things right. I've already come this far. There still a bunch of small details I need to sort out, mainly painting and making sure I've got all the necessary hardware to hang the battery rack. Almost there. :)

so close to being done!! hurry up :popcorn:

I'm hurrying, I'm hurrying. :P

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Holy fuck.

I'm using the wire holes idea through the floor typ deal.

1 question, why not keep the wires running under the vehicle instead of goin in, coming out, and going back in?

Holy fuck.

I'm using the wire holes idea through the floor typ deal.

1 question, why not keep the wires running under the vehicle instead of goin in, coming out, and going back in?

very very nice build but i have the same ? ^^^^^^^^^^

Thanks fellas. :drinks:

The reason I didn't go under the car is because it was just too busy under there to comfortably run some cables there. First off with all the alts on the drivers side I'd have to snake the cables in between the frame and the engine. I felt they would have been too close the the exhaust manifolds. Additionally there is a big aluminum block/reservoir thingie on the frame all the brake lines go to. I think it might be related to the ABS braking system, but it could be ornamental, I don't know. Unfortunately it was right where I'd want to run the cable, so it would have just push the cables closer to the exhaust manifold. Even getting past all that the gas tank is on the driver side. It does have a metal shield that goes from the bottom up along the sides. I would have run the cables long the side of the tank. As a matter of fact that is why I made those four hole cable hold down brackets to do just that. I would have been like 6" from the drive shaft though, that would have been nerve wrecking every time I would have driven the thing. Running the cables in the car took a little bit of time but I feel it was my best bet. :)

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