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hey man an 18 is possible i fit an AQ hdc3 18 on a AQ2200 in my trunk <_<

it def got down! but it was a major bitch to fit that 6+cu box through the back seat and into the trunk lol. go with the 2 beefy 12s

2 Fi BTL N2 18s Fully LoadedSundown Audio NS-1Kenwood 845 HU Clarion EQ4 Juicebox 3100sKnu Wire"Big 3"Mechman 270a156.3dBTeam GG.

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hey man an 18 is possible i fit an AQ hdc3 18 on a AQ2200 in my trunk <_<

it def got down! but it was a major bitch to fit that 6+cu box through the back seat and into the trunk lol. go with the 2 beefy 12s

That's exactly why I didn't go with an 18. I want loud, but since I might not have this car a year from now I want stuff I can get out lol. After looking up prices, I think I will end up going with T3. I've been talking with JD and I'm willing to give them a chance after everything the company's been through. Going with 2 T.1000 12's and just have to decide between white Kevlar, black carbon, and whatever the red is laid on. Most people who've had them, love them. I know they had their problems and are trying to get back on their feet, and if I can help them do that by trading my hard cash for their product, I'll at least give it a try... once.

Oops. Forgot I have to convince the ol' lady. Guess I'll have to take her to the movies, buy her dinner, and a new dress. That oughtta shut her up for a little while. At least until I get the new amp.

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New subs have been ordered. Went with 2 12" T.1000's from T3, and now it's time to get building a box. Let me know what you think, this is the first design I was thinking. Both 12's in one box with an L-Port design.

The specs are:

T3Specs.jpg?t=1309793748

Here's my initial design:

T3Box1.jpg?t=1309793366

With 0.16 ft^3 of displacement each for a total of 0.32 ft^3 taken off the 2.687 ft^3 total box volume after port displacement gives me 2.367 ft^3 for the subs.

Take a look at this and give me any suggestions you have.

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port is kinda thin for my liking. also i'd do a little more port area and stay away from the RE audio calc, it tends to be off some. that says you're tuned to 33 hz, when realistically you're tuned to almost 36 hz before any sub or bracing displacement, so it'll only go higher

 

 

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port is kinda thin for my liking. also i'd do a little more port area and stay away from the RE audio calc, it tends to be off some. that says you're tuned to 33 hz, when realistically you're tuned to almost 36 hz before any sub or bracing displacement, so it'll only go higher

I wondered about that, I've heard that the RE calc is messed up. I'm still trying to learn how to use yours lol, guess I'll look at it some more later today.

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Here's my initial design:

T3Box1.jpg?t=1309793366

I like that box and it should sound pretty good. i would recommend more port area though and also trying to make your port open as close to in between the subs as possible so you dont have to worry about unloading on the one closer to the port

1999 Audi A4 1.8T:::

4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order

Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually)

MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs

Boston S50 Components in Front

Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear

40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier

Build Thread

UBL

1948 Plymouth

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I like that box and it should sound pretty good. i would recommend more port area though and also trying to make your port open as close to in between the subs as possible so you dont have to worry about unloading on the one closer to the port

If I jump the port up to 3" and the port length to about center, it raises my tuning to around 33 Hz according to RE, which would mean that it's actually sitting even higher. Plus I'd be running lower on box volume for the subs.

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