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before you spend a shit tone of money start with something that has not been mentioned like the fuel filter, its common that no one ever changes them and with fuel being restricted you can lose fuel milage and your throttle respones and add the fuel injection cleaner. on the pcv thing your motor wont sound like a rattle snake lmao the pcv will sound that way if it is good and you remove it and shake it around if there is no noise then its bad.these are some easy and cheap things to start with and i would bet it fixes your problems

diagram.jpg

this is a basic internal drawing of a pcv valve. majority of the time when they go bad the spring has broken, thus causing no resistance at higher throttle levels when needed, that's why they go bad. you need the pcv valve to close on wide open throttle, and open at idle, otherwise you will have what the computer sees as a vacuum leak, which will cause your car to run like complete shit. now when the spring breaks, what do you think that will sound like? a rattling, and if we get a new pcv valve with a good spring what do you think it will sound like? that's right, anything but a rattling. i never said the motor would sound like a rattlesnake, the valve will sound like one. and restricted fuel filter wont kill fuel economy. same amount of fuel in the tank, just takes a little longer to get to the engine, may give you some driveability issues, but shouldn't see any difference in fuel economy.

i do love how everyone seems to think that they have the magic answer when it comes to fuel economy. there is no magic answer, except regular matinance. as your engine gets older in age and miles your seals tend to start going bad, rings dontseal as good, valves dont seat properly, etc. etc. etc. all this leads to less fuel economy, and there isnt realy much that can be done for cheap. throughout my 15 years of being a mechanic i havent seen one person who hasent mentioned their "quuick fix" about fuel economy, and how they feel it is realy working, when in all reality it isnt doing adamn thing, what has changed is thatthey are actualy bringing their car in for service, and the subconceousley change their driving habits. there is no true quick fix. you have to work for it.

Edited by Bass_Man_2010

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before you spend a shit tone of money start with something that has not been mentioned like the fuel filter, its common that no one ever changes them and with fuel being restricted you can lose fuel milage and your throttle respones and add the fuel injection cleaner. on the pcv thing your motor wont sound like a rattle snake lmao the pcv will sound that way if it is good and you remove it and shake it around if there is no noise then its bad.these are some easy and cheap things to start with and i would bet it fixes your problems

diagram.jpg

this is a basic internal drawing of a pcv valve. majority of the time when they go bad the spring has broken, thus causing no resistance at higher throttle levels when needed, that's why they go bad. you need the pcv valve to close on wide open throttle, and open at idle, otherwise you will have what the computer sees as a vacuum leak, which will cause your car to run like complete shit. now when the spring breaks, what do you think that will sound like? a rattling, and if we get a new pcv valve with a good spring what do you think it will sound like? that's right, anything but a rattling. i never said the motor would sound like a rattlesnake, the valve will sound like one. and restricted fuel filter wont kill fuel economy. same amount of fuel in the tank, just takes a little longer to get to the engine, may give you some driveability issues, but shouldn't see any difference in fuel economy.

i do love how everyone seems to think that they have the magic answer when it comes to fuel economy. there is no magic answer, except regular matinance. as your engine gets older in age and miles your seals tend to start going bad, rings dontseal as good, valves dont seat properly, etc. etc. etc. all this leads to less fuel economy, and there isnt realy much that can be done for cheap. throughout my 15 years of being a mechanic i havent seen one person who hasent mentioned their "quuick fix" about fuel economy, and how they feel it is realy working, when in all reality it isnt doing adamn thing, what has changed is thatthey are actualy bringing their car in for service, and the subconceousley change their driving habits. there is no true quick fix. you have to work for it.

I know a quick fix, one of those tornado things you put in the main air vent............................................ just kidding, ha ha, those things are a joke, your so right on this though, it seems like lots of parts start giving up or loosing there top notch performance after around 80,000 or so, and you have to replace them if you want it running amazingly

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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S/C?

s/c would be more trouble than its worth.

I know but it sure would be awesome!!

(2007 Chevy Tahoe LT)

Mechman 320A

OEM AGM 

D'Amore Engineering HLC-2 Sig Converter

D'Amore Engineering E1500.1

Fi Audio Neo 3.5 12"

 

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you should also run some seafoam through your main brake booster vacuum line, cleans out everything around the pistons and that, make sure you look up your correct line, as on here if you dont know, it will cause a crazy amount of smoke and that, but its awesome :D if you want to see just youtube "seafoam" and look for some smoke videos in the pictures, ha ha

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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S/C?

s/c would be more trouble than its worth.

I know but it sure would be awesome!!

I agree adding a s/c would totally be awesome. But the amount of fabrication would be intense and I don't have the funds for that. A turbo on the other hand would be simpler but still not easy. Sucks tho cause turbos are freakin expensive just for the turbo with out the piping and stuff. Maybe I can take one off a car in the jy and just have some exhaust pipes bent. Most likely tho, I will just do nothing. Cept work on fixing what needs to be fixed while it can still be fixed

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I have a 93 Taurus that seems to have a problem. When I first bought it the gas mileage was pretty good, getting around 27-28 mpg. Then winter hit and my mileage droped like a rock, down to 22 mpg on average. I slowed down on the highways doin bout 65 instead of 70 and it didn't help much. Now I don't have a huge system weighin me down, so I know thats not it. Also my acceleration recently has gone down hill. Not sure what the problem could be. I'm not getting any codes showin or anything, its just startin to suck like hell. I've thought bout trading it in on a newer Corrola cause of the milegage they get. But under the suggestion of my grandfather I'm going to try and see if I can't fix this car first. So any ideas?

gas is made differently in the winter and performance greatly suffers from it..

also try blocking off half of the radiator with a peice of cardboard to get your car nice and warm.. if it gets too hot and tries to overheat then reduce the amount of cardboard.. a hot motor in the winter WILL get better mpg..

in the winter the air is also more dense and your getting more air in and the car shoves more fuel in to compensate.. also cold starts yeild a very rich fuel map..

also check the coolant temp sensor that goes to the ecu.. if this is screwy you will get terrible gas mileage and performance.

everything i have said is for cold weather climates where its normally very cold out all the time.

Edited by chewie

91 dodge colt gt..

4 custom t600 15s

audioque 3500d.1

tuned to 25 hz... stay tuned.

blazer

stroker 15

brutus bxi2006d terrible voltage drop

145.4@38HZ... SEALED LEGAL

Aim: chewieft09

www.t3audio.com

carpe diez nuts !!

my house is louder than your car...

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everyone has great mechanical suggestions here but I had a similar problem with my car. i changed the plugs and put in a cold air intake, changed the oil ect. basically what these guys said. I have a 2007 honda accord and its EPA rated at something like 30 MPG highway. I was getting about 18. I DO have a lot of weight in the car BUT i realized that if i keep the RPMs below 3k the car does substantially better on gas. i know that seems obvious but youd be surprised just how much gas is wasted when you open it up for short bursts constantly.

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