LT.Smoke Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 because its a daimler chrysler vehicle. and daimler chrysler vehicles are absolute hell to do anything on. Multiplexed everything. Ever do an alarm in one? If not you wouldn't understand. I dont think i could have said it better myself N8 Team MaxRetribution Si Vis Pacem Parabellum Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6 Bowhunting- Life Begins and Ends at Full Draw Bowhunting Team Fatal Trajectory Hunt Team http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/49335-sick96vtecaccords-t-line-build/?hl=sick96vtecaccord << Accord Build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/68498-smokedout08impalas-tline-build/?hl=+sick96vtecaccord << Impala T-line build Rebassed.com for all your music needs 👌 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 the installer is going to say its not his fault becaues he doesnt want to foot the bill. honestly i wouldnt have went with excessive amperage. mechman or DC and I bet they would have told you if you needed an external regulator or anything. If its not from them im not touching it anymore. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superjay Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 the voltage coming from the alt is probably around 15.4v. The computer should make an effort to regulate to 14.4v. if the voltage and current are too high the computer can't handle it and blows...that's why I think you need an external regulator that goes in series before the factory computer. Man I am no professional electrician, but I have to say, I think you are wrong. I see people running at 15v ALL DAY, no problems. Hell, mechman even sells adjustable voltage modules so you can set it where ever you want. And why would it be such a problem on this guys ride, but not others w/ similar setups? All cars get an 18v surge test from the factory, so why would 1 extra volt (or less) cause these problems on it's own? I still believe the problem is in the install, and if it was done right, w/o the isolator, and w/ a new computer, it would be fine. But that's just my opinion, I think you guys are thinking TOO hard! your video shows a Chevy...DataBUS2, not a CANBUS vehicle...MOPAR CAN BUS is the most sensitive system around. I'd be more inclined to run a MOST system at 18v than a CAN system. Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 the voltage coming from the alt is probably around 15.4v. The computer should make an effort to regulate to 14.4v. if the voltage and current are too high the computer can't handle it and blows...that's why I think you need an external regulator that goes in series before the factory computer. Man I am no professional electrician, but I have to say, I think you are wrong. I see people running at 15v ALL DAY, no problems. Hell, mechman even sells adjustable voltage modules so you can set it where ever you want. And why would it be such a problem on this guys ride, but not others w/ similar setups? All cars get an 18v surge test from the factory, so why would 1 extra volt (or less) cause these problems on it's own? I still believe the problem is in the install, and if it was done right, w/o the isolator, and w/ a new computer, it would be fine. But that's just my opinion, I think you guys are thinking TOO hard! your video shows a Chevy...DataBUS2, not a CANBUS vehicle...MOPAR CAN BUS is the most sensitive system around. I'd be more inclined to run a MOST system at 18v than a CAN system. Hey SuperJay. Well as u read the install guy is pretty much telling me I gotta foot the bill for the computer. As a compromise he said he would run the "floating electrical" system,mount the 2nd alt, and 3rd battery for free. I know it's all labor but it's all i got at this point. Anyways I wanted to know exactly how that works. Like how does the 2nd alt know when to charge the 2 batteries that are dedicated to it and the stereo.? To my understanding without the computer connection telling the alt that the batteries need to be charged then it won't turn on. So the computer has to be connected to the batteries regardless right.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purplehaze Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 He claims that there is no way a isolator can fry a computer cause all it does is open and close the circuit. So IDK..... Rt. But it's not the isolator that caused it, it was the way he hooked it up. How can it open and close a circuit if the circuit is complete on both sides? Plus their is a little more to it than just open and close. If you use an isolator, it has to be the ONLY source of power to the rear (secondary) batts. This confuses a lot of people, b/c it SEEMS like it's not charging the rear batt this way, but it is, only at a "trickle" charge.(THIS is why they SUCK for car audio) If you run ANY other wires to the amp or rear battery, it will then go around the isolator, and complete the circuit. Then it will cause problems, this I assure you. I really can't explain it any better than that. Man I feel for you. If it were me, I'd make him hook it up w/o the isolator, and throw on a voltage reg. just to be safe. And if it works right, than try it w/o the reg. If it still works right, then he owes you for the first computer. If it still fries it, than you have other issues. But I TRULY believe it will work, and you will have proved his ass wrong! Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purplehaze Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 your video shows a Chevy...DataBUS2, not a CANBUS vehicle...MOPAR CAN BUS is the most sensitive system around. I'd be more inclined to run a MOST system at 18v than a CAN system. In the video, he says that they have them for most all makes and models. I was just showing this to prove a point, but I agree about MOPAR being the most sensitive system around. I just don't think that alone is what fried his computer. I think the installer doesn't know what he is doing. Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Hey man, I have the exact same vehicle with a lot more equipment. Sent you a pm. I can walk you through the troubleshoot. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superjay Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 the voltage coming from the alt is probably around 15.4v. The computer should make an effort to regulate to 14.4v. if the voltage and current are too high the computer can't handle it and blows...that's why I think you need an external regulator that goes in series before the factory computer. Man I am no professional electrician, but I have to say, I think you are wrong. I see people running at 15v ALL DAY, no problems. Hell, mechman even sells adjustable voltage modules so you can set it where ever you want. And why would it be such a problem on this guys ride, but not others w/ similar setups? All cars get an 18v surge test from the factory, so why would 1 extra volt (or less) cause these problems on it's own? I still believe the problem is in the install, and if it was done right, w/o the isolator, and w/ a new computer, it would be fine. But that's just my opinion, I think you guys are thinking TOO hard! your video shows a Chevy...DataBUS2, not a CANBUS vehicle...MOPAR CAN BUS is the most sensitive system around. I'd be more inclined to run a MOST system at 18v than a CAN system. Hey SuperJay. Well as u read the install guy is pretty much telling me I gotta foot the bill for the computer. As a compromise he said he would run the "floating electrical" system,mount the 2nd alt, and 3rd battery for free. I know it's all labor but it's all i got at this point. Anyways I wanted to know exactly how that works. Like how does the 2nd alt know when to charge the 2 batteries that are dedicated to it and the stereo.? To my understanding without the computer connection telling the alt that the batteries need to be charged then it won't turn on. So the computer has to be connected to the batteries regardless right.? I think you need to take the guy to small claims court as for the floating system: this is completely isolated from the rest of the car. ALL audio equipment needs to be on this system only...radio, amps, ANY associated peripherals. the only part it shares is the chassis as a ground. 20 years ago there were no computers telling the alt when to charge the batteries, as long as you ahve a good regulator you'll be fine Principal JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasef87 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 I think you need to take the guy to small claims court as for the floating system: this is completely isolated from the rest of the car. ALL audio equipment needs to be on this system only...radio, amps, ANY associated peripherals. the only part it shares is the chassis as a ground. 20 years ago there were no computers telling the alt when to charge the batteries, as long as you ahve a good regulator you'll be fine I don't really think I could win in small claims court if the dealership or anyone else will specifically say it is something he did. And if I have to buy a external regulator anyways wouldn't I be able to keep the system together on the same electrical system. Assuming the alt charging a lil to high is the problem that is. Wouldn't the regulator eliminate the need to run the system seperate. Ohh and im still disconnecting the isolator. and Re-Running the amp to the batteries instead of the alt. Basically if I can keep the system together and just add a regulator then he said he would foot 1/2 the bill. But if he has to do all the extra work then I pay for the computer and he does other for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freshman6969 Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 well i read though 2 pages then realized something, my jeep (02 Jeep Grand Cherokee) on a stock alt charges at 13.8 or .6 i dont remember exactly, with a second battery and an optima up front and the big 3 done on a cold day it charges at 14.1, unlike 90% of vehicles that charge at 14.4 daily, if you dont have a MLA mod or some type of regulator it might have fried you computer, but it could also possibly be isolater or relay your talking about, thats just my 2 cents Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k! Why would you EVER WANT flex?huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct? My FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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