RAM_Designs Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 i use staples, its the glue AND bracing that holds it all together, i feel that staples are better in 3/4 its dose not split the wood , you can use more staples that screws if the wood is a little warped this is one of those topics , that will go on for ever , Pre-drill with the right size bit, and you should never split MDF. Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script> 2200+ designs since March 2011... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt402 Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 i use staples, its the glue AND bracing that holds it all together, i feel that staples are better in 3/4 its dose not split the wood , you can use more staples that screws if the wood is a little warped this is one of those topics , that will go on for ever , Pre-drill with the right size bit, and you should never split MDF. X2. i use glue, brad nails, & plenty of (predrilled) screws... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 While glue does hold the wood, MDF has a problem with coming apart just beyond the point where the glue soaked in given enough pressure inside. Been there. Glue it and screw it. Predrill with the right size bit and the MDF will not split. LOL at the sealed boxes just continue to build and build pressure. The woofer is moving in and out, not just one direction. And FYI - ported boxes can have more pressure inside them at certain frequencies than a sealed box. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 While glue does hold the wood, MDF has a problem with coming apart just beyond the point where the glue soaked in given enough pressure inside. Been there. Glue it and screw it. Predrill with the right size bit and the MDF will not split. LOL at the sealed boxes just continue to build and build pressure. The woofer is moving in and out, not just one direction. And FYI - ported boxes can have more pressure inside them at certain frequencies than a sealed box. hahahaa i know. i re-read that. hey i was having a crazy night when i posted that. alcohol ftw!! lol. ive just noticed personally that when i had sealed boxes that they had the tendency to split one of the sides loose than ported. But live and learn. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 It was a good laugh I had one better a few weeks ago: Was working with an engineer from a very large speaker company (will not name them) building a sealed enclosure for 2 8" woofers. We installed the subs, and I always like to carefully push in the cones a little and see how long it takes them to come back to resting position to give me an idea of how sealed the drivers are in the box. I did this and it looked pretty good. The engineer immediately began to take one of the speakers out. I asked what he was doing and his reply (this is no joke) "now I have to take one of the subs out to let the air back in the box." I said what??? He said once you push on the cone, it will never come back to true center. I laughed. He continued to explain a bunch of crap that I could not listen to, including this was a big part of their warranty - people pushing on cones and then the driver operating off center. I was still smiling big and he said I know you don't believe me. I said what happens when the cone moves playing music and air gets in or out of the box? What about the air inside the box heating up and expanding??? That will move the driver off center and it will NEVER come back!!! Oh no!!! He quit talking to me. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAM_Designs Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 It was a good laugh I had one better a few weeks ago: Was working with an engineer from a very large speaker company (will not name them) building a sealed enclosure for 2 8" woofers. We installed the subs, and I always like to carefully push in the cones a little and see how long it takes them to come back to resting position to give me an idea of how sealed the drivers are in the box. I did this and it looked pretty good. The engineer immediately began to take one of the speakers out. I asked what he was doing and his reply (this is no joke) "now I have to take one of the subs out to let the air back in the box." I said what??? He said once you push on the cone, it will never come back to true center. I laughed. He continued to explain a bunch of crap that I could not listen to, including this was a big part of their warranty - people pushing on cones and then the driver operating off center. I was still smiling big and he said I know you don't believe me. I said what happens when the cone moves playing music and air gets in or out of the box? What about the air inside the box heating up and expanding??? That will move the driver off center and it will NEVER come back!!! Oh no!!! He quit talking to me. LOL, I can't believe that...it's very hard to. Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script> 2200+ designs since March 2011... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 lol. well heres one that will knock you guys off your chairs and to the floors laughing. I was discussing with my dad how I am going to be building the box for my smd this summer and he said this to me "instead of doing all that work to tune it, why not just build a box that is sealed and drill a hole through it so that the air can escape" and best part is, i looked at him like he had 5 heads and said "are you serious" and he said "yes, it would make the pressure release from the inside so the woofer can breathe" rotflmao 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_DOG_LOZANO Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 I just read those comments and i LOLd. I also had a question about the gluing and stuff. Ok, my box has titebond woodglue (the red bottle) and i also screwed the box together. (Its a ported box for 2 12s) its been about a couple months like this. Can i take screws out now so i can edge my box with a router and make it look good? Or is it best to just leave screws there? (Im @J_DOG_LOZANO on instagram) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 I just wanted to day that there are members on this forum who use a nail gun for some fairly big/loud builds with no issues. As long as you use good glue and the right brads it will hold. screws have a nice bite to help keep a stronger hold but glue being the primary hold and brads/screws being secondary it will hold fine done right. box flex can change that though. Good bracing will help prevent the box from coming apart. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubtuner98284 Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 I personally live by the code of screws for ply and creating a baffle, and 16 gauge anti back out finish nails for MDF, with lots of glue for both. I have had too many screws split or strip out in MDF to do it any other way. Even with good piloting. I use Titebond 2 for most of my applications, unless I can not find it. If I cant get it I will sub it out with Elmers wood glue max. I would not use Titebond regular or elmers regular due to the fact that they don't have any water resistance. We all get moisture in our cars during the late fall through mid spring time. I have even seen cars on a mid summer day in texas wiping water condensation off of amps, without it raining. Some more than others. All it takes is something like getting in your car out of the rain, or loading your trunk in the rain. That water adds up after time. Running your heater really wont get rid of it. It just turns it into humidity in the air. If you do decide to run nails like I do, I would suggest leaning a bit left and a bit right every other nail so the nails go in at a little bit of a V formation. Helps keep the nails from pulling out because its not trying to pull straight out. When I screw together ply I drill a clearance hole in the face sheet (the sheet the screw goes through and not the sheet the screw goes into) so the ply gets pulled in tighter. This is how we do it on the boats so the slamming around in the ocean dosent hammer apart a cabinet over time. If it works on a couple of million dollar boat, it should work on our boxes. Anti back out finish nails have a coat of glue on the leading half of the nail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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