hdorre Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 How much and where can i get this said book???? I got mine from Amazon On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChillMasterWill Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 I can explain it in one word NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! William - Metter,Ga. Dad, Self Installer/Fabricator & Repair Tech, Weightlifter, Motivator, Team SKAR Audio Captain, Team Deadly Hertz Georgia Leader 99 Toyota 4Runner SR5, "Rolling Thunder" Daily Driven, No Wall, C-Pillar Build, BASS LIFE! 2K16 SBN MECA Park and Pound DB3 Champion 2K16 SBN ISPLL Real SPL Class F Champion Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Kenwood eXcelon KDC X498, Clarion EQ, Knukonceptz RCA's The Big 3, Sky High Car Audio OFC & Kicker Hyperflex Silver Tinned 1/0 Gauge Singer 340a Alt, Northstar NSB-AGM31, SMSAGM480, 12 NessCaps Super Caps Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty Line Driver, The Oval Port Tuned To 31 Hz, CNC Machined 4 SKAR ZVXv2 D2 15's, 2 SKAR SK-4500.1's, 4 SKAR PAX 6.5's, 2 SKAR LP-80.4's MEMBER OF THE YEAR 2013If you don't have any haters, get some, best motivation there is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 lol true Snafu is also saying to test before and after any changes to track gains and/or losses. Testing at the source, and at the amp, and any connection/distribution or junction point in between will reveal your week points. Yeah i got that much, but Trippi doesn't do the work, so i figured he wouldn't care about that. How you been Ed? Havn't talked to ya in a while. Text me some time lemme know your still alive and kickin. i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psychoacoustics Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 I think addressing the power delivery to the amplifiers will be a larger factor than most think. The RF amps use unregulated power supplies - less voltage IN = less current IN. Since Power is the product of voltage and current this will be a big factor, considering 11.5 VDC is 20% less than 14.4 VDC. If I were doing this upgrade, I would document the following before I changed anything: 1. The nominal voltage available with the vehicle at idle with the audio system muted 2. The minimum voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of one of the sub amps over a 10 second blast of said Bass Mekanik track 3. The average voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of the same sub amp over the same 10 second blast of the same track 4. The maximum voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp and the output stud of any alternator during this same time frame 5. The average voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp across the same run during this same time frame After you've measured #1, two good DMMs (one used for measurements 2&3, the other for 4&5) like Fluke 87s or 88s can capture all of this data in a single 10 second period. It's important to document this because you want a starting point. From there, you could easily factor this data as a percentage in a number of ways. Ideally, modifications will be made so that the amplifiers will see 14.4 VDC (when measured across the B+ and B- terminals) even at maximum output. Factoring only the subwoofer amplifiers here, and assuming each can make 3,000 watts RMS into 1 ohm (common), the math would be as follows: 3,000 x 12 = 36,000 Watts RMS 36,000 Watts RMS / 64.5% amplifier efficiency* = 55,814 Watts Input (on sine waves) 55,814 x 50% Duty Cycle (music factor) = 27,907 Watts Input (music at clipping) 27,907 / 14.4 VDC = 1,938 amps of current That's (6) 350 Amp alternators just to feed the bass amps. If I assume the length of cable from the alternators to the amplifiers is 20 feet and assume another 3 feet from the alternators to the frame and 7 feet from the amplifiers to the frame, this gives a net length of cable of 30 feet (not including the frame rail return path, which would have very low resistance). If I pull out my copy of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems (Hey, I refer to it too . . . LOL), and look at the chart on page 100, I can see that 1/0 AWG (as in cable that meets the American Wire Gauge specification) is good for about 140 amps (give or take a few) at 30 feet. This will require 14 runs of 1/0 AWG cable on both the power and ground side of things just so that the sub amplifiers can play music at clipping - this does not factor all those 1,000 watt 4-channel amplifiers nor additional batteries in the rear of the vehicle that require between 7 & 10 amps each to maintain a surface charge . . . That's a bunch of ring terminals to solidly affix to the ends of cables to minimize resistance . . . Yeah, I'm guessing there might be some "gain" in addressing this. After this was addressed, I would repeat steps 1-5 from above and factor all as a percentage. If Step 5 / Step 1 > 5%, then you still have work to do, although below 10% the law of diminishing returns will certainly be a factor . . . consider where that is currently . . . *found at RF's web site on the 2500-1bdcp @ 1 ohm - the 2500-1 may be slightly different. this is a great assessment and this is the kind of stuff that helps people get louder its all about the measurement and documentation when there is a change or problem..... however the main supply is from the batteries if the voltage is dropping that low there isnt enough current supply = not enough batteries you should have 100 ah per 1000 watts just having 14,16 or 18 volt isnt going to help if there isnt amperage to back it remember ohms law ( for 2500 watts at 12 it takes 187 amps but at 14.4 it takes 173 amps) i say this cuz from the few build pics ive seen there are a ton of batteries on each side so the 30 foot power wire isnt as much of a factor for short length demos it will come in to play when you leave it on for long times with out a charger or the alternators running. its great to get into the math and your obviously good at it nice post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCmagnum Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Holy shit. Why am I dizzy ="Impact"] pioneer 4200 dvd 4 sets aa carbon mids 2 sets rockford power t1 tweeters rockford power t400.4 rockford power 4inch DC 175.4 DC 3.5k (soon to be 2) 2 DC XL 15s The artist formally known as willie3719 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdMoron Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Just thought I would say hey to Trippi and Ed. I met Trippi at SBN and he was a really cool guy. Talked about the hummer and what not and they even gave me a demo It is honestly the cleanest 157 ive ever heard. Ive followed the build since trippi made the first post and nobody believed he had 6 SMDs lol Btw Im gonna upload that video of a walk around of the hummer when there was nobody around and the truck was playing music :] -Bryan 1995 Chevy Camaro Alpine CDA-7892 1 SA-12 DD CM1 @1 ohms XS Power D1200 Knukoncepts Fleks Coming soon.... Beyma mids and highs, alot of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chode69 Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 *ahem* 155 non walled with smd's, 157 walled with smd's, .. 5 db gain from switching to T3 subs? *walks away* *ahem* there wasnt a 5 db gain *walks away* but Trippi did say it SOUNDED louder and hit harder. which sounds good to me for a drop in maybe the T3's did better with the low power levels since by eds own word the subs are seeing less than 2kw each and its a known fact that the SMD's need a minimum of 3500w or its a waste of time.... Id like to see a comparison between the two woofers with power and current issues taken care of. VERY good point!!! NoFearX18 said: Nick will bang just about anything.....LMAO....pun intended On 4/13/2010 at 9:51 AM, meade916 said: i was like DAMN, Chode is hardcore! he makes james look like a friendly person LOL! trainman0978 said: I dont know who is worse with the buttholes Chode or Big P... Team Deadly Hertz / Team DC Audio / Team XS Power 2010 DC AUDIO MEMBER OF THE YEAR!!! DuckretaryFEAR THE DUCK Durangho Chodes Blowthrough Build Youtube vids Muh Wife Need DC Audio? Hit me up for pricing!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trippi Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Just thought I would say hey to Trippi and Ed. I met Trippi at SBN and he was a really cool guy. Talked about the hummer and what not and they even gave me a demo It is honestly the cleanest 157 ive ever heard. Ive followed the build since trippi made the first post and nobody believed he had 6 SMDs lol Btw Im gonna upload that video of a walk around of the hummer when there was nobody around and the truck was playing music :] -Bryan What's up Brian..nice meeting you too. And thanks for the vid ~~~~CHODE FTW~~~~ DC4LYFE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Each D1400 has a 50AH rating - 20 x 50 = 1,000AH. Out of curiosity, what do these batteries rest at? 14.7 VDC? Higher? Also, from what I've learned from Scottie, it would appear that their batteries require only an amp or so to maintain a surface charge. This is definitely a plus. Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelowdmazda Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 It's none of my business as this is NOT my vehicle and I have NEVER worked on it ever. I would like to say a few things, some may go well and some may not. I could give a flying fuck if you or god himself changed out the woofers in Trippi's truck ( forgive me if i spelled your name wrong) My issue was with your ASSOCIATE and the shit he post about Rick. I don't care how mad and uspet you were at that early in the morning there was still no call for it. Period. The bashing that he did was unthinkable and if it was me I would have been locked up somewhere. The blatant disregard for respect is what fueled my hate apology or not and you trying to site up there and make it seem like it's ok is a bunch of bullshit as well. You knew he was wrong, as well as all the other folks who saw the post before your "ASSOCIATE" took it down. Kinda funny how you ignored this part ed. Care to" elaborate on this" ??? 91 MAZDA B2600 EXTRA CAB 4 LVL 4 15'S W/ LVL 5 COILS WALLED ON A DC 7.5 K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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