TeejayBee Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 Anyone have a site or anyone know where the o2 senors are on my 08 rabbit, 2,5L any helpers are appreciated i have this p0140 code and i wana try to fix it sometime before next year for inspection because i don't wana constantly have to spend 150$ a year to pass emissions in PA so any helpers lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blownengine Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 They are normally right off of the exhaust manifold or a little bit further down. A good rule of thumb is to imagine the worst, most cramped place possible. That's probably where it is. Haha Quote 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT (Yea its got a Hemi)Alpine CDA-105KnuKonceptz 0ga CCA Big 3 with Yellow Top 15" SoundQubed HDC3DC Audio 1.2K (Bass)Pioneer 6x9's (Front)Pioneer 6.5's (Rear)Kicker 3.5's (Dash)Sony amp on the highs. (Hey it was free) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeejayBee Posted March 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 yeah i figured this code is prolly gona break the bank im hoping its just a harness problem because i think a pcm is a good chunk of change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 They are normally right off of the exhaust manifold or a little bit further down. A good rule of thumb is to imagine the worst, most cramped place possible. That's probably where it is. Haha that's about right, in my caravan, I had to put it up on jacks, run my arm up the exhaust manifold, following the Cadillac converter, basically going about 3 feet up into the engine, then to unscrew it without seeing it, so I had the engine running to build heat up so that it would come out, man was that an interesting experience, I will say, order the socket end that you use to take out o2 sensors, it was worth the 10 dollars it cost easily!!!!!!! not fun trying to use a big ass socket set to get something you can't see out, but hey, saved me about $300 in shop fees, I will do it again, if you can see it, then its easy as pie!!! you can get the sensors for about 35 bucks each online, I got ngk/ntk, which was oem brand, mopar contracts with them for chrysler and dodge products, they make good shit! Quote 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassHZ Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 also one on the cat or after the cat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy_chick3n Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) They are normally right off of the exhaust manifold or a little bit further down. A good rule of thumb is to imagine the worst, most cramped place possible. That's probably where it is. Haha that's about right, in my caravan, I had to put it up on jacks, run my arm up the exhaust manifold, following the Cadillac converter, basically going about 3 feet up into the engine, then to unscrew it without seeing it, so I had the engine running to build heat up so that it would come out, man was that an interesting experience, I will say, order the socket end that you use to take out o2 sensors, it was worth the 10 dollars it cost easily!!!!!!! not fun trying to use a big ass socket set to get something you can't see out, but hey, saved me about $300 in shop fees, I will do it again, if you can see it, then its easy as pie!!! you can get the sensors for about 35 bucks each online, I got ngk/ntk, which was oem brand, mopar contracts with them for chrysler and dodge products, they make good shit! not to be an ass, but it is catalytic, not cadillac. and op on newer cars there is an o2 infront and behind the catalytic converter. anymore the o2 sensors arnt terrible to get at, just mainly rusted in. if you have to use penetrating oil use the deep creep by sea foam. it is amazing Edited April 3, 2011 by Bass_Man_2010 Quote This page is crispy_chick3n approved. © crispy_chick3n inc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 They are normally right off of the exhaust manifold or a little bit further down. A good rule of thumb is to imagine the worst, most cramped place possible. That's probably where it is. Haha that's about right, in my caravan, I had to put it up on jacks, run my arm up the exhaust manifold, following the Cadillac converter, basically going about 3 feet up into the engine, then to unscrew it without seeing it, so I had the engine running to build heat up so that it would come out, man was that an interesting experience, I will say, order the socket end that you use to take out o2 sensors, it was worth the 10 dollars it cost easily!!!!!!! not fun trying to use a big ass socket set to get something you can't see out, but hey, saved me about $300 in shop fees, I will do it again, if you can see it, then its easy as pie!!! you can get the sensors for about 35 bucks each online, I got ngk/ntk, which was oem brand, mopar contracts with them for chrysler and dodge products, they make good shit! not to be an ass, but it is catalytic, not cadillac. and op on newer cars there is an o2 infront and behind the catalytic converter. anymore the o2 sensors arnt terrible to get at, just mainly rusted in. if you have to use penetrating oil use the deep creep by sea foam. it is amazing I knew I spelt that wrong, ha ha Quote 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nautical7 Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) What is the code translated? And as said, it'll be on the exhaust work and usually a pain to replace, but usually it's because it's stuck into place. If you can get to it then it is fairly straight forward to replace. Depending on the code I highly doubt it's the PCM. Edit - searched for code. Here's a link to help you track it down if you haven't seen it. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0140 I would still try to check out the sensors if you can and go from there, but the solutions listed on the page would be the way I'd do it. Edited April 3, 2011 by CFallsFbody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytrkdrvr Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytrkdrvr Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Oxygen Sensor Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter, Checking Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required * Multimeter * wiring diagrams NOTE: When servicing terminals in harness connector of Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) G130, use only gold-plated terminals. Test requirements * Fuse for Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) G130 OK. * Oxygen Sensor (O2S) 1 (behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC)) Heater Z29 OK. See: Oxygen Sensor\Testing and Inspection\Oxygen Sensor Heater Z29, Checking * Battery voltage at least 12.5 volts . * All electrical consumers such as, lights and rear window defroster, switched off. * Vehicles with automatic transmission, selector lever in position "P" or "N". * A/C switched off. * Ground (GND) connections between engine/transmission/chassis OK. * Exhaust system between catalytic converter and cylinder head properly sealed. * Coolant Temperature at least 80 degrees C . Test procedure * Perform a preliminary check to verify the customers complaint. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Preliminary Check Function test * Perform the function test in Diagnostic Mode 06. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Mode 06 - Read Test Results For Specific Diagnostic Functions If the specified values are not obtained: Start diagnosis * Check the electrical harness connector for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals. * Disconnect the 4-pin electrical harness connector - 1 - from the Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) G130. * Using a Multimeter, check the component terminals 3 to 4 for voltage. Specified value: 0.400 to 0.500 Volts * Switch ignition off. If specified value is not obtained: * Replace Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) G130. If specified value is obtained: Testing of oxygen sensor wires * Using the Multimeter, check the following wiring connections for an open circuit. Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J623 Three Way Catalytic Converter electrical connector T121 G(TWC) 130 electrical harness connector terminal or test box socket Pin 3 10 Pin 4 11 Specified resistance 1.5 ohms max. If the specification is not obtained: * Check the wiring for a short circuit to Battery positive (+) or an open circuit. * If necessary, repair the wiring connection. * Erase the DTC memory. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Mode 04 - Erase DTC Memory * Perform a road test to verify repair. If the DTC does not return: Repair complete, Generate readiness code. See: Monitors, Trips, Drive Cycles and Readiness Codes * End diagnosis. If the DTC does return and no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage supply was OK: * Replace the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J623. * Assembly is performed in the reverse of the removal. Final procedures After the repair work, the following work steps must be performed in the following sequence: 1. Check the DTC memory. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Mode 03 - Read DTC Memory 2. If necessary, erase the DTC memory. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Mode 04 - Erase DTC Memory 3. If the DTC memory was erased, generate readiness code. See: Monitors, Trips, Drive Cycles and Readiness Codes End of Diagnosis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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