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Should I add the Capacitor?


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lol, if my posts are to long it gives u enough time to fap befor u post a responce to it :drinks::peepwall:

but ya, booty ftw! :yahoo::pardon::popcorn:

bro it doesn't matter, I read a line look at yur avatar, read a line look at yur avatar, its so damn distracting haha

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a cap does work, but it dont have enough resurve to keep discharging like a regular battery does, with a battery u can wang on it and it will still put out amperage while charging itself back up, but with a cap, once its discharged it will have to charge back fully to get back its efficency, this is why people spend big money on high amp hr batteries so when they need the power its there, rather than letting it charge

Are you serious? People have big batteries for reserve so the strain isn't constant on the alternator. If you have a cap, tiny as fuck reserve, what do you think its going to do for the alternator? Nothing. It actually adds more strain since the cap needs to be filled all the time because it will be depleted all the time. Hell just off headunit power, your way of thinking still doesn't works lol. Also, a cap with half capacity will have a voltage of half as well and that accounts for a lot compared to a battery that will still have a voltage within 10% of of say 12volt even half way depleted.

and with a cap u can run ur system with car off, but its not recomended, i would say do big 3, get a good starter battery and run the cap

Hell to the no the OP can't run his system with the car off just with a cap. How much energy do you think a 25 farad cap holds?

i honestly dont see why people hate caps as much as they do, would work good to help take the strain off the alt at big amp peaks, and smooth out the voltage drop, i might hook mine back up just to see what it will do to help me, i got a stinger sp800 but it wont charge over 10.8v, i dunno if its hurting me more than helping

No again. If you have a 120 amp alt and a 25 farad cap, how many amps are being pulled from the alt at instantaneous draw?

Dude, you obviously don't know anything about the charging system if you think your stinger hasn't taken a shit yet if it can't charge over 10.8 volts.

the reason people dont like caps as they have no resurve supply like a deep cycle battery does, once they get charged they discharge and so on, there constantly pulling and pushing power,

You just contradicted yourself from the beginning.

The only good thing about your post is your avatar.

Edited by slim2fattycake

SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some.

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Agreed. Being an electrical engineer in training I could probably help a bit with the cap issues but I can't get through the post without getting distracted.

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a cap does work, but it dont have enough resurve to keep discharging like a regular battery does, with a battery u can wang on it and it will still put out amperage while charging itself back up, but with a cap, once its discharged it will have to charge back fully to get back its efficency, this is why people spend big money on high amp hr batteries so when they need the power its there, rather than letting it charge

Are you serious? People have big batteries for reserve so the strain isn't constant on the alternator. If you have a cap, tiny as fuck reserve, what do you think its going to do for the alternator? Nothing. It actually adds more strain since the cap needs to be filled all the time because it will be depleted all the time. Hell just off headunit power, your way of thinking still doesn't works lol. Also, a cap with half capacity will have a voltage of half as well and that accounts for a lot compared to a battery that will still have a voltage within 10% of of say 12volt even half way depleted.

and with a cap u can run ur system with car off, but its not recomended, i would say do big 3, get a good starter battery and run the cap

Hell to the no the OP can't run his system with the car off just with a cap. How much energy do you think a 25 farad cap holds?

i honestly dont see why people hate caps as much as they do, would work good to help take the strain off the alt at big amp peaks, and smooth out the voltage drop, i might hook mine back up just to see what it will do to help me, i got a stinger sp800 but it wont charge over 10.8v, i dunno if its hurting me more than helping

No again. If you have a 120 amp alt and a 25 farad cap, how many amps are being pulled from the alt at instantaneous draw?

Dude, you obviously don't know anything about the charging system if you think your stinger hasn't taken a shit yet if it can't charge over 10.8 volts.

the reason people dont like caps as they have no resurve supply like a deep cycle battery does, once they get charged they discharge and so on, there constantly pulling and pushing power,

You just contradicted yourself from the beginning.

The only good thing about your post is your avatar.

some of what u typed is ok but soem of it is invaled, u can run a system with car off and when i had mine in with a cap i ran it about 3hrs one night sometimes full tilt with car off and never had a problem with it, 90% of the times i demoed my system was with the car off, and i still do sometimes

i dont think u read the full post befor u started changing stuff around, i said batteries are better, but a cap does work when it needs to, a 25f cap is like a 25hr battery, and those kinda batteries are on a powerwheels car, they work with small amounts of wattage but when ur going with that big of an amp its not really suited, i'll buy the cap off of OP if he wants to sell it, caps have always worked fine for me, but when u look at it a tsunami cap is around $250, u can get a decently large battery for that price, but what a cap is ment for is to take strain off the front battery during playing ur system with car off, i was runing about 700w rms with a 1050ca durlast gold top wit a 1f cap and it did fine

yes a cap does put strain on most things but with that much power i dont see how it could hurt if dude was wanting to run it temp befor he gets a battery, imo i cant really tell from doing a big 3 with stock alt as i did with stock 4guage

running that much power wit a cap is like putting a condom on a broke dick, it might work for a while but it will hurt u in the end, that cap will work for a 1200w amp or so, that big of one ur trying to run might not like it

theres no harm in trying for a little bit, i mean it might work if u wire ur subs as high of an ohm load till u get the electrical to run that amp

how to hook up a cap u run the wire from front battery to cap pos, then another wire from cap pos to amp pos, u can wire the caps ground and amp ground to the same spot, people like to move em around but i dont, and the wire u need for ur amp needs to be ran threw the cap to help wit current flow

its will work but not as efficient as a battery would, as i stated up there, a cap does what it needs to and thats all

here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp

here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car

heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit

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Are you serious? People have big batteries for reserve so the strain isn't constant on the alternator. If you have a cap, tiny as fuck reserve, what do you think its going to do for the alternator? Nothing. It actually adds more strain since the cap needs to be filled all the time because it will be depleted all the time. Hell just off headunit power, your way of thinking still doesn't works lol. Also, a cap with half capacity will have a voltage of half as well and that accounts for a lot compared to a battery that will still have a voltage within 10% of of say 12volt even half way depleted.

Actually, the big batteries put more of a strain on the alternator than any capacitor would. People use banks to maintain consistent voltage under a load since majority of alternator setups cannot keep up with large systems. Each battery draws 2-10A for charging constantly. A capacitor cleans up unforeseen dips in power, assuming you have very little drop in the first place. With his setup, I'm saying use the thing.

And if your capacitor is properly installed, it will never be at half capacity.

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Ugh...I'm getting out of here. Too much bad info from everybody. OP, feel free to pm me.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]


Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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i dont think u read the full post befor u started changing stuff around, i said batteries are better, but a cap does work when it needs to, a 25f cap is like a 25hr battery, and those kinda batteries are on a powerwheels car, they work with small amounts of wattage but when ur going with that big of an amp its not really suited, i'll buy the cap off of OP if he wants to sell it, caps have always worked fine for me, but when u look at it a tsunami cap is around $250, u can get a decently large battery for that price, but what a cap is ment for is to take strain off the front battery during playing ur system with car off, i was runing about 700w rms with a 1050ca durlast gold top wit a 1f cap and it did fine

Can you show me the equations you use to come up with 25farad = 25ah?

And you said you ran 700 watts off a duralast gold and a cap and the cap did fine. Well, I wonder why the cap did fine, the battery is what was really be utilized. Without the cap there, it would still have been fine. Take the battery away and just have the cap and see what it does.

SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some.

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Some of the responses in this thread I just :omgwtf: LOL. Don't use the cap, it is a waste. Cap only work if you can maintain voltage. Once you start to drop what voltage do you think the cap is at? If you aren't dropping voltage with a cap, you won't be without it either.

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