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Okay so I installed a system for a guy, sub, amp, mids and highs, mids and highs amp. Anyway on the crossover he went and changed the switch from -2 to +2 and ended up blowing his tweeters without asking me or telling me and now wants them replaced...should I warranty this and replace his tweeters for him, or charge him for new tweeters? I offered to change them out for new tweeters at no charge as long as he bought the tweeters but he didn't seem happy with that solution...what should I do?

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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I would give him the address of the manufacturer and tell him that only defects are covered under warranty. Tell him to send it off to them and let them make the call.

Edited by huh?do-what?

God damn its hot today. My balls are stuck to my leg.

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if he's a good customer... help him out

if he's not, charge him for the tweeters.

thats what i would do.

+1

If he came to you with a good attitude, and wasn't a dick about, I would go ahead and do it. Or at least at a discounted price.

If he came to you, blaming it on you, demanding help, do it for full price or don't do it all.

On 2/28/2013 at 2:52 PM, Chaise said:

"Now spread your butt cheeks so I can zap your asshole."

2008 Subaru Forester XT

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it was his mistake to change the settings

when the car left you everything was playing fine and not blown correct? its not your fault charge him for new tweeters

thats what i would do

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

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yea if he was a dick about it id say charge him. its like most problems out there. there user error and ppl want shit replaced for free because they dont know how to listen to music lol.

2000 tahoe

orion hcca 15.4

kicker zx2500

2 JL 300/4s

infinity and kicker mids/highs

KHC1400 in back, stock upfront

dont ask about my HU

clarion EQ

kicker/fosgate rcas

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are you a shop or are you installing out of your garage?

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Okay so I installed a system for a guy, sub, amp, mids and highs, mids and highs amp. Anyway on the crossover he went and changed the switch from -2 to +2 and ended up blowing his tweeters without asking me or telling me and now wants them replaced...should I warranty this and replace his tweeters for him, or charge him for new tweeters? I offered to change them out for new tweeters at no charge as long as he bought the tweeters but he didn't seem happy with that solution...what should I do?

From my POV, when you pay someone to install a system the installer should mention what can and can not be done without asking. Like changing gains/amps/wiring/ ie. I was too lazy to do my own install, didn't have the time or tools needed but made sure it was done correctly.

Tone controls and/or equalizers can be tweeter killers if not setup properly, did you test it before? Did you test for badly overdriven & clipped signals coming from the install?

If you told him he needs to contact you before any changes, I would send them back for warranty repair. If you didn't mention to him about changing his setup, then you should just replace them. Tell him after this replacement he is on his own.

Do you have any type of Disclaimer written on the invoice or given verbally? Telling and asking for replacements are two different things.

I would be nice about it and inform the guy that you are a well-trained installer and you prevented things like this from occurring, hence setting the tweets at -2db. You do have to remember that most Mechanical or Electronic Breakdown/Failure occur with new products within a few days up unto 30 days after first use. It could be a bad pair of tweeters, I never had any blown tweets happen to me yet, but I don't clip or under/over power them either.

Edited by xStatezOfMindZx

2 Rockford Fosgate Punch P3 P3D412 in a 4.75 cu. ft sealed box.

Alpine Type-R SPR-17S 2-way component 6.5"

Alpine SPR-57C 5" x 7" 2-Way Coaxial Speaker (Pair)

RF T1000-1bdCP

Alpine MRP-F300

62.5 SQ Ft. Audio Wrap

Stinger SPC122 Capacitor 1 Farad Chrome w/Blue Neon

Limo Tint All Back 5 Windows

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are you a shop or are you installing out of your garage?

Installing outta my garage

and for xStateofMindZx the system has been in his car for a year and a half now and there have been absolutely no problems whatsoever...it was another friend of his that "knows how to make it louder" and flipped the switch to +2db, and cranked his gain on his sub amp. Luckily I fixed that yesterday when he stopped by for his tweeters not working.

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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