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Alright first off.. I was thinking of getting a d5100 for a system that should be around 2500rms, and as a second battery. The amp is a power acoustik gothic series (ovn1-5500d) and will be wired @ 2 ohms = 2500rms with an AA Mayhem 18" d2 (Might upgrade to AQ2200d in the future but need a battery now) The one at the hoods just a basic battery.. but another thing, if I were to buy this battery (assuming its a good choice any opinions?) what do I need to do to it. I heard u gotta charge these types of new batterys first so .. idk how to go about that exactly.. or if I have anything to.

Also, Is this correct for wiring a second battery?

unledcf.png

I know what your all thinking.. im a fucking artist.

I get that alot.

But thanks in advance.

Edited by JMac91

Vehicle: 2002 Volvo S60 2.4t awd.
Headunit: Kenwood DDX-470
Doors: 4x Focal 6.5s/tweets (Adding)
Sub: 2x Sundown Zv4 12's D1
Amps: B2 Zero.1, MB Quart OA600.4
Box: 5.2ish @ 32, Made with Maple, solid oak braces, 45s all around, 2x 5.8" pipes, all fiberglassed up.
Battery: XS D3100, Block Shakers 110AH
Alternator: 250A Excessive Amperage.

All Sky High OFC Wiring.

My Build, plenty of pics: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/198281-2002-volvo-s60-awd-24t-build-log/

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anyone?

And what about my alternator its fine just wired to the 1 battery?

Vehicle: 2002 Volvo S60 2.4t awd.
Headunit: Kenwood DDX-470
Doors: 4x Focal 6.5s/tweets (Adding)
Sub: 2x Sundown Zv4 12's D1
Amps: B2 Zero.1, MB Quart OA600.4
Box: 5.2ish @ 32, Made with Maple, solid oak braces, 45s all around, 2x 5.8" pipes, all fiberglassed up.
Battery: XS D3100, Block Shakers 110AH
Alternator: 250A Excessive Amperage.

All Sky High OFC Wiring.

My Build, plenty of pics: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/198281-2002-volvo-s60-awd-24t-build-log/

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Looks OK. I'd suggest running a ground from the back battery to the front battery so it's connected completely in parallel. + to +, - to -

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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Looks OK. I'd suggest running a ground from the back battery to the front battery so it's connected completely in parallel. + to +, - to -

x2 and if its 12.6 volts or higher you dont need to charge it you can just put it in, and a d5100 is supposed to be good for 2000 watts as primary or 3000 as a secondary battery

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Paint diagram.

Win.

I have nothing to say so i'll just post a reply to raise my post count... <_<

The amp you have won't put out 2500w at 2 ohm...

Audioque will put out more power at 1 ohm.

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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dont forget that other fuse, here is my guide for doing this, follow it

Dereileaks Wiring Guide Link

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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