Team_DC-Derrick Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Ok that reminds me of something else I read, it said if you had 2 batteries then they should be the same for equal charge time. ??? when people say the same, they are talking like, the lead acid, needs to be with another lead acid one, or AGM needs to be with AGM... because they charge differently, and will draw off each other untill they die.. *if i remember right Quote The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube Team DC Audio where theres a will theres a wall....... I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Ok that reminds me of something else I read, it said if you had 2 batteries then they should be the same for equal charge time. ??? when people say the same, they are talking like, the lead acid, needs to be with another lead acid one, or AGM needs to be with AGM... because they charge differently, and will draw off each other untill they die.. *if i remember right You do Most AGM will sit in the high 12's as to where the wet batteries will sit in low to mid 12's so your AGM's will constantly be trying to equalize the voltage. Quote If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Ok that reminds me of something else I read, it said if you had 2 batteries then they should be the same for equal charge time. ??? when people say the same, they are talking like, the lead acid, needs to be with another lead acid one, or AGM needs to be with AGM... because they charge differently, and will draw off each other untill they die.. *if i remember right just when you think you know everything, some genius comes along tryin to tell you otherwise! lol so i'm assuming the stock car battery is AGM? so that would mean if i wanted to run a 2 batt setup with an xs power in the rear i would need to replace the front battery with an xs power too? if so... Damn! imma be one broke ass college student. curse you 12 volt bug! curse you! Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Ok that reminds me of something else I read, it said if you had 2 batteries then they should be the same for equal charge time. ??? when people say the same, they are talking like, the lead acid, needs to be with another lead acid one, or AGM needs to be with AGM... because they charge differently, and will draw off each other untill they die.. *if i remember right just when you think you know everything, some genius comes along tryin to tell you otherwise! lol so i'm assuming the stock car battery is AGM? so that would mean if i wanted to run a 2 batt setup with an xs power in the rear i would need to replace the front battery with an xs power too? if so... Damn! imma be one broke ass college student. curse you 12 volt bug! curse you! no, your stock battery is lead acid. it should be replaced though, like you said. even among batteries of the same type, different brands have different rates of discharge. the one that discharges faster will be stressed more than the other battery. so in theory the better battery can fail before the lesser one. that being said, i have mixed brands and battery types and not had any problems. i spent a good deal of money to make all my batteries the same brand and had no improvement. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJD3 Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) I have a somewhat related question. In my car, I have zero voltage drop. It doesn't matter if I'm full tilt, or radio off, my car is at a solid 12.8 at idle and 13.2 moving. However, I do get light dimming. I'm assuming this is because the battery isn't able to get power out quickly enough. If I only want the single battery up front, what stats should I be looking at to compare batteries? Should I just pick the biggest AGM type that fits by whatever (quality) brand is cheapest? Should I keep what I have since nothing will improve? Or am I the rare exception to the "no caps" rule? EDIT: When I say dimming, this doesn't happen on sustained bass notes. Its more pronounced on bass kicks. Its a spit second of dimming. Edited June 8, 2011 by BJD3 Quote Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 that sounds like what a cap is supposed to fix. what that quick dim is all about is your alt takes a second to sense there is a load and kick itself on. so you are probably just seeing that delay. HOWEVER, 12.8 at idle and 13.2 at 2000rpm is not a good thing. you should be charging at 13.8-15v. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) that sounds like what a cap is supposed to fix. what that quick dim is all about is your alt takes a second to sense there is a load and kick itself on. so you are probably just seeing that delay. HOWEVER, 12.8 at idle and 13.2 at 2000rpm is not a good thing. you should be charging at 13.8-15v. the why the hell is everything automobile related advertised as 12v? lol this is all so confuzzling! yet intriguing at the same time Edited June 8, 2011 by 412 CVX Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team_DC-Derrick Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 that sounds like what a cap is supposed to fix. what that quick dim is all about is your alt takes a second to sense there is a load and kick itself on. so you are probably just seeing that delay. HOWEVER, 12.8 at idle and 13.2 at 2000rpm is not a good thing. you should be charging at 13.8-15v. the why the hell is everything automobile related advertised as 12v? lol this is all so confuzzling! yet intriguing at the same time 12v charges at 14.... 14v charges at 16.. 16v charges at 18.. and so on and so on batts that is Quote The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube Team DC Audio where theres a will theres a wall....... I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 genius! i woulda never guessed Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 that sounds like what a cap is supposed to fix. what that quick dim is all about is your alt takes a second to sense there is a load and kick itself on. so you are probably just seeing that delay. HOWEVER, 12.8 at idle and 13.2 at 2000rpm is not a good thing. you should be charging at 13.8-15v. the why the hell is everything automobile related advertised as 12v? lol this is all so confuzzling! yet intriguing at the same time cause they use a 12v DC battery. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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